2hp Briggs points etc

[TKM51]

I acquired a 2hp lawn edger with a 2hp Briggs - 060102-0429-01 I thought the points were stuck ,no luck it seems the rod which moves the points from the crank is defective . Would anyone know the part number ?
terry

 

[four.cycle]

 

[Wamsutta]

There's a solid metal plug that takes the place of that plunger #342. All you do is tap it in will a small 12 ounce hammer.

Then you install the upgraded magnetron coil and have no more breaker-points to deal with anymore.

The upgraded coil kit comes with the solid metal plug; don't buy the kit unless it has that plug included.

 

[Steve_P]

The rod is a wood dowel on BS made thru the 80s when the "Magnetron" ignition was introduced. Are you sure that's the issue? Unless it's physically broken....

 

[OccupantRJ]

The plunger has a ring indicator on it. If during rotation the ring disappears into the block, it is time to replace the plunger. They were made of a fiber material that would slowly wear away In use. Standard points were 294628, and points including the plunger and flywheel key were 299061.

 

[rmack898]

Don’t forget the points on that Briggs work differently than others. The points remain open for most of the crank’s revolution and only close to fire the coil. The gap is .020”.

 

[TKM51]

Ok I finally sourced the plunger . The old one was frozen In from years of neglect The new plunger is working as intended .Before putting it back I ordered new points etc. The “kit “

 

[Steve_P]

Cool. I changed a bunch of these in the 80s, but it was always because the OD was worn and allowed minor oil leakage- everything still functioned. I don't ever remember changing one that was seized or was too short, but I've forgotten many things over 40 years.

With a new plunger and points, that should last you the rest of your life on something like an edger.

 

[four.cycle]

^ just don't turn it over sideways and you'll be fine. they run forever if you keep oil in them.

 

[TKM51]

It is still a large question mark . I bought a non running as is edger . I brought a 3 hp tiller in the same condition . When I finally assembled the necessary parts and started it . I smoked the garage out . I worked it bit outside , i believe I have a very effective mosquito control .
Yes these wee motors will run for ever if we they receive the proper maintaince
I have received a lot of help. I am truly grateful for the helpful experts on this site
regards- Terry

 

[four.cycle]

^ If the engine hasn't fired in some time, it's going to smoke like hell for a while once you get it started. Should clear up unless the rings are stuck.
I am no expert.
I don't know what I was thinking, but I've dragged two more orphans home the last couple weeks. I need to go out and tear some lawnmowers apart.

 

[TKM51]

I finally have the electrical installed coil & pts .( International shipping is frighteningly slow unless you are a large overseas conglomerate ) When I tried to start the Briggs it will give a short burp and then stop . It wants to go . I believe a carb kit is next on the list . I tried to find a number for a kit etc but can’t . Would anyone have the number for a carb rebuild lit for this machine #60102

 

[four.cycle]

Not sure if this is the right one, but it's as close as I have. Not sure if you will be able to determine a "kit" number from this *.pdf file. (click to download)

I am holding in my hand:
B&S 391681
B&S 35731B
B&S 395508
B&S 691876

It's the diaphragm, high-speed valve, and seals for an older B&S that I never got to.

 

[TKM51]

I took the carb off - the two hp is completely different than the three . This has one plastic tube for gas , no diaphragm or springs .I have it in the cleaner cooking ,the jet is clear I need to source some gaskets etc for this ,I can’t see what else I need

 

[Steve_P]

I am not sure what type of cleaner you are cooking it in, but it may not be acceptable for the plastic inlet tube. We never soaked those, only the float style all metal carbs.

 

[TKM51]

yeah I took the rubber collar off before Emerson . The plastic gas tube was not removable The rest of the carb is metal

 

[TKM51]

Ok - I have new pts ,new coil ,good spark ,new plug and good spark - new air filter etc . I have had it running about 20 seconds . The clutch grabbed the motor stopped . I cleaned the clutch and have it clear and free . I have gas at the spark plug butI can’t get if run ,it burps like it is going to run but no .

 

[Bill Bowman]

Carburtrater.

 

[TKM51]

Bill it’s a vacuum type carb ,there is not a lot going on there other than the jet which is clear .the plastic gas feeder tube which is clear
I have gas at the spark plug . I have compression ,gas & fire . As I say it burps like it going to go but nothing

 

[Bill Bowman]

Have you tried getting it to fire and run on starting fluid?

 

[TKM51]

No ,do you think I should . I don’t even own any

 

[Bill Bowman]

Well, if it will run by spraying starting fluid, then the carburtrator is fubar.

