30x44 pole barn

[Tarheel Slim]

Hello im new here,i have been going through alot of hassle to be able to build this pole barn for my antique tractors,with permits,Conservation Authority and a minor variance im at about 3700.00,had a guy come to dig the 21 holes today with a 24 inch auger,His little Ditch Witch couldnt handle the rocks in the virgin ground so he got one hole to 4ft depth an the other 5 are about 2 ft. down,So now after paying this guy 150.00 for 5 half dug holes and one at 4ft.,im now having to wait because the guy i should have called is booked for a month solid.I have all my posts and lumber coming next week,im worried about it all twisting up on me,Im clearing an area in the shade,its away from direct sun all day and im thinking of stacking all this lumber on some 6x6 posts i have laying around with some weight on top,a little very discouraged at this point,thanks.

 

[NUTTSGT]

You might want to add your location in your profile and go break out your camera. If you don't take pictures now, you won't be able to document the build for future reference.

 

[Tarheel Slim]

Took a few pics yesterday but they wouldnt upload,i will try again.

 

[RPH]

Depending on the quality of the wood it should be fine if stacked properly.
I have a 30x72' pole barn that was delivered in a blizzard in December. A large out of town project came up and I didn't get a chance to work on it till August. Building is straight as an arrow and only out 3 mm over the long wall. Any reason you can't dig by hand? I have rocks to the size of boulders here and had to hand dig some huge rocks out. On my east end the holes had to go down almost 2 meters to reach the undisturbed soil. 12" auger on the tractor and hand dig the 20" bell shaped bottom. Not easy but can be done.

 

[matt_i]

"Sticker" the wood up off the ground, support long posts in 3-4 places. You can then use a tarp, a piece of plastic that's eventually going to be a vapor barrier, or a piece of housewrap. Stack some sacrificial/scrap wood or rocks (!) on the top and sides to keep it from blowing off. That's as good as the lumberyard. They keep it dry from overhead rainfall and from soaking it up off the ground.

 

[lakeroadster]

The GC for my barn had said all he needed was his Bobcat, that he would auger in the holes for the columns that were 30" dia. x 5 ft deep. He didn't make it 1 ft down on the first hole.



A mini excavator will do a great job but leaves some huge holes to backfill.

 

[Tarheel Slim]

Now that is rocky ground,my posts are going 8 ft. on centers however there are a few posts at 5ft. on center on the garage door end.As far as stacking i think i should be ok,i have some bundles of shingles im not using maybe they would work for some weight on top of the lumber.

 

[jives]

Okay, so 16 holes to start and/or complete. Either find someone else with bigger equipment or rent your own. Trying to do so many holes by hand will ruin your summer.

Your lumber will be fine if protected like the folks above have said. Our trusses were dropped off in March in the mud/slush of our driveway after a late winter snowstorm. Sat a month. Went up fine.

 

[Tarheel Slim]

Update,the guy i have lined up for Friday morning says he will be here first thing in the morning,i will take some pictures and post them at some point,and i will take pics of this project as i complete it.

 

[Tarheel Slim]

Got the holes done today after fighting with the rocks in the holes. The posts,bagged cement and lumber all came today as well.I would like to know if i can post pics using photobucket? does anyone use photobucket? I will post pics eventually,stay tuned.

 

[jives]

Got the holes done today after fighting with the rocks in the holes. The posts,bagged cement and lumber all came today as well.I would like to know if i can post pics using photobucket? does anyone use photobucket? I will post pics eventually,stay tuned.

Yeah, I use photobucket. Just copy and paste the IMG address.

 

[Tarheel Slim]

[/IMG]

 

[Tarheel Slim]

 

[Tarheel Slim]

Tried to post a few pics but the same pic shows up every time i go to post a new pic.

 

[KEH]

Slim,

I strongly advise that you get rid of the tree on the right side of your pic. I just spent about $600 getting rid of an elm tree that was growing into my barn, which I should have cut down years ago. Stump is close to 3 feet across. Nice site other wise.

KEH

 

[Bluedodge]

How about some of these:

Edit - I tried to upload some of your photobucket pics, but no luck....

Edited edit -

 

[NUTTSGT]

Tried to post a few pics but the same pic shows up every time i go to post a new pic.

I'd guess you're not properly copying the IMG code.


....moving to the Gallery section.

