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3/8" vs 1/2" Ratchet

strnjss

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I'm interested in know how necessary you all think having 1/2" ratchets and sockets are.

I have sockets that go right up to 1", and all my ratchets and sockets are 3/8". Even my breaker bar is a 3/8"

I've never felt like I was going to break them.

From my understanding, 1/2" are for strength, but how much strength are you actually getting?

Does a 1/2" ratchet give you more torque somehow as well as strength?
 
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rednecklimo85

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1/2" drive may be more important then 1/4". the ratchet heads them selves are stronger, the longer handles produce more torque without using a cheater pipe. and the thicker sockets are stronger as well. do you do alot of your own maint or do you just change oil? i doubt your taking lug nuts off with 3/8" set but if all your doing is pulling a drain plug, 1/2" is probably over kill. i would consider picking up a set of 1/2" sockets and rachet. the one time you need it, it will pay for its self.
 

neil.auguste

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Jul 26, 2010
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1/2 ratchets give you more leverage, I use both 1/2 ratchets and 3/8 ratchets for auto.. repair jobs.. makes the job easier, for home use 3/8 ratchets are good enough
 
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strnjss

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1/2" drive may be more important then 1/4". the ratchet heads them selves are stronger, the longer handles produce more torque without using a cheater pipe. and the thicker sockets are stronger as well. do you do alot of your own maint or do you just change oil? i doubt your taking lug nuts off with 3/8" set but if all your doing is pulling a drain plug, 1/2" is probably over kill. i would consider picking up a set of 1/2" sockets and rachet. the one time you need it, it will pay for its self.

I do actually take lug nuts off with my 3/8" haha.
 

matthew

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Lug nuts are doable with 3/8", but marginal. The biggest 3/8" torque wrench I can recall seeing is 100 ft-lb, which is enough for some cars, but not all (offhand, the cars in my family I've torqued lug nuts on are 88, 100, 112, and 140 ft-lb). Removing torque can even be a bit higher, I'm not sure I'd want to just use a relatively short handled 3/8" ratchet or breaker bar for lug nut duty on the higher torque stuff.

I don't find the 7/16", 1/2" or 9/16" to be all that useful in 1/2" drive, but larger than that the extra strenght is nice.
 
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strnjss

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What are you working on most of the time?

anything that comes up mostly. Bad parts, etc. the worst thing I use it on was lug nuts that I remember. But I use it with my 3/8" breaker bar and 3/8" torque wrench all the time with no issues. I mean I've dealt with really stuck stuff before, but PB blaster has saved me.

I do have 1/2" sockets for my impact gun, which I barely use. but I was contemplating a 1/2" ratchet too. But was just wondering what kind of advantages there are.
 

dsaabm

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For just mini services, 3/8 is perfect. Sparkplugs, filters, oil, brakes, etc. Anything more involved you should have 1/2" drive in your box. just offhand the 2 control arm bushings on a Neon SRT4, torqued to 175 lbs for the vertical and 120 ft lbs for the horizontal one. Not something for 3/8" drive.
 
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strnjss

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Lug nuts are doable with 3/8", but marginal. The biggest 3/8" torque wrench I can recall seeing is 100 ft-lb, which is enough for some cars, but not all (offhand, the cars in my family I've torqued lug nuts on are 88, 100, 112, and 140 ft-lb). Removing torque can even be a bit higher, I'm not sure I'd want to just use a relatively short handled 3/8" ratchet or breaker bar for lug nut duty on the higher torque stuff.

I don't find the 7/16", 1/2" or 9/16" to be all that useful in 1/2" drive, but larger than that the extra strenght is nice.

You're right, my torque wrench just goes to 100 ft/lbs
 

1969

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You really should have a 1/2" set, ever so basic. Alot of suspension work requires something more substantial than the 3/8" you now have. JMHO
 

Scout Driver

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Get yourself a nice 1/2" ratchet and use it for awhile on some of your heavier tasks. You will wonder how you lived without it.

Scott
 

Hank McMauser

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Payette County Idaho
If Boston road salt/rust was anything like Northern Ohio and I'm sure it was,you'll appreciate having a 1/2 drive set,come to think of it you might also need an acetylene gas wrench if the fasteners are as bad as some I dealt with when I lived in the rust belt.
 

greencar

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I'm not a mechanic but a hobbyist. I think you need 1/2 inch drive. I mostly use 3/8 drive for automotive but once I get to 3/4 inch bolts or nuts than the 1/2 inch comes out.
 

Bran Diezel

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i took a 96 mustang down to the frame once with a 3/8 ratchet. the k member and control arms about killed me.

man, that was a long time ago

DEFINITELY BUY 1/2!!
 
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strnjss

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Ok, you've all sold me. Next time I go shopping, I'll pick one up. Since I already own standard and metric impacts (HF versions) I'm just going to get a ratchet for them.

From what I've seen, they seem to go for around $10-20 in price. At least the HF version and Home Depot Husky version. I suppose I'd spend as much as $30 if there were some advantages.

Any tips on brand/model I should get other than the Husky?
 

logical

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I've seen some Bahco and other automotive tool kits that were 1/4 and 1/2 only, no 3/8 at all. Lots of 1/4 sets go at least up to 12mm and most 1/2 sets start at 10mm so you can easily cover everything without 3/6 at all...............not that any of us ever would.
 

Bran Diezel

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i would get something at least 12"-17" long. i dont have a ton of use for 10" 1/2 drive stuff. then again i dont worry about keeping cheater bars around.
 
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strnjss

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i would get something at least 12"-17" long. i dont have a ton of use for 10" 1/2 drive stuff. then again i dont worry about keeping cheater bars around.

Thanks, I'm thinking about going for this:

I think it's 12.6" long

http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hard...-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053#BVRRWidgetID

b5511f03-ee18-4a15-a86c-af4151b585ca_300.jpg
 

spongerich

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Ok, you've all sold me. Next time I go shopping, I'll pick one up. Since I already own standard and metric impacts (HF versions) I'm just going to get a ratchet for them.

From what I've seen, they seem to go for around $10-20 in price. At least the HF version and Home Depot Husky version. I suppose I'd spend as much as $30 if there were some advantages.

Any tips on brand/model I should get other than the Husky?

IMO, your $20 is better spent picking up a nice used 1/2" here.

For the same money as a decent-but-probably-not-great HF, you might find an SK, MAC, Herbrand, Armstrong, etc, etc...

I have an 1/2" Herbrand that I got here a while ago and it's my favorite by far. I also have a bunch of older Craftsman's and some of them are very nice, but the Herbrand is smooth and just feels right in my hand.
 
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MattT

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Lug nuts are doable with 3/8", but marginal.

3/8" ratchets won't reliably bust loose lugs. I broke a Mac XR attempting it a few weeks back. Then remembered I had my SO 3/8" breaker was in the toolbag too and that did bust them loose but I wouldn't recommend it. This was a situation I wasn't expecting where I had nothing else available.

My experience with 1/2" drive is that it definitely still has it's uses for higher torque automotive use. For ratchets I can't remember the last time I used my standard length because I can get just as much torque with a long 3/8" long. Still use the 15" ratchet and 18" and 24" breaker bars with a ratchet adaptor.
 

matthew

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If you think you're going to be doing anything more intensive than lug nuts, I'd start looking for a 1/2" set. I'd probably look for a used one, it's no rush so you can wait till you find a deal, but if you don't enjoy the search then nothing wrong with buying new.

If you're just going to do lug nuts, I'd just use the impact sockets and look for a long 1/2" ratchet, at least 15" long. An older model that even just has 20 or 24 teeth is sufficient. Just look for the longer ratchet - having used a 10" long one this weekend, it was tough on my arm and hands, I went and found the long one for the next bolt. Alternatively, buy a cheap breaker bar and a speeder. It's old fashioned but great if you're just doing a few bolts and don't want to get out the impact. Or buy all 3 - ratchet, breaker and speeder.
 

bindernut

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I have some old tractors that I work on. Just yesterday I was using a long handle Craftsman 1/2" drive ratchet w/ a 3/4" socket. took all I had to get the nuts loose. For a while, I thought I'd have to get out the 24" breaker bar. A 3/8 ratchet or breaker bar wouldn't have gotten the job done.
 

matthew

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3/8" ratchets won't reliably bust loose lugs.

Reliably is the key word. For my one car, 88 ft-lb is all it takes, it's not too bad for 3/8", but I'd go for the 1/2" if they'd been on for a while and got rusted up. For my Dad's truck I wouldn't even try it with 3/8".
 
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mojo_13

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KEH

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I've changed a huge number of tires on personal vehicles and farm machinery. I seldom use 1/2 ratchets and never 3/8 tools. I always use a 1/2 pull handle or an air wrench and now have a cheap 24 volt impact which I haven't tried on wheels yet.

I don't like the idea of having wife and daughters on the side of the road with a flat tire and inadequate tools, i.e., factory tool kit. Try to have a breaker bar or specialty kit in cars. Gave married daughter an old flea market short Snap on 1/2 drive breaker, the correct socket, and a piece of pipe. She never had reason to use it. Came upon a long HF breaker bar and gave it to her so she could eliminate the cheater pipe. The next week they had a flat, she lucked out, hubby was along to change the tire, HF bar worked fine.

So what I'm saying about tires is, get your family car equipped for emergencies, never mid the 3/8 stuff for tire changes.

Like the other posts said, 1/2 stuff is comforting for suspension work.

KEH
 

King Bojack

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Get big 1/2" stuff for big tough fasteners. Your tools and shoulders, wrists etc. will thank you. HF makes it affordable for just about any one to get a decent set of 1/2 sockets.
 

bmxr4life87

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Trust me get the longest breaker you can and at minimum 15" ratchet! I have a 15"flex head cman raisedpanel cost about $30 new and Its well paid for itself now I have a locking flex matco 24" 88tooth ratchet and I still have to put a pipe on it from time to time! I also have a flip socket on a hf 24" breaker in the trunk of the wifes car along with a torque wrench for under $50 I don't have to worry about her I even keep my 3k lb aluminum jack in the trunk so its almost enjoyable changing a tire
 

Tool Pants

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This might solve a ratchet drive size issue....
 

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Red Green

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If you were working on cars that have been in Michigan you couldn't live without a 1/2" set. More than once I have had to use the 1/2" breaker bar and pipe to get lug nuts loose on a car that a tire store put on with an impact.
 

tjmonsen5

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i always use 1/2 when removing my lug nuts, and big bolts on my car. Always using my 1/2s for motor mounts, subframes, steering racks, etc.
 

blarf

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Depends on the car. With the Volvos, I was quite content with my 1/2" drive stuff for most things, and the 1/4" for the smaller things. With the Bimmer I want 3/8" for most things, including suspension. For some stuff, like the TORX junk, it's just much easier to find 3/8" tools than 1/2".

1/2" drive for the lug nuts in any case. Even at 80ish lb-ft of torque, I'd still much rather break them loose with an 18+ inch breaker bar.
 

crewchief888

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i'm a field mechanic on construction eq,
i use 3/8" dr 90% of the time. i rarely need 1/4" drive, except to reach bolts in tight places that a 3/8" socket/extension wont work.
i rarely use a 1/2" dr ratchet or breaker bar, thats what my 1/2" impact is for,
if that dont work it's time for heat and a 3/4"dr gun

:beer:
 

tyreguy25

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Jun 15, 2010
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1/2" drive is more than useful for suspension work.

I too, have to ask, why do a couple of tool sets kind of neglect the 3/8" drive sets and include only 1/4 and 1/2? The 3/8 is kind of the all around, but the 1/4 works for spark plugs and what not while the 1/2 will do everything else...I assume I am close here.
 

TheGrooveking

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An alternate reality in a parallel universe.
I've changed a huge number of tires on personal vehicles and farm machinery. I seldom use 1/2 ratchets and never 3/8 tools. I always use a 1/2 pull handle or an air wrench and now have a cheap 24 volt impact which I haven't tried on wheels yet.

I don't like the idea of having wife and daughters on the side of the road with a flat tire and inadequate tools, i.e., factory tool kit. Try to have a breaker bar or specialty kit in cars. Gave married daughter an old flea market short Snap on 1/2 drive breaker, the correct socket, and a piece of pipe. She never had reason to use it. Came upon a long HF breaker bar and gave it to her so she could eliminate the cheater pipe. The next week they had a flat, she lucked out, hubby was along to change the tire, HF bar worked fine.

So what I'm saying about tires is, get your family car equipped for emergencies, never mid the 3/8 stuff for tire changes.

Like the other posts said, 1/2 stuff is comforting for suspension work.

KEH

+1, The wife's car has a HF 1/2" breaker bar with a 6 pt Proto 21mm deep impact socket on it and a HF 1/2" torque wrench with a 6 pt Proto 21 mm deep chrome socket on it (I used a hole saw and cut a hole into the case so the socket stays on the torque wrench). There are labels on them, on the breaker bar says "Use to loosen lug nuts" and on the torque wrench is says
"Set to 76 ft pounds to tighten lug nuts" I've trained the wife how to use them. So for under $50 she is ready for changing a flat.

I also threw in a 2 ton Craftsman jack that is in a case and she knows where to place it when raising the car and she knows to never get under the car or tire being removed/installed.

Its important to make sure the ladies know how to do things.

TheGrooveking
 
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