Hello. I've just purchase a Direct 8 plus 4 post lift with a 110v pump. I was wondering if there was any way to convert it to a 220v application instead. I looked around on the net and couldn't find any info about doing so. Thanks for the help.
4 post Direct 8+ lift
- Thread starter myfast70
- Start date
JSK
Well-known member
Myfast,
If the Direct Lift uses a 110V power unit similar to BendPak's, it could be a dual-voltage unit. Low voltage wired at 110 volts or hi-voltage wired to 208-230. The data plate will illustrate voltage and wiring instruction.
If you choose a true 208-230 unit, although it will not have 110 capacity, it will have a higher GPM pump that will decrease rise time.
What is your reason to consider 220 over 110?
JSK
mikeyr
Well-known member
Yeah, what is your reasoning for switching ? I had specifically ordered a 110v but they sent me a 220v unit, I was quite upset but 10 years later I really don't know why I was so upset, they both work fine.
That made me LOL. That statement can be applied to a lot of things when you think about it, but a great response.
I am interested in the reason as well, as this lift is on my short list........ when I finally get a lift..... way down the road.... a ways.
SiGmA_X
Well-known member
While amp draw is half that of 110v, it will not change the amount of watts consumed.. Unless I am thinking about this incorrectly, which is of course possible.
chris_smith_27
New member
Why do you need a 220 power unit on a hobbyist lift??? 220 power units are mainly used on lifts built for commercial use not residential use. They put 220 power units on lifts to make them go up faster so they can get more cars in and out of the shop. Please do not use a residential lift for commercial application. Yes I know they both look the same but the components of a commercial grade lift are not the same as a hobbyist. Hobbyist lifts are built to be raised an lowered a few times a week not several times in one day.
sixtnut
Well-known member
I have a Direct Pro Park 8 Plus lift. (see pics in profile) The 110v is fine. It lifts my car in about 55 seconds.
You are considering spending money you don't need to. Besides, if you do this before your warranty runs out and you have a problem, your warranty will be VOID.
My brother has an Eagle lift with a 220v. His lift is 3 seconds faster.
It's your call of course, but I think I'd reconsider.
Take $102.00 and buy yourself another jack tray, that way you can lift both ends of the car at the same time. Harbor Freight had 12 ton bottle jacks on sale for $9.95 each. I use one on each end of the car. Sure beats a $600.00 air jack and then you can still lift one end at a time.
You are considering spending money you don't need to. Besides, if you do this before your warranty runs out and you have a problem, your warranty will be VOID.
My brother has an Eagle lift with a 220v. His lift is 3 seconds faster.
It's your call of course, but I think I'd reconsider.
Take $102.00 and buy yourself another jack tray, that way you can lift both ends of the car at the same time. Harbor Freight had 12 ton bottle jacks on sale for $9.95 each. I use one on each end of the car. Sure beats a $600.00 air jack and then you can still lift one end at a time.
If your amp draw goes does so does the wattage consumed as they are a direct correlation.
As far as my reason it is just mainly speed and then secondly energy consumption. I am using this hobbyist just for that, my own personal hobbies around my garage. I am not a mechanic and do not have this lift set up in a shop just my garage.
There will be no energy savings. Ohm's law. Volts x Amps = Watts
110 at say 20 amps would be 2200 Watts.
With 220, the amps would be half, so 10 amps = 2200 Watts.