I was wondering what the strongest one I could get was? I was left an old 3/4" air gun that only gives out 900 ft lbs by my grandfather when he passed along with a set of the sockets, and another deep set I picked up cheap. I already have the M18 1/2" impact from Milwaukee with 1400 breakaway torque, so it would ideally be higher than that. I saw the AirCat is 1600 ft lbs, but wondering if that's the ceiling, because that doesn't seem worth getting in difference from the Milwaukee 1/2". Thank you in advance
3/4" drive impact gun
- Thread starter Zevadyah
- Start date
The ratings don't have a standard so they are all over the place. One of the threads on here is about a new YouTube channel doing head to head ratings so you can actually compare.
Here is one guy doing head to head tests. He does other sizes and there is a new Youtube channel doing it also. You will have to see if you can find one of them doing 3/4.
Here is the one I saw in a thread here. I don't know if he's done any 3/4 tests yet but you can see what the guns do compared to their ratings.
Here is one guy doing head to head tests. He does other sizes and there is a new Youtube channel doing it also. You will have to see if you can find one of them doing 3/4.
Here is the one I saw in a thread here. I don't know if he's done any 3/4 tests yet but you can see what the guns do compared to their ratings.
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I guess one more general question I have since I haven't used air tools much is about what output compressor and what size tank would be ideal for working with air guns on weekends and after work hours? I know it's a vague question, I just don't quite know where to start
nadogail
Well-known member
IMHO, large air tools have big appetites, they are not happy being fed through inexpensive 3/8" hose and big box store compressers.
jeepinerdeep
Well-known member
Quoted for truth. A 3/4 gun is pretty ambitious. My 60 gallon/5HP IR chokes on my SO 1/2 gun, SO 1/2 air drill and 4.5" grinder.
Docbentley
Well-known member
What projects do you work on that would regularly require a high torque 3/4 drive air gun?
I know, this is garage journal and bigger is better.
I know, this is garage journal and bigger is better.
I would say 7 1/2 HP , 80 gallon, 2 stage compressor with 1/2" air lines minimum. When you move up to a 3/4" gun, everything has to be bigger. With that said, I am sure a good 3/4" gun / setup will beat any 1/2" cordless.. I had a big nut on my floor jack pump, my IR 1/2 gun did nothing, my 3/4" IR took it off in a second. My friend asked why I am giving up so fast... I was already done.
rjacobs
Well-known member
In a thread a few weeks ago people were saying how much better air was than the newer battery operated stuff until I pointed out that you need a MONSTER compressor to hit the peak output numbers of the big air guns... Like 25+ CFM... which I think was like a 10hp minimum compressor....which is crazy overkill for most home shops...
Wrench97
Well-known member
A lot of 3/4" guns still use the standard 1/4" fitting, so 3/8" hose is fine, I do have a older IR 3/4" with a 3/8" fitting even used with a 1/2" line it's weaker then the CP I usually grab with a 1/4" fitting on 3/8" hose.
The 3/4" CP will definitely out perform my HT Milwaukee 1/2".
A 1" gun will take 1/2" hose and 1/2" fittings and a lot of CFM without doubt
The 3/4" CP will definitely out perform my HT Milwaukee 1/2".
A 1" gun will take 1/2" hose and 1/2" fittings and a lot of CFM without doubt
FSrepair&fabrication
Well-known member
I use 3/4 guns daily. They can run with a 3/8 hose but they’re not running at full potential. I use 1/2 hose with the 1/2 npt quick couplers. The cornwell has a 3/8npt inlet, the IR is 1/2”. The IR 2161 is my favorite more power than you need 90% of the time, for the 10% it can’t do I have an IR 2925 which is a monster but cost $2000.
The 2161 is my favorite for wheels and stuff, but it’s thirsty for air. A 60 gallon compressor has barely enough volume to do one wheel (10 33mm lug nuts) on a truck before you need to let it charge up. If you’re not doing wheels just a quick burst here and there for a stuck bolt you’ll probably be fine.
