To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

30'x40' shop on a budget

Madrona

Well-known member
Joined
May 25, 2014
Messages
193
Location
All over
Yeah, right, huh? I've got 4 acres of land I'm going to be building a shop on. I've installed well, septic, and power, and am in the midst of building my 12x16 well house (fully plumbed, insulated, etc.), but at the same time am trying to figure out how I can build something nice without breaking the bank. I am happy to do all the work myself with the exception of the concrete. I've got pretty much every tool you'd need for building a house. I'm just trying to figure out how to get the best bang for my buck insofar as materials are concerned. I'm a bit shocked by how expensive everything has become. I seem to recall buying 8' 2x4 wall studs for a buck a piece. Now they're $3.50 around here. Holy smokes. That's caused me to wonder about a steel building, or something else.

I want the shop to be 30'x40' because I think I'll regret anything smaller down the road. I have a few vehicles I need to keep under cover, and I also want to be able to have some room to work on them. The sidewall height will have to be a compromise, probably. While it'd be great to have a 12' sidewall with a 10' door (or better yet 14' with 12' door and 40'x60' :D), I'm probably looking at 10' wall with 8' door. Also wanted to put a small office area with a bathroom. I've looked into pole barn kits, square tube kits, red metal type kits, and c-channel kits, and of course stick built. All of the choices just make it even harder to decide.

Anyway, as I move towards the summer I kind of need to make a decision. Looking forward to hearing from people on what they like/don't like, and how they made their respective decisions.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

MScott

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 30, 2009
Messages
1,616
Location
Eastern Ontario
It seems I'm always mentioning this, but putting your general location in your profile will help you get better answers since requirements and costs will depend greatly on where you are. I would strongly suggest going to 12' walls since the cost is not much higher than 10' and it allows the installation of a lift even it that is a plan for way in the future. If your budget does not allow the height of door you will eventually want, you can install double headers, one for the door you can afford and another higher one for your eventual plan.
Insulation, infloor heating, and roof structure will depend on where you are.
Another suggestion is to plan for lots of electrical outlets, both 120 and 240 all placed at the 4' height so they are accessible behind benches or tools.
 

Chitown_hillbilly

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 6, 2011
Messages
982
Location
Morris, IL
If you are capable of building the whole thing yourself, go to menards get on the Project computer and start designing what you want. Print out the materials list and then you can take it anywhere you want to buy the materials. Gives a pretty good estimate of materials.

I just built a 30x40x10 last summer, didn't go stick built route because I don't have the time to do it myself. So I had a Pole barn built for a shell and I'm slowly finishing it myself. I've got a pretty basic setup, with no plumbing, but the inside will be finished and insulated and I will have about $23k in it when finished. Paid about $13k for the shell and $4200 for the concrete.
 

Norcal

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 16, 2008
Messages
13,769
If you are capable of building the whole thing yourself, go to menards get on the Project computer and start designing what you want. Print out the materials list and then you can take it anywhere you want to buy the materials. Gives a pretty good estimate of materials.

I just built a 30x40x10 last summer, didn't go stick built route because I don't have the time to do it myself. So I had a Pole barn built for a shell and I'm slowly finishing it myself. I've got a pretty basic setup, with no plumbing, but the inside will be finished and insulated and I will have about $23k in it when finished. Paid about $13k for the shell and $4200 for the concrete.

The OP is in Washington, closest Menards in in Casper, WY.

http://www.menards.com/main/storeLocator.html
 
OP
M

Madrona

Well-known member
Joined
May 25, 2014
Messages
193
Location
All over
Unfortunately we don't have Menards out here. I went to their website but the project estimators are only available in-store.
 
OP
M

Madrona

Well-known member
Joined
May 25, 2014
Messages
193
Location
All over
I've been trying to think "outside of the box" too. One idea I had was to use a couple shipping containers as sidewalls, then incorporate a timber frame structure to finish it off. Something really cool looking, and useful. I've actually drawn it out, but I think it may be a headache because of the local government. I can't stand those people.
 

SCWOOD

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 5, 2011
Messages
108
pole barn.If there is a saw mill nearby check with them on the lumber.Once you get the shell done you could finish how you like.
 

kbs2244

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 11, 2006
Messages
14,065
Cheapest square foot cost is usually a pole barn.
But setting and squaring the poles is not a one man project and the “tin box” appearance may be a problem to some.

For a one man DIY project I like stick built.
Once the concrete is down you have a flat working surface that you can build wall panels on.
(I would adjust you size so the wall are a multiple of 4 feet. That way you can break a long wall into 12 or 16 foot lengths for easier handling.)
Then, if you plan it right, you can call in the help and tilt them into place.
That will get you to the top plate.

The truss guys will deliver to the top plate for a price.
Then it is a 2 or 3 man job to tilt them into place and put down the roof sheathing.
 

Chitown_hillbilly

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 6, 2011
Messages
982
Location
Morris, IL

slice

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 16, 2010
Messages
331
Nice wish list. I have 30x40. You won't be happy with the size if you want all that in the building. I did 10 ft eves. 8 ft doors. Works well. 4/12 pitch 13 ft in middle enough for lift.
 

