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2nd Coat Advice (ASAP Please)? Sanding?

sshawn09

New member
Joined
Dec 15, 2008
Messages
4
Location
Port St Lucie, FL
All,

I made an error on calculation of sq ft, and my first coat of epoxy-coat.com ran out. So it was very thin in the final area. Point being, I need to do a 2nd coat, and its in the mail.

I've been told I need to rough up the surface a bit with sandpaper. Thats where I need some advice (before this weekend if possible). I did the grip sand, and the paint flakes, so the surface is quite grippy.

I don't know what to expect when sanding epoxy with the grip sand soo...

The Machine:
Floor buffer?
Drum sander?
Handheld orbital? (square or circle)
Handheld belt sander?

The sandpaper:
One of those plastic-like scoring pads?
60 Grit Paper?
80 Grit Paper?
100 Grit Paper?
120 Grit Paper?

Technique:
Dry surface?
Wet surface?

Any tips and thoughts MUCH appreciated!
Thanks,
Shawn
:confused:
 
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'the epoxy floor guy'

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Aug 30, 2008
Messages
162
Location
Iowa
Relax, Take a breath.

If you have a pole sander like what they use to sand drywall works the best. I would suggest about an 80 grit sandpaper. The drywall sanding screen works the best.

You can move fairly quickly apply medium pressure and be sure to cover every bit if possible. Do this RIGHT BEFORE you apply the next coat. After sanding Sweep once then use a damp cloth (towel works good) in front of your broom to pick up the extra dust.

just make sure the towel is damp NOT wet just wet enough to pick up the dust. You may have to open it up and flip it over if it gets full of dust.

Make sure to let it dry a couple minutes (usually not a problem)

:thumbup:
 
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sshawn09

New member
Joined
Dec 15, 2008
Messages
4
Location
Port St Lucie, FL
Much thanks for the tips... do you think this will work okay with the "grip sand" down as well? Theres one area that I know I went waaay too much with... perhaps I should hit that area with a orbital?

Thanks
Shawn:beer:
 

'the epoxy floor guy'

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Aug 30, 2008
Messages
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Location
Iowa
ONLY if the grit is SO thick it 'holds up' your sanding pad.

Remember you don't need to have the whole floor "sanded white"

if the scratches are within 1/8" or so apart you should be ok. BUT you CANNOT sand too much (unless it effects your relationship with Rosey Palm) :lol_hitti

Sorry, I couldn't resist.
 
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sshawn09

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Joined
Dec 15, 2008
Messages
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Location
Port St Lucie, FL
Okay, well I asked Rosey Palm, and she didnt mind.... So I went to town on the sanding today... First I tried the pole sander with a drywall mesh-like pad... and only thing it looked like it did was put a hazing on the grit. Then I took a piece of it and scratched in between some of the grit and seen the shiney epoxy turn to a white dusting... yay... but that was painful to do that 1" spot by hand. So then I released the mini-beast and that would be the dewalt palm orbiter. That made the grit virtually nothing and put very minor scratches in the epoxy, and not many of em either. Seems like the grit is winning.

So then I headed out to home depot to see what other solutions they might have in the rental department and they were closed :( So what now? I'm deathly afraid that the 2nd coat will not adhere to the shiny first without some serious elbow grease. Home depot paint dept thought that a product called "Klean-Strip Sander / Deglosser" might be the solution I need to do. http://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=32&prodid=91

I'm starting to think that the next best solution is a giant floor buffer with a good piece of sandpaper on it or a scoring pad, or a wire brush ( I actually bought a wire brush attachment for the home depot rental a while ago for some basement work, but I fear that totally tearing things apart)

Please help!
Thanks!
Shawn
 
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jkeyser14

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The grit in the floor is aluminum oxide, the same stuff that makes up the grit in the sandpaper that you are using. All I have to say is good luck, that's going to take a lot to work through.
 

'the epoxy floor guy'

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Messages
162
Location
Iowa
The entire surface Does NOT need to be sanded "white".

If you are having a problem with attachment use a Heaver grit sand paper. even down to 35 will NOT be a problem.

The epoxy you are using will easily fill even any LARGE scratches. you just want to provide tiny 'crevices' for the epoxy to bite into. as long as those scratches are 1/8" or so apart (not an exact science)

Here is a Pic of what the scratches should look like.

sandingopen.jpg


This is ALL you need to get proper intercoat adhesion.
 

'the epoxy floor guy'

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We also have a CHEMICAL bond.

This will make the sanding UNNEEDED.

It costs $8 to treat each gallon of product. you only need it in the coat that is applied to the cured floor.

you can Get it HERE
 
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sshawn09

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Dec 15, 2008
Messages
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Location
Port St Lucie, FL
Sorry I feel like its been ages since I replied... But heres the update...

Call me die hard, but I was striving for the perfect floor... so what else to do but buy a floor buffer. I got a good deal on it, and it did what I needed it to do so heres the update...

I obtained a scoring pad (similar to the back of a sponge that you scrape off the crud on the back of the dishes). Tried half the garage with that and it did a great job at scoring up the epoxy, that is where the aluminum oxide wasn't in large amounts.

So I started to get curious, what will it take to sand down the aluminum oxide. I then got a grid-like 100 grit pad for the bottom of the buffer, which did an awesome job until it tore to shreds.

Next I just went back to the scoring pad and finished that on half the floor, and the aluminum oxide was only slightly worn down. Got tired and was trying to beat the freeze, so I put down the 2nd coat of epoxy on half the floor. Results were great... this time I didn't use aluminum oxide and no paint chips as well. I think it looked so much better than the first coat with the aluminum oxide and paint chips. Though, the old aluminum oxide was showing up through the 2nd coat. Not cool but what can ya do, it still looked better.

After some sickness, and a freeze, I moved all the items on the other side of the garage to the side I just finished and now I tried to get more creative. I got a 30 grit sandpaper pad for the buffer and did the other side. I feel it took a good hit on the aluminum oxide on the floor, but surely not enough. Put on the new scoring pad and went over the other half. Mixed up the 2nd batch of epoxy and what do you know, I ran short again. I am not sure if the measuring stick is not accurate or if I overmeasured last time, but instead of breaking up a large area into 2 like the 1st half of the garage, I decided at that point to make a large mix and do it all in one shot. Well, I did run short, but did my best to cover up everything, even if thin. There can be alot of things that would have made me run thin though, perhaps the angle I was looking at the measuring stick wasn't good, or perhaps the stick was uneven, or something else... I really like the results so far of the (www.)epoxy-coat(.com) though. I'd recommend it, even though its more expensive, but do a double coat at first, you will be happier for sure.

So end result... the sandpaper pad might have done a better job but since I ran thinner with the epoxy, I will never know. Seems like there is more aluminum oxide showing through the 2nd coat, but I'm much much much happier with the 2nd coat indeed.

In a few days I'll start to get my benches up and tools unpacked and I'll try to snap some pics.

If anyone needs to rent an old floor buffer from somewhere around Port Saint Lucie, FL, give me a shout.

Shawn
:beer:
 

5Cent

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Sep 11, 2008
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113
Location
North Central, OH
Glad to hear it came out well for you. I too am very pleased with the epoxy-coat kit.

I don't know if I would use the alum. oxide on the next floor I do. I know it will be quite slippery when wet but they are kinda a pain now. They break up that nice shiny, gloss finish it has after cured, and it makes scrubbing and squeeging it a pain in the ****!
 
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