3/8" hardened square drive needed.

[rerod]

Evening folks.

So Ive turned a few of these fauset seat wrench's into candy cane's removing prehistoric brass steam trap ******* lately. Ive tried a regular 3/8" ratchet extension, but the corners are to rounded and strip out the 8 point hole in the brass ******.

Any suggestions where to get hardened steel 3/8" keystock? Or even better, 1/2" drive socket fitted with a hardened 3/8" keystock?

Thanks

 

[RedneckWelder]

I wonder if you could drive a piece of key stock with a Lisle tap socket. That way you could easily replace the section of key stock with something easy to source as it got damaged.

 

[larry_g]

Evening folks.

Any suggestions where to get hardened steel 3/8" keystock? Or even better, 1/2" drive socket fitted with a hardened 3/8" keystock?

Thanks

If you need hardened stock with a square shoulder then look into getting some hi-speed steel lathe bits. Insert them into a square socket.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[rerod]

If you need hardened stock with a square shoulder then look into getting some hi-speed steel lathe bits. Insert them into a square socket.

lg
no neat sig line

The hi-speed steel lathe bit looks good.. Thanks

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WLNZ46J/?tag=atomicindus08-20

But I cant find a 1/2 drive to 3/8 square socket. Im using a 20" breaker bar/cheater is why I'm twisting the material and don't think 3/8" drive ratchet will survive.

 

[whateg01]

Looks like 1/2" 8 point sockets are easy to find in 3/8 drive. Can you use one and flip it over?

 

[rerod]

Looks like 1/2" 8 point sockets are easy to find in 3/8 drive. Can you use one and flip it over?

Bingo! Thanks people..

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00271JZLK/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[AmericanMechanic]

Depending on space allowances and configuration, you could probably also turn the HSS or key stock in a regular tap wrench. You'd lose the ratchet capability but benefit from an arm on each side of the bit.

It goes without saying, the harder the material, generally the less tough and more shatter-prone it will be. Eye protection important as always!

 

[KnurledNut]

@rerod
Williams 4-2F (removable plug)

 

[619DioFan]

Pipe plug sockets are for removing 4 point fasteners. my set is from sunex and has both 4 point male and 4 point female sockets.

 

[tamaraw]

I bought a Ko-ken 4110A-3/8 for a transmission oil drain plug. 1/2" drive bit socket with a 3/8" square key on the end, straight sides and no ball detent. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/tools-of-japan.97563/post-9891112

There are other manufacturers that make similar items for automotive drain plugs, probably worth looking into. Chrome one from Mac as an example: https://www.mactools.com/products/xs124

If you want to go with the bar stock/key stock idea and you will really be using this a lot, you could also get a square drive pass-through ratchet. These are normally a non-reversible mechanism where the square drive is a separate removable piece that slides through to the other side when you need to turn the other direction. But in your case, you could just insert the bar straight through the anvil.

For example, an Elora 870-1ZI:


Or here is a Gedore 3093 Z-94:

 

[mmggdd]

Drive end of an old brace and bit auger welded to a 1/2 drive socket.

 

[rerod]

Welp, so much for my back and this hardened fauset seat wrench and I fear that hi-speed steel lathe bit will be to hard and shatter.. Pisses me of my lead was to lazy to find rebuild kits for the 500 steam valves and traps we're in the middle of changing out.

What size 8 point railer bit would equal the 3/8" key stock that fits? Guess I'm going to have to go back to cutting the brass union nut off the trap and valve ******* with a dremel and use a pipe wrench.