Thanks for all the input! I wasn't planning on all that electrical circuits. Could you expand on all circuits you are using?
for my 30x42 shop -
two 20a 120v circuits for the downstairs general lights (every other fixture on different circuit, so I can turn on half or all).
four 20a 120v circuits for general use receptacles, with 4 different colors of outlets. 4 outlets per bay (post frame, so 10ft except the 12ft bay), so that's roughly every 2.5 feet (roughly 44 duplex outlets). again, staggered. so each bay has black/white/grey/beige circuits. this allows easy distribution of intermittent loads across the 4 circuits, so most equipment that doesnt need dedicated breakers uses these (including the 120v welder)
1 dedicated 240v circuit for the lift
1 dedicated 240v circuit for the air compressor
1 20a general use receptacle circuit that feeds 4 outlets on the left and right posts of the lift
1 50a 240v circuit with 3 (eventually 4....) outlets in strategic locations (1 near the big door, one mid-way down the long wall) to feed the big welders or plasma or any other larger load. my wheel balancer lives on this circuit these days and that's the 3rd outlet (it was a lot easier to piggy back on that then to run a dedicated circuit...).
decisions I loved from my shop build:
the 20ftx10ft door instead of 2x10x10 doors. my builder convinced me, and I'm glad he did. Same installed price, and a whole hell of a lot more useful, especially once the shop is packed full of stuff..
I can stick a trailer down the middle with cars parked on the sides, or park cars 3 wide (if they're small), or whatever I need to do, without worrying about that center post.
I went with a full attic truss - I have a 12x8x42ft center aisle upstairs, then I have the wings in each bay. tons of "free" space (only relatively small cost increase, and most of that was the floor and stairs - the trusses themselves were nearly the same cost)
I did the top 2 feet of the wall height on the long walls in translucent panels, and I love the light. the lack of insulation value is less apparent than it would be if it were lower. I -have- smacked them twice and put holes in them, though. (once with board from upstairs and once with the 28ft ladder..). but it's florida - so ymmv if you have to worry about cold.
I also had the builder install a radiant + bubblewrap style insulation. HUGE difference, both in our hot and "cold" seasons. Even if I insulate further down the road, there's no exposed metal panels anywhere to provide direct heat/cold transfer.
the 12ft wall height. having enough height to operate a 2 or 4 post lift at full height is critical, and my lift is probably my single best tool I ever bought.
decisions I regret:
the 12ft wall height. Should have done 12.5 or 13ft or even 14ft. As it is, to use a overhead cross bar lift (clear floor), I have to make sure my posts and cross bar tuck into the rafters upstairs floor joists. I have just enough height (even to lift my vw bus w/ camper top, or a car with the hood open), but I do have to watch my clearances. Of course, the floor plate style lift I have right now makes that less of an issue, but my future lift upgrade will require careful placement.
