2X questions about timing lights

[1930artdeco]

Hi All,

I bought an old induction Snap-On timing light at a garage sale in the hopes it would work. Well I finally got a chance to try it out and it worked-sort of. I was working and then it quit but I had the induction clamp on the plug lead near the plug itself and not the cap. Are these rebuildable-assuming the light is still good?

My second question is, can I convert a standard timing light to an induction timing light? I am working on a Y block and the dist. is in the back and I have a rational fear of touching the spring that goes into the wire portion of the cap and being in a lot of pain.

Thanks,

Mike

 

[mikedodge]

Yes the induction kind is good and a lot more convenient to use then the older style.
With the one I have it doesn't matter where on the wire it goes. I always put put it near the plug end where it's usually easier to get to and the wires are more spread apart.

I've never heard of anyone converting the other type. It's usually easy enough to find the type you want.

 

[RPH]

Check your induction clamp surfaces. If laminated steel is used, make sure it’s clean from rust and dirt. Check the leads for damage. The clamp is the trigger signal for the strobe.
Good luck.

 

[engineer2]

If I remember right, my old Sun Electric timing light pickup has a label with an arrow that says "towards plug". You might try flippin the pickup over to see if it makes a difference.
Also inspect the metal or ferrite cores in the pickup. If it is cracked it won't work.

 

[Modern Garage]

Another issue I've experienced is the timing light not working on an engine that's idling particularly rich. The problem is the firing voltage is so low that there isn't a strong enough magnetic field around the plug wire. In those cases I have pulled the plug wire back to add a small gap between the wire and the top of the spark plug - just enough to hear the spark snapping. That will force the firing voltage high enough to get the light working, and then I snug the plug wire when done.
Joe

 

[1930artdeco]

The clamp on my gun is just that a copper/steel clamp. One thing I did notice is that when I hooked it up to the batt. I heard some clicking in the gun-not sure if that makes a difference or not. And I noticed that the clamps for the Batt are not labeled for +/- does it matter which way they go on? I will try and post some pics tonight of the gun. But I will start working with what you all have suggested.

 

[1930artdeco]

Here is my timing light and clamp.

 

[Milton Shaw]

The better of those induction timing lights could measure the advance working in the vacuum advance and the centrifugal advance, You would set the initial advance, then bring engine up to speed and you dial back the timing mark to the original set point and then read the total advance on the timing light dial. You could test base, vacuum and centrifugal advance and compare to specs. My first timing light was not an induction timing light it was a very dim neon light that you had to turn shop lights off and get in the shade to see.

 

[428PI]

You haven't lived until you tried to make heads or tales out of timing an old 6.9 or 7.3 diesel with a timing light that goes off of the combustion. I finally just gave up and started timing them by the marks on the injection pump and block. Seems to run just fine. To set it up you were suppose to check the cetane rating on the fuel first with included tester.