35 x 55 x 12 metal post building

[sbash]

Hi all! I thought I would start a thread detailing my garage build. Although I picked the flattest section of my back yard (didn't want it to be too close to the house), it took 17 tri-axle dump truck loads of dirt and 110 tons of gravel to get a level pad and appropriate slope.

A little about the building- 35' x 55' with 12' walls, 6:12 roof pitch, 1' overhang on sides plus gutters, 2' overhang on gable ends, man door in front, 2- 10' x 12' insulated CHI doors, color is light stone and clay. I'll add more details as I get into the project.

Morton Buildings is over 150 miles from my area. The ex- Morton rep is now in with WW Buildings and they look to be on par with each other. The structure will be put up by WW Buildings (http://wwbuildings.com) out of Pembroke, KY. I've looked at a few of their buildings and they all look nice.

This is the first step of many. No doubt, I'll be on here often.

I debated about the dimensions. Any comments on how it should look? I was hoping not to look too skinny and tall. What do you think?

Regards.

 

[36truck]

No water issues there. Looking good so far. Nice site work.

 

[sbash]

Some more progress pictures. I still have lots left to go. Water, electrical, gutters, shutters to name a few. We had one hiccup in the construction. I asked for double bubble insulation on the whole building and then also to have "book shelving" interior just in case I ever wanted to put in batt insulation. I received double bubble on the roof, but not on the sides. Now I'm wondering how much of a detriment that will be. Can I just put in batt insulation and cover it with walls and not worry about a vapor barrier? From my understanding, since I'm in KY and it is HUMID beyond belief, the vapor barrier would need to be on the outer wall. Your thought?

 

[sbash]

On the night before the concrete pour, I decided on a 6" slab rather than 4". I also had Wirand Steel fibers added to the concrete. A lot of folk around here will try to talk you into fiberglass only, but I don't put a lot of stock into it. Rebar or metal grid may have been just as good or even better, but only if the folks placing the concrete do it right. With the Wirand fibers, I didn't have to worry so much about that as long as the concrete got vibrated well enough to push any stray fibers down below the cream prior to finishing.

 

[Capstone]

Certainly looks well designed and executed so far to me. I'd never heard of Wirand Steel fibers before, so that's one more thing I've learned today. How does it compare cost-wise to a re-bar grid? I assume labor is the big cost on the latter, so did you calculate the cost/benefit?

Thanks for sharing

 

[bop_pa]

Without getting too deep in your business, can you share with us a sense of the price you paid from them. The shop looks first class.

 

[sbash]

Without getting too deep in your business, can you share with us a sense of the price you paid from them. The shop looks first class.

Building as it stands plus gutters, shutters, 3 insulated chi doors, openers on the large doors, and double bubble insulation on roof and batting insulation for the rest, plus concrete and we are somewhere around $35k. I've got about $10k more in dirtwork. About another 6k more if I want to clad ceiling and walls to finish interior. I haven't priced lights and electrical, but will probably do that myself.

I'd never heard of Wirand Steel fibers before, so that's one more thing I've learned today. How does it compare cost-wise to a re-bar grid? I assume labor is the big cost on the latter, so did you calculate the cost/benefit?

It compares well. It adds about $15 per cubic yard of concrete. I put in 39 yards, so roughly $600. A little more than the wire grid and less than a rebar mat on 2' centers looking at materials only. There is no extra labor associated with the steel fibers, but using a vibrating screed is required in order to push the wires down below the "creme" while the concrete is being struck off. Since using a vibrating screed is requires less time and far less energy than manually screeding it, I'd say the $100 bucks or so that it cost to rent would be more than paid for in labor savings if your cost was calculated by the hour.

 

[sbash]

Total of 96 4" T8 tubes.

A few thoughts:

Scissor lift, although a little expensive to rent, sure is better than scaffolding.

I'm dreading the process of getting all of the dirt/mud off of floor. If I decide to grind or shot peen the floor, is it necessary to get it very clean before hand?

Perforated, accoustical metal placed from 8 feet and up. I'm not sure how much difference it actually makes and since I don't have plastic wrap on the building, I'm wondering if it is a detriment to the insulative properties?

 

[36truck]

How did you get so much dirt & mud inside? Looks very bright with your lighting.

 

[sbash]

How did you get so much dirt & mud inside? Looks very bright with your lighting.

Contractor installed interior when it was too muddy to work elsewhere! I've even been cleaning dirt/mud off of the ceiling.

 

[Aceman]

Looks good. I will say the last truck shop I wired with the interior all finished in metal liner panel the sound echoed like crazy when hammering, etc.

Is it pretty loud in yours too?

 

[sbash]

I put up some 12 volt LED soffit lights also (shown before shutters installed).

 

[sbash]

Looks good. I will say the last truck shop I wired with the interior all finished in metal liner panel the sound echoed like crazy when hammering, etc.

Is it pretty loud in yours too?

I wouldn't say that it is overly loud. Maybe I was expecting more of a reduction in sound like when you walk into a room lined with acoustical sound absorbers. There are certain spots in the building where you can clap your hands and hear just a short reverb.

 

[country boy]

what kinda 12 volt lights ?

I put up some 12 volt LED soffit lights also (shown before shutters installed).

 

[Merbesfield]

Old thread, how about an update? Sadly, prices have probably 4X+ since your build.