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3 Way pull switch?

Alchymist

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Looking for a 3 way switch - pull chain style -

Found those used for fan/light combinations - anyone know the ratings on these or where I can find a 15 amp rated version?
 
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Alchymist

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113 views and no replies? :headscrat

:D:D OK, I want to install a sub panel in my garage, backfeed from a generator, and install PVC air lines. Do I need to conform to any codes?:D:D
 

Torque1st

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The 3-way switch itself should have ratings on it. Otherwise an internet search may find a switch. I would look at my local GOOD hardware store and a few electrical distributors in the area. Here in KC that would be:
Strasser Hardware
Electronic Supply
Grainger
Rensenhouse
etc.

Go to Home Depot for your PVC....
 

FrankTheTank88

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Looking for a 3 way switch - pull chain style -

Found those used for fan/light combinations - anyone know the ratings on these or where I can find a 15 amp rated version?

What exactly are u trying to do? I may be able to help but need more info
 

Stuart in MN

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A quick google search on '3 way pull switch' pulled up a number of possibilities, but they were only 3 amp or 6 amp. An explanation of your application may help.
 

malibu101

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Yeah. You might be asking about 2 different animals.
A 3-way switch, as in used with another 3-way switch to control a light from 2 different locations.

Is a different animal than-

A switch that can control 2 loads like a light and fan. I don't know exactly what you would call this type of switch.
 
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Alchymist

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What exactly are u trying to do? I may be able to help but need more info

A quick google search on '3 way pull switch' pulled up a number of possibilities, but they were only 3 amp or 6 amp. An explanation of your application may help.

Yeah. You might be asking about 2 different animals.
A 3-way switch, as in used with another 3-way switch to control a light from 2 different locations.

Is a different animal than-

A switch that can control 2 loads like a light and fan. I don't know exactly what you would call this type of switch.
What exactly are u trying to do? I may be able to help but need more info

A quick google search on '3 way pull switch' pulled up a number of possibilities, but they were only 3 amp or 6 amp. An explanation of your application may help.

Yeah. You might be asking about 2 different animals.
A 3-way switch, as in used with another 3-way switch to control a light from 2 different locations.

Is a different animal than-

A switch that can control 2 loads like a light and fan. I don't know exactly what you would call this type of switch.

DPST maybe?

Application is simple. I have rolling shelves, and want to put one light socket above each bay, 7 total, all on one circuit. At one end, a standard 3 way toggle switch, at the other end a 3 way pull switch with a cord hanging from the ceiling. Reason I asked is I doubt the ones I found on Google or elsewhere would carry the load, at least not for long. 600-700 watts on a 3 amp switch won't cut it, especially incandescent lamps.

Yes, a three way switch is just a SPDT switch, I need a pull chain version of a 3 way wall switch.
 

malibu101

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Yes, a three way switch is just a SPDT switch, I need a pull chain version of a 3 way wall switch.

Fully understand.
Unfortunatly, I've never seen such a thing.
Good luck in your search!

Or worst case, use the switches to control a relay that can handle the load. :dunno:
 
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Alchymist

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no where to make a drop with some pipe and add 4 ways in between?

Lights will only be on when going into the shelves, so all on one circuit. One end comes up to a wall, so wall switch works. Other end is at the end of the shelf tracks, currently open to the rest of the garage, so a pull cord should work ok. Plans call for wall to be added later, so it's just a matter of taking the switch out and dropping a 3 wire down the new wall to a wall switch. Not sure what a 4 way in between would do for me.
 

FrankTheTank88

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Ok.... sooo... u have a line of shelves with lights above or in each one... u want to be able to turn on only the light in that shelf? But to be able to turn them all off when u leave. Or do u wana be able to turn on all of them anywhere u are in these shelves. Just trying to fully understand, i have an idea in my head i just wana make sure it suits your needs
 
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Alchymist

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There are 6 ROLLING shelves on tracks, with space for 7. To access any one, you roll the others aside. There will be a light above each "bay", so all shelves and the "space" will have a light above it, and the "space will be illuminated. The two lights on either side of the "space" will illuminate the open space somewhat also. All lights are to be on at once. One end of the rolling shelves comes up against a wall, so a standard 3 way wall switch will be used. On the other end is where the 3 way pull switch is needed, A box at ceiling level would contain the switch, activated by chain and string. Boils down to needing a 3 way switch (SPDT) that is chain activated, mounted in a octagon box with adequate current ratings.
 
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FrankTheTank88

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Not really just wondering if it was feasible... here is what i was thinking.....

Take a metal 1900 box (4"x4") with a blank plate on it that has a 3/4" knock out it. Get a cord "chinese finger trap" and hang a piece of 14-4 or 12-4 SJO cord(depending on the amperage of the breaker) from it with slack enough so u can mount a small "handy" or utility box (2"x3") or another 1900 box to one of the rolling shelves and bring the cord into the bottom of the box with another cord strain relief. This will allow you to install a regular 3 way switch in there and allow you to access it where there is no wall but still allow you to roll the shelves. Just leave enough slack. In the cord. Kinda like how robots have cords hanging around their moveable joints.

What do u think?

Or a light switch in the ceiling with a hole drilled in it and some extreme rube golburg device to flip switch on and off..... haha
 
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Alchymist

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Not really just wondering if it was feasible... here is what i was thinking.....

Take a metal 1900 box (4"x4") with a blank plate on it that has a 3/4" knock out it. Get a cord "chinese finger trap" and hang a piece of 14-4 or 12-4 SJO cord(depending on the amperage of the breaker) from it with slack enough so u can mount a small "handy" or utility box (2"x3") or another 1900 box to one of the rolling shelves and bring the cord into the bottom of the box with another cord strain relief. This will allow you to install a regular 3 way switch in there and allow you to access it where there is no wall but still allow you to roll the shelves. Just leave enough slack. In the cord. Kinda like how robots have cords hanging around their moveable joints.

What do u think?

Or a light switch in the ceiling with a hole drilled in it and some extreme rube golburg device to flip switch on and off..... haha

Guess I could mount the switch on the last shelf in line and allow enough slack, the shelf only moves about 3 feet. Seems like a lot of messin around when a simple switch would work so well and be cheaper to boot.

OMG!!!!!! Did he just say, "PVC air lines?" You're going to get it now!
Ha - you missed the part about backfeeding ....:evil:
 

FrankTheTank88

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It may be cheaper, but in the years doin the trade i have never seen one and you said the one you found wasn't rated for enough amps... so, was just trying to get you another option.
 

kursplat

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try THIS PLACE. i've delt with them before, very helpful. i'd call them to figure out what you want to do

how about some pics of your shelving?
 
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Alchymist

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Have you considered a motion/heat detecting switch instead of the chain sw? That can handle 15A loads...
Might work, but I only want lights on when accessing shelves, any detector that would turn the lights on would most likely see me when in other parts of the garage.

Not really just wondering if it was feasible... here is what i was thinking.....

Take a metal 1900 box (4"x4") with a blank plate on it that has a 3/4" knock out it. Get a cord "chinese finger trap" and hang a piece of 14-4 or 12-4 SJO cord(depending on the amperage of the breaker) from it with slack enough ....
Or a light switch in the ceiling with a hole drilled in it and some extreme rube golburg device to flip switch on and off..... haha

Still thinking about dropping a flexible cord from ceiling box to box on top of end shelf, then conduit down shelf.

Could also mount a wall switch on ceiling, drill small hole thru handle, and drop two strings (thanks Rube).


??? Ummm.... what??? Im lost

He was referring to my original post and tongue in cheek remark about PVC.

It may be cheaper, but in the years doin the trade i have never seen one and you said the one you found wasn't rated for enough amps... so, was just trying to get you another option.
I know, never seen one either. Must be made out of unobtanium.....I did have some lever actuated limit switches around - one of them might work. Other than that, I'v been in the electrical/electronics trades for many years, and have a shelves full of "stuff". I'll find something to work somehow......never easy.

try THIS PLACE. i've delt with them before, very helpful. i'd call them to figure out what you want to do

how about some pics of your shelving?

Thanks to everyone for all the help and suggestions.....pics will come later - leaving for Assateague Island with the RV for 2 weeks. Will get some when I return. Here's a teaser:
 

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kursplat

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Thanks to everyone for all the help and suggestions.....pics will come later - leaving for Assateague Island with the RV for 2 weeks. Will get some when I return. Here's a teaser:

looks like he's taking the shelving to have something to do on the trip :bowdown:
 

Steevo

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It would be easier to just wire a motion detector in the vicinity of the shelves to turn the light on when someone/something moves.
 

Outlawmws

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Might work, but I only want lights on when accessing shelves, any detector that would turn the lights on would most likely see me when in other parts of the garage.

It would be easier to just wire a motion detector in the vicinity of the shelves to turn the light on when someone/something moves.

See first response post 23. :sad:

You can give the motion detectors "tunnel vision" pretty easily. In fact sometime it happens inadvertently!

I struggled with my second motion detector nor "seeing" me until I was near on top of it for years, then I mounted another storage cab and it was 10X worse. so I added an extension box and got it (and an added outlet) so I get "seen" the instant I turn the corner to that wall.


attachment.php


It's still about 1/2" shy of the cabinet, but when it was 4" further back it was VERY selective about when I came on...
 

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