NUTTSGT

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Sep 14, 2009
Messages
51,099
Location
Northern Central Ohio
I'd prefer a stick built myself. Use 2x6x10' set on top of a 3 course block wall for a 12' wall, if you want the added height. The 2x6 wall allows for more insulation, like R19, which should be readily available. I'd also go with atleast a 10' over the 8' wall, The shorter walls **** if you ever do any tpe of wood working and handle 4x8 sheets of anything of long boards.

Do you build in phases if you need too, get it closed in, started the wiring in the late Summer followed by insulation this fall. Once the snow flies, it'll give you a place to go and something to do finishing the interior.
 
OP
M

Madrona

Well-known member
Joined
May 25, 2014
Messages
193
Location
All over
I've had a pole barn before, and the thing I didn't like about it was the insects, rodents, etc. which got inside. I couldn't keep that stuff out. Also, was hard to keep it warm inside. Fortunately it doesn't get real cold here. Zone 8. I won't have any help raising walls. I'll rig stuff up and use my tractor to help if I need to. Would probably have the trusses delivered to the top. Wish I could build in place on the roof but they don't allow that anymore. Must be "engineered." Just love the nanny state.
 

meathooker

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 10, 2013
Messages
254
Location
Iowa
In regards to height - I just purchased a home with a 32x48 shop. 9'8" walls with 8' doors and I'd give anything for 12' walls with 10' doors. IMO the minimal cost now will be we'll worth it in the long run.
 

E_braker

Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2009
Messages
21
I have a 30x40 pole barn style shop with 10 walls. (Built by the previous home owner). I also wish I had 12' walls. It gives you the possibility of a loft (now or down the road) at a FRACTION of the cost. Please, for your own good, do 12' walls.

In regards to height - I just purchased a home with a 32x48 shop. 9'8" walls with 8' doors and I'd give anything for 12' walls with 10' doors. IMO the minimal cost now will be we'll worth it in the long run.
 

E_braker

Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2009
Messages
21
Ps: I think your idea of using the 40' conex containers is brilliant and a very cost effective solution. Just build it,... screw "the man".
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Playwme

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 13, 2012
Messages
2,032
Location
The Lucky Country Down Under
Use secondhand materials. Find some industrial steel framing and roof trusses from a demolition job. Get some panelling and roofing. I pick up steel beams and sheeting here and there when I can. I'd have enough stuff to build the main structure of a shed that size, and it probably owes me less than $1000. Sometimes I get leftover materials from bigger jobs that save a lot of money. It's amazing what you can achieve with just the tools and some hard work.
It's perfectly feasible to build a full shop that's nice for basically the cost of your concrete and some fasteners and electrical supplies. You just need to think outside the box.
 

High5

Well-known member
Joined
May 10, 2014
Messages
72
Location
Washington state
I would recommend you check this store out. Second Use is located on 6th and Forest in downtown Seattle. They take in pretty much anything that can be resold (which includes items that are new and never used). We have bought Simpson doors still in the wrapper for 1/3 the cost. Furniture, fixtures, you name it. Just bought a welding table used by Boeing Aerospace with 1-1/4 thick steel table top for pennies to the dollar. Check them out. Here's the link:

http://www.seconduse.com/
 

Robbo

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 6, 2006
Messages
171
Location
N. TX
I've been trying to think "outside of the box" too. One idea I had was to use a couple shipping containers as sidewalls, then incorporate a timber frame structure to finish it off. Something really cool looking, and useful. I've actually drawn it out, but I think it may be a headache because of the local government. I can't stand those people.



I've been trying to think "outside of the box" too. One idea I had was to use a couple shipping containers as sidewalls, then incorporate a timber frame structure to finish it off. Something really cool looking, and useful. I've actually drawn it out, but I think it may be a headache because of the local government. I can't stand those people.


That's exactly what a buddy of mine is doing. Poured a square slab with small extensions going out 8' at corners that the boxes will sit on to make up two sides... Then framing in the middle portion to make a processing room (he's a farmer) with an apartment on top for interns.

In this pic, the side walls are sitting against the container awaiting final placement. They will span the space between the containers when moved into place.

He's goofing off in the second pic, but it shows the "slab extension" that the containers will sit on.

buva5u5u.jpg
jyhugy7a.jpg



Side note: He's out in the country outside a tiny town (in TX) so no input on dealing with codes etc.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
OP
M

Madrona

Well-known member
Joined
May 25, 2014
Messages
193
Location
All over
That's exactly what a buddy of mine is doing. Poured a square slab with small extensions going out 8' at corners that the boxes will sit on to make up two sides... Then framing in the middle portion to make a processing room (he's a farmer) with an apartment on top for interns.

In this pic, the side walls are sitting against the container awaiting final placement. They will span the space between the containers when moved into place.

He's goofing off in the second pic, but it shows the "slab extension" that the containers will sit on.

buva5u5u.jpg
jyhugy7a.jpg



Side note: He's out in the country outside a tiny town (in TX) so no input on dealing with codes etc.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Awesome! I can't believe he's actually doing what I was thinking up in my head. Makes sense to not pour a full slab, but just have those extensions to save on the cost. His is a little smaller than I was imagining, but similar nonetheless. Thanks for the pics!
 

