37 degree flare tools?

[jeepnut24]

Any suggestions on a reasonably priced 37* double flare tool? I need to build some fuel lines.

Or does anyone rent one of these out? That would be another option.

I see plenty of reasonable single 37* flare tools, but no double.

 

[A_Pmech]

37 degrees is the aircraft standard, 45 degrees is the automotive standard. I believe you'll want a 45 degree flaring tool for your automotive work.

 

[jeepnut24]

37 degrees is the aircraft standard, 45 degrees is the automotive standard. I believe you'll want a 45 degree flaring tool for your automotive work.

Correct, but to use AN fittings on the rest of my fuel system, Ill need 37*

 

[caper]

37* is standard JIC hydraulic flare.I've never seen a tool for double flaring 37*.Usually hydraulic tubing is heavy wall so it only gets single flared.We routinely put 3500 psi into single flared hydraulic tubing so I doubt you need to double flare it for your fuel lines.

 

[A_Pmech]

Ahh, I was wondering if that was the case.

AN fittings do not require a double flare for steel tubing.



I'm partial to the Parker Rolo-Flare.

 

[fatrhino]

Another common option:

Ridgid 41162 37*

 

[speed bump]

I still have my Imperial Rol-Air flare tool from when I was doing refrigeration. Personally I would get any other tool than an rol type one.

http://www.imperial-tools.com/tools/flaring_swagingtools/flaringtools_04.html

 

[jeepnut24]

They do make 37* double flares. I have seen several sets, just not sure if they are really needed. Some of the steel tube has a ridge inside that a double flare resolves sealing issues. At least that is what I have been reading. I would like stainless fuel lines if I can, but will use aluminum or mild steel if I have to. The GM fuel lines need to handle 60+ lbs of working pressure.

 

[jeepnut24]

Ahh, I was wondering if that was the case.

AN fittings do not require a double flare for steel tubing.



I'm partial to the Parker Rolo-Flare.

Never seen one of those before, looks like it even burnishes the mating surface...

 

[jeepnut24]

Well found more discussion suggesting that I only need a single flare.... Looks like Ill go that route first and check for leaks.

 

[Jim Stabe]

This is about as inexpensive as I have found.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Standard-Flaring-Tool-37-Degree-AN,2931.html

 

[Graham08]

I do brake lines and everything with 37º single flares. The important thing is to use a tube sleeve (like any of these: http://www.summitracing.com/search/...ngs-Plugs/Part-Type/Tube-Sleeves/?Ns=Rank|Asc) between the nut and the hard line. The tube sleeve reinforces the flare, effectively doing the same thing as a double flare.

I think my flaring tool is a "roto-flare", which came either from US Tool or Aircraft Spruce. It is a great tool, but not intended for stainless, only soft steel, copper, or aluminum.

 

[jride200]

37 degree double flaring tools would be extremely expensive. My A&P program only has one of them. Its a monster Parker tool, which might even be out out or production. If it is still in production, $$$$. Its packaged in a wooden box leading me to believe it is military, WWII, surplus. This is all the more likely due to the fact that our hanger is an old WWII hanger--it quite possibly came with the building.

 

[Strouty]

I do brake lines and everything with 37º single flares. The important thing is to use a tube sleeve (like any of these: http://www.summitracing.com/search/...ngs-Plugs/Part-Type/Tube-Sleeves/?Ns=Rank|Asc) between the nut and the hard line. The tube sleeve reinforces the flare, effectively doing the same thing as a double flare.

Excuse my ignorance, but how do those work? Do you flare them, do they go on the inside or outside of the tube? Do you have any pics of a finished one? Are they only for AN fittings or JIC too?

 

[jeepnut24]

I do brake lines and everything with 37º single flares. The important thing is to use a tube sleeve (like any of these: http://www.summitracing.com/search/...ngs-Plugs/Part-Type/Tube-Sleeves/?Ns=Rank|Asc) between the nut and the hard line. The tube sleeve reinforces the flare, effectively doing the same thing as a double flare.

I think my flaring tool is a "roto-flare", which came either from US Tool or Aircraft Spruce. It is a great tool, but not intended for stainless, only soft steel, copper, or aluminum.

What about fuel lines? What tube material would you suggest? My brake lines were done with my 45* double flaring tool and haven't leaked in since I installed them.

 

[caper]

I do brake lines and everything with 37º single flares.

Why are you doing brake lines with a 37* flare?All the brake components I've ever seen are 45*.And up here in my neck of the woods a single flare or using copper for brake lines gets you an out of service.

 

[flatheadguy]

As already mentioned, "AN" fittings (aircraft standard) are 37 degree flares. The bits that Graham made reference to are AN-818 and AN-819. Fuel, oil, hydraulic fluid....good for all at very high pressures. Do a google search. One thing worth a mention.....using steel tubing? Use STEEL fittings. You might give "Aircraft Spruce" a look see......again, google them and research their listings.

 

[caper]

Excuse my ignorance, but how do those work? Do you flare them, do they go on the inside or outside of the tube? Do you have any pics of a finished one? Are they only for AN fittings or JIC too?

They slide over the tube after you slide the female tube fitting on the tube.You then flare the tube and the sleeve slides up the tube and gets jammed between the flare and the tube nut to reinforce the flare when the fitting is tightened.

 

[srmofo]

Master cool makes a kit that flares anything and everything.

If you already have the hydraulic tool they also sell just the 37' tools seperate. I bought the master kit http://www.google.com/products/cata...og_result&ct=result&resnum=3&ved=0CDkQ8wIwAg# and plan to add on the fittings when Im ready to do my fuel system also.

