Depends on the application, but 3/8" may be a not great compromise. Too bulky to get where the 1/4" stuff goes, and too weak to do the job of 1/2" tools.
3/8" vs 1/2" Ratchet
- Thread starter strnjss
- Start date
Depends on the application, but 3/8" may be a not great compromise. Too bulky to get where the 1/4" stuff goes, and too weak to do the job of 1/2" tools.
Moose-LandTran
Well-known member
Essential, for me.
What if you need a 1-1/2" socket for a nut or bolt? And the torque in order to loosen/tighten it? I have breaker bars in 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4". Need them all.
Lots of people feel like that... ...right up until they break them.
It's mostly more torque (due to length) but the Snap-on Dual-80s are rated at something like 700lb/ft. Quite a lot more of both.
If it's longer, yes.
As a mechanic, i need 1/2" drive stuff. I use 3/8" most of the time, but i need 1/2" when 3/8" isn't suitable, same goes for 1/4". It's also the sockets you need, many don't come in 3/8" and an adapter on a 3/8" ratchet or breaker bar doesn't give enough torque.
LincolnCont.
Well-known member
Grainger Catalog: I just ordered a deep and shallow impact 24mm Proto on Thurs., they have'm in a set but not shown individual
Moose-LandTran
Well-known member
No it isn't. I have about 4 of them.
moparmuscle88
Well-known member
1/2 was the first i got when i was just doing my own maintenance (excluding the chinese kit my dad gave me for my birthday that i proceeded to break almost every component of)
older cars especially youll need it for lots of stuff because some bolts havent been loosesned in 20 years and dont want to come off
and if you have impact sockets, dont buy regular just yet, theres only a few places that you need a thinwall over an impact and those you will likely not encounter doing regular maintenance. go to the pawn shop or somehwere and buy a good used snap on, mac or sk 1/2 ratchet and you should be good
older cars especially youll need it for lots of stuff because some bolts havent been loosesned in 20 years and dont want to come off
and if you have impact sockets, dont buy regular just yet, theres only a few places that you need a thinwall over an impact and those you will likely not encounter doing regular maintenance. go to the pawn shop or somehwere and buy a good used snap on, mac or sk 1/2 ratchet and you should be good
sko
Active member
as a tractor/trailer mechanic i don't use a 1/2" ratchet at all i do everything with either 3/8" or 3/4" but i do some of my own automotive work and for that i use just 1/4" or 1/2" and i don't use 3/8 hardly ever.
You beat me to it GC.Griff93
Well-known member
1/2" and 9/16" sockets are useful for head bolts on some domestic stuff.
I use 1/2 in drive stuff daily but I do a lot of suspension/driveline work and 4wd work.
Krokodil
Well-known member
I use 1/2" dr 95% of the time. Occasionally I'll use 1/4" dr for delicate stuff, but never have I used 3/8" dr. I have no need. 1/2" and 1/4" dr overlaps sufficiently.
Generally, I do the same thing. Unless it's a suspension part then it's 1/2 dr at 5/8. I'd get a 1/2 dr ratchet, a slightly longer than normal one and a 1/2 dr short socket set to start out. Follow up with a 1/2 dr deep and then a long handled 1/2 dr flex head ratchet.
Get a nice breaker bar. A lot of guys buy the HF, sorry but not me. When you pull out the breaker bar it's for some serious pulling and I feel more confident with a big old beefy US branded breaker bar. I have an older long Craftsman and a Proto I like to use and also an SK with a nice comfort grip.
Post up a WTB ad in the classifieds. With as many ratchets that guy's here have you'll be sure to get a good deal on some quality tools.
I live in the rust belt. Somebody said he did not find small 1/2" sockets useful. I had to use 3/8 to 1/2 adapter to put a 14mm in my 1/2" ratchet because i couldn't break something loose and my new I/2"Eastwood socket set didn't go that low. I don't use 1/2 that much but i have plenty of ratchets and was using impact sockets. Sometimes they just can't squeeze in there soI got the Easrwood chrome set which is probably equivalent to HF with a better selection of sizes. I worked in a shop and we had a system for torque adjustments. Tighten until it breaks and back off a 1/2 a turn. I will never forget one morning at another job when a a co worker had a flat and several guys were trying to get the tire off her car. It took a half inch ratchet, a cheater bar and my jumping on the cheater pipe before it creaked loose. 3/8, you've got to be kidding. My truck lug nuts are 135 ft-lbs. and somebody mentioned tire shops that go nuts with their impact wrenches. After buying tires you should set torque anyway. Few shops use a torque wrench and uneven torque can warp a rotor and if you have one way over tightened, better to deal with it at home than on the road if you get a flat
Sticks McGee
Well-known member
I turn wrenches for a living. 3/8" drive 95% of the time. I have my standard length 1/2" ratchet with a long extension on my tool cart. I am a fleet mechanic and 85% of my fleet is MB sprinters. I have the oil filter remover sitting on the cart with the 1/2" drive socket on it and grab my 1/2" ratchet for doing the oil filters. Lug nuts are removed 99% of the time with my Mac battery impact (1/2") and I run them up with that and torque with my 1/2" torque wrench. pretty much everything else I use 3/8" drive on. Just last week I pulled the front differential out of my GMC all wheel drive van to put a ring and pinion and new bearings in. The entire job was done with 3/8" drive with the exception of the bolt that holds the spider gear pin in. This I used a 1/4" drive and the pinion nut (1/2" drive)
I have 6 ford econolines and when doing suspension work (rear springs, front radius brackets, bushings) I use 1/2" drive. All of this is done with impact tho and I almost never reach for a 1/2" ratchet. I have my standard length 1/2" ratchet and in the box I have a 22" 1/2" drive ratchet. When I need it, its here. They all have their purpose and it's good to have all of them.
I have 6 ford econolines and when doing suspension work (rear springs, front radius brackets, bushings) I use 1/2" drive. All of this is done with impact tho and I almost never reach for a 1/2" ratchet. I have my standard length 1/2" ratchet and in the box I have a 22" 1/2" drive ratchet. When I need it, its here. They all have their purpose and it's good to have all of them.
shockwave
Well-known member
1/2 for suspension and wheels and crank bolts mostly
3/8 for most anywhere near
1/4 for covers in engine work
I use them all 1/4 mostly due to clearance in tight spots
3/8 for most anywhere near
1/4 for covers in engine work
I use them all 1/4 mostly due to clearance in tight spots
I think 1/2 is a lot more important than 1/4" I use my 1/2 (10-27mm and 3/8"-1") more than my 3/8" in my line of work. I rarely reach for 1/4" and 3/8" just as often as my 1/2", Most of mine is impact witch I suggest you buy if you get 1/2" rather than buying 2 sets.
1/2 drive is stiffer and takes 2-3x the ultimate strength (note its 5-600+ft pounds vs 2-300 in 3/8)
The estensions, ratchet handles, and breaker bars are all stiffer-->transmits more torque without losses from 'spring' action
There are times also on headbolts and what not wher 10, 12mm etc is useful in 1/2 drive for these reasons (or even in 8 or 10mm hex bit).
Also, standard handle ratchets are nice when you are breaking with a bar and torquing to spec, they let you use a lighter set of tools in the field if not working out of a huge box.
Just my $0.02 cents
The estensions, ratchet handles, and breaker bars are all stiffer-->transmits more torque without losses from 'spring' action
There are times also on headbolts and what not wher 10, 12mm etc is useful in 1/2 drive for these reasons (or even in 8 or 10mm hex bit).
Also, standard handle ratchets are nice when you are breaking with a bar and torquing to spec, they let you use a lighter set of tools in the field if not working out of a huge box.
Just my $0.02 cents
On rear wheel drives, I recall that the pinion nut is torqued to some hellacious high number.
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jdlong
Well-known member
When using the feely meely method of torquing, I like to size a ratchet to the torque range I'm working with. Otherwise my senses go to hell. Too easy to over torque things when using a 1/2" ratchet on a 14mm bolt and the recommended torque is 30 ft/lbs. Of course, critical fasteners get a torque wrench. Especially around aluminum castings. None of my ratchets ever see a pipe unless there is no other choice. That's what breaker bars are for.
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It is not really torqued but tightened to set the pinion preload. What you are doing is tightening the inner race of the outer bearing against a crush collar. On 1/2 ton trucks I would use a 1/2" impact (ya, I know this should not be done as it can cause brinelling on the bearing races, I've done hundreds without issues
). On 3/4 and 1 ton trucks I would use a 3x torque multiplier with a 24" breaker bar and still have a hell of a time crushing that thing.That's a big reason I primarily use 1/2 drive tools. My main use for tools is servicing/repairing equipment on my family's farm operation. By going with a 1/2 drive set for my field tool sets I can cover the majority of the fasteners I encounter while keeping my tool box or bag small and light enough to remain portable. It's not always ideal, but usually the stuff I'm working on has enough clearance that 1/2 sockets and ratchets aren't a liability.
