30' x 63' Build/Rebuild

[aort11]

There was a 30x45x10 shed on our property when we bought it. It has two 9x9 overhead doors and a 10' sliding door on it. I am adding 18' on to the back of the building, removing the sliding door and adding two 10x9 doors where the old ones were. I moved some other things around and added some windows and an 18" overhang. It isn't quite done yet, but here are some pictures so far.

Clearing some brush

Here are a few of the inside before it was cleaned out.

 

[aort11]

I got a new electrical panel put it for my meter, transfer switch and disconnects.

Then I started getting the addition added on to the rear.

Then added the overhang to the front.

I got a new roof on the whole thing due to old skylights and making everything line up. I'll use the old metal on the inside.

The inside was then cleaned out and leveled.

Two new posts went in the front to widen the doors to 10'.

 

[aort11]

I used tyvek to wrap the whole thing before the metal siding was put up.

Some pictures of the metal going up.

I made a jig to cut my soffit and got all of the trim finished up.

The attention was then on the floor and where I currently am. I have done everything on my own with help from my dad or a friend when necessary. I am waiting for the concrete to go in and that is hopefully going to happen next week. There will be more detail about the inside once that happens.

 

[captain14]

Does this remodel Open the entire length up inside? Or will there be separate rooms?

 

[aort11]

Does this remodel Open the entire length up inside? Or will there be separate rooms?

The shop portion will be 30x36. Then there is a 10x14 storage area attached to the main shop area with an 8x8 overhead door for the mower, tiller, shovels etc. Then the rest of the addition will just be extra space for an office, hang out area, etc. There will be a wall separating the three sections.

 

[aort11]

Here is a layout of the building. There will be walk in doors to each section that is divided off of the main 30 x 36 section.

 

[aort11]

The concrete came early on Saturday morning. I got 5" (~19.5 yards) of 4000 psi mix. It was a little chilly and somewhat humid so it took a little while for it to setup, but it is drying nice and slow so it should benefit in the end.

Sunday the floor was cut and we decided to get the doors on to at least get the building sealed up because the birds started to make a home inside. I still need to get the upper tracks on the two bigger doors.

 

[Transcraft]

looks nice

 

[Jo Diesel]

You going to put vapor barrier then steel on cieling and Spray Foam?

 

[aort11]

You going to put vapor barrier then steel on cieling and Spray Foam?

I'm going to do R-19 bats in the walls. Then on the ceiling I'm going to put a plastic vapor barrier on before I attach the steel. Then I'm most likely going to blow fiberglass in up there to ~R50.

 

[levimorris85]

Awesome job. Subd

 

[yaidunno]

Great project you've got. It's amazing how much roof overhangs add to the appearance of a building.

 

[aort11]

Great project you've got. It's amazing how much roof overhangs add to the appearance of a building.

I thought the same thing. It was only about 2 days extra work and I think it really makes a difference.

 

[aort11]

With it getting light later and dark earlier I got some temporary lighting in. I also started insulating the walls and got the wall girts up. I also got the interior wall up and placed the electrical panel. I'm waiting to schedule a time for the switch over with the power company to my new panel.

I was just waiting until the end to fill in the squares where it ran short.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Will you put in-floor heat in the yet to be poured section of the floor ? Are you using a wood or gas fired boiler for the heat ?

Be proud, you've already made a huge difference in that place.

 

[aort11]

Will you put in-floor heat in the yet to be poured section of the floor ? Are you using a wood or gas fired boiler for the heat ?

Be proud, you've already made a huge difference in that place.

The area yet to be poured is going to be a lounge area, so I don't think I'm going to put floor heat in. I am thinking of using a mini split system so I could also put a wall unit in the shop side for A/C.

As far as the floor heat I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet. It is only 1200 sq foot and I currently don't have any gas on the property as the house is geothermal. With the size and good insulation I'm really looking at the 10kw hydro shark boiler. It would be about $2000-2500 more to get an LP tank, gas boiler and install, etc. I'm thinking that would take quite a while to make up the difference when it is only going to run for 3-4 months a year.

 

[CNGsaves]

Awesome transformation on the shop . . . +1 LOVE the overhangs !!

Have you considered Solar ?? With that big roof, it would be an easy install. Might be a good compliment to your geothermal with propane as backup.

 

[Jo Diesel]

I have always wondered how solar would work on in floor heat. You only need to raise the water temp, not make it hot and it is such a large heat sink to store the heat. I think it should make a large difference at a relative low cost.

 

[aort11]

With the hydro shark being about $475, I'd say that is my cheapest up front cost to get the floor going. Solar would definitely benefit in the long run, but I can imagine the initial cost would be a hard one to make up just like the propane.

 

[rpenterics]

Got any detail pictures of adding the overhangs on the long walls? Gable ends look pretty straight forward. Would really like to do this with my shop when I get the time.

Your place is looking great!

 

[burger]

How did you install the R-19 batts? Looks like the posts are 8' apart... to what did you staple the flaps? Just curious as I have been building stud walls between my posts for insulation and have been wondering if there isn't an easier/cheaper way.

