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31x58 UK barn conversion

NASMAN

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Have not seen many barns like that from the UK. What you have posted so far is fantastic. Would love to see more.
If you have not checked out the Just Barns Forum , please do so. We would love to have a barn like yours from the UK on it.
 
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Omphaloskeptic

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Great transformation you have going on there; well done!

Just curious if the wood worms are taken gone for good? I'm familiar with termites and the fact that they need to be periodically exterminated or the ground treated to keep them from returning. What do they look like and how pernicious are they?
 

oldldh

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Subscribed!!!

I spent seven years stationed in the U.K....love the people and the country, don't like the government (doesn't seem to matter which flavor is in office) very much...

My wife is British, and the majority of our family is still there, so we really love "British Stuff" to follow...

Keep up the great job, and stay warm...
 

Lippyp

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Woodworm holes are an indication of the presence of one of several species of wood boring beatles. Its the larval stage that bores and then leave behind a little flight hole when they change into the beatle and leave the wood.

It's fairly easy to eradicate with a decent chemical treatment. I did all the roof beams in my house in France as they were showing signs of active worm and ten years on its still inactive. I literally just doused them with a pump up garden sprayer with a chemical killer/repellant. Most treatments leave a long lasting chemical repellant that stops re-infestation. The roof timbers in my cowshed garage here though are quite badly infested, so much so that coupled with the rat damage along the top of the walls when the roof is redone it's almost certainly going to need all new timber. Theres a kind of break even point where the damage means it's not worth treating. It gets very dry and crumbly when badly affected and the tunnels destroy its strength. The new wood will get pre-treated to stop any future infestation happening.
 
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lmb

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Just curious if the wood worms are taken gone for good? I'm familiar with termites and the fact that they need to be periodically exterminated or the ground treated to keep them from returning. What do they look like and how pernicious are they?

I hope so, although I guess it will be a few years until I can be sure as apparently the 'worms' (the beetle larvae) live in the wood for several years before boring their way out to turn into beetles and mate. When I started with the barn I found lots of 'flight holes' in some areas (nothing in others) but having spoken to a few people they said that they mainly like damp wood and so probably it was an old infestation. There were originally a few holes in the roof of the barn, which I fixed before I started the conversion, and since it had fully dried out I hoped that they probably wouldn't be interested in coming back. However, I masked up the doorframe when I was painting the blockwork and I didn't get around to removing the masking tape for a long time, and when I did and noticed that there were lots of small 1mm holes in the masking tape it was pretty obvious I still have an active infestation :eek: Also later I found that the cars left in there were covered in a fine sawdust, which is created when the larvae are eating themselves new holes in the wood. I have read that they only like bare wood, so painting it alone should be enough to ensure that they are unlikely to lay their eggs on that wood in the future, although that doesn't do anything to kill the larvae that are already in the wood and will eventually eat their way out.

I found a treatment called Permethrin which is the common ingredient used to kill them off. Apparently it is pretty nasty stuff, although there are conflicting reports about its effect on humans, so whilst spraying it over all the beams would have been very quick I decided I didn't want to be in there with it airborne in a spray so decided to brush it in instead. This took hours and hours and hours - about 1000 sq ft of flooring to 'paint' plus all the joists as well on three faces, which I reckon could have been a similar surface area. I persisted though as there didn't seem to be much point doing the rest of the conversion if it was just going to get ruined by the infestation in the future. Having covered over the joists with plywood to create the ceiling since then I am hopeful that as there are no flight holes in that yet then the poison has done its job.

As for what they look like, I did find a load of them lying on top of one of the worksurfaces where I have not yet covered the joists with ply (I'm hoping they were poisoned as opposed to all meeting up there to mate and then dropping dead!!?) and they just look like very small beetles! They only measure a couple of mm in length, so quite hard to describe any particularly interesting features about them as they are so tiny.
 

roger440

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This is just fantastic!!!

As others said, so rare in the UK.

And i'd just been perusing a few property websites looking for just the same thing!