The 2161 is my favorite for wheels and stuff, but it’s thirsty for air. A 60 gallon compressor has barely enough volume to do one wheel (10 33mm lug nuts) on a truck before you need to let it charge up. If you’re not doing wheels just a quick burst here and there for a stuck bolt you’ll probably be fine.
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I'm getting certified as a heavy machinery diesel mechanic, so I figure it might be helpful depending on what exactly I end up working on
CraigStu
Well-known member
I think some of the concern about compressor size may be a bit much. I do like the idea of larger pipe/hoses though. My thinking is, unless you will be running that 3/4 gun for > 30 seconds at a time, a compressor that will get your tank up to 150# will be fine. Usually the 3/4 comes out for one bolt or nut and it's off in 10 seconds. This is a way different use than something like a die grinder or air sander.
FSrepair&fabrication
Well-known member
Any heavy duty shop you work at will have a 1/2 air line with the big fittings for 3/4 and 1” guns. All you’ll need to do is run a whip hose on your gun to match. I usually make mine out of 1/2 air brake hose since we always have some around. A whip hose is nice because it keeps the big fitting away from the handle so you gain a bit of clearance in tight spaces.
The IR 2161 is a great all around gun with tons of power. Mine has the 3” extended anvil for doing wheels but if you’re working on equipment a short anvil would probably be more versatile. It also has a steel nose cone, compared to a lot of the composite guns that are aluminum or titanium. This matters because when you’re up against obstructions the nose really gets chewed as it vibrates against things. Just look at my cornwell gun in my previous post.
Bigblockyeti
Banned
Real world number, the cordless stuff doesn't have the power as air with the correct flow. It's unsubstantiated marketing.
Rebuild the air gun and give it to a grand kids 40+ years after the Milwaukee has been trashed.
Ton ton
Well-known member
Milwaukee does have a 3/4" hoseless impact. No experience yet with it.
bobcatdan
Well-known member
3/4" impacts hit a lot harder than a 1/2". Just because their rated output is close, a good working 3/4" will smoke a 1/2". In my home shop I don't use my 3/4" for much other than one or two bolts at a time. For as much I use air at home these days, I get along pretty good with a little old 20 gallon compressor since the motivation to upgrade just isn't there. For what I do, it runs my 3/4" fine. Yes it would take forever waiting for the compressor to keep up if I was trying to take a dump truck wheel off.
bsaint
Well-known member
Its because their hammer mechanisms are larger.
speed bump
Well-known member
We have pretty much all of the 3/8"+ Milwaukee Fuel Impacts at work (except the newest 1" $1000 one) and according to our mechanics if the 1/2" gun doesn't do it none of the other ones will and its time to break out an air gun or a ratchet.
As far as 3/4" air guns we buy IR 2145 guns for the couple we have and they seem to do well. Generally we skip right to 1" guns though.
bobcatdan
Well-known member
Exactly.
Downwindtracker 2
Well-known member
I have Chicago Pneumatic 3/4" and one of those Ingersoll Rand titanium 1/2" . I would say the IR 1/2" has more snap. Both low mileage BTW.
vssjim
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I would make sure it has a air line feed of 1/2 hose before I replaced the impact you have, when you feed it right you may be surprised at how it works. Plumb it right then move on if unhappy.
Daveyclimber
Well-known member
I have a large 1/2" milwaukee and the 3/4" milwaukee they are comparable in my opinion. I run them with 9.0 batteries. I recently purchased the small pistol grip 1" milwaukee for what the 3/4" couldnt do and now I can tackle 90% of anything I will ever need to work on which is small to moderate sized forestry equipment.
jsaw
Well-known member
My experience also
You do not need a large compressor for impacts. They don't require a constant output that the pump needs to keep up with and will work perfectly fine off the charge in the tank making the recharge cfm a non factor. 40-60 gal filled to capacity is absolutely fine until you step into 1.5" drive stuff and beyond.
