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3d printers for toolbox organization?

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spoon671

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Better off cnc machining polyethylene


+1. Or manually machine.

I have lots of UHMW sheet in my shop. I'll be machining some stuff up soon to show off. Also, the plastic should wear sooner than the socket would...if they're quality sockets we're talking about here. ;-)
 

Spudland_Dave

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I do alot of 3D printed model stuff (1/64 Scale models of trucks & equipment)...the thought has crossed my mind, and i've got plans for a drive extension organizer and possibly a ratchet organizer but just havent had time/energy to get it done.

The plastic used would not be an issue. Short of having a CNC machine at home, I think the 3D route would be the way to go myself.
 

Regnar

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I have done this in foam and a CNC Router. Full trays at work. The hardest most time consuming part will be actually designing the layout. You will have to measure almost every socket to find its diameter and length. Then design the tool path and if you use a 3d printer wait for it to be printed (This could take days).

My suggestion tip is to layout everything in the box like you would like it. Snap a photo and start measuring in writing on picture. I designed one that a neighbor wanted. He loved the way it looked on CAD but hated the way it functioned in real life.

If your do have a CNC Router cut it out for you start out with MDF. Then move into the Plastics and Foams. MDF is far cheaper then some of the stuff out there.
 

paranoid56

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having something like that would take so much time and materials with a 3d printer. like above, i would just use a cnc router to make some.
i made this holder from HDPE plastic on my cnc router.
photo%2B4.JPG


is that kinda like what you are thinking?
 

dutchgray

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You could try a set of number punches for the size markings, they ought to mark a solid plastic well, then fill the impressions with a contrasting paint. Or if your CNC ing it then use a small V grove tool to make an impression and fill with paint.
 

madcrisis

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Do you have access to a 3d printer? if not there are companies that will print your drawings. Do you have cad experience?

Just remember holes printed in a 3d printer are not perfecting smooth and round. Nothing a little bit of sanding or further finishing processes cant take care of(depending if you use a company.). The material will definately hold up if designed properly. I would just do holes the diameter of the socket, on two hight levels. about half as high as the socket.You can have the sizes inlaid in your drawing but Id paint them in by hand when theyre done.

The vapor treating I think is the best treating process to smooth things out and strengthen it up.

3d printers are awesome if you know how to draw in CAD programs properly. This also isnt hard to learn as most all programs come with basic tutorials that will show you how to do more complicated items than this.
 

lilscorpion

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Could be done with a manual router and a fixture if you didn't care about the numbers and lettering.

For a CNC setup you could really machine them with just about anything that holds a router and had a reasonably small amount of backlash in the drive setup. If you're cool with long run times you'd need nothing more than a small end mill (1/8-inch to 1/4-inch). If you want to hammer down (single pass with a 2-inch ball mill) you'll want a more rigid setup with some balls behind it.

I have a 2hp knee with a centroid retrofit on it and have made many different organizational trays out of HDPE like paranoid56. Great way to get organized and as configurable as you want them to be because the design possibilities are only limited by your imagination.

Pliers Tray
PliersOrganization6.jpg


Collet and End mill trays
ColletTrayB.jpg


Hex bit holders
HexBitStorageA.jpg


File organization
Files.jpg


Tap Trays
TapTrays.jpg


ratchet organization
RatchetDrawerJ.jpg


RatchetDrawerS.jpg


Screwdriver Trays
ScrewDriver27.jpg


ScrewDriver10.jpg


Socket Organization
SocketDrawerQ.jpg


Sky's the limit. Simple trays are totally doable with a manual mill. CNC is a necessity for the more complicated stuff if you struggle with patience like me. I know some old-timers who could do things with a manual mill that makes me with a CNC look like a noob.

Back on track though - I've thought about CNC Printing the trays. In some cases I think you could actually do more with a printer because you'd not be confined by the tooling you have. Things like square corners is impossible with an end mill but a snap for a printer. You would need a fairly large one to compete with the capacity of a mill though. May not matter unless you have bigger tools like my longer torque wrenches.
 
Last edited:

JonnyMac

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Lilscorpion, you are the king of storage trays!
Starboard or kingboard is not readily available downunder but as soon as I find some im copying your other thread!!!
 

lilscorpion

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Lilscorpion, you are the king of storage trays!
Starboard or kingboard is not readily available downunder but as soon as I find some im copying your other thread!!!