Will be keeping an eye on this one :)
 
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lmb

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Having posted some close-ups of the signs I thought I could take better pictures of some of the other stuff that I have up in there. I bought a clock when I was out in Hong Kong. It's from Autoart, so nothing particularly 'unique', but it goes well with the garage theme, and since I haven't seen one appearing in other garage threads thought I would post a pic here:

wall1_zpsce3015c3.jpg


The next one I would think probably is unique (as a wall feature)... I was looking for some parts for my car on Ebay and noticed that someone was selling a slightly damaged S62 plenum cover. The damage would prevent it being used on a car so it was selling quite cheap so I bought it to mount up on the wall as a sculpture/art!

wall2_zps6b9d4fd7.jpg
 
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lmb

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The wall between the workshop and the central part of the barn is just an internal wall and not load-bearing (you can see the RSJ runs right through it) and I originally toyed with the idea of knocking it down to create an even larger space. I may still do that one day as there is currently no way to get cars into the 'workshop' section where I have my cabinets and tool chests, but the upside is that it gives me a space where I can do 'messy' workshop tasks and create a lot of dust from wood sawing without needing to worry that it ends up settling all over the cars. This also means that since I bring any car I want to work on out of the central section and into the 'side bay' I only really use the central section to clean/polish/wax the cars or do some minor 'clean' work on them. Since it stays clean in there I have been able to put up some display cabinets and finally display some of the models that I had collected over the years but never really had on display (wife was not too keen on having the house full of them!)

You can probably guess from the signs that I posted pictures of already, I am a Subaru fan, and put all the rally-related models into one cabinet that we used to use in the house:

disp1_zps3ce4a66a.jpg


I used to love watching McRae and Burnsy competing back in the day. It's sad that neither of them are with us today. The WRC is no longer even covered on UK terrestial TV anymore so it's quite hard to follow it here these days :sad:
 

Omphaloskeptic

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Good luck with those wood-worm critters; hopefully they've had their last 'Great Escape' foiled by the insecticide!

Looking forward to more progress pics.
 
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lmb

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Good luck with those wood-worm critters; hopefully they've had their last 'Great Escape' foiled by the insecticide!

Boy, I hope so. It would be pretty soul destroying if after all this work they eat their way through the joists and I have to start all over again. I think I only noticed a few flight holes in the joists for the mezzanine section when I started the conversion there and didn't know anything about the insecticide then so I'm thinking about taking all the panels down where the downlights are and treating the joists and then putting it all back up again. Better safe than sorry I guess?!? It's only when I was working on the central section that I noticed all the holes and sawdust stuff that I realised I had an active infestation and needed to treat it thoroughly - I think I have used about 30 litres of the stuff now, slapping it onto every part of the joists and underside of the floorboards of the top floor, plus extra coats on the sections where I can see some flight holes have appeared in the past. Thus far I don't see any sign of further activity on anything that I have treated - let's hope it's been a success.

The worrying time is lengthened by the fact that they can take years to bore their way out, so it could look fine for a couple of years and then all the nice new ply I have put up and painted could get drilled through hundreds of times in a weekend (I think I read that they come out to mate on one particular day - noone knows how they communicate this to each other!)

Is woodworm much of an issue in the US, as I know you build with wood a lot more than we do over here (but perhaps that just means you know to get wood treated for it before you start)?
 

Omphaloskeptic

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Apparently wood worms of various species are a worldwide problem, but I think here in the U.S., the common termite is more of a problem, especially in those areas that do not experience a 'hard freeze' winter. As the one article mentioned, the woodworm seems more prevalent on the East coast of America.

I did a quick search for my own edification, using ' U.S. woodworm infestation ' on Google. Here's one result - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Woodworm , and another, - http://blog.ecosmart.com/index.php/2009/12/01/woodworm-treatment/

I would not want to be plagued with the little devils as you are; it sounds like they are a '******' (pun) to deal with. The use of an electric bug zapper(s) might be needed in the Spring when the females are flitting about looking for a ground-bound male to mate with. Insecticide poison applied with a brush might be sufficient, but I'm inclined to wage a war that might be considered 'mutually assured destruction' by using sprays of various sorts; of course, I would be the only combatant wearing a suitable gas mask! LOL I would probably opt for the good old weapon of choice, the 'garden sprayer', to squirt/spray a properly diluted concentrated insecticide into every nook and cranny that a brush won't reach, along with every surface that the brush did cover. Repeated applications in the Spring might be called for in case some of the critters arrive 'late for the party' and didn't get a taste of the 'kool-aid' in the first application's punchbowl.

I don't know if a product like this is available to you in the U.K., but there are poisons available here that you mix into the paint before applying, and is supposed to be effective against spiders and such; it would be good to find that the stuff is lethal to woodworms as they try to make their 'Great Escape'. Considering the vast amount of wood (apart from the block walls) that you have there that needs treatment, I would see if I could buy the poison in bulk (like 50 gal. drums of it), dig in for the long battle, do a lot of reconnoitering with a good, strong beam flashlight for evidence of boreholes, and lay out an intensive, thorough battle-plan. The 'Armageddon Approach' over here in the U.S. would be to hire a specialist company whose plan of attack is to littorally bag the entire structure in an air tight tent, and then pump in a toxic atmosphere to bugs and leave the apparatus there under a positive pressure for days (weeks ?); this being done while the human occupants are residing elsewhere! :lol_hitti

Extreme measures are sometimes called for against the insect world; remember that THEY outnumber us 'billions to one', so we have to fight dirty to not only win the battle, but also the war! Good Luck, and be merciless!:evil:
 
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lmb

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Thanks Omphaloskeptic - that has spurred me on to continue the battle with renewed vigour!

