3/4 sockets for mechanic

[guitarbutt]

Is there much use for general auto repair mechanics to get a 3/4 socket set? Not for heavy duty or diesel mechanics, but broad spectrum mechanic work. SAE and/ or metric. The harbor freight chrome set looks decent for occasional use, but I'm wondering if they would ever get used working on regular cars, vans, and trucks

 

[Jlbc212]

Is there much use for general auto repair mechanics to get a 3/4 socket set? Not for heavy duty or diesel mechanics, but broad spectrum mechanic work. SAE and/ or metric. The harbor freight chrome set looks decent for occasional use, but I'm wondering if they would ever get used working on regular cars, vans, and trucks

I haven't seen much use for them, but I don't work on trucks or cars everyday. I don't have a set, but I do have a few 3/4" sockets I've bought as needed along with a 1/2" to 3/4"adapter. I've often thought of buying a complete set, SAE and metric as it's nice to have the size on hand when you need it.

 

[seanb02]

I would say no. Just get an adapter to use a long handled 1/2" ratchet with and buy individual sockets as needed. You will only come across a few sizes here and there, such as the nut holding the yoke to the pinion on a rear axle, or maybe the nut holding the front axle to the hub. In heavy equipment agricultural repairs I use them on a regular basis, but very rarely on the automotive stuff that comes through the shop.

 

[skulldrinker]

I have the HF 3/4" Xtreme impact wrench. Doesnt get used but a few times a year. But when you need it you need it. For $40 i got the 3/4" impact socket set. Sometimes a 1/2" impact wont cut it no matter which brand it is. The 3/4" will bust loose anything on a car.

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[ken w.]

I work on most anything from cars , trucks ( C-60 and under ) , some farm equipment. You get the point. I have 3/4" ASE and metric. It's not very often that I need 3/4" drive. My 1/2" set goes to 1 1/2" . That's a pretty big nut. Most of the time when I do use my 3/4" drive I'm using a 1/2" impact wrench with an adapter. If I can't get it off with this , it's time for heat. I agree with the other posters as I would buy single sockets as needed.

 

[Jacobs976]

3/4 is best for the odd job where you need the extra strength to break something loose. Normally something someone's overtorqued. Only need a few sockets and a long breaker though maybe a standard length bar too. My ratchet and T-handle don't really see much use and it's often the 3/4 to 1-1/2 sizes being used with a 40" bar to break stuff loose before 1/2 drive steps in. I work with alot of different fields though so my needs are a bit different too though. Will say its nice to have 3/4 for those nuts that were torqued down like they thought the whole thing would fall apart if it wasn't deforming the metal.

 

[Mb4]

Don’t waste the money unless you specifically need them.

 

[Lookin4'67Galaxieconv]

A quality 3/4" set in used condition can usually be had for less than $100. It's always good to have the capability.

I'd stay away from anything Harbor Freight though, except for the impacts like mentioned previously.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Most guys just use 3/4 sockets as press adapters. Outside of very special cases, 3/4 isnt a normal thing in automotive. Most shops dont have the air to run a proper 3/4 gun anyways.

 

[SJay3660]

I have the Harbor Freight set. Wouldn't buy it again. Ratchet broke the first time I used it.

 

[richfinn]

I have a 3/4 telescopic breaker bar and some 3/4 drive impact sockets I use to crack lugnuts on big vans/twin-wheeler axles etc.

Much less flex than a 1/2" breaker bar

 

[zmotorsports]

For most general automotive work I would suggest saving your money and get a good 1/2" set as that will be of more value and useful than 3/4" stuff.

I have a full set of 3/4" up to 2.5" and use it quite a bit but mostly on heavy RV chassis stuff and on occasion when I work on my neighbor's construction equipment. For automotive work I seldom break out the 3/4" stuff and when I do it's for a pinion yolk nut or something similar. I could easily use my 1/2" stuff but sometimes the 3/4" works better and I use it simply because I have it.

 

[snorky18]

In 20+ years of automotive work, I've used 3/4" drive 1x. Honda Accord Crankshaft bolt. Took ~1300 ft lbs to break it loose.

I've got 1/2" drive set up to 32mm, then I bought a nice 36mm of ebay. Unless you're on heavy duty trucks, or medium-large tractors, I don't see a reason for most to have 3/4" drive.

 

[finn]

I’m not a mechanic, just a retired hobbies.

Got my 3/4” set maybe 25 years ago at the Jefferson swap meet. I have a skid steer and old dump truck, and have sporadic need for the 3/4” kit, but when yon need it, it’s invaluable.

There aren’t many practical work around in some cases.

 

[4 FN 27]

For general auto repair are seldom used. I have a set I bought back in 1997 and I bet I have used them, a couple of Sockets maybe a dozen times to actually turn Bolt or Nut.

I bet I have used them more for pressing odd Bearings...

They are nice to have on hand and I much prefer them over a giant Crescent Wrench or Pipe Wrench.

 

[AL`]

For general auto repair are seldom used. I have a set I bought back in 1997 and I bet I have used them, a couple of Sockets maybe a dozen times to actually turn Bolt or Nut.

I bet I have used them more for pressing odd Bearings...

They are nice to have on hand and I much prefer them over a giant Crescent Wrench or Pipe Wrench.

This mirrors my experience. I'm a DIYer and have a no-name made in Taiwan 3/4 SAE ratchet and socket set my father used for the tractors.

 

[Mick56]

About the only time I've used 3/4 drive sockets is removing the axle nut to change a wheel bearing.
Oh yeah, I before I had a set, I had to borrow one to get the crank bolt out of a GM 3.8 to replace the timing chain. My 1/2 drive set had the right size socket, but even using a cheater pipe on the breaker bar was only bending the bar. After this is when I bought a big set.

 

[Ralf11]

I'll say some use but not "much use"

Yes, axle nuts, etc. esp. on things like VW Vanagons; the smaller the car the less need for them. I also have some dim memories of using 3/4" on old Porsches and those are small cars.

If you get sockets and a big 3/4" breaker bar, you can just use 1/2" ratchet with adaptor after you break it loose. Then there is the issue of putting 300 lbs. of torque on something to re-install it. You can stand on the breaker bar at the right distance based on your wt.

 

[Al Borland]

Had to get a 1 7/16" deep impact and a breaker bar in 3/4" to get the wheel bearing/rotor off my truck. 295 Ft/Lbs torque with locktite from the factory. 1/2" drive sheared the drive off on 2 breaker bars (HD Husky sheared the square drive off, old New Britain split the fork on the handle). 3/4" drive with a 6' cheater pipe, easy-peasy. Thank you Tractor Supply.

 

[anavrinIV]

I have a few odd sockets and a 40" 3/4 breaker bar, only used for axle nuts. My bar isn't the greatest but gets the job done the one a year I need it. Of course I have access to a 1,200 ft-lbs milwaukee impact and socket set if I ever need it (my Makita only does 740 ft-lbs ), if that isn't enough I may be in trouble

 

[guitarbutt]

I have the Harbor Freight set. Wouldn't buy it again. Ratchet broke the first time I used it.

How are the sockets? For $50 after the coupon, it seems like they are a good deal themselves

 

[guitarbutt]

Most of you said what I thought: rarely needed

Thanks for the input

 

[seber]

When I sold the ranch, I sold the 3/4 drive set in the auction. The only time it was ever used was on ag equipment. Cars and trucks and all the various production equipment I work on just don't need anything that big.