3/8 or 1/2 drive

[mikedodge]

Like what's been said a few times now size all depends on what your working on and the job.

For most automotive stuff 3/8 is the most common but get into something in bigger sizes or parts and you'll probably need 1/2. And for smaller stuff you'll need 1/4.

You mentioned sticking with deep 3/8 in one of your replies, for the most part shallow sockets will do the job and you'll hit places where deep won't fit.

If you're working on GM you'll more than likely need torx bits at some point. If you're working on any older stuff you'll need SAE sizes also.

If you're starting with noting look at getting a socket set that already has all the typical sizes. If you've already got some you might be better off waiting to buy more until you are actually planning on working on something and have a better idea of what you'll need.

 

[drmarkr]

When discussing the acquisition of tools, the proper conjunction is never "or".... it is always "and"....

 

[dchawk81]

When discussing the acquisition of tools, the proper conjunction is never "or".... it is always "and"....

I mean yeah this is really just answering what to buy now. He'll eventually have everything and be asking how to frame a shop to hoard it all.

 

[loconoob]

I know from watching others and seeing videos. improper drive size can be extremely dangerous. that's why I'm asking to make sure I don't end up like that. that's why I ask about the socket bit sets.

 

[dchawk81]

I know from watching others and seeing videos. improper drive size can be extremely dangerous. that's why I'm asking to make sure I don't end up like that. that's why I ask about the socket bit sets.

"Extremely dangerous"

Show me these videos.

 

[drmarkr]

Pretty sure there's a bit of trolling going on here....

 

[loconoob]

Pretty sure there's a bit of trolling going on here....

nope, just want to have the proper drive size for socket bits.

 

[mudflap]

"Extremely dangerous"

Show me these videos.

Me too.. Will need a new thread for the "hold my beer" socket videos...

 

[F-22]

To stay on the safe size, just get everything in 3/4" size. If you can't get it in that size, get it in the next largest size and you can always get adapters to the 3/4" drive.

 

[mike93lx]

I know from watching others and seeing videos. improper drive size can be extremely dangerous. that's why I'm asking to make sure I don't end up like that. that's why I ask about the socket bit sets.

Oh yeah, super dangerous. Could you imagine what would happen if you used 3/4 drive for interior trim or had the audacity to run 1/4 on suspension?? Think of the children!

Warm up the credit card and send it

Mega Master Set Tools Only

{ "1": "Mega Master Set Tools Only" }

www.williams-industrial.com

 

[Ohio Andy]

I assume dangerous means that if the ratchet is too small you break it. So if let's go and you smash fingers.

Too large and you over tork. Maybe crack something.

Just a SWAG

 

[mike93lx]

I assume dangerous means that if the ratchet is too small you break it. So if let's go and you smash fingers.

Too large and you over tork. Maybe crack something.

Just a SWAG

No way.

Being dumb is dangerous. Not being one socket size off from ideal

 

[NUTTSGT]

Pretty sure there's a bit of trolling going on here....

It somewhat appears to be that way doesn't it ?

Typical of an OP to come ask a general question and when members that are trying to help the OP, they ask a question in an attempt to give better advice. That is grazed over by the OP either by not answering it and simply dodging the question.

 

[cherrybomb]

If you spend a little a little time and do the thinking on what you are working on,you will find that overlap gives you some versatility on removing and reinstalling fasteners.A bigger tool to break loose,smaller for ease in your hand.Any time you work on something,evaluate and replace or upgrade if your tools don't work well.The 1/4 now go up to 14mm,the 3/8 down to 8mm,lots of opportunity in some of the most common sizes to improve and make wrenching fun.Most definitely 1/4-3/8,then carefully evaluate your 1/2 needs especially if you plan on using an impact

 

[johninct]

Oh yeah, super dangerous. Could you imagine what would happen if you used 3/4 drive for interior trim or had the audacity to run 1/4 on suspension?? Think of the children!

Warm up the credit card and send it

Mega Master Set Tools Only

{ "1": "Mega Master Set Tools Only" }

www.williams-industrial.com

There was a member years ago that said that he uses 3/4" drive for trim... the screws see the 3/4" drive stuff, screws get scared and just pop out on their own.

 

[mreisner]

It somewhat appears to be that way doesn't it ?

Typical of an OP to come ask a general question and when members that are trying to help the OP, they ask a question in an attempt to give better advice. That is grazed over by the OP either by not answering it and simply dodging the question.

I kind of think we have a 12-year-old in our midst..

 

[bobg03]

A 3/8 set should be good for most tasks using a different length ratchet for space or leverage whichever is needed for the task.