Or just the 37 kit
http://www.google.com/products/cata...og_result&ct=result&resnum=4&ved=0CEAQ8wIwAw#


Brake lines come in 37'......when they're also AN fittings/steel braided line, I also have them on my hydro clutch

 

[tyndall]

Another common option:

Ridgid 41162 37*

Nice tool, but the little needle bearing inside blows apart in no time.

 

[Graham08]

Why are you doing brake lines with a 37* flare?All the brake components I've ever seen are 45*.And up here in my neck of the woods a single flare or using copper for brake lines gets you an out of service.

Race car stuff, using AN fittings. Tilton master cylinders come set up with AN-3 male fittings, and the steel braided flex lines are also AN-3. At that point it's easier and lighter just to do the whole system using AN stuff than to try to mix SAE and AN fittings.

Racing calipers usually come with 1/8" NPT female fittings, so you're using an adapter either way...so SAE or AN makes no difference.

I use seamless steel hydraulic tube for the hard lines. Rated for way above what a normal system will see, plated for corrosion resistance, and about the same price as automotive brake line.

 

[Graham08]

What about fuel lines? What tube material would you suggest? My brake lines were done with my 45* double flaring tool and haven't leaked in since I installed them.

More than likely steel for your hard lines.

I would not mess with converting anything from SAE to AN (or JIC) if it is an existing system. I don't doubt your brakes are fine with 45º fittings...millions of cars are on the road with that setup. Working with racing parts, and building the system from scratch, it can be easier (and less confusing) to do the whole system with AN fittings and be done with it.

 

[jeepnut24]

More than likely steel for your hard lines.

I would not mess with converting anything from SAE to AN (or JIC) if it is an existing system. I don't doubt your brakes are fine with 45º fittings...millions of cars are on the road with that setup. Working with racing parts, and building the system from scratch, it can be easier (and less confusing) to do the whole system with AN fittings and be done with it.

Yeah, the brakes aren't part of this project and are staying as is. I need to plumb a new fuel system for the V8 going in. Since it sees street time, I want the majority of the system in hard line. Just wasn't sure which material would be best and most straight forward to work with.

 

[DadsShop]

Resurrecting an old post, but I'm looking to get an answer to the following. I'm looking to flare two JIC 08 fittings on a 3/8" soft copper line (1/2" OD ) but only have the SAE flaring tool set. Can SAE flaring tool (45*) be used to flare Soft Type L copper tubing and and let the JIC fittings press the copper between two 37* surfaces to correct the angle?

 

[Rockable]

I second the Parker Rol O Flare if youre flaring steel tubing 37 degrees. Buy a nice used one off eBay.

If doing 45 degree, get a Ridgid kit.

 

[Firebrick43]

Resurrecting an old post, but I'm looking to get an answer to the following. I'm looking to flare two JIC 08 fittings on a 3/8" soft copper line (1/2" OD ) but only have the SAE flaring tool set. Can SAE flaring tool (45*) be used to flare Soft Type L copper tubing and and let the JIC fittings press the copper between two 37* surfaces to correct the angle?

It probably would work because of the gland and the soft copper but its not advisable.

Why use copper with JIC?

 

[DadsShop]

It probably would work because of the gland and the soft copper but its not advisable.

Why use copper with JIC?

JIC is what came on the transmission cooler, I'm doing the Aftercooler setup on my 60 Gallon Air compressor and the two male fittings on the cooler from Ebay are 08 JIC with 37 Degree angle. All my other fittings will be 1/2" SAE Flares made of brass. I was thinking since using soft copper and SAE flaring tool to get the flare started but not let it seat all the way and then use a Steel 08 JIC flare fittings to form it the rest of the way, figure Steel fittings will for sure swage it into shape with some lubricant. I'll be using JIC brass Nut & Sleeve fittings since the male fittings on the cooler are brass.

 

[DadsShop]

I second the Parker Rol O Flare if youre flaring steel tubing 37 degrees. Buy a nice used one off eBay.

If doing 45 degree, get a Ridgid kit.

This is 1/2" OD Soft Copper L Type I'm planning to use while the fittings will be Brass

 

[Firebrick43]

JIC is what came on the transmission cooler, I'm doing the Aftercooler setup on my 60 Gallon Air compressor and the two male fittings on the cooler from Ebay are 08 JIC with 37 Degree angle. All my other fittings will be 1/2" SAE Flares made of brass. I was thinking since using soft copper and SAE flaring tool to get the flare started but not let it seat all the way and then use a Steel 08 JIC flare fittings to form it the rest of the way, figure Steel fittings will for sure swage it into shape with some lubricant. I'll be using JIC brass Nut & Sleeve fittings since the male fittings on the cooler are brass.

You will probably be ok with that

 

[Torque&Recoil]

Ahh, I was wondering if that was the case.

AN fittings do not require a double flare for steel tubing.



I'm partial to the Parker Rolo-Flare.

Another vote for the Parker. Its a tinch clumsy to hold the tubing in place while swinging the gate closed, but the quality of the flare is very good. If mine disappeared, I would buy another.

 

[Firebrick43]

Another vote for the Parker. Its a tinch clumsy to hold the tubing in place while swinging the gate closed, but the quality of the flare is very good. If mine disappeared, I would buy another.

You know you are responding to a post from 2010?

 

[DadsShop]

Anyone know if the Jasco-Wolco Model 100 Tube Flaring Kit is JIC or SAE or both, there is a bunch of them on Ebay some surplus conditions some never used. But really like to know if they are JIC or SAE as they come with two sets of dies.

Also found this section in the manual, underflaring while letting the fitting do the final forming:

 

[DadsShop]

I'm flattered right now: