3 Phase and 550V

[Nick M]

I've got a monster swing saw which motor operates on 550v, 3 phase, and is 5 hp. I also have a sweet Dewalt radial arm which operates on 230v, 3 phase, and is 5 hp. These were moved about 10 years ago and only now are ready to be hooked back up, but the new location is regular residential power.

I can read through pages of phase converter stuff on practical machinist, and I probably will soon, but can someone just give me the quick and dirty answer on how these will be powered? My main questions are: will a 5 hp rotary phase converter be enough for the two of these? (they will never be running at the same time), and, will the 230v need to be sent through a transformer to reach 550v After the phase converter for the 550v motor?

Also, will the power company be able to tell what I am doing in there upon startup?

 

[larry_g]

Yes a good 5hp converter will do the job. You will have to transform the power after the converter. Yes the power company can tell what you are doing, but your not doing anything wrong.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[930dreamer]

Hello, be sure to look at 3 phase transformers.

 

[sneezer41]

I think a new motor might be cheaper than the big a** transformer you will need to go up to 550 5 hp

 

[reds]

I've got a monster swing saw which motor operates on 550v, 3 phase, and is 5 hp. I also have a sweet Dewalt radial arm which operates on 230v, 3 phase, and is 5 hp. These were moved about 10 years ago and only now are ready to be hooked back up, but the new location is regular residential power.

I can read through pages of phase converter stuff on practical machinist, and I probably will soon, but can someone just give me the quick and dirty answer on how these will be powered? My main questions are: will a 5 hp rotary phase converter be enough for the two of these? (they will never be running at the same time), and, will the 230v need to be sent through a transformer to reach 550v After the phase converter for the 550v motor?

Also, will the power company be able to tell what I am doing in there upon startup?

The trick is to see if the 550v motor can be rewired to lower voltage. Most 3 phase motors can be rewired inside the box on the motor to run at lower 3 phase voltage.

I just built a RPC (Rotary Phase Converter) for my shop.
Hit the various metal lathe, milling forums and read how to build a 3 phase converter or buy one on line if you can stand the price.

Mine cost me $105 including a used 5 hp motor.

I now can run a 3 phase, 5 hp lathe with no problem.

 

[930dreamer]

I've got a monster swing saw which motor operates on 550v, 3 phase, and is 5 hp. I also have a sweet Dewalt radial arm which operates on 230v, 3 phase, and is 5 hp. These were moved about 10 years ago and only now are ready to be hooked back up, but the new location is regular residential power.

I can read through pages of phase converter stuff on practical machinist, and I probably will soon, but can someone just give me the quick and dirty answer on how these will be powered? My main questions are: will a 5 hp rotary phase converter be enough for the two of these? (they will never be running at the same time), and, will the 230v need to be sent through a transformer to reach 550v After the phase converter for the 550v motor?

Also, will the power company be able to tell what I am doing in there upon startup?

Can you post a picture of the swing saw? 480v motors usually have a lower voltage option but i'd be suprised if a 550V motor does, is it a US motor? Just wondering. Thanks

 

[Nick M]

I can get pictures this week, but the 550v motor is a GE motor, and not original to the saw. It was replaced at one point, but I do believe that the original was also a 550v. The motor plate doesn't state a lower voltage option. I am thinking I may contact the company which this motor was bought from (found out they are still around) and see if they have any lower voltage ones.


I am gaining knowledge of building a RPC, because I will definetely need one for the radial arm, there is no way I could change that motor. How is the setup on yours, a pony motor or capacitors?

 

[930dreamer]

I can get pictures this week, but the 550v motor is a GE motor, and not original to the saw. It was replaced at one point, but I do believe that the original was also a 550v. The motor plate doesn't state a lower voltage option. I am thinking I may contact the company which this motor was bought from (found out they are still around) and see if they have any lower voltage ones.


I am gaining knowledge of building a RPC, because I will definetely need one for the radial arm, there is no way I could change that motor. How is the setup on yours, a pony motor or capacitors?

I built a pony start. I didn't show starting the 10 hp on the left.

 

[swaterbenny]

I'm pretty sure 550v is a Canadian voltage. I think you are gonna wanna look into a new motor.

 

[larry_g]

nick
http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/ph-conv/ph-conv.html

The above link is to the converter that I built some years back and it has been flawless for me. The auto start is perty simple stuff, and extra switch and a cap. If you go up a level on the above link you will find quite a bit of information.


lg
no neat sig line

 

[Nick M]

So I'm snowed in today, but luckily I took pictures last night. Here is the plate on the 550v motor:

UNderneath the "volts" line, I just noticed it says something about 220v? what does that mean? Also, what are FL Amps?

Here is the saw:

And here is the plate on the radial arm's motor:

I have been looking on ebay, and for about $100 you can get a 10hp RPC kit. All that you need is an enclosure, and a idler motor. I think i have some old service panels I could use, and could probably find a motor locally. I am thinking of a 10HP kit because down the road if I find a lathe, bridgeport... etc.

Larry, that is a ton of great info. I quickly looked through it and it answered a few questions I still had. I will look through it more in depth today, Thank you.

 

[nehog]

So I'm snowed in today, but luckily I took pictures last night. Here is the plate on the 550v motor:


UNderneath the "volts" line, I just noticed it says something about 220v? what does that mean? Also, what are FL Amps?

...

The note regarding 220 is not significant as your motor is 550 volts. Ignore that note. (Just means that were this a 220 volt motor, it would run OK on 208 volts).

FL = full load, so FL Amps is the number of amps when fully loaded.

Personally, I think you would be better off with a new motor with a more compatible voltage, 550 volts in a non-commercial/industrial environment isn't a great idea IMHO.

 

[mrb]

Here is the saw:

somewhere in the south, an executioner is wondering where his machine went....


I would stay away from anything over 240v in a home shop. In the higher voltage ranges you have alot more danger, plus the equipment for these voltages from plugs and connectors to starters and disconnects is ALOT more expensive. The cost of a new 600v 3ph disconnect switch would probably get you a replacement 5hp motor.

 

[Norcal]

somewhere in the south, an executioner is wondering where his machine went....


I would stay away from anything over 240v in a home shop. In the higher voltage ranges you have alot more danger, plus the equipment for these voltages from plugs and connectors to starters and disconnects is ALOT more expensive. The cost of a new 600v 3ph disconnect switch would probably get you a replacement 5hp motor.

I agree, 480 & 600 volt equipment is not for novices, a replacement motor will be cheaper then a 240V to 600V transformer.

 

[larry_g]

Nick
What I see important there is the frame number. That number will get you a replacement motor that is physically the same size. Search out motor frame size or look here

http://www.motorsanddrives.com/cowern/motorterms2.html also look at the two figures linked to at the bottom of the page. With frame size you then choose the voltage you want and other options. It looks as yours is a 254 but it may have sufixis that are obliterated. You may have to use the link to determine whatthey may be. Good luck

lg
no neat sig line