cspcrx
Well-known member
I am looking for a nice quality 3/8 torque wrench for under $200. Any recomendations? I appreciate the help.
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3/8 in torque wrench
- Thread starter cspcrx
- Start date
martin666
Well-known member
CDI, great bang for the buck
Mustang1167
Well-known member
I believe CDI makes some snap on torque wrenches. Also precision instruments are also a good quality brand.
Wes J
Well-known member
What size? I have 3 3/8 torque wrenches. 0-50 in-lb dial torque wrench (great for setting pre-load on bearings), 25-250 in-lbs micrometer clicker, and 10-100 ft-lbs split beam clicker.
What torque range?
I'd be looking at a Precision Instruments split beam. They're not reversible but really freaking nice for the not too high price.
http://www.tooldiscounter.com/catalog/PRE.htm
I've got a 1/2" and I love it. I don't think I would voluntarily go back to a micrometer type ever again. Unless I needed to torque a left hand thread fastener or something.
I'd be looking at a Precision Instruments split beam. They're not reversible but really freaking nice for the not too high price.
http://www.tooldiscounter.com/catalog/PRE.htm
I've got a 1/2" and I love it. I don't think I would voluntarily go back to a micrometer type ever again. Unless I needed to torque a left hand thread fastener or something.
Banana Man
Well-known member
I was considering a Precision Instruments split beam myself as I only heard good things about these. I've never used one personally. The only thing is I've heard they can be hard to read or use to a very specific setting. Unlike click style where it's obvious when you reach your setting, it clicks. On the flip side the click style can go out of calibration easily and needs to be reset to zero. Where as beam style doesn't need to be reset to zero, and I've also heard they keep calibration much better. I've only used a Craftsmen clicker, it seemed to have worked well no complaints to speak of. I decided to upgrade to a 3/8 ATECH Snap On Digital, and that was over your price range ($380 new eBay) so I guess it's out of the question but I love it.
20-100 ft lbs is a perfect range anything below that i have a 1/4 for and anything above that i have a 1/2 inch.
My other two are HF, yes i admit it. I got a 3/8 from them also and it just *****. It does not give a clean disernable click like my 1/4 and 1/2 do. I thought about taking it back but since my B-day is in a few weeks and the Mrs is looking for ideas i thought it would be worth an upgrade.
My other two are HF, yes i admit it. I got a 3/8 from them also and it just *****. It does not give a clean disernable click like my 1/4 and 1/2 do. I thought about taking it back but since my B-day is in a few weeks and the Mrs is looking for ideas i thought it would be worth an upgrade.
I was considering a Precision Instruments split beam myself as I only heard good things about these. I've never used one personally. The only thing is I've heard they can be hard to read or use to a very specific setting. Unlike click style where it's obvious when you reach your setting, it clicks. On the flip side the click style can go out of calibration easily and needs to be reset to zero. Where as beam style doesn't need to be reset to zero, and I've also heard they keep calibration much better. I've only used a Craftsmen clicker, it seemed to have worked well no complaints to speak of. I decided to upgrade to a 3/8 ATECH Snap On Digital, and that was over your price range ($380 new eBay) so I guess it's out of the question but I love it.
Are you confusing beam style with split beam style? You don't have to read anything on the PI split beams while using it. They click just like a micrometer type. As for setting them though, there's a little window you look at and mine only has ticks every 5ft/lbs. That seems fine to me though. I can't imagine anyone but a freshman ME designing something where the torque had to be say, 92ft/lbs instead of 91 or 93ft/lbs to avoid catastrophic failure.
Banana Man
Well-known member
Are you confusing beam style with split beam style? You don't have to read anything on the PI split beams while using it. They click just like a micrometer type. As for setting them though, there's a little window you look at and mine only has ticks every 5ft/lbs. That seems fine to me though. I can't imagine anyone but a freshman ME designing something where the torque had to be say, 92ft/lbs instead of 91 or 93ft/lbs to avoid catastrophic failure.
I see, then it's actually still a click style with a different way to set the torque aside from the traditional handle rotating clickers?
I see, then it's actually still a click style with a different way to set the torque aside from the traditional handle rotating clickers?
Yep, there's a little dial you turn to set the torque. With a window to read it out. Very simple. Then you flip a lever over that locks the dial so you don't accidentally turn it. It clicks just like a "clicker" style which I call a Micrometer style because of the adjustment mechanism.