 

[Tarheel Slim]

Thanks Bluedodge,i will try and post some more pics soon,going to set posts tomorrow,and that tree is small compared to the one we took down ,but you can see the stump in the picture.If the three in the pic gets in the way it will be cut down. Last Sunday on fathers day, dad and i mixed 107 30kg bags of concrete in a wheel barrel for the post footings on fathers day with my 76 year old Father.Heck of a great guy and tough ****** it was just the two of us and a wheel barrel,but we got it done.

 

[Tarheel Slim]

trying to post pics for an update....its been a bit of fun and a whole lot of stress building this shop but i know in the end its going to be worth it.

 

[Tarheel Slim]

some more pics ,not in any particular order....my buddy drove 3 hours to help me with the trusses,i also had another buddy help us out with the trusses.This is my first build and i know it may not look perfect but im fairly happy with it so far,im open to thoughts and opinions.

 

[lakeroadster]

trying to post pics for an update....its been a bit of fun and a whole lot of stress building this shop but i know in the end its going to be worth it.

Amen to that. Seeing the framing nearly done, you gotta be stoked!

Wow.. that's a bunch of trusses.

So what are you planning to do for a floor? Would the finished floor level be at the top, or near the top, of the lower girt?

 

[BLUE72CAMARO]

Wow.. that's a bunch of trusses.

That was exactly what I was thinking! Guessing its designed for a little more snow load than what we see here in IL.

 

[Tarheel Slim]

For the floor i plan on bringing the concrete up to the top of the girt board,im also going to put on another girt board below the girt i have now,im not too sure if pouring the concrete to the top of the girt is the way its normally done,any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Chris705]

Thinking you know this ....but before you pour any concrete you need to remove ALL of the topsoil within your building area. Then bring in at least 6" of stone base.....

Lots of discussion here on placing concrete.....search thru Google, use the words garage journal and slabs...or concrete.

 

[Tarheel Slim]

Chris,yes i need to remove grass and top soil,was going to use recycled concrete half inch material, 22 yards for 350.00,just wondering if the recycled stuff is a good idea or if three quarter clear gravel is better to use .

 

[Chris705]

Not really sure about recycled concrete. I think it might be ok if it can be well compacted. Cheap enough were you can use a lot of it to get a good depth of fill.

 

[lakeroadster]

For the floor i plan on bringing the concrete up to the top of the girt board,im also going to put on another girt board below the girt i have now,im not too sure if pouring the concrete to the top of the girt is the way its normally done,any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated.

The location of the bottom of the doors (overhead and man) dictate the slab location. Bottom line is the floor needs to be high enough so that the drainage of water around the building doesn't come into the barn.

High and dry is the best advice you will ever get in this regard.

On my barn the slab location was a few inches below the lower girt... which in fact is really known as the splash boards. These boards need to be made from ground contact rated pressure treated lumber. Not just pressure treated... ground contact rated pressure treated.

Chris,yes i need to remove grass and top soil,was going to use recycled concrete half inch material, 22 yards for 350.00,just wondering if the recycled stuff is a good idea or if three quarter clear gravel is better to use .

The right way is to use sub-grade material that has previously recorded "proctor test data". If you call your local aggregate place, ask them for sub-grade material for a slab, that has proctor data. Then that material (that has proctor testing data) needs to be compacted and then inspected for proper compaction. I had my sub-grade inspected by a local company that tests highway sub-grade and the testing was under $200.

You'll then know the sub-grade is adequate, and your concrete will have a proper base.

If you take some guys word for it, and there is no contract, you really have nothing tangible.

"Trust, But Verify". The testing is the verification.. even if you are doing everything yourself.

I'd suggest "Class 6" for the sub-grade material.

If you use crushed concrete, beware the concrete dust. Use a proper mask. Silicosis is deadly: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicosis

 

[Tarheel Slim]

lakeroadster,thanks for all the good advice,think im going to go inch and a half below top of girt board for my floor line.Girts are ground contact rated.We will be grading and sloping the dirt around the building to direct water away from building.

 

[Chris705]

I would highly recommend slab edge insulation around the perimeter to prevent slab edge heat loss in the event you ever want to heat your space. You can cut the top edge of the insulation at a 45* angle....1 or 2" thick would be great!

 

[Tarheel Slim]

Couple pics for an update,its been pretty challenging building this myself with little to no help around at most times.Looking forward to getting it finished before winter,still alot of work to do....

 

[Tarheel Slim]

damn forgot the pics....

 

[Tarheel Slim]

Update on what been done so far,being working against the cold weather as of lately will post some current pics soon.