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36x36 Barn Plus 60x40 Shop

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mtechgunman

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Looking good. I imagine your ag use and don't have to deal with permitting? Should be some very nice work space and never hurts to keep the wife happy with a little horse heaven. I built a ground up 69 charger for a friend many yrs ago. Need to get some of my old school photo's scanned. Have a great New Year and keep us posted. Mike

I am not ag use unfortunately, but permitting in Wyoming is a piece of cake.

I went down to the county with a single sheet of paper and $25 for each building and the next day they issued my permits.

Would love to see the Charger!
 
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mtechgunman

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Found a barely used Lincoln 275 Tig welder for sale, so I made a 711 mile round trip saturday to pick it up.

This thing is a beast!

 

nsula_country

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That is a sweet welder! I'm sure it was "A Good Deal" to make a 700 mile trip for it. Congrats. Having AC will be handy for aluminium.

Questions for you...

Do you like the LED's? I looked up the specs on them. They may be an option for my lighting situation.

What spacing did you place the LED lights at?

What is the light to floor distance?

Have you used a Lux or Lumens meter to check your output? (I actually bought one in a pawn shop, nerdy I know...)

I'm in the process of building a shop as well. Its a 40x60 with a 30x60 lean to so basically a 70x60. I have several ideas for lighting. This is another possibility.

Enjoy!

CT
 
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mtechgunman

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Nsula-

The LED's are awesome. So awesome that I returned 30 T8 fixtures after I got 4 of these up.

They are hung at 13', 8'x10' and it seems to work really well. I just hung the last 5 in the front of the shop but I won't wire them till we get some warmer weather.

The welder is awesome! I've never tig welded before so it will be a steep learning curve but I'm starting to figure it out. Here's a first test weld.




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mtechgunman

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For clarification- 13' high, 8'x10' apart from one another. Using the program found here, it should be about 90 lumens/sq ft.


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mtechgunman

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While hanging the last 5 lights, I also put in two speakers. Very happy that I ran wire for these. It's those little details that really make it all come together.




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SEV22XS

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Heck of place your building. Is building rifles just a hobby ? Which are of Wyoming are you from ?
 
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mtechgunman

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Heck of place your building. Is building rifles just a hobby ? Which are of Wyoming are you from ?

We live in Cody.

The rifle building is just a hobby, but we hope to make a living at it someday. In all honesty, I've never done the machine work on them before! So I need to find out if I'm any good at it. Its something I've always wanted to do and it's been a long time coming really. I won't be quitting my day job anytime soon though ;)
 

nsula_country

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Looking like a dose of awesomeness there. I like using square tubing too. Good stuff! Did you use your TIG on it?


Ok, mtechgunman... more questions.

Floor coating. What did you use?

How was your experience installing it?

Are you pleased with the results?

Would you use it again?


The reason I am asking a lot of questions are I don't know what to do... Leave it bare, clear sealer, epoxy paint/coatings???

I'm sure that at least a clear sealer will be beneficial to prevent oils and such from staining the floor. But I believe that they need to be reapplied occasionally.

Epoxies and paints are nice, but can and will chip. I'm sure welding, fabricating, and mechanical work will wreck havoc on the floor.

Thanks!

CT
 
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mtechgunman

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Nsula-

Haven't used the tig on the workbenches yet. I'll use it for some parts, but mig is just so much faster. And Mig welding is clean too if done correctly.

The product I used is Rust-Oleum 2 part epoxy. This is the second time I've used this product, so obviously I'd do it again.

The first time worked great, held up very well, even with fabrication/welding over the top of it. Sure, you'll end up with some marks in it, but I never expected it to remain in perfect shape. Welding splatter will mark/burn it, but all of the instances for me where small marks and they never snowballed into a larger problem of peeling, chipping or flaking.

It never has chipped or flaked on me (the old building, this one is too new), and I attribute that to the acid etching that they require before hand. This has to be done, otherwise it will not last.

I am a big fan of the epoxy because if oil is spilled on it, you can simply wipe it up. It could be there a week and it'd still wipe right up, you'd never even know it was there.