ADSR

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
10,713
I've been trying to think "outside of the box" too. One idea I had was to use a couple shipping containers as sidewalls, then incorporate a timber frame structure to finish it off. Something really cool looking, and useful. I've actually drawn it out, but I think it may be a headache because of the local government. I can't stand those people.

shop in a box

http://pavilionstructures.com/building-models/shop-in-a-box
 

rburke65

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Messages
12,349
Location
Canfield, Ohio
Oh ya......you got to love the GPS satellite photos that are available to the municipalities and the code enforcers !
 

justin1795

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 7, 2013
Messages
442
Location
blue grass IA
I have bounced back and forth on stick and pole. I was leaning towards stick till I went down to the county office. they gave me the footing requirments. I had a slope but there was a even pad I wanted to put it on. I had a concreate guy come over and he wanted to do a 12 foot deep wall over here 8 over here ect.. the code is 42in but do to slope he thought this would be best. in the end I decided to go with pole. due to not having to have the footings. it will cost more to insulate but the concreate killed the stick in my project.
 

Charles (in GA)

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
12,489
Location
50 mi south of Atlanta
I would like to do a similar project as a second building (the container idea). I would want it sealed and closed in on the bottom to keep out rodents and vermin and whatnot. Space the containers about 30 ft apart and roof it with with the roof section, without the sidewalls of the type in the pic below.

a-model-steel-building34.jpg


They make foundation plates to mount the side walls on, just take these same plates and tack weld them to the top of the containers at the outer most edges. You would have a 30x40 clear area and two containers (high cube is best) for vermin and insect proof use. I would take one and isoclene spray foam the insides and put in a mini split for environmental and have a place to store my excess antiques. The other one would become a mini apartment for guests.
 

Kevin54

MEMBER EMERITUS
Joined
Jan 12, 2005
Messages
29,341
Location
Urbana, Ohio
Oh ya......you got to love the GPS satellite photos that are available to the municipalities and the code enforcers !

And those satellite pics are coming more often than they used to be. I think a lot of municipalities are now having it done yearly instead of every two or three years. I happened to look at mine the other day, and the last pic was taken around October of last year as momma's Olds was sitting out in front of my garage. Before that, I had my car trailer, and I remember the pic had the car trailer sitting in front of the garage. So that is two years in a row that our municipality has been updated by satellite. We'll see what this Fall brings.
 

dhubbard422

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 16, 2011
Messages
472
Location
Texas Hill Country
If I was still in the PNW, I'd consider a web steel building. If they had an office and installers near Texas, I expect that I would have gone with them.
http://www.wsbnw.com/

As it is, I am planning on having Morton put up mine, hopefully, this summer.

I have no affiliation with WebSteel. I just like the price, the way the building goes together and the ease with which one could finish the interior.
 

MagKarl

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 15, 2012
Messages
684
Location
Olympia, WA
I am one of the guys that tried to beat the system and skirt the permit process and lost in the end. Learned my lesson for sure. I was allowed 200 square feet of floor area for a backyard shed. So I built a shed 10 x 20, with a 10 foot pole supported roof overhangs on 3 sides. Floor area was 200 SF, Roof was 30 x 30.

Couple years later the building dept comes knocking. Found it on the satellite image comparison. I argued my case that I had followed the letter of the law even though violated the intent. Lots of hassle, many trips to the planning office, months go by, and about $500 later, I had a permitted structure. I was lucky to keep it. Learned my lesson.
 

Kevin54

MEMBER EMERITUS
Joined
Jan 12, 2005
Messages
29,341
Location
Urbana, Ohio
That's exactly what a buddy of mine is doing. Poured a square slab with small extensions going out 8' at corners that the boxes will sit on to make up two sides... Then framing in the middle portion to make a processing room (he's a farmer) with an apartment on top for interns.

In this pic, the side walls are sitting against the container awaiting final placement. They will span the space between the containers when moved into place.

He's goofing off in the second pic, but it shows the "slab extension" that the containers will sit on.

buva5u5u.jpg
jyhugy7a.jpg



Side note: He's out in the country outside a tiny town (in TX) so no input on dealing with codes etc.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Interesting. I hope you post up a pic or two in a new thread when he's done with it, or if you would, get him to become a member, or if he doesn't want to, ask if you can start a build thread for him. I'd like to follow along with the build.
 

ADSR

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
10,713
That's exactly what a buddy of mine is doing. Poured a square slab with small extensions going out 8' at corners that the boxes will sit on to make up two sides... Then framing in the middle portion to make a processing room (he's a farmer) with an apartment on top for interns.

In this pic, the side walls are sitting against the container awaiting final placement. They will span the space between the containers when moved into place.

He's goofing off in the second pic, but it shows the "slab extension" that the containers will sit on.

buva5u5u.jpg
jyhugy7a.jpg



Side note: He's out in the country outside a tiny town (in TX) so no input on dealing with codes etc.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That's awesome! Moar build pics!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom