3 phase bandsaw. Single phase garage. Best solution?

[HoosierBuddy]

Guys,

I hate to keep dribbling in information, but I just got the motor out and got some pics of the control electronics. I’m not sure what I’m looking at here. Way more than an on/off switch!

 

[HoosierBuddy]

This is the box cover.

 

[exmaxima1]

Guys,

I hate to keep dribbling in information, but I just got the motor out and got some pics of the control electronics. I’m not sure what I’m looking at here. Way more than an on/off switch!

Looks like a magnetic starter with overloads, and a step-down transformer. Pretty common I would think....

 

[alfadan]

I guess it would depend on the amp draw as the VFD doesn't know HP, just amps. The Teco L510 120 volt is will do 4.3 amps out. If your 1.5 HP motor has a lower amp draw than that it should work. The only other issue is amp draw in the 120 volt side

When I bought my two L510s, the 240v was about 20 bucks cheaper than the 120v. Less current input neccessary for the circuit components to reach rated hp was my guess.

 

[PoorUB]

When I bought my two L510s, the 240v was about 20 bucks cheaper than the 120v. Less current input neccessary for the circuit components to reach rated hp was my guess.

Popularity, possibly?

 

[PoorUB]

Guys,

I hate to keep dribbling in information, but I just got the motor out and got some pics of the control electronics. I’m not sure what I’m looking at here. Way more than an on/off switch!

Looks like a magnetic starter with overloads, and a step-down transformer. Pretty common I would think....

Yup. Mag starter. If you go with a VFD, rip it out!
A magnetic starter has the contactor to run the motor and an overload to trip the contactor if the motor over amps. I VFD serves the same purpose, and more.

 

[Dave Bonzo]

5 HP on a PM1200? Wow! I never have any power issues with the 1 HP!

I'm excited to see what it'll do.

I don't know if you will find a 120 volt in that would run 1.5 HP.

We couldn't!

 

[CallumRD1]

I'm excited to see what it'll do.



We couldn't!

The KBAC 27D and KBDA 27D will take 120V in and out put enough three phase power for 1.5 hp on 120V in or 2 hp on 240V in.

 

[Dave Bonzo]

The KBAC 27D and KBDA 27D will take 120V in and out put enough three phase power for 1.5 hp on 120V in or 2 hp on 240V in.

I don't know enough about it to either confirm or deny these allegations...but I'm thinking that the place I went simply might not carry that particular model. We ended up going with a unit that is rated for a 2HP motor; there seems to be little harm in a slight oversize.

 

[PoorUB]

I don't know enough about it to either confirm or deny these allegations...but I'm thinking that the place I went simply might not carry that particular model. We ended up going with a unit that is rated for a 2HP motor; there seems to be little harm in a slight oversize.

I ran a 1 HP motor with a 10 HP VFD for years. The motor or VFD doesn't care. The only issue is motor protection. With a machine that didn't run unless I was standing there I figured it didn't matter.

Again, as to VFD sizing forget HP and look at amps. As long as the motor amp draw is less than the upper end of the VFD it will be fine.

 

[HoosierBuddy]

Again, everyone, thanks for jumping in on this issue.

I've picked a direction.

I've ordered a TECO L510 series VFD rated for 120V input and 0-230 V output. I got one that will handle up to 1 HP.

The existing 1/2 HP 3 Phase Marathon Electric motor shown in my pictures above is disassembled, cleaned and waiting on new bearings to arrive (ordered them last night).

After the old motor is refurbed, I'll install it, along with the VFD, in the saw. If I have power issues with the saw, I'll upgrade the motor to a 3/4 or 1 HP in the future.

While waiting on parts, I'm working on fabbing up a rolling base for the saw out of 1 X 3" rectangular tubing and some HD casters I had left over from another project. Fortunately, I still have a small Jet V/H bandsaw to cut the steel with to build the base.

Thanks again, and look for another post when I get the saw up and running!

Phil

 

[Damon L.]

I am running my Delta 14" bandsaw on a VFD. I rarely change the speed, but the slow ramp up helps with the inrush current. I prefer 3 phase motors over the equivalent single phase myself.

