#3 grade lumber in a pole barn?

[Shoester]

I received a quote for a pole barn recently that came in well under what I was expecting. After reviewing the specs, I found that the quote figured #3 Yellow Pine for the girts and purlins, which I'm assuming contributed to the low price. Do you guys see any massive issues with this grade of lumber from a structural standpoint?

 

[ArcReactorKC]

In theory no I don't think it's an issue structurally.

I build sheds almost everyday for one of the largest shed companies in America. EVERYTHING except the siding is #3 wood. In reality I feel like the savings using low grade wood is gone when the labor goes up to install it. #3 looks like it came from a Dr. Suess book, pretty much constantly.

 

[mike93lx]

I wouldn't even know where to buy #3. The #2 **** sold in big box stores has enough knots, twist crown and cupping as -is...I wouldn't want to see worse

 

[johninct]

You need 4 good sides to any piece of lumber in a pole barn. What do you do if the side that you need is bark?

 

[billconner]

I just finished a build with rough sawn. No significant problems. I like the bark. Go for it. I don't think you'll see the difference. There will probably be more wane, and knots larger or looser, but not closer together. There is lminor difference structually.

 

[KenC]

The only place where I'd have concern is the roof purlins. And then only if the design uses wide spans between trusses. 2 ft would be fine IMHO, 4' or more would be a different issue. That said, even 3 can be OK if the installer selects the boards individually for each placement and properly installs and retains them. Warp, twist and wane is not an issue in this use as they can be 'persuaded' into position and nailed down. Knots are a concern on long spans, see above.

3 is common in top and bottom plates around here, and is fine as long as rafters are installed to bear on studs. Rafters, joists, purlins are more critical.