Sticks McGee
Well-known member
It is not really torqued but tightened to set the pinion preload. What you are doing is tightening the inner race of the outer bearing against a crush collar. On 1/2 ton trucks I would use a 1/2" impact (ya, I know this should not be done as it can cause brinelling on the bearing races, I've done hundreds without issues
Yes. It's getting the preload by crushing the crush sleeve. Most times you are looking at a spec of turning torque on the yoke (typically in inch lbs)
I use 1/2" quite a bit. But my standard length 1/2 ratchets don't see much use anymore. My 17" long flex head however is fantastic in most cases where 1/2" drive is needed.
Come to think of it, recent tests have shown even cheap 1/2" ratchets can take 6-700 lb/ft of ultimate torque before they fail. This wasn't the case few decades ago. So today the standard length 1/2" drive ratchet usually less than 1' long is an overkill in strength vs length.
Come to think of it, recent tests have shown even cheap 1/2" ratchets can take 6-700 lb/ft of ultimate torque before they fail. This wasn't the case few decades ago. So today the standard length 1/2" drive ratchet usually less than 1' long is an overkill in strength vs length.
Derek420
Banned
You couldn't take of a single lug but on my vehicle with your 3/8 ratchet I bet you'd brake them all lol. I always get them too tight using just a 4 way. I've had to use Jack handle with it to take them off specially after it's been awhile. I remember I had to change a neighbors rear shocks when I was younger and didnt have a 1/2 and broke 3 of my 3/8 ratchets which were good usa ratchets before I got just the back ones off. I worked at a junk yard as well and I had to use mostly 1/2 because most bolts we're so rusted. 1/2 is very important if you are a mechanic you couldn't do much without them. I would bet you 100 bucks for you to try to use 3/8 on some of the stuff I've had to do. You'd be out more than 100 bucks. Get yourself a set and your future self would thank you
thool
Well-known member
I'm an "avid enthusiast" and at my level for ratchets, I use my 3/8" set about 70% of the time, the 1/4" set about 20% of the time.
I don't have a 1/2" drive ratchet set, but do have 1/2" deep socket impacts, a 1/2" air impact wrench, and a 1/2" breaker bar. Between all that and my combination wrenches, I have not yet come across a scenario where I needed a 1/2" ratchet set.
...but if the case comes along, I'll probably start with the ratchet and a couple extensions before dropping coin on sockets with thinner walls.
I don't have a 1/2" drive ratchet set, but do have 1/2" deep socket impacts, a 1/2" air impact wrench, and a 1/2" breaker bar. Between all that and my combination wrenches, I have not yet come across a scenario where I needed a 1/2" ratchet set.
...but if the case comes along, I'll probably start with the ratchet and a couple extensions before dropping coin on sockets with thinner walls.
MovingAlong
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 17, 2013
- Messages
- 1,223
It's nice to be able to use the right tool for the job. Sometimes that's a 1/4" set, sometimes that's a 1/2" set. Could a 3/8" do a lot of those jobs? Of course.. but that doesn't make it the right tool.
Just picked up my first set of 1/2" impact swivel sockets to use dropping a transmission for a clutch job. It made the job a bit easier than fussing with an adapter. Yes they are a luxury, yes I'm glad I had them.
Just picked up my first set of 1/2" impact swivel sockets to use dropping a transmission for a clutch job. It made the job a bit easier than fussing with an adapter. Yes they are a luxury, yes I'm glad I had them.
Slednut
Well-known member
Schurkey
Well-known member
The usual, ordinary 1/2" drive ratchet is a total waste of time, money, and enthusiasm.
If you aren't buying a LONG HANDLED 1/2" drive ratchet, don't bother at all. Any time you need 1/2" drive instead of 3/8" drive, you need the extra leverage the long handle provides.
If you aren't buying a LONG HANDLED 1/2" drive ratchet, don't bother at all. Any time you need 1/2" drive instead of 3/8" drive, you need the extra leverage the long handle provides.
