36x48 finally underway

[jlansaw]

Finally have serious progress after months of talking about it. After shopping several building companies, Morton, Wick, etc., I decided to have this 36x48x10 stick built on a block foundation. The price was about the same and I feel the finished product will be better in the long run. Outside will be two tone metal with metal roof. Inside will be lined with white metal. I backed out of the in floor heat, going to use infrared radiant tube heaters. A bathroom will keep my buddies out of the house and will also give me a place to put the noisy air compressor. The contractor is hand framing a section of the roof to allow clearance for a two post lift. As for lighting, I'm leaning towards 4 lamp T-5 fixtures.

 

[m.james]

A quick solution for a noisy compressor since your in the building stage is to build a shed off the back of the garage and put it in there. The have air hoses go through the walls.

 

[sscustom]

DAMMM THATS BIG nice garage even when its done

 

[pantera1]

Nice!
This is the size we're planning. Please keep the updates coming!

Looks great....a mirror image to our plan

 

[John in OH]

This is going to be a great building! Love the size.

Curious about what appears to be horizontal blocking between the outer wall studs for attachment of the outer steel siding ... is each of those horizontal members an individual piece placed between the studs or are they actually girts attached to outer surface of the studs ... I can't really tell from the photos. If they are individual pieces that must have been a real job installing them all !! Are they 2x4 or 2x6 members?

 

[jlansaw]

Yes, they are individual 2x6 nailers between 2x6 studs for the interior metal liner.

 

[W_A_Watson_II]

I'm running 48 2-tube 4' T-8 Fixtures in my 54' x 44 with a 14' ceiling. People told me I was over lighting it, I disagree, and wish I'd up'ed the count, as after the tubes have some time on them now, the lighting isn't as good as I'd wished.

 

[jlansaw]

I don't think I've heard of anyone ever complain about too much light?

 

[John in OH]

Oh ... the nailers are for the INTERIOR steel liner! Now I'm really curious ... what will the Exterior steel siding panels be attached to? Are planning to nail them directly to the OSB?

I don't mean to imply that attachment to the OSB is a problem ... I've just never seen steel siding installed on a stick frame building so I'm curious as to how it's done. I've only seen it installed on pole buildings where it is nailed to the girts.

 

[jlansaw]

I wanted the "pole building" look without the poles. We live in rural area so I wanted the building to match our house and country setting so I'm stick building and using the metal siding and roofing to easily obtain the colors I want and so it will be maintenance free. I didn't want vinyl siding and I didn't want to paint. Yes the metal will go on over the osb. Should be strong and tight.

 

[W_A_Watson_II]

I wanted the "pole building" look without the poles.

Why was that?

 

[jlansaw]

The building site was not level and would have required alot of fill. Posts would have had to be really long to reach into undisturbed soil on the low side. And besides post tend to rot over time. I went with a block foundation. I brought in over 100 tons of rock for fill before pouring the floor. The foundation is one block higher than the floor keeping the 10' sidewall away from any water as I do alot of washing inside during the winter.

 

[LSVLance]

Looking good. I bet you are hoping to get the roof sheeted before the snow really starts to fly.

What did you do for floor drains considering that you want to wash stuff inside during the winter?

 

[jlansaw]

I worked Saturday and was able to get the roof sheeting on. Monday plans are to finish the overhangs and get roof papered, metal is ordered.

As for drains, I used 48" sections of NDS drain I got at Home Depot. I centered one section 18" back from each 10' door opening and sloped the floor accordingly. The 4' section can be straddled by my vehicle tires and won't have to support vehicle weight even though it probably wouldn't be an issue. I tied them together into 4" pvc and exited through and out the bottom block of the foundation for now.

 

[LSVLance]

I used the same stuff for my drain only I put them all together down the middle of my floor with the floor sloped from the walls to the center all the way around. I plumbed mine to daylight out back as well.

Have you had water on the floor yet? Did it all drain the way you wanted it to?

The center of mine drains well but it's too flat out by the walls and water will sit there. Thankfully I don't wash that part out very often.

 

[jlansaw]

It rained a few times before I got the roof on and there were a few shallow puddles scattered around. Mine is supposed to sloped front to back but I might still have to use the squeegee.

 

[jlansaw]

Roof sheeting is on!

 

[kool55]

First time I seen trusses that had multiple 2x's. Thats heavy duty.

 

[jlansaw]

kool55 not sure what you mean?

 

[kool55]

You show a picture of your roof trusses. It looks like the contractor hand built the two trusses for the lift area. So he built them with multiple 2x4s or 2x6s to carry the weight of the missing ones? I first thought all of the trusses were like them.

 

[jlansaw]

Oh yeah, the lift bay. You're correct, the trusses were tripled, bolted together, at each end of the lift bay. I didn't want 14' or 16' sidewalls so the "vaulted" area was my solution to allow for a two post lift. I wanted to keep the building in somewhat of scale to my ranch style house, they are only about 50 feet apart.