Then supplementing smaller 1/4 and larger 1/2 inch where the need arises.

If this doesn't equate to a good answer then the only way to go is a complete set in all 3 drive sizes, we still don't know what your working on for vehicles. I remember hearing truck but there's a difference in needs btw a 4 cyl 2wd Ranger and a Peterbilt.

Screw it buy all of them...

I'm going with foamer/buff for this OPs board name.

 

[Rinspeed]

I use 3/8" about 80% of the time.

 

[VolvoRyan]

If you hate surprises, get a shop manual, join a car (or for whatever you work on) forum. Research the job, buy what you need.

Most of what you need to know to do anything is on YouTube now.

-Ryan

 

[AEAdam]

Thought this would be a worthwhile thread. I was wrong. Will say this just in case it helps anyone (have a better day)
FACT
God punishes engineers who do dumb things because He knows we know better. That’s why I am unable to use Molly bolts to hang draperies in my house for example. God instantly rips them out, leaving a huge hole in the drywall for me to fix as punishment. People who don’t understand strength of materials are permitted by God to mount tvs and book shelves with picture hangers or blue tack.

So it may come as no surprise that Satan is in fact, the OEM for Tekton bit sockets. They were designed to punish cheap car mechanics. Even project farm rated them satanic (I think that’s what he said). I believe the Allen bits are made from pot metal and the sockets are chromed aluminum. Pretty sure they took a page out of Craftsman’s playbook and only made one set and they just mark them in metric or inches as the eternal deceiver commands.

 

[mikey03]

So it may come as no surprise that Satan is in fact, the OEM for Tekton bit sockets. They were designed to punish cheap car mechanics. Even project farm rated them satanic (I think that’s what he said). I believe the Allen bits are made from pot metal and the sockets are chromed aluminum. Pretty sure they took a page out of Craftsman’s playbook and only made one set and they just mark them in metric or inches as the eternal deceiver commands.

That’s real good to know I was just looking at them the other day but now I’ll pass
which ones do you like? How about for torx?

 

[AEAdam]

That’s real good to know I was just looking at them the other day but now I’ll pass
which ones do you like? How about for torx?

Best are probably Snap On, Hazet, or Koken. VIM might be good enough. Project Farm thought Kobalt were ok, but didn't compare them against the non ROC tools (IIRC). I advise caution. My opinion, these are not tools to be triffled with. Pro mechanics or serious amateurs like me are really risking God's vengence when we buy cheap bit sockets.

First warning sign is that slight give under pressure. Good bit sockets don't do that. They just feel locked up. Next sign is play between the bit and the fastener. Third would be the bright spots on the tips of the socket where they are starting to break down. Ignore the warning signs, there's a good chance the next time you open your tool box, 10,000 locusts will fly out.

 

[dchawk81]

Best are probably Snap On, Hazet, or Koken. VIM might be good enough. Project Farm thought Kobalt were ok, but didn't compare them against the non ROC tools (IIRC). I advise caution. My opinion, these are not tools to be triffled with. Pro mechanics or serious amateurs like me are really risking God's vengence when we buy cheap bit sockets.

First warning sign is that slight give under pressure. Good bit sockets don't do that. They just feel locked up. Next sign is play between the bit and the fastener. Third woudl be teh bright spots on the tips of the socket where they are starting to break down. Ignore the warning signs, there's a good chance the next time you open your tool box, 10,000 locusts will fly out.

There's still a broken bit socket top stuck in the mirror bracket on my Mack.

I agree. Buy good ones if anything is expected to be tight. A little overkill for putting together exercise bicycles and Ikea furniture though.

 

[Dakotadadv8]

CM V Series appears to be ok from Lowes. Still have the CM USA torx bit socket set from Sears in 2005 still ok.

 

[MarcSeattle]

There have been 11 posts by the OP but he still won't describe what he will work on. I'm done with this thread.

 

[mikey03]

There have been 11 posts by the OP but he still won't describe what he will work on. I'm done with this thread.

lol I saw someone in another thread a few weeks ago take a guess that it was an AI bot who isn’t capable in the coding to answer certain questions like that and I’m honored an AI would have a big enough opinion of me to care what I think ‍

 

[richfinn]

Best are probably Snap On, Hazet, or Koken. VIM might be good enough. Project Farm thought Kobalt were ok, but didn't compare them against the non ROC tools (IIRC). I advise caution. My opinion, these are not tools to be triffled with. Pro mechanics or serious amateurs like me are really risking God's vengence when we buy cheap bit sockets.