 

[Bill Bowman]

It sounds like you have spark. It may just need a good source of fuel. I wouldn't run it long with starting fluid, but it sure might tell you what's going on.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Dribble a bit of gas into the intake throat to see if it hits. A condiment type squeeze bottle works well for this.

 

[four.cycle]

^ I always use the cap from a can of spray paint. About HALF full of gas. (The old-school SMALL cap- not the newer larger caps.)
Only about a tablespoon.

 

[geneg]

No ,do you think I should . I don’t even own any

Bill it’s a vacuum type carb ,there is not a lot going on there other than the jet which is clear .the plastic gas feeder tube which is clear
I have gas at the spark plug . I have compression ,gas & fire . As I say it burps like it going to go but nothing

Check the key in the flywheel. When the clutch grabbed & it quit running, it may have sheared a little. Just a small amount will affect the spark timing.

 

[TKM51]

Ok . I’ll try in the morning . - first the gas - if the key was partially damaged would I still be getting spark

 

[geneg]

Ok . I’ll try in the morning . - first the gas - if the key was partially damaged would I still be getting spark

Yes, but the spark timing is off.

 

[TKM51]

Yes, but the spark timing is off.

shoot ! - I’ll pull it apart tomorrow

 

[American Locomotive]

It's important to make sure the flywheel nut/recoil ratchet assembly is very tight. If it is not, the flywheel will spin and shear the key.

 

[The Cobbler]

It's key to make sure the flywheel nut/recoil ratchet assembly is very tight. If it is not, the flywheel will spin and shear the key.

the key is also a shear point, if the motor suddenly stops from hitting something, the key shears to protect the rest of the motor.

 

[four.cycle]

^ The shear key on a Briggs engine is a tiny piece of very soft aluminum. The rock you hit with the blade doesn't have to be really big to damage that shear key, and that can toss the machine out of whack (in respect to ignition timing.) You're only working with one cylinder, so it's got to be on the mark. If the key is damaged, distorted - replace it.

 

[TKM51]

OK- I pulled the cover the flywheel seemed tight. I thought i’am in this far so I pulled the flywheel . The shear key was completely sheared in half
Now I have to source an another shear pin . I can’t trust the clutch no matter how well I cleaned it . So another clutch
I never would have thought shear pin ,thanks for the help everyone

 

[four.cycle]

^ You should be able to find that shear key at any lawnmower shop. Some hardware stores stock them. A new key generally comes WITH the point-and-condenser kit - not always - depends upon brand of product.

 

[TKM51]

I sourced a shear pin at my local small motor shop - past the experience told me I needed a part number . I did

 

[American Locomotive]

I want to reiterate that the recoil ratchet assembly needs to be TIGHT or even mild shock loads will shear the key. The torque spec is around 50 ft-lbs, which is pretty difficult to achieve unless you have the proper tool. I'll be honest, I just use a block of wood and a hammer and beat on the recoil ratchet until it doesn't go anymore.

When you say the clutch grabbed, I am assuming you're talking about the recoil clutch or ratchet? Usually when they grab, you need to clean the end of the crankshaft very well, and put a few drops of light oil on the tip of the crank where it fits into the square peg of the ratchet.

 

[four.cycle]

flywheel key: 61760

If that machine has one of those old-school recoil "clutch assembly" things in it with the ball bearings, you do not use grease or oil in that thing - it runs dry.
Remove with wood block and ball-pein hammer. re-install same way. Don't bang on the thing too hard you'll break it.
They say not to disassemble them, but I've always opened them up, washed them out, and re-assembled them. They're a pain in the *** to get back together. NO oil, NO grease inside the thing. ONE tiny drop of oil in that little pinhole in the top of it.

 

[OccupantRJ]

If the engine is a vertical crankshaft, screw the lower casting on, then install the square part. After that, drop in the balls, press on the cover, then tighten the assembly. If a horizontal shaft, lean the engine to do the same thing. That also helps with installing the lower recoil housing bolts so you can see what you are doing. Make sure there is a flywheel screen bolted on, as it retains the ratchet cover in place.

 

[TKM51]

I cleaned the clutch assembly with brake cleaner the first time as it was filthy . But there are wear lines or gouges that the balls have travelled in over time . I filed the major ridges etc and cleaned with brake cleaner again. I was confident I had it back to operational . It was for about twenty seconds I have another on order should be here Approx the 1st Aug
It’s interesting bringing Ebay stuff across the border is a long slow process .Amazon is quick and easy -

 

[OccupantRJ]

I like when the ratchet shrieks like a banshee and runs out about 3 feet of pull rope.