The other issue I had with the barn was that the roller door in the garage section was quite old and worn. You can see it on the right in the earlier pictures and the alumin(i)um colour didn't really match the rest of the barn well. Here it is viewed from the inside in its raised position:

roll1_zps405879ef.jpg


The worst problem though was that it didn't have any springing mechanism in it, so it was very heavy to get the first part open. Having shattered both my elbows in a bicycle accident not long before we moved in I found it pretty hard to heave the thing open and sometimes it came out of the runners a bit and jammed and took me a few minutes with a crowbar to get it set straight again. Also if you didn't fully open it it wasn't balanced properly and there was a risk that the whole thing would unroll and come crashing down. I got locked inside once or twice and had to wait to be rescued when someone finally came out of the house looking for me :lol: If you did open it fully you could be sure it wouldn't unroll unexpectedly but the opening is very high and you would then need a step to reach up and grab it and pull it down again.

After a numbers of months wrestling with it I decided I should look into a new roller door, which I was trying to resist as I thought it would be very expensive. I figured it would be quite tricky to get it to fit the opening I had as it wasn't a standard size. I spoke to a firm that supply the doors only and they helped me through the process and said that basically the door could be made for any size I wanted, but I needed to be sure I had the correct space around the doorway/frame. In the end I decided to err on the side of caution and construct a frame inside the door which would mean I could mount the runners behind it and have more control over their position and also not need the runners to be screwed onto the fixed blockwork. I figured some 3x3 should do the job and did a trial fit with some fence posts that I had lying around:

roll2_zps4f41bbfb.jpg


I made sure that the cars went through the opening easily enough with the trial fence posts in place as I was losing a few inches of width compared to the original size of the opening as the runners were previously mounted straight onto the sides of the blockwork. Once the door was delivered I bought some very long fence posts and cut them to size, stained them black to match the barn and then fitted a Hormann roller door inside. I had to do the job non-stop in a weekend as obviously once I removed the old roller door the garage was unsecure until I had the new door in its place and closed. Here's the final result:

roll3_zps9ee4f6cb.jpg


I think it blends in with the slightly old look of the barn better. It is also insulated and the best bit is that it comes with a radio remote control so my poor arms now have a rest from trying to lever the thing open. I can even open it as I come down the drive in the car and don't even need to get out, or if I'm going out I can close it behind me without having to stop and get out and do that. I know from seeing garages in the US that they nearly all have this feature but it is less common to have electric opening here in the UK so I'm quite chuffed with it. Since I did all the fitting myself the cost wasn't much more than a standard 7x7 garage door and fitting would have been if I had got a company in to do it.

When I get some more time I'll make up more wood weatherboard of the correct width to completely cover over the fence posts on either side, so it will blend in even better with the door just seeming to 'float' behind the front of the barn, but it is working fine now so that particular job is a way down the priority list at the moment!
 

Omphaloskeptic

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Is that new wood treated against the 'Invasion of the Wood Worm'?! :willy_nil

The new door does look good and the fact that you did it yourself, you should feel "quite chuffed with it". :thumbup:
 
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lmb

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Is that new wood treated against the 'Invasion of the Wood Worm'?! :willy_nil

Yes, they have been pressure treated. Also I have painted the outside of them with a couple of coats of black wood preservative/stain, and will do a couple more coats before the weatherboard goes over the top of them. They should be very unappealing to woodworm! Since they are intended to be used as fence posts they should survive a number of years buried in soil, so sitting where they are on top of nice dry concrete they should last a very long time indeed (I hope!)
 
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lmb

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Here's a picture of the new door taken from the inside. You can see that the roller is all boxed in when raised now - looks pretty neat and tidy. I guess it helps prevents any rain that might be on the outside of the door dripping into the garage when you have raised it.

roll4_zps046afdcc.jpg
 

GBsnoopy

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Really liking the clock i may have to get one of those.
Nice roller door from a good company.
Ive got an electric door but now wish i had made the driveway gates electric too as i have to get back out to open and close them. Sort of defeated the idea of having the door electric really.
:lol_hitti
 
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lmb

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Nice roller door from a good company.
Ive got an electric door but now wish i had made the driveway gates electric too as i have to get back out to open and close them. Sort of defeated the idea of having the door electric really.

I don't stick the daily driver in the garage (in fact I'm on my bicycle most days, so technically don't have a daily driver, but my wife uses a car most days, which is just left outside in all weathers) so don't have the same problem and often we leave the gates open all day but getting an electric opener is on my 'to do' list. I think I'll probably go for Hormann again because it can use the same remote control unit and also they do a battery powered opener so I don't need to worry about running electricity out to the gate. I need to do a fair bit of measuring first though to decide which of their systems I need to buy for the size of gate I have but I may get around to it this year sometime!
 
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John in OH

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You've done a great job with the barn transformation! Really like how nice and bright you've made the insides. Except for your wormy little friends, it appears that you were quite fortunate to find a barn in such good structural condition. Most old barns seem to be cursed with rotten wood, sagging rafters, leaky siding, crooked framing, crumbing foundations, and heaved and broken concrete floors (if concrete at all !!). Looks like a great job!!

Did you need to do any electrical service upgrades to the barn, such as new electrical service or new circuit breaker box?

Actually, I like the stalls along the left side as they give character to the old structure. Other than perhaps cleaning them up and giving them your white paint job and/or new lockable doors, I think I would leave them as-is. They'll make good storage areas for those things you don't want cluttering up your garage spaces such as lawn maintenance equipment, kids bikes and toys, and general junk ... not to mention your chicken!
 
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lmb

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Most old barns seem to be cursed with rotten wood, sagging rafters, leaky siding, crooked framing, crumbing foundations, and heaved and broken concrete floors (if concrete at all !!).

The foundations seem good and generally it seems pretty solid, with a blockwork structure but outer wooden weatherboard cladding for the more 'classic' look. It is not actually very old - maybe 20-25 years old I guess. There are a few leaks in the roof but I know where to place the buckets to catch the drips now and I hope to put a new roof on it later this year.

Did you need to do any electrical service upgrades to the barn, such as new electrical service or new circuit breaker box?

Not yet. The electrical supply to the house actually went through the barn, although since we had an extension to the house built we now have a wire direct to the house from the meter. The circuit breaker box in the barn is pretty old - a converted 3-phase unit my electrician tells me - but I did manage to find a new breaker to fit to wire in my compressor. The house had a brand new MCB fitted as part of the work and I asked to keep the old one as it is a much more modern breaker box with RCD, etc. so I will be fitting that in the barn in due course (another job on the long list!)

Actually, I like the stalls along the left side as they give character to the old structure. Other than perhaps cleaning them up and giving them your white paint job and/or new lockable doors, I think I would leave them as-is. They'll make good storage areas for those things you don't want cluttering up your garage spaces such as lawn maintenance equipment, kids bikes and toys, and general junk ... not to mention your chicken!

Yes, one of them is filled with the lawn maintenance stuff at the moment. Another is where the chicken lives. The kids bikes and other general stuff aren't really an issue as I have somewhere else to store them - all will be revealed in the future ;)
 
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lmb

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I thought I'd post up some close up pictures of the storage units that I have in the workshop area.

I have five of these stainless steel cabinets mounted up on the wall:

stor1_zpsedc4ac6c.jpg


They allow me to hide away most of my everyday use stuff - one has all my polishes, waxes and car cleaning products in it. Another has all the little bits off the go kart and race car. Each unit was bought from Costco one day when I saw them in there and thought they would be ideal for my garage (even though I didn't have a space big enough to be able to put them all up at the time). They mount to the wall very securely hanging on a brace plate that is bolted to the blockwork with about 6 bolts, so I feel pretty comfortable storing anything I want inside them and a load more weight on top!

Then I have three of these rolling cabinet units:

stor2_zps1c7d611f.jpg


Again, made of stainless steel, made by the same manufacturer and so matching the wall units. These have a wooden worktop on top of them. They are quite handy to have around as I can create a flexible workspace anywhere in the workshop area by just rolling them all into a line, or when I have been cutting the 8x4 plywood sheets for the ceilings I have been moving them further apart so that the wood can span the three of them and I can saw off the extra sheet overhanging them. I also store various tools, sandblasting medium and car parts in them.
 
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lmb

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We had a fair bit of wind here the other week. I put a clock up at the top of the barn a few years ago and it has weathered a few storms but the gusts the other day nearly blew it off. It was lucky the bottom screw held and the lamp housing was in the way to support it a bit when it dropped:



I fixed it back in position and thought that whilst I was up on the ladder I would put some new batteries in it as the time wasn't correct, and we changed to British Summer Time a couple of weeks ago. I noticed the hour hands were loose and weren't turning properly as the minutes progressed so the whole thing had to come down again and I dismantled the faces and fixed the hands to their spindles properly. Then up the ladder again and screwed it back into place:



I might go back up there again and fit some sort of bracing across the bracket as I think it could still be susceptible to strong winds hitting the faces of the clock as it will try to twist the bracket.
 

