hello brothers ! got a ? whats best way to construct a 32 beam with two 2x12s with post 8ft oc.? is do i stagger the joints on making this beam or can i have two 16 ft 2x12s sitting on 6x6 and another 16 foot to end post to finish 32 ft?thanks
32foot beam
- Thread starter pjboy
- Start date
nadogail
Well-known member
How long are the 2X12's? What do you have to join them? How much weight will they be supporting?
gregtwojeeps
Well-known member
Assuming you have determined the load ? Usually we used 3 - 2 x12's....
Does not matter really, set them all **** ended on a 6" x 6" post ...then slip your other posts on 8 ' centers in place under the beam plumbed up. When over lapping the joists, (staggered) it helps keep the beam from moving around while building on it. (assuming you will have floor joists on the beam) ? The beam has to be braced anyway to build on it, so **** them up and use 4 - 16 ft. joists and not have to splice them. JMO
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Yep ! Just make sure you beam rests ON TOP of OR in a notch cut INTO the post.
8' o.c. post, 2 - 2x12 is probably good.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Probably good for what? You have no idea as to what the application is and you're saying he's good to go??
gregtwojeeps
Well-known member
The OP is vague as to the application of his beam.... it could be a outdoor deck or foundation floor support ?? I will choose the latter for one application. ...
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Like I said either way is fine, however a staggered joint beam will always be more stable than a but ended beam. Notice that I said stable not stronger.
By staggering the joints you are making it into one long bean verses several short beams.
The front beam on my loft is 2 2x12's with 3/4 cdx ply glued, screwed and bolted together for a 19 foot free span. The joints are staggered.
The main beam in my shop is 3 2x14's with 2 layers of 3/4 ply glued, screwed and bolted, 32 foot span with a center post it supports the entire roof.
When using **** jointed beam it can move more making the build more difficult.
gregtwojeeps
Well-known member
Agreed, as I stated that in my first post and only making reference to what the OP has said. Beam prep applications will vary. THe OP 's beam will have to have diagonal supports against the support posts anyway ....plus while the joists/floor system is put on it anyway. Kind of a engine vs. motor debate really as both ways work.
When we framed a house coming out of a basement or crawl ...we would always stagger the joists on a support beam. My brothers choice and he was a framing perfectionist... in his own right. . The beam really cannot move, once the floor joists are put on it. None of us still really know how and what the beam is doing in the OP ... JMO
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gregtwojeeps
Well-known member
Then the 2 x 12's are being used for a rim or band ? You need drop the 2 x 12 's down on the sides of the 6" x 6"' posts, in notches preferred with bolts through them. . Don't just set the band joists on top of the posts as my sketch shows as it is for a basement or crawlspace application. `. . JMO
I linked your old thread about a rim /band.............
http://http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=309233&highlight=rim+band
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AMCguy
Well-known member
I would think they should be staggered. If they were all butted and a post was accidentally hit and taken out, wouldn't there be a potential for a collapse?
rayra
Well-known member
yes.
If you **** together over a post, you better use some strong T-strapping. Better to stagger and still use mechanical attachment to the posts.
mikefromme
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2009
- Messages
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They make 2x12's in lengths longer then 16'. Order two 16's a 24' and a 8'.
Or see if they can get you 32' lengths...
Or see if they can get you 32' lengths...
DonPowers
Well-known member
rayra
Well-known member
stagger the joints in a 50% overlap and it doesn't matter much what lengths you use. Just glue and screw / bolt in a staggered fashion down the whole length.
And lay your planks so the grain cupping faces out )(, rather than in (). Not that it matters much, your glue and staggered fasteners are going to keep that wood pretty flat as it cures in the hot peak of your roof anyway.
/I can't hear the keening outrage of structural engineers, it's like a dog whistle
And lay your planks so the grain cupping faces out )(, rather than in (). Not that it matters much, your glue and staggered fasteners are going to keep that wood pretty flat as it cures in the hot peak of your roof anyway.
/I can't hear the keening outrage of structural engineers, it's like a dog whistle
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csp
Well-known member
What is this, the fourth or fifth thread about this rim band?