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2x4 vs 2x6?

4wd4ever

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Jul 25, 2011
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New Westminster BC
Does anyone know what the BC building code says about using 2x4 studs for 11 foot walls? I did a search and all I could come up with is, it's ok if you double them up. Why would I double them up when I could just use 2x6s instead?:confused:

Anyway, thanx in advance!
Rick
 
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Gary S

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I have no idea what your local building codes might be. They are different everywhere. If you want correct information, call your building authority and ask them.
My garage is built with 2x4 construction with 10' walls and easily meets code here. Your code isn't likely the same.
 

Zeke

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2 x 4's in compression are rated to go almost as high as you want but wood framing is limited to 3 stories here. The spacing has to do with it, too. Solid blocking at 8' or in between. If you block it tight, it won't be as flexible. If you run solid sheathing, it will be a tank.
 

K'ledgeBldr

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Johns Creek, GA
Your construction will follow the IRC (International Residential Code)-
Almost every convening authority follows these guidelines with or without amendments due to geographic locations and/or political bureaucracy.
Here is the chart for wood framed wall height criteria-
 

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ishiboo

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Oshkosh, WI
Does anyone know what the BC building code says about using 2x4 studs for 11 foot walls? I did a search and all I could come up with is, it's ok if you double them up. Why would I double them up when I could just use 2x6s instead?:confused:

Anyway, thanx in advance!
Rick

2x6 will produce a straighter, stiffer wall which will take a full R-10 higher insulation value (with conventional insulation) than a 2x4 wall. In addition, the double 2x4s would transmit a lot more heat.

2x6 is the way to go.
 

grits

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2x6 will produce a straighter, stiffer wall which will take a full R-10 higher insulation value (with conventional insulation) than a 2x4 wall. In addition, the double 2x4s would transmit a lot more heat.

2x6 is the way to go.

Actually, you can put R19 in a 2x6 wall, I would frame it with the 2x6.
 

ForceFed70

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BC, Canada
As far and I know, you can go up to 12' with a 2x4 wall.

Having said that, I would go with 2x6. On a simple garage you are talking maybe $150 more in lumber and you can use much more insulation, etc.

I would go 2x6 24" OC instead of 2x4 16" OC if that's what you were planning.
 

dirttracker18

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Slate River, ON
Yup, extra cost for 2 X 6 is relatively low and allows for more R value when insulating. Not to mention a little more strength.

Just go with the 2 X 6's, and enjoy the new garage :)
 

7echo

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coastal Georgia
One thing to consider is the 2 x 6 wall will require windows that are made for 2 x 6s, or you will have to add jamb extensions, or do some sort of drywall return. Probably cost you a little more time and/or money, but maybe not a big deal. In your area I would consider spray foam, I imagine it gets a little cold there.
 
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4wd4ever

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New Westminster BC
It's a 16x24 detached and space is always a concern. If I use 2x6 I'll loose another 2" all the way around which could be useful space...I was looking for what was up to code and couldn't find a straight answer.
Thank you all for the input and I'll be keeping y'all updated as I go. I'm not a carpenter by any means but know how to swing a hammer (or nail gun) and can read blue prints.I'll be learning as I go so I'll be asking a lot of dumb questions....like I already have...lol
 
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DoyleDee

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North Texas
You won't lose 4"... You will lose 3" though.
And all together have a stronger building that you can insulate better.
Worst case scenario you can build "shelves" inside the lumber, that is if you don't cover it.
 
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tcianci

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Walpole, Ma
Do the 2x4 on 16" centers, screw the insulation. Unless you heat the building 24/7 you will probably never save on fuel what you will spend on the incremental increases in the lumber, insulation and extended jambs. Everyone gets a raging hard-on over mega insulating the **** out of everything without regard to what it's going to end up costing them, or maybe put differently...what it's not going to save them. Think of your project as a big pie... the pie is the cost of the buiding and what it costs you annualy to do the stuff you want in the building. You can decide how you want to slice up the pie i.e. heavily loaded up front with an expensive construction cost and a lower annual cost or saving the money up front and spend it incrementally in your annnual costs. Throw in a dose of reality along the lines of "What if I don't end up staying here for a long time?"...What if my interests change and I don't use the place at all?" What if I decide to sell it and no one gives a rats *** about how wonderful my garage is and I never get back what I put into it?"

Out of any of the things you could do to build an energey efficient (but not necessarilly cost efficient) building, the wall insulation is actually the smallest part of the equation compared to good ceiling insulation and infiltration management. The other thing you gotta remember is once you open the garage door, It doesn't make any difference if you're in a R90 thermal vault or a freakin blue tarp shelter... you have pissed all your heat outside anyway.
 

mrobins297aaa

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south east michigan
2 x 4's in compression are rated to go almost as high as you want but wood framing is limited to 3 stories here. The spacing has to do with it, too. Solid blocking at 8' or in between. If you block it tight, it won't be as flexible. If you run solid sheathing, it will be a tank.