 

[aort11]

Got any detail pictures of adding the overhangs on the long walls? Gable ends look pretty straight forward. Would really like to do this with my shop when I get the time.

Your place is looking great!

I just added some 4' long 2x4 on top of the trusses perpendicular to the perlins with a 4/12 angle cut on the end. I then measured out for my 18" (16.5" accounting for the 2x6 that would get attached to the front of it) overhang on each end and then ran a string from one end to the other. Then I just placed the rest of my overhang boards on the rest of the trusses and butted them up to the string.

This is the best view I had of what it looks like.

Then I just nailed up a 2x6 to the 2x4 extending off of the trusses.

 

[aort11]

How did you install the R-19 batts? Looks like the posts are 8' apart... to what did you staple the flaps? Just curious as I have been building stud walls between my posts for insulation and have been wondering if there isn't an easier/cheaper way.

They are 9' centers. So I used 4 x 23" wide batts and 1 x 15" wide. I wrapped the kraft face behind the top 2x4 and stapled it to the top to hold it. After I put the inside girts on, I thought about adding a little block between the inside and outside ones, but I may not need to do it on all of them. They are pretty sturdy the way they are. I think I'm just going to tape the seams of the insulation. You lose 1.5" wall space on each side, but I think this was the easiest/cheapest way to go about it.

 

[burger]

They are 9' centers. So I used 4 x 23" wide batts and 1 x 15" wide. I wrapped the kraft face behind the top 2x4 and stapled it to the top to hold it. After I put the inside girts on, I thought about adding a little block between the inside and outside ones, but I may not need to do it on all of them. They are pretty sturdy the way they are. I think I'm just going to tape the seams of the insulation. You lose 1.5" wall space on each side, but I think this was the easiest/cheapest way to go about it.

Thanks for the explanation!

 

[rpenterics]

I just added some 4' long 2x4 on top of the trusses perpendicular to the perlins with a 4/12 angle cut on the end. I then measured out for my 18" (16.5" accounting for the 2x6 that would get attached to the front of it) overhang on each end and then ran a string from one end to the other. Then I just placed the rest of my overhang boards on the rest of the trusses and butted them up to the string.

This is the best view I had of what it looks like.

Then I just nailed up a 2x6 to the 2x4 extending off of the trusses.

I see now, dont think mine will be quite that simple unfortunately.

 

[aort11]

I didn't get a whole lot done over the weekend, but there is progress.

I got the trench dug for the electric and got it hooked up. That conduit sticking up will be for an RV panel I haven't had a chance to mount yet.

I also got the two man doors framed up in the divider wall.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I just added some 4' long 2x4 on top of the trusses perpendicular to the perlins with a 4/12 angle cut on the end. I then measured out for my 18" (16.5" accounting for the 2x6 that would get attached to the front of it) overhang on each end and then ran a string from one end to the other. Then I just placed the rest of my overhang boards on the rest of the trusses and butted them up to the string.

This is the best view I had of what it looks like.

Then I just nailed up a 2x6 to the 2x4 extending off of the trusses.

WOW, I saw the overhangs on the gable ends but I missed this detail. Job well done and it looks extremely nice.

 

[aort11]

I got the RV panel mounted yesterday.

 

[aort11]

The PoCo came and got my new meterbase hooked up today. I got the new feed to the house hooked up while they worked and we finished around the same time. So now I have all my power running through my new panel and power to the shop!

 

[aort11]

With power in the barn I got a security light mounted up at the peak. Twice actually.

I tried an LED just because it looked like a viable option.

It was this light:

All Pro 33 Watt LED Light

Here it is mounted

Just a few observations. It was smaller than I thought and it sort of looked out of place on that big of a barn. It did light surprisingly well, but not enough for what I was looking for. It would probably be better suited on a smaller building or on a pole. It was rated around 5,000 sq ft and 3100 lumens.

Option two is the one I had originally picked out. It is this one:

Cooper 100 Watt Metal Halide

Here it is at night, I didn't get a picture of it during the day.

Needless to say, that one has plenty of light. I think the specs on that one are 22,000 to 31,000 sq ft and 8,000 to 16,000 lumens. The LED was very close to meeting my needs, but just not quite there yet. Not knocking the light, it just wasn't right for this application.

 

[Spyider]

wow that second one is nice and bright.. i'm looking for a nice light for my garage also. perhaps i found it haha.

 

[aort11]

Here is a picture of the main light over the doors in the daylight

I also put a smaller wall light over the man door. It is a 25 watt LED made by SLG. It lights things up pretty well.

Here it is on

 

[Motoman1100]

Love the thread! Great work on everything and I have to say I love seeing the little Kubota hard at work around your place. I have one and that thing is a work horse! I think my wife uses it more than I do.

Anyway, I'm subscribed!

Happy Thanksgiving

Alan

 

[aort11]

Love the thread! Great work on everything and I have to say I love seeing the little Kubota hard at work around your place. I have one and that thing is a work horse! I think my wife uses it more than I do.

Anyway, I'm subscribed!

Happy Thanksgiving

Alan

They sure do come in handy. Thanks a lot!