I a, in the beginning stages of building a garage. It is going to be built in norther wisconsin. Shawano area. It is a lake house so I won't be there alll the time. I am limited to 1200 sqft The side walls can only be 10ft high measured from the slab. With a ridge height of 20ft I am considering a Garage from menards. has anyone build one before? Should I use 2x6 for the walls? Or 2x4 as the plan shows? What type of heat is best? I only need to keep it above freezing during the winter and warm on the weekends when I'm there. My concrete contractor said not to use radiant floor heat because I would be giving up the geo thermal properties because of the insulation under the concrete. Thoughts? I need to basically store a boat and some watercraft and snowmobiles. What type of garage doors should I use. 3 single doors? 1 double and one single? Or 2 smaller doubles? Any input would be helpful as I'm sure I'm forgetting a ton of stuff.
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30x40 garage build.
- Thread starter Rocket150
- Start date
matt_i
Well-known member
Lets consider this for just a minute. Why do you even have to keep it above freezing at all...the only reason I see is you don't want to winterize your watercraft...which seems reasonable. But consider that's probably what, 8 hours of labor if you are going slow? Vs a couple hundred dollars in heat over the winter for the privilege of not having to undo some hose clamps. Not trying to bust your chops but analyze all angles.
That said, if you do intend to heat to 35F setpoint, I agree that under-slab insulation is not helpful. Natural gas heat is going to be cheapest. I would use the 2x6 framing and go with Roxul insulation.
What are you planning to do upstairs? Basic 4:12 roof with no attic and "W" shaped trusses or are you going attic storage trusses or trying to build a 12:12 roof and a room upstairs?
Also consider you may need some type of remote monitoring. If you lose power your furnace can't run and the temps will drop, and you wouldn't even realize that until the next trip.
That said, if you do intend to heat to 35F setpoint, I agree that under-slab insulation is not helpful. Natural gas heat is going to be cheapest. I would use the 2x6 framing and go with Roxul insulation.
What are you planning to do upstairs? Basic 4:12 roof with no attic and "W" shaped trusses or are you going attic storage trusses or trying to build a 12:12 roof and a room upstairs?
Also consider you may need some type of remote monitoring. If you lose power your furnace can't run and the temps will drop, and you wouldn't even realize that until the next trip.
spudley
Well-known member
If you go with 10' sidewalls, your height limit means you can not exceed an 8/12 pitch on a 30' wide bldg. That still gives you about a 10'-12' wide attic room with 6' headroom if that's in your plan. Might want to sketch some heights on graph paper.
I'm a little north of you (between Mountain and Pound) and I'd recommend you use a local lumber yard in Shawano or my favorite, Oconto County Lumber in Oconto Falls. Much better quality than anything at Menards and they'll deliver for minimal ($10) trip charge.
For heat radiant is great, if you plan on leaving it on all winter. I'm in the same situation as you as I don't live where I built my garage, so I'm using a modine type 60K BTU Ng unit to heat a 24' x 40'. But I'm having serious second thoughts on not putting in radiant.
For wall framing I used 2x6 on 16" ctrs. 2 doors, one 18' x 8', one 9' x 8', both insulated. If you fall and land hard on your head and use Menards, upgrade the garage doors. (their pkgs include the cheapest stuff they have)
And don't let anyone talk you into 8' wide doors unless you drive only Fiats.
Good Luck
I'm a little north of you (between Mountain and Pound) and I'd recommend you use a local lumber yard in Shawano or my favorite, Oconto County Lumber in Oconto Falls. Much better quality than anything at Menards and they'll deliver for minimal ($10) trip charge.
For heat radiant is great, if you plan on leaving it on all winter. I'm in the same situation as you as I don't live where I built my garage, so I'm using a modine type 60K BTU Ng unit to heat a 24' x 40'. But I'm having serious second thoughts on not putting in radiant.
For wall framing I used 2x6 on 16" ctrs. 2 doors, one 18' x 8', one 9' x 8', both insulated. If you fall and land hard on your head and use Menards, upgrade the garage doors. (their pkgs include the cheapest stuff they have)
And don't let anyone talk you into 8' wide doors unless you drive only Fiats.
Good Luck
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
What type of heat is best? I only need to keep it above freezing during the winter and warm on the weekends when I'm there.
Radiant in-floor heat is great, but this isn't the best application...it takes quite a while to heat up from one temperature level to another, it's much better at keeping a constant temperature all the time.
I'm curious as well as to whether it needs to be heated all the time, if you're only there on weekends. If gas is available, a unit heater like a Big Maxx or similar, would be a better choice for heating it up relatively quickly.
matt_i
Well-known member
And don't let anyone talk you into 8' wide doors unless you drive only Fiats.
This is very good advice. Many boat trailers are 8'6" (102" wide) or thereabouts, so they will not even fit into an 8' wide door and even a 9' wide door is very dicey with 3" of clearance each side.....10' wide would be best for at least the bay you are going to store your boat in mostly.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
Use 2x6 walls with scissor trusses. I was limited to a 4/12 pitch to keep me within height limits in my area by which I was 3" over but passed. I was a 28' wide, so I imagine that at 30' wide, you'd be within.
Ok I'm back with more questions. Is a 5 inch concrete slab worth the extra money? Should I just use my local lumber company for trusses or find a truss manufacturer locally and see if they will work directly with me? I would like to put floor drains in as well. There are a couple different styles of drains. A long trough that runs the length or just have one in each bay? Steel roofing or asphalt shingles? I have also decided that winter will never end so I'll never actually start to build this thing. Lol One more question. My driveway is dirt sand mix. Is it worth it to pour an apron in front of the garage doors? Thanks for any advice.
matt_i
Well-known member
Imo if you are pouring a 4inch Minimum then i think you'll be OK. Extra thickness for big loads past what's normally parked in a residential garage. The tough part is verifying, it can only be done prior to the pour, examining the forms and the stone base, and I think the only way to truly assess is with a rotating laser level.
I would say that working directly with a truss company would be great and save the markup of another layer if they do retail sales. They may not, and even if they do they may have terms like cash or check whereas a lumber yard might take a credit card for convenience. Also you have a little better leverage in customer service when working with a lumber yard in my experience.
Whatever drain you choose you have to slope the floor towards it to work without a squeegee.
The roofing thing is primarily your preference. I like shingles personally. Easy to install with minimal tools and the architectural versions are 30 year shingles that you can count on for a lifespan close to that. Don't forget ice + water shield and I recommend synthetic woven underlayment instead of the old tar/felt paper. 5 nails per shingle takes slightly longer but then you never worry in a storm. They must NOT be "high nailed" as then the nails don't capture the shingle underneath it and you will lose them here and there.
I'd pour the apron because it will keep your building cleaner after a rainstorm, no dirty splash.
I would say that working directly with a truss company would be great and save the markup of another layer if they do retail sales. They may not, and even if they do they may have terms like cash or check whereas a lumber yard might take a credit card for convenience. Also you have a little better leverage in customer service when working with a lumber yard in my experience.
Whatever drain you choose you have to slope the floor towards it to work without a squeegee.
The roofing thing is primarily your preference. I like shingles personally. Easy to install with minimal tools and the architectural versions are 30 year shingles that you can count on for a lifespan close to that. Don't forget ice + water shield and I recommend synthetic woven underlayment instead of the old tar/felt paper. 5 nails per shingle takes slightly longer but then you never worry in a storm. They must NOT be "high nailed" as then the nails don't capture the shingle underneath it and you will lose them here and there.
I'd pour the apron because it will keep your building cleaner after a rainstorm, no dirty splash.
bad_idea
Well-known member
Pour the apron. I currently have no apron, still building and haven't gotten there. Getting in and out of the garage is becoming a nuisance as there is a curb now where the slab meets the dirt. Rain washes that area away, car traffic tears it up.
Buy your trusses directly from the truss company. I saved $360 by going directly to the truss company over buying at the lumber yard.
If it is just for the storage you said, I would go with standard trusses and save the money. A second floor is additional cost. Scissor trusses are a headache to install - they require additional framing methods that cost more time ($$) to accomplish.
I recommend a cinder block stem wall at least 2 rows of block high and then frame your walls on that. It will be cheaper to frame as you can then frame a 8' wall on top of the cinder block. It will also get your framing that much higher up from the soil. If it ever floods the framing will stay dry. You also will not have to worry about surface run off running under the bottom plate of the wall into the garage.
2x6 walls are better if you plan to insulate it - more room for insulation. 2x4 is sufficient if the cost is a concern.
I would install (2) 10' wide x 9' high doors in the gable end 2' from each side w/ 6' between the doors. Cheaper to install doors in the gable end as gable walls are not load bearing. Also better for the snow running off the roof - it will not block the doors.
Buy your trusses directly from the truss company. I saved $360 by going directly to the truss company over buying at the lumber yard.
If it is just for the storage you said, I would go with standard trusses and save the money. A second floor is additional cost. Scissor trusses are a headache to install - they require additional framing methods that cost more time ($$) to accomplish.
I recommend a cinder block stem wall at least 2 rows of block high and then frame your walls on that. It will be cheaper to frame as you can then frame a 8' wall on top of the cinder block. It will also get your framing that much higher up from the soil. If it ever floods the framing will stay dry. You also will not have to worry about surface run off running under the bottom plate of the wall into the garage.
2x6 walls are better if you plan to insulate it - more room for insulation. 2x4 is sufficient if the cost is a concern.
I would install (2) 10' wide x 9' high doors in the gable end 2' from each side w/ 6' between the doors. Cheaper to install doors in the gable end as gable walls are not load bearing. Also better for the snow running off the roof - it will not block the doors.
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