Related: A $1000 cordless 1" has an output roughly similar to a high quality 3/4" pneumatic. So in terms of size and power air kicks batteries *** still. Milwaukee's newest models are crazy large and heavy for their torque ratings.
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Wrench97
Well-known member
Having done both, battery powered in the field is a time and aggravation saver, however in the shop where air is readily available it's a mix I find myself using the compact M12 line inside the vehicle more and more and the 3/8" impact under hood but for underneath it's hard to beat air for power/speed/size, ease of use, ease to clean, weight.
At home I find myself grabbing battery instead of turning the compressor on unless I plan on doing something involved or need the extra power.
Battery has come a long way but there is still a place for both.
At home I find myself grabbing battery instead of turning the compressor on unless I plan on doing something involved or need the extra power.
Battery has come a long way but there is still a place for both.
We have the 3/4" Milwaukee 2864-20 for work and recently did some valve inspections/replacements on 30" lines at one of our plants. I was surprised how well the gun did, I think we did 5 valves total, I believe that's 28 studs each. So it broke and retightened 140 something 1-1/4"-7 nuts plus probably another 50 1"ers and still had about half a battery charge. Plus it was nice not having to drag a 1/2" air hose while climbing all over process piping.
I picked one up myself and it's the best money I ever spent on a tool. Tightened a 16" 600# flange (1 1/2" studs) to over 1000 ft/lbs, didn't have to touch a wrench. Since I usually have no access to air, it's been a game changer.
vanapplebomb
Well-known member
All the air powered 3/4 drive tools I have seen have a heavier and slower running impact mechanism than their similarly rated 1/2 counterparts. So, while over 5-10 seconds both the 1/2 and 3/4 build up to the same bolt tension, the 3/4 hits much harder. That heavier hit can really get things moving with a stuck fastener while the 1/2 will hammer away with no progress because it can’t hit hard enough to break it away. Most cordless 3/4 drive tools I have seen share common parts with the high torque 1/2 gun, but use a 3/4 anvil. They can build up the the same bolt tension after 5 or 10 seconds, but they just lack the hitting power to really free up stuck fasteners. If the 3/4 Milwaukee won’t budge it, my 3/4 air rated at 800FtLbs (significantly less than the Milwaukee) will have it unstuck in no time. Not saying one is better than the other, but they do behave differently.
On the compressor front, it all depends how you are using it. You don’t need a big compressor to run a 3/4 drive impact if you don’t plan to take a bunch of nuts off all in one go. If it is a nut or two here and there, a small compressor works just fine. If you are doing a bunch of nuts and don’t want to stop after three or four nuts, then a larger compressor is required.
The trick with a small compressor is getting the air in the tank to the tool. You can NOT run the air line from a built in regulator. Those regulators that come on smaller compressors work fine for feeding nail guns or other tools that don’t require much air flow. They are embarrassingly cheap, and will NOT flow the amount of air required by your gun. You need to tap in directly to the tank. Trust me, a tap on an 11 gallon tank at 120 psi will give you all the power your gun can offer (~90 psi working pressure), but feeding it from the built in regulator set to 120 psi won’t work worth beans because it is so restrictive you won’t get anywhere close to 90 psi working pressure. 3/8 fittings or 1/4 high flow couplers are also helpful with small compressors which are typically limited in pressure. Use a short (25 foot) 3/8 hose with good air fittings and it will work just fine. While I was waiting for my new 80 galling compressor to arrive I had to make due with my 11 gallon portable compressor. At 120 psi with the hose tapped directly into the tank, I could easy remove two 36mm axle nuts with my 3/4 before it would kick on.
