Alright, my shop is 44ft wide by 46ft deep. I ordered engineered wood storage trusses built to allow an upstairs room of 16ft wide and 46ft deep. The trusses are on 2ft centers. Event hough the trusses were built to carry the deadload without needing supports. I glued and screwed (2) 3/4inch thick, 24ft long, lvl beams together (8 total used-4 on each side) using 2x4s on top and bottom to create a beam. The lvl beams meet and land on a 6x6 post on each side. The bottom run of lumber that the trusses are build with is 2x10s and they rest on the lvl beams. I added 2x6/2x8 (whatever I had) webbing every 4ft in between the 2ft space between the trusses to add extra contact for the flooring. I glued and screwed 23/32 Advantech T&G 4x8 boards to the top of 2x10 trusses & webbing (staggering the panels). This upstairs first began as a pool table room, kid hang out area. It now likely may become a studio apartment one day. For some reason the floor still seems like it has a tad bit of give. I think it's just because there is an echo and the room is not finished. Does this sound possible? I feel like I should be able to land a Black Hawk up there. Whats your thoughts. Why the slight spongy feeling? Thanks all.
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2x10 storage trusses & Advantech
- Thread starter Dodgeman
- Start date
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
So you took an engineered solution, cobbled on a bunch of additional stuff and aren't getting the desired results?
Farmall450
Well-known member
I would think that would be pretty stout, considering an engineer signed off on the trusses (alone) as a solution.
You have to engineer out deflection from the get go. Deflection and load are two different animals. designs have load w/ deflection tables. It takes very little deflection to feel.
Cross webbing does not do much other than add mass -- thicker flooring does have some effect ...but ..it all goes back to the original floor structure. The 2' was a mistake ....
I hate deflection -- I always tell my architect .. none. Engineered lumber is weird -- given the load tables with typical lumber it flexes more on the low end then out performs above.
Full width/ over size is best
Cross webbing does not do much other than add mass -- thicker flooring does have some effect ...but ..it all goes back to the original floor structure. The 2' was a mistake ....
I hate deflection -- I always tell my architect .. none. Engineered lumber is weird -- given the load tables with typical lumber it flexes more on the low end then out performs above.
Full width/ over size is best
Thanks to those who have given their insight.
Mike93lx, I get it, it was engineered trusses rated for load, your right.
My thoughts were a possible pool table and 15 of my kids friends up there, and something terrible happening. Maybe it would have held up. Hindsight, I should have told the lumber company what the plan was just to make sure the engineer knew, but like I said maybe all would have been well without the lvl and support posts. My worry was not doing enough initially, and too late to do it over. Just didn't want an accident, especially since my kids were gonna be the ones up there.
DaisyWilson, I think I'll hang on to it, but thanks.
Thanks Farmall450 & Yeldogt, yeah I think 16 inch centers would have been better as well. But what's done is done, and trying to go forward. Hope everyone has a great week!
Mike93lx, I get it, it was engineered trusses rated for load, your right.
My thoughts were a possible pool table and 15 of my kids friends up there, and something terrible happening. Maybe it would have held up. Hindsight, I should have told the lumber company what the plan was just to make sure the engineer knew, but like I said maybe all would have been well without the lvl and support posts. My worry was not doing enough initially, and too late to do it over. Just didn't want an accident, especially since my kids were gonna be the ones up there.
DaisyWilson, I think I'll hang on to it, but thanks.
Thanks Farmall450 & Yeldogt, yeah I think 16 inch centers would have been better as well. But what's done is done, and trying to go forward. Hope everyone has a great week!
CombatNinja
Well-known member
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- Aug 24, 2013
- Messages
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I am not surprised in the least that you can feel deflection with 2 x 10 lumber spanning 44 feet. That is a long, long way my man. Likely the only way to really stop that is a beam and post arrangement. I live in a ranch/rambler style home that has a large (13' x 45') bonus room up on the second story that runs the length of pretty much the whole main living area. It was designed to carry a live load and be finished out as living space with engineered attic trusses. They are 2 x 10s every 16" on center that only span 30' and they have load-bearing walls throughout to help ensure no deflection. I think you would have been looking at much more robust construction originally if you had requested it be able to carry a live load. Of course, you would also have seen increased costs associated with that too.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I am not surprised in the least that you can feel deflection with 2 x 10 lumber spanning 44 feet. That is a long, long way my man. Likely the only way to really stop that is a beam and post arrangement. I live in a ranch/rambler style home that has a large (13' x 45') bonus room up on the second story that runs the length of pretty much the whole main living area. It was designed to carry a live load and be finished out as living space with engineered attic trusses. They are 2 x 10s every 16" on center that only span 30' and they have load-bearing walls throughout to help ensure no deflection. I think you would have been looking at much more robust construction originally if you had requested it be able to carry a live load. Of course, you would also have seen increased costs associated with that too.
A 2x10 as part of a truss system is completely different than floor joists.
If you could even get a 44' 2x10,it would be like a wet noodle.
CombatNinja
Well-known member
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- Aug 24, 2013
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A 2x10 as part of a truss system is completely different than floor joists.
If you could even get a 44' 2x10,it would be like a wet noodle.
That's what I am saying, my 2 x 10s are part of a truss system but they are also effectively the 'floor joists'. That is how they build a lot of homes in the south. They are lifted onsite with a crane and put into place. If the space is to carry a live load, it is usually 2 x 10 on the bottom and 2 x 8 everywhere else to get enough rafter depth for insulation (though due to code changes, 2 x 10 is also common on newer builds to accommodate increased insulation requirements).
I assumed the OP had 2 x 10s spanning the 44', I assumed sistered together? Maybe I am not picturing his setup correctly.
CombatNinja, yes the 2x10 are the base lumber of the engineered trusses spanning the length of the shop. The way the support posts and lvl are positioned, the 44ft length truss is supported every 14ft. Beginning with the 2x6 stud wall where truss sits, 14ft span till it lands on the first lvl (with 6x6 support post), 14ft span till the next lvl (with 6x6 support post), then 14ft till it sits on the other stud wall. Maybe this explains it better, maybe not.
Pics would greatly help out. I can upload but they won't post on here or in my album. I'm still learning.
I just spoke to the lumber company and he confirmed the trusses were built for a live load of a possible pool table and many active kids in mind lol. After reading about dead load and live load, I began to wonder about the initial order details I gave them. He feels it also would have been structurally sound without any support posts or lvls due to being an engineered truss. He felt the posts and lvls were overkill, but especially due to the posts and lvl I should have zero deflection. He ask if something was an issue, and I explained the slight sponginess. He said the same things as Yeldogt, the 24 inch distance between the trusses is where that ever-so-slight give is coming from. Going 16 inches would have been little better since the 2x10 is doubling as ceiling joist for lower floor and floor joists for upper room. He suggested going with a good quality vinyl plank flooring to add strength.
Pics would greatly help out. I can upload but they won't post on here or in my album. I'm still learning.
I just spoke to the lumber company and he confirmed the trusses were built for a live load of a possible pool table and many active kids in mind lol. After reading about dead load and live load, I began to wonder about the initial order details I gave them. He feels it also would have been structurally sound without any support posts or lvls due to being an engineered truss. He felt the posts and lvls were overkill, but especially due to the posts and lvl I should have zero deflection. He ask if something was an issue, and I explained the slight sponginess. He said the same things as Yeldogt, the 24 inch distance between the trusses is where that ever-so-slight give is coming from. Going 16 inches would have been little better since the 2x10 is doubling as ceiling joist for lower floor and floor joists for upper room. He suggested going with a good quality vinyl plank flooring to add strength.
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