Milt that is what the inspector around here told me when I asked if I could use 2x4 with a 12' wall, it has to blocked at 8'.
 

Zengineer

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British Columbia, Canada
As a guy living in your area, with a 16x24 garage... put batt insulation in it for the $300 it will cost you. Incredible difference.

If you really need an answer, call and ask your building inspector.
 

ddawg16

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S. California
2x6 will produce a straighter, stiffer wall which will take a full R-10 higher insulation value (with conventional insulation) than a 2x4 wall. In addition, the double 2x4s would transmit a lot more heat.

2x6 is the way to go.

Yup, extra cost for 2 X 6 is relatively low and allows for more R value when insulating. Not to mention a little more strength.

Just go with the 2 X 6's, and enjoy the new garage :)

I did my garage with 2x6's.....it's really nice to be able to build something to hang on the wall and you know that the wall is straight.....

One thing to consider is the 2 x 6 wall will require windows that are made for 2 x 6s, or you will have to add jamb extensions, or do some sort of drywall return. Probably cost you a little more time and/or money, but maybe not a big deal. In your area I would consider spray foam, I imagine it gets a little cold there.

Huh? Maybe your using a different window than I do....I use one that has no jamb....just a j-channel around the outside....finish it off with vinyl or stucco.....inside? Finish it anyway you want. I like the fact that I have a nice deep window sill to set my beer or coffee on.

As a guy living in your area, with a 16x24 garage... put batt insulation in it for the $300 it will cost you. Incredible difference.

If you really need an answer, call and ask your building inspector.

In your cold climate....you will be glad for the temp difference the extra insulation will give you.
 
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4wd4ever

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New Westminster BC
COLD?? It's not that cold here...I wear shorts 9-10 months of the year minimum...my friends and family are usually shocked when they see me in pants...lol

But seriously, thank you all! I'm going to start with a call to the inspector today, then go from there.

Rick
 

bradweingartner

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Sep 30, 2009
Messages
149
Are you using a block base for the wall? If so that's something to consider because the 8" of depth the block has is going to eat up that space you thought you were saving by going with 2x4. I personally hate that any free-standing shelf in my garage has a few inch gap behind it for stuff to fall down!
 

camarotoolman

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Mar 12, 2011
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cocoa Fl.
I would use metal studs, a hell of alot straights in 2x4 or 2x6s. Easy to work with too. Made from recycled material and not trees.
 

Zeke

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Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
Well, you'd have to use heavy gauge red studs. Not very economical. Tin cans studs won't support anything. I've framed with red studs once in a Type I structure (IIRC my codes) where combustible materials were not allowed. Labor intensive and expensive.
 

NUTTSGT

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Northern Central Ohio
Do the 2x4 on 16" centers, screw the insulation. Unless you heat the building 24/7 you will probably never save on fuel what you will spend on the incremental increases in the lumber, insulation and extended jambs. Everyone gets a raging hard-on over mega insulating the **** out of everything without regard to what it's going to end up costing them, or maybe put differently...what it's not going to save them. Think of your project as a big pie... the pie is the cost of the buiding and what it costs you annualy to do the stuff you want in the building. You can decide how you want to slice up the pie i.e. heavily loaded up front with an expensive construction cost and a lower annual cost or saving the money up front and spend it incrementally in your annnual costs. Throw in a dose of reality along the lines of "What if I don't end up staying here for a long time?"...What if my interests change and I don't use the place at all?" What if I decide to sell it and no one gives a rats *** about how wonderful my garage is and I never get back what I put into it?"

Out of any of the things you could do to build an energey efficient (but not necessarilly cost efficient) building, the wall insulation is actually the smallest part of the equation compared to good ceiling insulation and infiltration management. The other thing you gotta remember is once you open the garage door, It doesn't make any difference if you're in a R90 thermal vault or a freakin blue tarp shelter... you have pissed all your heat outside anyway.

I'd rather spend the money and not need the insulation rather than wish I had the deeper walls and more insulation later. The more insulation, the easier it'll help retain the heat, heat that soak into the concrete. Heated concrete that will help recover the inside air once you open and close the garage door.

IMHO, insulation is an investment.
 

go_n_low88

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Mar 15, 2010
Messages
85
Recently finishing the framing on my garage we had to go with 2 X 6 walls as per code for Alberta, I have a 12 ft ceiling and truss span is 25ft.
 
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