On the compressor front, it all depends how you are using it. You don’t need a big compressor to run a 3/4 drive impact if you don’t plan to take a bunch of nuts off all in one go. If it is a nut or two here and there, a small compressor works just fine. If you are doing a bunch of nuts and don’t want to stop after three or four nuts, then a larger compressor is required.
The trick with a small compressor is getting the air in the tank to the tool. You can NOT run the air line from a built in regulator. Those regulators that come on smaller compressors work fine for feeding nail guns or other tools that don’t require much air flow. They are embarrassingly cheap, and will NOT flow the amount of air required by your gun. You need to tap in directly to the tank. Trust me, a tap on an 11 gallon tank at 120 psi will give you all the power your gun can offer (~90 psi working pressure), but feeding it from the built in regulator set to 120 psi won’t work worth beans because it is so restrictive you won’t get anywhere close to 90 psi working pressure. 3/8 fittings or 1/4 high flow couplers are also helpful with small compressors which are typically limited in pressure. Use a short (25 foot) 3/8 hose with good air fittings and it will work just fine. While I was waiting for my new 80 galling compressor to arrive I had to make due with my 11 gallon portable compressor. At 120 psi with the hose tapped directly into the tank, I could easy remove two 36mm axle nuts with my 3/4 before it would kick on.
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After reading yours and other's replies, this is probably what I'll do. I had a fairly novice understanding of how exactly the spec ratings worked. Guess testing it myself is the only way to know!
vanapplebomb
Well-known member
What is the kick on / cut out pressure of your compressor?
Please mind what I wrote in the post above. You can not run the hose to the built in regulator most smaller compressors use. Seriously, they are only big enough to flow a few CFM. To get the flow the 3/4 require, you have to bypass those piece of junk regulators and tap the tank directly. If you compressor cuts out at 155psi, or less, you are safe to tap the tank directly. Use a 25’ 3/8 hose, or up to 50’ 1/2 hose, and you will be golden.
Use a 3/8 coupler or a 1/4 high flow style disconnect to make sure you get the air from the hose to the gun. 1/4 body Industrial/aero/auto style couplers will choke it.
Note that the 225 PSI oilless compressors should not be tapped directly without an external regulator, as it is too much pressure and hammers and anvil can chip/pit and the vanes will wear out faster.
Please mind what I wrote in the post above. You can not run the hose to the built in regulator most smaller compressors use. Seriously, they are only big enough to flow a few CFM. To get the flow the 3/4 require, you have to bypass those piece of junk regulators and tap the tank directly. If you compressor cuts out at 155psi, or less, you are safe to tap the tank directly. Use a 25’ 3/8 hose, or up to 50’ 1/2 hose, and you will be golden.
Use a 3/8 coupler or a 1/4 high flow style disconnect to make sure you get the air from the hose to the gun. 1/4 body Industrial/aero/auto style couplers will choke it.
Note that the 225 PSI oilless compressors should not be tapped directly without an external regulator, as it is too much pressure and hammers and anvil can chip/pit and the vanes will wear out faster.
fang123
Well-known member
Gotcha640
Well-known member
I know 1/2 line will feed the gun, and certainly better than 3/8, but the shop I worked at had 1 inch line on air king/claw fittings, same off the 2 inch line running around the walls.
I would get the 3/4 gun out when I had 30+ 3 inch nuts to break off a pump or gear box, and you could hear the gun dumping the air between strokes.
For the big jobs, or if the mechanic wanted to see me struggle, I'd get the 1 inch gun. I was only 165lb at the time, I think they mostly got a kick out of watching me get rattled around. Not much choice on 5 inch nuts, other than the hammer.
I would get the 3/4 gun out when I had 30+ 3 inch nuts to break off a pump or gear box, and you could hear the gun dumping the air between strokes.
For the big jobs, or if the mechanic wanted to see me struggle, I'd get the 1 inch gun. I was only 165lb at the time, I think they mostly got a kick out of watching me get rattled around. Not much choice on 5 inch nuts, other than the hammer.