 

[tool_scrounge]

While waiting on parts, I'm working on fabbing up a rolling base for the saw out of 1 X 3" rectangular tubing and some HD casters I had left over from another project.

That bandsaw is 400+ pounds in weight with a small footprint. Make sure you use quality caters. I am leery of no name import caster load ratings personally.

 

[HoosierBuddy]

That bandsaw is 400+ pounds in weight with a small footprint. Make sure you use quality caters. I am leery of no name import caster load ratings personally.

I hear ya.

I'm also worried about fastening the casters to the 1 X 3 (1/8" wall) tubing in a way that doesn't allow the mounting holes to "wallow out",

What I've come up with is using some solid 1 X 3 X 2 blocks of flat bar to make a cap on each end of the tubing. Then I drilled and tapped each of those 3/8-16 full depth. The casters have 1" long 3/8-16 studs...so those screw into these blocks I'm talking about.

In the previous project I used these casters on (table saw)....I had them just mounted to the sheet metal feet of the table saw legs and they did fail....because the sheet metal "feet" of the table saw bent upwards. I feel like if I can mount the casters solidly, they'll be OK.

If not, I can buy better casters and screw them into the base.

I'm also drilling/tapping those same blocks horizontally so I can screw in 4 eye bolts to lift the saw from if needed. Something like that would have been way handier than what I had to go through to get it out of the back of my truck, with no help, get the skid out from under it, and get the saw set onto my hydraulic lift table. Again...by myself. Great fun.

 

[tool_scrounge]

I hear ya.

I'm also worried about fastening the casters to the 1 X 3 (1/8" wall) tubing in a way that doesn't allow the mounting holes to "wallow out",

What I've come up with is using some solid 1 X 3 X 2 blocks of flat bar to make a cap on each end of the tubing. Then I drilled and tapped each of those 3/8-16 full depth. The casters have 1" long 3/8-16 studs...so those screw into these blocks I'm talking about.

In the previous project I used these casters on (table saw)....I had them just mounted to the sheet metal feet of the table saw legs and they did fail....because the sheet metal "feet" of the table saw bent upwards. I feel like if I can mount the casters solidly, they'll be OK.

If not, I can buy better casters and screw them into the base.

I'm also drilling/tapping those same blocks horizontally so I can screw in 4 eye bolts to lift the saw from if needed. Something like that would have been way handier than what I had to go through to get it out of the back of my truck, with no help, get the skid out from under it, and get the saw set onto my hydraulic lift table. Again...by myself. Great fun.

Is this what you are proposing for the lifting eye bolt? One side only shown due to my laziness...

 

[HoosierBuddy]

Is this what you are proposing for the lifting eye bolt? One side only shown due to my laziness...

Yes. Awkward as hell even with a properly made sling, but way preferable to lifting from the table, where you'd be loading the trunion joint. Found a tale of woe online about someone that broke their 143 doing that.

 

[alfadan]

May try to come up with a retractable caster setup.

 

[tool_scrounge]

Yes. Awkward as hell even with a properly made sling, but way preferable to lifting from the table, where you'd be loading the trunion joint. Found a tale of woe online about someone that broke their 143 doing that.

1) Eye bolts are really meant to lift in perfectly vertical orientations. They usually will break if the load is not in-line with the thread.
2) If you are lifting from the bottom, it will be unstable and want to tip over since the lifting point is below the center of gravity. Since it is a solid casting, you might consider lifting from the bottom of the main casting. But you need to make sure you loop the lift rated loop strap so it cannot slide sideways. Sorry for the crude sketch. If you are worried about bending the sheet metal, open the door and then place the straps on the casting only.

 

[ez-duzit]

Is this what you are proposing for the lifting eye bolt? One side only shown due to my laziness...

Install the eye vertically--never horizontally.

 

[HoosierBuddy]

Good point on the eye bolt. I'll fab up some vertical brackets if needed. Something like you use to hook an engine hoist to an engine.

Or wrap a strap around like tool_scrounge suggests.