That *****. Guess it's not really easy to find (in less than sheet sizes) here either. Stateside eBay vendors want too much for shipping? I'm guessing yes..

My first few were done out of some cutting board material I sourced (usually available in red, green, and always white) in 1/2-inch thick sizes.
 
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James_B

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I'm planning on doing mine in my LASER engraver.

I do a lot of construction with precision cut 1/8" and 1/4" fibre board (aka Masonite) and plywood pieces and can pretty much design slot together storage tray dividers in my sleep.

For shadow board type inserts, the LASER does a fine job of cutting out foam and I've even considered a shadow board setup using laminated fibre board layers that have been cut in the LASER.
 

beamrider

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Could be done with a manual router and a fixture if you didn't care about the numbers and lettering.

For a CNC setup you could really machine them with just about anything that holds a router and had a reasonably small amount of backlash in the drive setup. If you're cool with long run times you'd need nothing more than a small end mill (1/8-inch to 1/4-inch). If you want to hammer down (single pass with a 2-inch ball mill) you'll want a more rigid setup with some balls behind it.

I have a 2hp knee with a centroid retrofit on it and have made many different organizational trays out of HDPE like paranoid56. Great way to get organized and as configurable as you want them to be because the design possibilities are only limited by your imagination.

Sky's the limit. Simple trays are totally doable with a manual mill. CNC is a necessity for the more complicated stuff if you struggle with patience like me. I know some old-timers who could do things with a manual mill that makes me with a CNC look like a noob.

Back on track though - I've thought about CNC Printing the trays. In some cases I think you could actually do more with a printer because you'd not be confined by the tooling you have. Things like square corners is impossible with an end mill but a snap for a printer. You would need a fairly large one to compete with the capacity of a mill though. May not matter unless you have bigger tools like my longer torque wrenches.

Ok, someone lock this thread now before my keyboard drowns in drool. The OCD in me is going nuts........:lol_hitti
 

Regnar

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Seems like a drill press would be a better fit for that size. A good set of Fostner bits and you should be set. For what it's worth, 35 dollars wouldn't even get me to turn on the computer so I think that's not a bad price. CNC machining time runs around 50-100 an hr depending on quantity. Most will have a design fee and setup fee. Then add material plus markups.........
 

spoon671

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SFCA
Seems like online 3d printing is out. I didn't expect it to be cheap, but damn. Mocked up a 1"x7"x.6" 1/4" holder with ten socket holes and that's $35. And I can only get it in black or white. That's from www.shapeways.com . I hope there's cheaper places, or I will be either buying a 3d printer or a mini mill. Or doing it by hand with a router (this seems most likely once I learn how to make templates. And find the router...)


*****!!

Get a mini mill! That would be lots more fun to play around with! Something about machining a finished part out of a block of metal or plastic is just satisfying. I'll again recommend UHMW...it's super dense, abrasion resistant (perfect for tool storage), self lubricating (it's what those fake hockey rinks are made out of), and comes in multitudes of colors.

Have fun!

UHMW_Machining_Parts_Components_for_Custom_Types.jpg
 

paranoid56

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oh, and i would go with HDPE, usually cheaper and great for this idea.

and lilscorpion just stopped at the plastic place and was able to pick up a few more scraps of the two color stuff, did you want one to try? i think i have a 6x6 piece you can have for shipping
 

Regnar

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Oct 9, 2010
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Figured I would share mine that I made today. I have done this a lot for work and co workers but never myself. Engraving was a little deep.

Made of 2" thick Red Oak. Overall size was 5.75" by 8.5"
 

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LennyTheLizard

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Cool Idea. I have all the tools available at work (CAD and SLA equipment), but I don't think I want to get caught making tool holders on it. The material is crazy expensive!
 

Regnar

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Wow that looks really nice :thumbup:. Are the smaller sockets hard to grab since they're so deep?

Not bad at all. All of the Sockets stick out a 1/4 inch from the top of the holder so they are easy to grab a hold of. Also easy to notice when one is missing.
 

Adam.C

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Red oak is a really bad material choice. You'd be better off putting them in a shallow pan of salt water. Oak attacks ferrous metals.
 

404

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lilscorpion, those trays are amazing.. great job.

Regards,
404
 

doan

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Frisco, TX
Red oak is a really bad material choice. You'd be better off putting them in a shallow pan of salt water. Oak attacks ferrous metals.

I made a wood tray out of oak to hold hex bits about 30 years ago... No issues.
 
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