Unless you never use a socket over 3/4 inch, you're short changing yourself by not owning a 1/2 drive. The longer handle gives you more leverage and less straining. Add an 18 inch breaker bar and you'll wonder why you waited so long to buy one.
I own 18" and 24" long 1/2" Mac Tools breaker bars. I also use Snap On S77A 1/2" ratchet adapter if I need more flexibility with these breaker bars. I cannot do a brake job (taking off the brake mounting bolts) without these long 1/2 drive breaker bars as 3/8" breaker bar will flex too much. But for a serpentine belt job, 3/8" breaker bar or ratchet is nice it is narrow.
Kasal
Well-known member
use 1/2 and 1/4 90% of the time. 3/8 are not very common in my country (Spain). But thanks to the garage journal, I now have more tools in 3/8 than in 1/4 and 1/2 boards.
toolaholic
Well-known member
I use my proto 15 inch long 24 tooth black oxide 1/2 and my 18 inch long Armstrong 12-994 locking flex 1/2 when I need 1/2 drive. I really like my craftsman premium 84 tooth 1/2 but it’s 11 inches long same length as my Armstrong 11-994 locking flex head 3/8 ratchet . So I use the 3/8 when I need about 11 inches of leverage.
cgv69
Well-known member
I made it through a large portion of my life using nothing more then 1/4" & 3/8" drive ratchets and sockets but now that I am older, wiser and weaker, I find the added leverage of the 1/2 drive stuff useful and wonder why I waited so long. Work smarter, not harder
Rabid Badger
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 2, 2018
- Messages
- 1,338
A thread from 2010 necro'd in 2016 and dug up again 9 years almost to the day after the first post.
Dates, people. Read them.
Dates, people. Read them.
DaveInPhilly
Active member
We walk a fine line. If someone starts a new thread about a topic that has been discussed before they get hammered with "don't you know how to use the search function" and when someone searches and brings up an old thread they get grief for bringing zombie threads back to life.
I forget which comedian said it, but it reminds of the line: did you ever notice anyone driving slower than you is an idiot and anyone driving faster is an a**hole?
Its all about your perspective.
DaveInPhilly
Active member
I have thought about this a lot. My dad reaches for a 1/2" before anything else. My assumption is that its a generational thing. He grew up and working on big old land yachts. Tons of space to move around so the size of the tool was never much of a concern to him. Now, though, he ends up walking back to the tool box when it won't fit where he needs it to.
I use a 3/8" 85% of the time. My metric set goes from 8mm to 22mm. There's very little that doesn't cover that doesn't require a breaker bar or impact. With an 11" flexhead ratchet, I don't even have a problem doing a brake jobs here in PA.
I use my 1/4 stuff for things that are small and not very tight, or if there is a lot of repetition - like pulling off covers and shields. When I do use 1/2" its because I want to use the 15" ratchet.
I use a 3/8" 85% of the time. My metric set goes from 8mm to 22mm. There's very little that doesn't cover that doesn't require a breaker bar or impact. With an 11" flexhead ratchet, I don't even have a problem doing a brake jobs here in PA.
I use my 1/4 stuff for things that are small and not very tight, or if there is a lot of repetition - like pulling off covers and shields. When I do use 1/2" its because I want to use the 15" ratchet.
Nineeightyone
Well-known member
For me, it just depends where my favorite ratchet of the moment is.
For quite a long time, all I had was 3/8", so I got used to doing everything (and I mean everything) with 3/8 drive. Eventually I expanded, and started using 1/2" more. When I got my Zyklop in 1/2" drive, I used it everywhere I could, because it's just a fantastic ratchet.
These days it's dependent on what I can find the right socket for most rapidly; generally that's 3/8", for anything 10mm to 18mm. Smaller than 10mm I'll opt for 1/4" or larger than 18mm I'll look for the 1/2", but 3/8 is still pretty darn versatile for automotive stuff.
For quite a long time, all I had was 3/8", so I got used to doing everything (and I mean everything) with 3/8 drive. Eventually I expanded, and started using 1/2" more. When I got my Zyklop in 1/2" drive, I used it everywhere I could, because it's just a fantastic ratchet.
These days it's dependent on what I can find the right socket for most rapidly; generally that's 3/8", for anything 10mm to 18mm. Smaller than 10mm I'll opt for 1/4" or larger than 18mm I'll look for the 1/2", but 3/8 is still pretty darn versatile for automotive stuff.