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Look at this beauty...
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Banana Man
Well-known member
Yep, there's a little dial you turn to set the torque. With a window to read it out. Very simple. Then you flip a lever over that locks the dial so you don't accidentally turn it. It clicks just like a "clicker" style which I call a Micrometer style because of the adjustment mechanism.
Thanks for the info on that! As I need another torque wrench in 1/2 drive but don't want to buy a $nap On! So these Micrometer style also need to be reset to zero and easily go out of calibration like standard clickers? Also do they work accurately counterclockwise?
^^^ it is beautiful BTW, thanks for posting these pictures!
Wes J
Well-known member
I don't think you get it. The torque wrench shown above is a split beam. It does not work in counter clockwise. It does not have to be returned to zero.
A micrometer style is the same thing as a "clicker". They work in CCW. They have to be returned to zero.
A micrometer style is the same thing as a "clicker". They work in CCW. They have to be returned to zero.
Yep, there's a little dial you turn to set the torque. With a window to read it out. Very simple. Then you flip a lever over that locks the dial so you don't accidentally turn it. It clicks just like a "clicker" style which I call a Micrometer style because of the adjustment mechanism.
Thanks for the info on that! As I need another torque wrench in 1/2 drive but don't want to buy a $nap On! So these Micrometer style also need to be reset to zero and easily go out of calibration like standard clickers? Also do they work accurately counterclockwise?
^^^ it is beautiful BTW, thanks for posting these pictures!
The spring in a split beam isn't under load unless you are turning the drive end so they don't need to be returned to 0. I confirmed it with PI. They also said it shouldn't lose calibration over time. It will go out of cal, but if you only use it occasionally you shouldn't have to worry about calibrating it.
Thanks all, the CDI or CDI SnapOn looks like a great option and at $137 on Amazon thats a great price.
They seem to be identical other than the handle, the SnapOn looks like it has a rubberized handle vs the plan metal. Range is perfect at 10-100 ft lbs. i will put it on the list, thanks all.
They seem to be identical other than the handle, the SnapOn looks like it has a rubberized handle vs the plan metal. Range is perfect at 10-100 ft lbs. i will put it on the list, thanks all.
Loscaldazar
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2013
- Messages
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PI split beam is the best option out there. They have two 3/8 drive torque ranges, a 10-50 Ft-lbs, and a 20-100 Ft-lbs.
Thanks all, the CDI or CDI SnapOn looks like a great option and at $137 on Amazon thats a great price.
They seem to be identical other than the handle, the SnapOn looks like it has a rubberized handle vs the plan metal. Range is perfect at 10-100 ft lbs. i will put it on the list, thanks all.
Also a good choice. CDI is owned by Snap-On and is the OEM for Snap-On branded torque wrenches. I think you can get the CDI with a black rubber handle, in addition to just the basic metal one.
yes they have both on Amazon for the same price. Seems like the metal handle ones have a lot more reviews, over 300. I like the metal handle but then again never owned one with a rubber handle so not which is better.
Metal vs Rubber tool handles is like any of your big time internet fights. HF Vs. Snap-On, Snap-On Vs. Matco, Snap-On Vs. Mac, Snap-On Vs. SK, Snap-On Vs. Other Snap-On. Rubber handles don't get cold or hot so working in extreme temperatures can be nice. Rubber handles often get funky / gummy when exposed to solvents so avoid getting gasoline or some other chemicals on them. Rubber handles get hard over time and crack. Sometimes they smell bad. Metal handles can be slippery when wet.
You will probably be happy with whichever you go with, so just buy one!
guy48065
Well-known member
I don't think you get it. The torque wrench shown above is a split beam. It does not work in counter clockwise. It does not have to be returned to zero.
A micrometer style is the same thing as a "clicker". They work in CCW. They have to be returned to zero.
Who doesn't get it?
A micrometer clicker is only accurate CCW if it's MARKED as such with a double-ended arrow. There are plenty of quality CW-only clickers--bi-directionality isn't an indicator of quality.
Also STOP saying you must reset a clicker to "zero"! The manuals state the wrench must be reset to the "minimum scale setting"--not the physical end of handle travel. Many clickers can be turned way below their end of scale and this can result in loosening the mechanism to the point that the Pawl (the square block responsible for the "click") can fall out of it's recess internally. If it does your wrench will be inaccurate at best, or at worst won't click at all.