2x4 or 2x6

[idmclean13]

Ok Iam new to this form so take it easy on me. Someone from my Mustang forum sent me here. I plan on building a garage this summer. it will be 24x 36 plus or minus. Part of it will have work shop with storage over it. The walls will be 10' on top of a 8" cement base abovr the floor. I dont lik eth wood sitting on the floor What is the difference between using 2x4's and 2x6's besides the size?

Do people build with 2x4 walls any more

 

[trbomax]

My thoughts are that with storage over and being 10'-0 high,your walls will have to be 16"oc. Are you going to heat it? If so then 2x6 walls will allow better insulation,if not, then 2x4 is OK.

 

[czeto]

I'm building a 34x26 with 2x6s 12 ft. high. Big difference is cost but using 2x4s on 16" centers and 2x6s on 24" centers is not that much different. I'm going with 16".

 

[osu69]

My garage is 28' X 45' and 12'3" clear inside. It has 2X4 walls 16" on center with two purlines per stud cavity. Unless you are planning to heat it constantly, I don't think you'd get a payback on R19 vs R13 insulation.

Someday you may want to put a two post lift in the garage-you need a little over 12' clear to do it.

 

[idmclean13]

I plan on have scisor rafters over the garage part to fit my lift in it. As for heating I plan on heating it only when I go out there to work on my Mustang.Even then I have a drop down wall to heat just that area.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Structurally, I think 2x4s will be fine unless you're going to store your collection of lead ingots in the attic.

I think some parts of the country require new houses to be built with 2x6s for the added insulation space, but that won't apply to a garage.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I'd go with the 2x6 walls and thicker insulation. While you may not be in there much now, a few years from now it may change.

 

[Berserker]

I too would go with 2x6s for more insulation. They used build houses out of 2x4s, mine is, but 2x6s will give you the option of better insulation. You may not do it now, but you may someday.

 

[gussteve]

i built mine with 2x4s and it gets cold here in the winter.i insulated it myself and made sure no air is getting throw and im happy with it.

 

[ibedayank]

It is more effective to heat from the bottom up than from the top down. In floor heating is much more effective than forced air. you may want to check into have blown in foam insolation done rather than fiberglass.

 

[kmacht]

Something to think about. Most stock size doors and windows are made for 2x4 framed walls. It may cost more or you may have to do some special trim boards on the doors and windows if you go 2x6 and plan on finishing the inside. Same goes for the garage door.

Keith

 

[PassnThru]

As many have alluded to, it's about insulation - not about the strength of the wall. And besides the cost of 2X6 over 2X4, you have to figure in the cost of the doors and windows designed for thicker walls. And, last time I checked, R19 is more expensive than R13. So - a larger up front cost that will only be recouped based on your heating and cooling requirements. If the garage will only be heated occasionally and never cooled - very long pay off. If you want to keep the garage at 70 degrees all winter then a shorter pay off.
Remember that the walls are not the source of your greatest heat loss. It makes more sense in homes where you condition the space year round.

 

[Motofixxer]

For an occasional use type garage, 2x4 should be fine unless your planning tall walls You start getting up in the 10+ foot walls 2x6 will be much stronger. If you just use 2x4 walls and insulate you will not have much trouble maintaining a very comfortable temperature.

 

[holdover]

I did my 40 X 60 with 6" walls and R19, it is not only warm in the winter when heated, but cool in the summer when the sun is shining bright, you have almost twice the insulation R13 VS R19.. As to the availability of doors and windows for 6" walls, like someone said in a previous post,"does anyone build with 2 X 4?" In many areas 2X6 exterior walls are std.

 

[nate379]

Ok maybe it's just here but it's R15 for 2x4 walls and R21 for 2x6. 2x6 wall, R21 in min code, but that is for a house, not a garage.

10ft tall wall could only benefit from a 2x6. 16 O.C. for sure... but isn't that standard anyhow?

 

[srmofo]

In the grand scheme of things, your lumber cost will only make up a small portion. And the 2x? lumber for the walls is going to be even less. I bet its less than 10%. Buy what you want, at the end of the day youll be happy.

BTW Ive got a 24x36x10 with Spread web trusses for light storage. Code around here is 16"oc regardless. Trusses are 24"oc with 2x6 bottom chord, although I wish I had gone to 2x8.

VVVVV Check my link VVVVV

 

[Traditional hotrodder]

I recently built a 36 x 36 garage with 10" ceilings and used 2x4's on 16" centers. The cost for the upgrade to a 2x6 over a 2x4 was minimal, like around $600. After much reasoning I stuck with the 2x4's seeing that the heat loss was very marginal, no attic storage (scissor trusses), simpler to trim out window/door openings. I'm pleased with the decision. I beleive it's more of a "when does one stop making all the little upgrades"? They add up quickly so the budget is thrown off , then you get discouraged etc.

 

[70chevellegsp]

For strength and rigidity, 2x6 with 7/16 OSB sheeting (make sure you use 5/8 on the roof to eliminate sags).