Omphaloskeptic

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I wouldn't worry too much about it falling down; after all, everyone says "Time flies"! lol

Nice looking clock by the way. I'm assuming it is a modern reproduction of a double-faced clock and is fairly weather-proof. Who is the manufacturer, if you recall?
 
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lmb

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Yes, it is a modern repro of an old double-faced station clock. It has temperature and humidity gauges on it too, but you can't really see them too well from the ground, but I liked the overall look of it and it was pretty cheap. When you open up the clock in the middle of the two faces there is a mechanism for each side, so you could even use it as a 'world clock' with two different timezones I suppose! The mechanisms look pretty cheap - like the thing you would find in an alarm clock with a knob to turn to adjust the time. I don't know the manufacturer - there is nothing marked on it apart from 'Made In China'!
 
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lmb

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I bought them from a warehouse-type retailer that is big in the US, and more recently set up in the UK, called Costco. They were a very good price - about HK$600 per unit if I remember correctly. I have never seen a Costco branch in Hong Kong (I used to live there and have family in Chai Wan) but I think the manufacturer was Whalen, which I believe is based in China so you may still be able to find a distributor in HK or can call them directly. I can possibly find a box or some paperwork that came with them to confirm the model number and address of the manufacturer if that would be useful for you?
 

felixgogo

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Thanks - yes Ollie is right - I am interested in the Uk price and supply, I'll check out Costco - didn't realise they had a UK presence.

Cheers!
 
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lmb

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Costco have been around in the Uk for years, I've been a member for at least a decade if not longer.

I just checked my membership card too and it says I have been a member since 2004, and I think they were going here for a number of years before that, so yes, more than a decade now.

Thanks - yes Ollie is right - I am interested in the Uk price and supply, I'll check out Costco - didn't realise they had a UK presence.

Sorry felix, I have read your "Mews" thread before but forgot when I saw your location as HK. Do you still spend much time over there now? I bought the cabinets a few years ago and know I bought up their remaining supply at the time (had to go to two different stores - the first and only time I went to one of them as my local store said that one still had some stock there) and I'm afraid I haven't seen anything similar for sale there since. They do sell some quite nice tool roller cabinets sometimes though... My two you can see in the workshop pics came from there too.
 

felixgogo

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Yes - In HK for considerable amounts of time since 2006, hence missing the whole UK Costco presence.

No worries - I've checked their website, and they do not appear to do those cabinets any more. I'll go back to the original plan to make my own I think.

I have really got on well with the Kreg pocket hole jig system, which makes building cabinets from sheet materials very straightforward and quick. So I will investigate using this method to build them.

I am very envious of the space you have in your barn, its a great set up you have there.

Ian
 
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lmb

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Great Barn you have there any chance of some more car pics

Ha, the car pics! Well I can tell from your thread that you are probably most interested in the Mini, so I'll start with that one. The problem is that it is in a barn that I haven't yet finished or posted any updates on, but I suppose I can post that up in due course so here are the pics of the car for the moment...

mini1_zps4fd8633f.jpg


mini2_zps5f3fd958.jpg


mini3_zps55252c1e.jpg
 
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lmb

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Here's one of my other cars. I have owned this car for more than 16 years. It started off as a second hand Clio 16 valve model I bought when I moved back to the UK. I used to race it in sprints and hillclimbs for many years and then as I moved on to other cars I decided that I needed to make some improvements to it to improve its capabilities.

IMG_6426_zpsea46b80f.jpg


The original 1.8 litre engine was removed and a 2-litre engine from the Clio Williams was installed. This engine was then heavily modified with new pistons, conrods, camshafts and individual throttle bodies. A bespoke engine management system was added. The engine now makes around 200 bhp and 170 lb/ft torque.

IMG_6424_zps639b18f6.jpg


The car was stripped out and some of the panels replaced with fibreglass and all the windows apart from the windscreen were replaced with plexiglass. I managed to shed over 200 kg (~450 lbs?) from the weight of the car so it now weighs less than 800 kg!
 

T.E.D. Jordan

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Cumbria, UK
This thread is awesome, love it.

Uk builds seem to draw a crowd of patriots lol, nice to see a few builds racking up on here, especially one of your size.

Get throwing pics/ updates up on here!

Jordan
 
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