id like to insulate and put a ceiling in my shop,the problem is,that the trusses are on 4' centers,what would you recommend for doing this?....drywall? drop grid?plastic?vinyl?wood?.....its a 24x65 stick frame covered in metal sheathing......
4' centers on ceiling
- Thread starter rich1956
- Start date
Junkman
Well-known member
Run strapping on 16" centers and support with some form of framing between the 4' centers.....
Dave Carney
Well-known member
I'm doing steel on 4' centers, haven't started hanging steel yet though. My pole building guy said this was fine as long as it's insulation only and no storeage up there.
1320stang
Well-known member
I'd say either ceiling grid or 28 ga. metal panels like your building is sheathed with. Drywall and wood would be too heavy and tend to sag without additional bracing, and the truss system was likely not designed for the additional weight load. Metal would be cheaper and far easier to put up. But Dave is right, no storage.
jwith68
Well-known member
Metal is the way to go, particularly for trusses 4' on center. Metal doesn't require any additional blocking or support, easy to install, light weight, easy to clean, and looks great. An attic storage floor is possible IF your trusses are designed for it. The metal itself is very light (~0.8 lb/sqft) so you shouldn't create any problems even if your trusses were designed for no additional load. My 30 x 60 garage/shop has trusses 4' on center designed for an 8' wide storage floor down the middle with 50 lb/sqft, plus ceiling load, normally figured at 5 lb/sqft around here.
One other nice thing about the metal, if screwed into the bottom chord of the trusses, its very strong and will hold the weight of a man easily. Nice to know when your up there wiring and insulating. However, if you step out in the middle between the trusses with all your weight on one foot, you will probably kink the metal. Not dangerous, but looks bad from below.
One other nice thing about the metal, if screwed into the bottom chord of the trusses, its very strong and will hold the weight of a man easily. Nice to know when your up there wiring and insulating. However, if you step out in the middle between the trusses with all your weight on one foot, you will probably kink the metal. Not dangerous, but looks bad from below.
rizzorace
Well-known member
jwith68
Well-known member
Rizzo's looks pretty much identical to mine, I think we even have the same lights, though he has more of them. Yes, the metal runs across the trusses.
My building is conventional stick construction, so the end truss sits at the outside edge of the end walls. I capped the end walls with a 2x4 hanging 1.5 inches over the inside, so I had something to screw the ends of the metal to. At the front and rear walls, I didn't add anything, but the whole ceiling is bordered with "J" channel. This makes a clean looking edge, and gives you something to **** the wall covering (whatever it is) up to. The metal is screwed to the bottom chords of the trusses just like it would be to the purlins or girts on the outside of a building.
I have a local supplier of this type of metal, and they usually have some seconds around. I was fortunate that they had a large stack of 24' long sheets of white seconds when I was looking. Width coverage is 3'. My building is 30' x 60' outside, so I bought 20 sheets of 24', and had them shear an additional 5 sheets to 12' length, so 20 sheets of 24' and 10 sheets of 12'. I started at each end with the 24' sheets and filled in the middle with the 12' sheets. That put one overlap joint above my garage/shop divider wall, and the other on the garage side. If your the least bit careful on placement and lining it up, the lap joints are hardly noticeable.
Because mine has the storage floor, the middle is insulated with R-19 batts in an 8' strip down the middle (2x6 bottom chords), and R-30 blown-in fiberglass outside of that.
My building is conventional stick construction, so the end truss sits at the outside edge of the end walls. I capped the end walls with a 2x4 hanging 1.5 inches over the inside, so I had something to screw the ends of the metal to. At the front and rear walls, I didn't add anything, but the whole ceiling is bordered with "J" channel. This makes a clean looking edge, and gives you something to **** the wall covering (whatever it is) up to. The metal is screwed to the bottom chords of the trusses just like it would be to the purlins or girts on the outside of a building.
I have a local supplier of this type of metal, and they usually have some seconds around. I was fortunate that they had a large stack of 24' long sheets of white seconds when I was looking. Width coverage is 3'. My building is 30' x 60' outside, so I bought 20 sheets of 24', and had them shear an additional 5 sheets to 12' length, so 20 sheets of 24' and 10 sheets of 12'. I started at each end with the 24' sheets and filled in the middle with the 12' sheets. That put one overlap joint above my garage/shop divider wall, and the other on the garage side. If your the least bit careful on placement and lining it up, the lap joints are hardly noticeable.
Because mine has the storage floor, the middle is insulated with R-19 batts in an 8' strip down the middle (2x6 bottom chords), and R-30 blown-in fiberglass outside of that.
jwith68
Well-known member
Local supplier has primarily Strongpanel and Channeldrain 2000, which are very similar. Occasionally has a couple of other profiles.
chopper103in
Member
Junkman said:
why not go with 24" centers----you can get insulation for 24" centers and not have short spots to fill in if you went with 16" centers