You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
30x50 suggestions
- Thread starter woodersen
- Start date
Wooderson - Your revised plan is better. I was going to warn you about the hazards of trying to permit a structure in which people will be sleeping. Let's just say... you don't want to go there unless you are prepared to double your budget. At least, that's what I'm finding here with my build.
Further, you were never going to be happy packing 5 pounds of sh*t in a 2# can. S-P-A-C-E... give yourself plenty!! My garage is slated to be 30' x 66' (more-or-less) and I think it will be tight putting three bays and a woodshop, plus the 3/4 bath. I happen to have a loft above for the "guest quarters", but I still think what will actually fit, and what I initially planned on fitting, will differ. And not insignificantly so...
Lastly, here's the guidelines I was given when planning my garage. (Mind you, I'm in Minnesota, so mechanicals and frost depth are issues that you may not need to contend with as I did.) For a bare minimum structure, $15-20 sq. ft. To upgrade (good quality overhead doors, 4" slab, interior sheating on the walls, etc), plan on $30 a sq. ft. to be closer. The more one does themself, the more one could shave off these figures, but no more than about a third if done practically ALL yourself...
How does this fit with the experience of others?
Good info, is that your hand xray?
HD FLHX
Well-known member
Lastly, here's the guidelines I was given when planning my garage. (Mind you, I'm in Minnesota, so mechanicals and frost depth are issues that you may not need to contend with as I did.) For a bare minimum structure, $15-20 sq. ft. To upgrade (good quality overhead doors, 4" slab, interior sheating on the walls, etc), plan on $30 a sq. ft. to be closer. The more one does themself, the more one could shave off these figures, but no more than about a third if done practically ALL yourself...
How does this fit with the experience of others?
I came in at about $34 a sqft on my building. I hired out the dirtwork, concrete and the construction of the shell. I done the wiring and all of the interior finish work myself. When you start estimating the cost add another 15-20% to what you think it'll cost and that'll be a more realistic budget.
PetesPonies
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2010
- Messages
- 120
With my newest building, I'm at about $10 a sq/ft so far. That's the completed building and concrete. I'm going to be doing my wiring shortly. With my last building, it started out being 1600 square ft. I was able to do that for a little over $14K, so under $10 sq/ft. I did all the work. Once I added on to the building it ended up being much bigger, but I didn't keep track of costs. I would guess though I was in the same ballpark. These have all been pole barns, very reasonable price wise and hold up well.
No, thank goodness. But sadly, it sure could've been on a few occasions!Good info, is that your hand xray?
I would definitely go a high ceiling, for a possible loft area. I built a 30X40X12, and really wish I would have went with 14ft ceiling, to be able to do a loft. I know someone else on here did a building using scissor trusses on half. My 30X40 holds 6 cars, but not much around it, at all. So I regret not putting a high enough ceiling to have a loft overlooking my car area. It would have made a great hang out for my friends, and such, as well as extra storage. Originally why I built my garage "man cave" was to have buddies over for games and such in the garage, now that everything is in my garage its pretty stuffed.
TXShelbyman
Member
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2012
- Messages
- 7
I just got finished building a 50X40. It was my first metal building build. I'll tell you what I learned. 8'W X 10'H doors are not the way to go. WAY to narrow. I had to go back and remove two of the 8' doors and put in 1 19' door. An expensive lesson. I built one stall to store my collector car in. It is 20' deep. Thats fine for the 66 Mustang because it is short. I tried to put my 06 F150 in there and it barely made it. Maybe a couple of inches left in the front and 4 to 6 in the rear. With the 8'W doors I had to fold in the mirrors and then only cleared by a couple of inches each side. If you are going red iron building, you will lose about 10 to 12 inches all the way around. The steel purlins are 6 or 8" deep and if you put 2X4 walls up there goes another 3 1/2 inches. That will really screw up your plans. I had to narrow a couple of the shops I was building in. In one area where the steel cables crossed between beams I lost a total of 16" to get in front of the cables. Still building out the inside.
Getting closer, thought i would bump this to the top for any suggestions. I went to mueller and got some quotes. I also got a quote from ICON, has anyone delt with these 2 outfits. Mueller talked a good game but want 10 to 15% increase to windstorm certify a custom building. A 30x50 'kit' is 8500, or 10k with windstorm cert, but only has 1 framed opening. If u add windows, extra doors it is no longer windstorm certified. So you would need to go with a custom building. Roughly 12,500. ICON quoted me about 11k for the same thing.....still getting idea ive just begun shopping, no real rush to buy.
msubryan
Active member
Bump
rburke65
Well-known member
I put up a 56x32' with 2 garage doors, but I went with 2 12'x8 doors. I like 'em.