First warning sign is that slight give under pressure. Good bit sockets don't do that. They just feel locked up. Next sign is play between the bit and the fastener. Third would be the bright spots on the tips of the socket where they are starting to break down. Ignore the warning signs, there's a good chance the next time you open your tool box, 10,000 locusts will fly out.

I like the Ko-ken 3/8" drive 38mm length Torx bit sockets for general use, good pricing and very tough

My metric hex bit sockets long/short are mostly Snap-On and they have been very good.

I do like the shorter lengths offered nowadays they definitely don't twist as much and improve access in a lot of places, but when I need a longer bit I reach for the old Snap-Ons

 

[AEAdam]

I like the Ko-ken 3/8" drive 38mm length Torx bit sockets for general use, good pricing and very tough

My metric hex bit sockets long/short are mostly Snap-On and they have been very good.

I do like the shorter lengths offered nowadays they definitely don't twist as much and improve access in a lot of places, but when I need a longer bit I reach for the old Snap-Ons

Agree 100%

The top drawer of my toolbox contains sockets ratchets and extensions. I have 6 sets of metric hex sockets. Along with some specials, like etorx, low pros and swivels, these take up about 1/3 of my drawer.

I have many sets of extensions, collected over years, wobbles, lockers, locking wobbles, extra longs. Along with my yellow ratchet collection, these tools take up about another 1/3 of my drawer.

That last 1/3 are all bit sockets. To be fair, some are all laying flat so they take up more space than my hex sockets do. Point is, if you want to work effectively on cars, these are REALLY important tools. Don’t mess around with cheap bit sockets. You don’t need a dozen different sets, but you do need at least a good set of torx and allens, and if you work on German stuff a couple triple squares.

Like @richfinn, I have std length, longs, shorts, ball end allens, and some swivel torx. This is a lifetime‘s collection of tools. Looks like I have 4 sets metric Allens. These were helpful when I was working on german cars. Many of the bolts that used to be Allen are now torx, so grain of salt on them. And I’m noticing, I don’t have a full set of long torx, just T30 and T40 in a couple lengths each.



So this isn’t a good go-by necessarily. I could work with less. But hoping this can be a consciousness raiser for folks who think a complete socket set is whatever comes in the blow molded case.

 

[cherrybomb]

There have been 11 posts by the OP but he still won't describe what he will work on. I'm done with this thread.

Agreed, but look at the positives that lots of good advice by our knowledgeable members brought here.The advice maybe helps those that are thinking of purchasing or upgrading. On a new vehicle or situation, when I get finished I ask myself, did my tools work O.K.or should I change something?Sometimes a tech recommended tool in that one size is the correct answer

 

[joel63]

Agree 100%

The top drawer of my toolbox contains sockets ratchets and extensions. I have 6 sets of metric hex sockets. Along with some specials, like etorx, low pros and swivels, these take up about 1/3 of my drawer.

I have many sets of extensions, collected over years, wobbles, lockers, locking wobbles, extra longs. Along with my yellow ratchet collection, these tools take up about another 1/3 of my drawer.

That last 1/3 are all bit sockets. To be fair, some are all laying flat so they take up more space than my hex sockets do. Point is, if you want to work effectively on cars, these are REALLY important tools. Don’t mess around with cheap bit sockets. You don’t need a dozen different sets, but you do need at least a good set of torx and allens, and if you work on German stuff a couple triple squares.

Like @richfinn, I have std length, longs, shorts, ball end allens, and some swivel torx. This is a lifetime‘s collection of tools. Looks like I have 4 sets metric Allens. These were helpful when I was working on german cars. Many of the bolts that used to be Allen are now torx, so grain of salt on them. And I’m noticing, I don’t have a full set of long torx, just T30 and T40 in a couple lengths each.



So this isn’t a good go-by necessarily. I could work with less. But hoping this can be a consciousness raiser for folks who think a complete socket set is whatever comes in the blow molded case.

You have a solid understanding and appreciation for what tools are needed to fix stuff.

 

[mikey03]

@AEAdam speaking of specialty bit sockets I got an idea this week trying to organize my tools more efficient into stuff that is more commonly used which is to say for sizes that are not standard or common like 9mm and 11mm I could separate them out into a separate “speciality size / bit” section of tools.

you need e torx but unless you are working on those particular cars all the time you don’t want e torx to be bumping into you every time you open the socket drawer to ****** a 10mm

well I never seen a 9mm or 11mm or 20mm or 23mm fastener but I seen old posts here of people saying “oh yeah the 23mm was used on the 1973 GM sway bars” or something and how skips are the devil.

so I got to thinking maybe I do need these sizes but they don’t got to be in the top main section of tools. They just have to be available when I need it like e torx. so why not move them out of the way of your main tools that are common sizes? Treat non standard hex sockets and wrenches the same as your treating security torx

only thing I could think is if you are often using the wrong size wrench or socket on damaged fasteners then you’d like to have that 9 and 11 next to your 10 so if the 10 don’t fit you can move up or down right away without having to dig deeper in your tools for them.

 

[AEAdam]

@AEAdam speaking of specialty bit sockets I got an idea this week trying to organize my tools more efficient into stuff that is more commonly used which is to say for sizes that are not standard or common like 9mm and 11mm I could separate them out into a separate “speciality size / bit” section of tools.

you need e torx but unless you are working on those particular cars all the time you don’t want e torx to be bumping into you every time you open the socket drawer to ****** a 10mm

well I never seen a 9mm or 11mm or 20mm or 23mm fastener but I seen old posts here of people saying “oh yeah the 23mm was used on the 1973 GM sway bars” or something and how skips are the devil.

so I got to thinking maybe I do need these sizes but they don’t got to be in the top main section of tools. They just have to be available when I need it like e torx. so why not move them out of the way of your main tools that are common sizes? Treat non standard hex sockets and wrenches the same as your treating security torx

only thing I could think is if you are often using the wrong size wrench or socket on damaged fasteners then you’d like to have that 9 and 11 next to your 10 so if the 10 don’t fit you can move up or down right away without having to dig deeper in your tools for them.

Good idea. If you find my little fastener size chart, you could use it to limit the tools you need for specific vehicles (maybe all or most Asian vehicles, all euro, all US). If you own cars in all those categories, you won’t find many skips in your set.

Suggest looking into unlabeled magnetic holders like Mechanics Time Savers. It’s possible you could color code socket sets for Hondas, or Porsches, GM etc. That would mean duplicates of 8, 10, maybe 17mm but not a dumb idea.

For those of us with big toolboxes I suspect many of us do something similar. I almost always have a 1/4” flex ratchet with a 10mm on it. 8mm on the little T72. The longer 3/8” flex has 13 or 14 on it most of the time and I have the sockets I need and haven’t put back in a mag dish.

So, if you follow, good idea kinda but also bad idea. If you want to clear up space in your box, start with a long hard look at your SAE collection, those clunky 12pt impacts you thought were a great idea, and the 50 cheap ratchets you bought just to see what all the fuss was about.

 

[mikey03]

Mg

Good idea. If you find my little fastener size chart, you could use it to limit the tools you need for specific vehicles (maybe all or most Asian vehicles, all euro, all US). If you own cars in all those categories, you won’t find many skips in your set.

Suggest looking into unlabeled magnetic holders like Mechanics Time Savers. It’s possible you could color code socket sets for Hondas, or Porsches, GM etc. That would mean duplicates of 8, 10, maybe 17mm but not a dumb idea.

yea I mean I haven’t seen anything out of 8 10 12 13 14 17 19 21 22 24 27

I saw a post here maybe from you idk about standard sizes and ISO and DIN and i think 15 16 18 are part of that but maybe newer cars than I work on or maybe different car companies.

 

[Ohio Andy]

@AEAdam speaking of specialty bit sockets I got an idea this week trying to organize my tools more efficient into stuff that is more commonly used which is to say for sizes that are not standard or common like 9mm and 11mm I could separate them out into a separate “speciality size / bit” section of tools.

you need e torx but unless you are working on those particular cars all the time you don’t want e torx to be bumping into you every time you open the socket drawer to ****** a 10mm

well I never seen a 9mm or 11mm or 20mm or 23mm fastener but I seen old posts here of people saying “oh yeah the 23mm was used on the 1973 GM sway bars” or something and how skips are the devil.

so I got to thinking maybe I do need these sizes but they don’t got to be in the top main section of tools. They just have to be available when I need it like e torx. so why not move them out of the way of your main tools that are common sizes? Treat non standard hex sockets and wrenches the same as your treating security torx

only thing I could think is if you are often using the wrong size wrench or socket on damaged fasteners then you’d like to have that 9 and 11 next to your 10 so if the 10 don’t fit you can move up or down right away without having to dig deeper in your tools for them.

Well, if you're like me, you'll organize it. Put it somewhere specific in them when you need it. You can't find it

 

[gungatim]

Most stuff I work on is 3/8". I can get by on 1/4" for a lot of stuff.

Except suspension work. 1/2" all the way for that.

I only use 3/4" occasionally for big equipment like my tractor.

High quality tools are so cheap these days, why not buy a full set?

 

[Dave455]

Mg

yea I mean I haven’t seen anything out of 8 10 12 13 14 17 19 21 22 24 27

I saw a post here maybe from you idk about standard sizes and ISO and DIN and i think 15 16 18 are part of that but maybe newer cars than I work on or maybe different car companies.

16 and 18 replaced 17 and 19 in the ISO series some years back. BMW started using the newer sizes from early 2000’s, but some makers never have.

15 is an ANSI (American) size, but I have found it on all sorts of European stuff as a “non standard” - belt tensioners come to mind.

 

[mikey03]

Suggest looking into unlabeled magnetic holders like Mechanics Time Savers. It’s possible you could color code socket sets for Hondas, or Porsches, GM etc.

can you please explain how to color code them, what are you applying color to, the socket or the holder or something else

 

[AEAdam]

can you please explain how to color code them, what are you applying color to, the socket or the holder or something else

The holder.

Mechanics Time Savers make plastic blocks with holes drilled or molded into them. Some of them aren't big enough to hold entire sets. So these would be ideal for a selection of most used sockets. I use them in this way sometimes.

You can buy these in different colors. For the scenario I suggested, you couldn't simply choose red for SAE and Black or gray for metric. Because in this case, you could have multiple metric sets, one for JIS cars, one for DIN, etc.

Got it? Its really not a great idea, as I said.



This might interest you:
When we moved to the UK, we had a house in the country with no garage. Just a damp gravel parking area. But that didn't stop me from working on my cars.

Lots of mechanics I knew there really liked the Blue Point blow molded socket cases. Like me, many didn't have nice garages to work in. Some would replace the BP tools with Snap On over time. They really liked the convenience of those cases.

So I bought heavy duty plastic boxes in the Container Store when I was home and took them over and fitted tools into them. I had multiple "kits". A 1/4" drive kit oriented toward interiors, a 3/8" drive kit with more engine bay tools, and a 1/2" kit with impacts and pry bars (but some stuff never fit and that was ok.).

I recently found these pics:


This is the 1/4" kit with metric shallows and semi deeps only. I had a couple BP bit sockets and some tiny ratchet wrenches which actually came in handy.



This is a little corner of the 3/8" kit. My torx sockets were out for some reason. The screwdrivers were just loose, I never created a fitted place for them, which was good enough. I was trying to color code the kits, red for 1/4" drive, yellow for 3/8" and orange for 1/2". That never really worked out exactly and I gave up on that.



These kits did come in handy. I didn't have to do tons to my cars there. But I was able to help my neighbors, which was nice. We didn't keep our house, but we still visit. I miss my friends in the UK.

 

[Dave455]

Agree 100%

The top drawer of my toolbox contains sockets ratchets and extensions. I have 6 sets of metric hex sockets. Along with some specials, like etorx, low pros and swivels, these take up about 1/3 of my drawer.

I have many sets of extensions, collected over years, wobbles, lockers, locking wobbles, extra longs. Along with my yellow ratchet collection, these tools take up about another 1/3 of my drawer.

That last 1/3 are all bit sockets. To be fair, some are all laying flat so they take up more space than my hex sockets do. Point is, if you want to work effectively on cars, these are REALLY important tools. Don’t mess around with cheap bit sockets. You don’t need a dozen different sets, but you do need at least a good set of torx and allens, and if you work on German stuff a couple triple squares.

Like @richfinn, I have std length, longs, shorts, ball end allens, and some swivel torx. This is a lifetime‘s collection of tools. Looks like I have 4 sets metric Allens. These were helpful when I was working on german cars. Many of the bolts that used to be Allen are now torx, so grain of salt on them. And I’m noticing, I don’t have a full set of long torx, just T30 and T40 in a couple lengths each.



So this isn’t a good go-by necessarily. I could work with less. But hoping this can be a consciousness raiser for folks who think a complete socket set is whatever comes in the blow molded case.

Awesome set up!

I agree with your thoughts regarding bit sockets.

You can currently get some, really quite acceptable, conventional sockets at reasonable cost. By “quite acceptable” I mean that they work reasonably well.

That just isn’t the case for bit sockets. The really cheap ones twist, deform, or simply break under quite moderate torque. They don’t fit well in the first place either!

I also agree with the general consensus advising Snap On, Hazet or KoKen. All are acceptable, though I would probably add Stahlwille to that list.

One other maker worthy of consideration is Wera. There are things I like and dislike about these, but interestingly, although Wera have the socket part of these tools made in Taiwan, the bit part is manufactured in the Czech republic.

 

[dchawk81]

Pretty sure there's a bit of trolling going on here....

Could just be a drinking exercise.