 

[Gary S]

I live in one of the coldest parts of the US, and for a house, 2x6 walls have become pretty much standard. For a detatched garage or other outbuilding, 2x6 still doesn't make much sense unless you need the additional structural strength. A 2x4 wall takes R13 fiberglass blankets, and you can add another R6 for the outside sheathing. That gives you a low priced R20 wall. A 2x6 built the same would be R26. When you are heating a building, you will never see any energy savings return between the two. A R20 wall coupled with a R50 ceiling holds all the heat you can economically contain. Your heat loss in a building like this is your doors and windows. You can't find R20 doors or windows. The windows if you choose double thermopane will be around R3. If you choose triple thermopane will be around R5. The doors will be significantly better than the windows, but nowhere near a good 2x4 wall.
And, all your air leaks will be at the doors and windows.
Simply said, UNLESS YOU NEED THE ADDITIONAL STRUTURAL STRENGTH, spending additional money on a 2x6 wall is money you will never see a return from in heating and cooling.

 

[idmclean13]

thanks for all the advise. I belive I will be going with 2x4s. I think the money I save could be put other uses. Most of the time it willbe storing my mustang. Also if I have blowen in insulation the r factor wont be to far off. Also with open ceiling not going to be much insulation in it. I think I would rather do more insulating in the shop area so I can work in there.

 

[neverenoughtools]

I'd go with the 2x6 walls and thicker insulation. While you may not be in there much now, a few years from now it may change.

X2

 

[east_tn_emc]

I built a 30x42 shop about 2 years ago (okay..still working on the interior)....

I priced out the 2x4 and the 2x6 studs for the walls....it cost me a whopping $200 more to frame everything with 2x6 instead of 2x4. It wasnt enough difference to worry about so I went with the 2x6.

 

[ddawg16]

All good points about 2x4 vs 2x6.....except for the framing issues with windows and doors.....not an issue....in fact, it's easier with 2x6.....wondows give you a larger window sile...and the doors are set in further....the framing is easy....

But the best advantage to using 2x6? Straighter walls. Even if you use good grade 1 lumber.....2x4, especially 10' and higher is going to give you wavey walls......the #1 rule in home construction is "No wall is straight". I was very pleased at how much straighter my walls were....and I used grade 2 lumber from HD (never again).

Second....the thicker walls mean you have more room to run romex.....with 2x4, you have to use nail blocks anywhere the romex passes behind....that adds money....and it really pisses you off when you go to drive a nail or screw and hit the nail block. With 2x6, you put your romex in the middle and don't have to worry about nails and screws. Punch your romex just once you have pretty much tossed any savings.

Do NOT go 24" OC. If you get off just 1/2" on spacing, your going to have issues with shear walls and dry wall. Additionally, it really limits you on attachement points for cabinets and shelves.....what are you going to do if you have something less than 24" wide? Just one screw?

The framing part is the backbone of your garage....don't skimp on it. It's like concrete.....you pour 4" and then realize you need another 2" for the extra loads.....it's not like you can go back and just add 2".....you have to start over.

If $200 is a deal breaker for you......then you most likely can't afford the garage in the first place.....that is less than 1% of the total cost.....what ever cost you have estimated now....increase it by at least 30%...and that is if your lucky.

 

[autoclassicnut]

In my case after working for the local sawmill for 19+ years, "I know people' and got the employee discount, so it was a no-brainer that i would use 2 x 6 's ... Keeps my shop cool all summer, ( cooler than our house).

 

[mmb617]

When I built my 24x52 garage I never even considered 2x4 walls, I just automatically went with 2x6. But them I like to overbuild things. I don't know anybody who's been sorry they over built, but lots of folks are sorry later that they skimped when building.

 

[38Chevy454]

I live where it gets cold, so i went with 2x6 and R-19 walls. On 16 inch centers, 12 ft high. With R-38 in ceiling, it stayed above freezing even with below zero and no heating for one week or more. Should be nice in summer as well holding the heat out.

In my opinion, paying up front for extra insulation is a good investment for future payback. The small increase in cost is a lot less than any retrofit cost. Do it right the first time. Heating costs are not going to get any cheaper in the future.

 

[ishiboo]

For an occasional use type garage, 2x4 should be fine unless your planning tall walls You start getting up in the 10+ foot walls 2x6 will be much stronger. If you just use 2x4 walls and insulate you will not have much trouble maintaining a very comfortable temperature.

Agreed. While 2x4's have plenty of vertical load capacity, they have little strength in the "depth" dimension and you get a lot of flex with the taller walls. With a 10', I would go 2x6.

As many have alluded to, it's about insulation - not about the strength of the wall. And besides the cost of 2X6 over 2X4, you have to figure in the cost of the doors and windows designed for thicker walls. And, last time I checked, R19 is more expensive than R13. So - a larger up front cost that will only be recouped based on your heating and cooling requirements. If the garage will only be heated occasionally and never cooled - very long pay off. If you want to keep the garage at 70 degrees all winter then a shorter pay off.
Remember that the walls are not the source of your greatest heat loss. It makes more sense in homes where you condition the space year round.

More or less you're right, but in colder areas R19 is becoming more standard. The framing lumber and fiberglass insulation are a very little cost, and on a new build you can likely easily recoup them on heating/cooling.

 

[tyjoja]

same board feet either way equals about the same cost. More isulation possibilities with 2x6. Less physical boards= less labor and clips and nails. only 1 way to go.

 

[dirttracker18]

30 X 36 X 12 here and 2 X 6 @ 16" oc.

For the height you are going and the minimal extra cost I would say 2 X 6. I would also not go 24" oc with that height. I would not use 24" oc anywhere but that is me.

Think about it this way, if you are going to build a shop of this size then do not skimp on the framing. Build it strong, build it right the first time. If you are looking for cost savings, find them somewhere that you can upgrade later.

Good luck on the build!