32x32 pole building

[JF1]

I'm planning on building a 32x32 heated pole building on my location. I've researched pole building vs the stick frame thing, and for me, the pole building is the way to go since I can do all of the work myself. I do have a few questions though.

I was planning on placing my poles (4x6's or 6x6's) 4'OC, however everything I'm seeing/reading has them placed 8-10'. is 4' overkill? I'm not planning on placing a second floor on the garage, just 10' ceiling height with prefab 4/12 trusses.

I am planning on one 16' garage door for the two cars, and one 9' door for my boat. Initially I wanted doors on the truss end, not the gable end to better match the house. After drawing this up, I'm not really sure that will be possible, due to 16'span of the door. Should I re-configure so the doors are on the gable end, or am I over thining this?

Has anyone used perma columns http://www.permacolumn.com/ , or their mounting brackets http://www.permacolumn.com/sw/index.htm ? I was considering using their brackets, mounting into a sauna tube, then framing my posts off of that. This would eliminate the ground contact of any lumber.

End result is going to be vinyl sided outside, insulated w/heat, probably drywall 4' from floor for fire reasons, and pegboard/plywood on the rest of the walls.

I forgot to add, I am in Northeastern Ohio, so yes we do get snow.

Thanks,

Jason

 

[Wardster]

I used something similar to the permacolumn system (mine is made by Simpson Strong-Tie) because I did not want my post buried. I think 4'OC is overkill, but 8'OC would work really well for drywall and peg board.

I used 6x6 treated posts at 8' centers using the ties from Simpson and could not be more pleased. Those 80 MPH winds we got when remnants of Ike came through central Ohio were the biggest test to date and everything was fine. Since you are insulating, it may be a good idea to tighten up your truss spacing to 2'OC. That makes insulating easy and will help carry the snow loading you see in NE Ohio.

-Wardster

 

[voetsek]

8' is just fine. 4' really is overkill. What are you planning on using the extra post for? They are there to hold up the trusses and connect the girts for the wall together. You won't want to pay the extra $$ for extra trusses, so why pay for the extra poles. It is typical pole barn practice to use 8' or wider pole widths.

 

[JF1]

I'v always just been an "overbuildit" kind of person. I've never built a pole building before, always done a foundation and stickframe. I guess I was just concerned about it bearing the weight and wind.

That's why I'm concerned about not putting the garage doors on the gable end of the garage. With the design I want, there will be a 16'span without a post, and this would now be a load bearing wall. Is this a valid concern? I have a book w/ the design I want, but it is only 24'deep. The added 8' span is what concerns me. If that makes any sense.

 

[Wardster]

That's why I'm concerned about not putting the garage doors on the gable end of the garage. With the design I want, there will be a 16'span without a post, and this would now be a load bearing wall. Is this a valid concern?

I have two 16' spans on my barn with hanging sliders that I open up throughout the year and I also have two regular garage doors on the gable end. My guys used a double 2x12 for the span, but you could use a microlam if you wanted to. It has worked out great and I really like the idea of being able to open the building up, especially during the summer.

-Wardster

 

[JF1]

Thanks for your help and insight, I appreciate it.

 

[toadjammer]

JF1,
On the gable ends the load is carried to the sides by the truss. So when you put the doors on a gble end all you are suporting is the wieght above the door. For the most part this is fairly limited.

 

[Mike in Ohio]

Where are you at in Ne Ohio? I'm just south of Canton. I am just finishing up a 30 by 44 with a 16 foot door in the side supporting the trusses. Tha lumber yard spec'ed a double thicknes s 11 7/8 laminated beam. I put 6x6s at the corners and on both sides of the big door 4x6s everwhere else 8' on center.Inspecter is coming tomorrow so I guess we'll see what I screwed up. Stark county building inspecters seem to be pretty good to deal with, at least they were when I built my house 6 years ago. Good luck, Mike

 

[Sundowner]

I buily my pole building with 6x6's at 4' centers. yes, it's overkill, but it makes life easier when you go to sheathe the building with something like T-111

 

[JF1]

Where are you at in Ne Ohio? I'm just south of Canton. I am just finishing up a 30 by 44 with a 16 foot door in the side supporting the trusses. Tha lumber yard spec'ed a double thicknes s 11 7/8 laminated beam. I put 6x6s at the corners and on both sides of the big door 4x6s everwhere else 8' on center.Inspecter is coming tomorrow so I guess we'll see what I screwed up. Stark county building inspecters seem to be pretty good to deal with, at least they were when I built my house 6 years ago. Good luck, Mike

I'm in the Niles area. I'm still in the planning phases, trying to get cost figured out so I know how much $ to squirrel away, actual production won't take place until spring. 6x6's at the corners, as well as around the garage doors, and 4x6's would save some cost. Please, keep me posted as to what the building inspector says.

What pitch roof did you go w/? My house is only 18' tall, and I don't want the garage to overpower the house, but the more I think about it a 4/12 pitch might not be enough. I may step up to a 6/12.

Also, Mike if you don't mind, could you give me an idea what the lam cost? You can Pm me if you'd like.

 

[JF1]

I buily my pole building with 6x6's at 4' centers. yes, it's overkill, but it makes life easier when you go to sheathe the building with something like T-111

I plan on covering the exterior with vinyl siding, so that won't be an issue. I'll simply cover w/ OSB, then side.