32x24 garage build

[willlgord]

I've been a lurker on this site for quite a while while I was going through the planning stages and construction of my garage project and this site's been a big help. I've never posted before but will have to put up some of my pictures from learning how to run a backhoe to the stage I'm at now....roofing and doors. I've attached a jpg of the plans I drew up.

I have a question about the garage door header, I'm starting to figure out how to frame the opening for my 18x8 foot overhed door. The building is 32x24 with a second floor which is supported by three W10-22 steel I beams one of which is over the door opening so the door header will not be bearing any load of the structure. Can I get by with a 2x6 header tied to the beam above it? The only loads would be the door itself and it seems to me that by being tied into the beam it would prevent any sag.

Thoughts?

Thanks, Bill

 

[sierradmax]

It doesn't appear to be load bearing with the steel beam spanning the full 24' width. Why not pad out the bottom of the beam with 2x4's to get the desired rough opening for the 18x8? You might be hard pressed to find a 18'-6' 2x6

 

[willlgord]

I faced both sides of the beam with 2x8's bolted to the web and a 2x12 nailed to that over the front side to fasten the siding to. I also have a 2x10 across the bottom of the beam which is nailed to one side of the 2x12 on the front, the other side of the 2x10 reaches far enough to fasten to the bottom floor joists. What I've done is box the whole beam in with 2x's so I can nail to it. I'm planning to nail short jack studs between the header and the bottom of the beam. I figure that since the header will be basically non-supportive I can piece it together with 4 2x6's sandwiched.

 

[JohnnieMo]

I'm curious to know more about your roof construction. Based on the design, you don't have a truss in there... just a 2x8 and a fairly steep slope. Is that enough to support the roof?

I ask because I'm looking to create storage up there as well, and I'm looking at a storage/attic truss, and I didn't think what you've done is possible.

 

[willlgord]

According to my engineer 2x8 rafters are good. What's not shown which will add support are the collar ties which will be installed in the upper third of the rafters and possibly knee walls. As far as being possible, it's already done. That's the way roofs were built before they invented trusses.

 

[sierradmax]

Curious if you did a cost evaluation. You say 2x8's 16" O.C.. Those will have to be 18'+ rafters.. With a ridge, & knee wall. Did you see how much 24' attic trusses cost delivered? I'm getting 30' trusses for $175 and will be spanning 24" O.C. You could also get away from using LVL's and 2x12's for 2nd floor support. Just sit the bottom cord flush with the wall sill and/or steel beam.

Also.. Although OSB sheathing for roof is fine. IMO, cdx is better.

 

[willlgord]

I never did get a quote on trusses, I wanted the maximum amount of space possible on the second floor.... by the way I had to change the roof pitch to 11-12 (18' was a bit short for 12-12). The 18' 2x8's cost $15-$16 each so they totaled around $800 and I did use 7/16 OSB on the roof.

Regarding the second floor, I made a couple of changes compared to the drawing. I ended up facing all the I beams with 2x8's bolted through the web and used joist hangers with 2x10 joists 24" on center. On top of the joists is 3/4 OSB subfloor. The 24" on center will allow me to fit 2x4 4 bulb T8 fluorescent fixtures flush with the sheetrock.

As a side note, I used this link to pattern my rafter cuts and also the stringers for my stairs. It worked like a charm!

http://www.blocklayer.com/Default.aspx