The toughest part of epoxies/paints is having the discipline to do it correctly, and actually get it done. When it comes time to install the epoxy, your building is so close to being ready for use that all you want to do is forget about it. Twice now I've had to force myself into using it, both times I've been extremely happy that I did. Definitely adds a professional feel to the building.
 

nsula_country

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Nsula-

Haven't used the tig on the workbenches yet. I'll use it for some parts, but mig is just so much faster. And Mig welding is clean too if done correctly.

The product I used is Rust-Oleum 2 part epoxy. This is the second time I've used this product, so obviously I'd do it again.

The first time worked great, held up very well, even with fabrication/welding over the top of it. Sure, you'll end up with some marks in it, but I never expected it to remain in perfect shape. Welding splatter will mark/burn it, but all of the instances for me where small marks and they never snowballed into a larger problem of peeling, chipping or flaking.

It never has chipped or flaked on me (the old building, this one is too new), and I attribute that to the acid etching that they require before hand. This has to be done, otherwise it will not last.

I am a big fan of the epoxy because if oil is spilled on it, you can simply wipe it up. It could be there a week and it'd still wipe right up, you'd never even know it was there.

The toughest part of epoxies/paints is having the discipline to do it correctly, and actually get it done. When it comes time to install the epoxy, your building is so close to being ready for use that all you want to do is forget about it. Twice now I've had to force myself into using it, both times I've been extremely happy that I did. Definitely adds a professional feel to the building.

Thanks mtech-

I am getting closer to closing it in. I still need to order doors and install them. I still need to get power out there and hang lights #1!

I have been restraining myself from putting ANYTHING under roof until I decided on floor coatings or leave it raw. I was leaning towards the Rust-Oleum products. Facilities at the plant I work at has been using it exclusively for colored walkways, fork lift lanes and in some of the labs. Our Facilities Engineer gave me the contact info for our coatings rep. I'll call him and pick his brain.

I DO KNOW the acid prep is a crucial step. Especially on older, used, dirty, oily concrete (ie, like a manufacturing plant) and if not done, will not last.

I was just concerned about chips turning into flakes, turning into nasty holes in the finish. I'm not going for a Barrett-Jackson quality shop here.Just something to keep the floor clean, protected, and do it on budget.

Thanks again!

I'm following your build. Keep the pics coming!!

CT
 
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mtechgunman

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Rust-Oleum has a polycuramine product that is exactly twice as expensive as their epoxy that I wanted to try, but I ended up going to easy route. Easy because the epoxy was on the shelf at Home Depot and I had to order the Poly. It's supposed to be stronger but also has the benefit of being able to be applied at lower temps I think.
 

nsula_country

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Good tip. I believe I will just use the epoxy. Its easy and cheaper and looks better than clear sealer. I'll just need 2400 sq/ft worth!

Keep up the progress... It means new pictures!

CT
 
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mtechgunman

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Good tip. I believe I will just use the epoxy. Its easy and cheaper and looks better than clear sealer. I'll just need 2400 sq/ft worth!

Keep up the progress... It means new pictures!

CT

Will do! I'm out of town till thursday. Friday I'll be back on workbench building duty. Pics will follow of course.

FYI the coverage was exactly as advertised. For the 2 car kits it's 500 sq ft. So you'll need 5 of them.
 
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mtechgunman

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Took a little break from workbench construction this morning to ready the sled for a trip this coming week. Drained the old fuel, put in new 100 octane to satisfy the tune and she fired right up. Replaced a destroyed bracket on my gear down kit. This sled rips!



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mtechgunman

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After the Seahawks started losing badly, I went back to the shop to work on benches. Made some good progress!

I finished out the shelving side with some expanded sheet.





Obligatory weld pic






Steel storage has always been a problem in my shops, so I added support bars behind the left toolbox. That will allow me to put steel on the backside of the shelves. It's 11' from the wall to the end of the bench. This will allow me to "hide" steel pretty effectively.







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mtechgunman

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Man this shop is looking good. I love the LED lights but man there $$$

Maybe!

I have 18 fixtures that are rated for 100K hours that cost me $200/each. ($3600)

It would have taken me 51 T8 fixtures to acheive same 106 FC output that would have cost me $32/each with lamps ($1632)

Those 51 fixtures would have burned 3264 watts vs 2358 for the LED's. So I'll have 25% savings on my electricity.

I would have had to replace the T8's probably three times before the LED's went out. Granted, the T8's are cheap to replace.

Most importantly, and I think this point goes un-noticed often as I don't see people talking about it, I would have had to install 33 more fixtures than the simple 18 fixture LED design.

If I'm paying an electrician, his installation costs are likely going to double the cost of each T8 fixture.

So for me, it's a lot closer than the initial price tags would indicate.
 
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nsula_country

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Maybe!

I have 18 fixtures that are rated for 100K hours that cost me $200/each. ($3600)

It would have taken me 51 T8 fixtures to acheive same 106 FC output that would have cost me $32/each with lamps ($1632)

Those 51 fixtures would have burned 3264 watts vs 2358 for the LED's. So I'll have 25% savings on my electricity.

I would have had to replace the T8's probably three times before the LED's went out. Granted, the T8's are cheap to replace.

Most importantly, and I think this point goes un-noticed often as I don't see people talking about it, I would have had to install 33 more fixtures than the simple 18 fixture LED design.

If I'm paying an electrician, his installation costs are likely going to double the cost of each T8 fixture.

So for me, it's a lot closer than the initial price tags would indicate.

I agree 100%

I'm going to try 6 high bay fixtures with 200 watt CFL bulbs. If I don't get at least 60 FC, I'll add 6 more. They are supposed to replace a 400 watt MH... We'll see!

6 fixtures will be a lot easier to install than a **** load of strips. And come in at about $100 each.

CT
 

Bib Overalls

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Agree on the LED lights. Going to change mine out at some point. Will want some professional help with the design so that I get the right number. With T-8s I have used the "if in doubt use more" approach.

Like your workbench with the steel storage. A second vertical would hold keep your steel stacks from splaying out. I have brackets on my wall for the long stuff but storing my shorter "drops" is a problem that I need to solve. Currently using plastic barrels. They work but get to heavy to move when sweeping and have to be unloaded at times to find the right piece.
 

Mike.ASC

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I just found your thread and I really like everything you've done . I'll be incorporating your hidden steel storage idea when my time comes.
 
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mtechgunman

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I can't wait to see the rest of the shop come together. Also I see you got an air line system in there, any details on that?


It's a RapidAir 3/4" Maxline system. They are great systems for reasonable $$$. Bought my master kit on Amazon for $175 shipped.


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mtechgunman

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Tops aren't fully welded in yet but I had to see the toolboxes in place before I head out for sled trip.








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mtechgunman

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Dad lost his battle with cancer last night. Our family spent most of the day planning his memorial service. This afternoon best thing I could think to do was to finish bench top so I could put the toolboxes in place and put the Mach 1 stickers he got me. Miss him already. Life not the same without him.






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Duker

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My condolences to you and your family. Those little remembrances like the stickers can be the best way to deal with the grief as it reminds of us the precious time they shared in our lives.


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mtechgunman

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Thanks fellas. It's been a long year and even though I am going to miss him but I am glad his suffering is over.
 

Stockblock

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Sorry for your loss, I lost my father when he was 57 y/o to a long illness, some of the items like those stickers will become the most important items you'll ever have in your possession. Your buildings are looking great, I enjoy seeing work done as cleanly as yours.
 
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mtechgunman

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Thank you all for the kind words.

We had the memorial service yesterday. It was tough but good. Very proud of dad.

Today I started to teach myself how to cut threads. The lathe was missing a couple of the leveling feet so it only made sense to make some!










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mtechgunman

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Been starting on some gunsmithing projects. I made a thread protector for a barrel I threaded, and a jig for future thread protectors, muzzle brakes etc etc. This one is 5/8-24 on one side and whatever the next thread protector will be on the other side.






The jig works so that I can use my collet attachment instead of rigging a barrel back up in the lathe. I can cut off the metal, thread it then do the rest of the work on the jig. Works really good, just gotta keep that anti-seize on there!










 
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mtechgunman

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I've been needing a sink pretty bad but I hate plumbing so I'd been avoiding it. In order to motivate me, I decided to fabricate one out of metal. I had purchased the stainless sink a few months ago so I just needed the plumbing components and a place to put it.

The metal sheet tops started out as 11 gauge. I set the sink on top, traced around it then used the plasma cutter to cut them out.


Checking fit


Mocking up table


Test fit


Just realized I didn't get the final installed pics. I will grab those here shortly and post them from my phone.
 
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mtechgunman

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A little clean up and she's ready for action! And a finish of choice, too.


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