4 post lift: can you pull an engine?

[Brianc500]

I've read quite a few threads on the 2 post or 4 post lift pros and cons. What I haven't really read and would be most important to me is can you pull an engine from the top when using a 4 post lift. I know the front crossmember is in the way for a cherry picker, but it seems like you could raise the lift a couple inches off the ground then roll the cherry picker under it?

I'm leaning towards the 4 post because I want the ability to move the lift around my 30x40 shop and I have no idea if the concrete can hold a 2 post. I also like the ability to use it for parking or a large work bench when not in use.

If a cherry picker wouldn't work, could a mobile gantry crane work if it's wide enough and tall enough to clear the from posts?


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[junkyardwarrior]

Only time a 4 post is useful is (1) storage and (2) body repairs. Most all other times, 2 post is a better option.

BUT....you've got your mind set, and I understand & respect that. Can you get or make a gantry crane? That would probably work but you've still got the crossmember(s) in the way that you'll have to roll over or under somehow. You might have to get creative with lifting an engine out while on a 4 post. It may be an issue of where you can get the lift installed, THEN figure out how you are going to accomplish it.

BTW I had similar concrete question....most told me to either (a) hire someone to test it's thickness or (b) drill a test hole or two. I chose "b" since I have the hammer drill and bits handy already--was pleasantly surprised to find 5" minimum (and still didn't break through....ran out of drill bit) everywhere I tested. Could that be an option? Drill a few test holes?

 

[Brianc500]

Only time a 4 post is useful is (1) storage and (2) body repairs. Most all other times, 2 post is a better option.

BUT....you've got your mind set, and I understand & respect that. Can you get or make a gantry crane? That would probably work but you've still got the crossmember(s) in the way that you'll have to roll over or under somehow. You might have to get creative with lifting an engine out while on a 4 post. It may be an issue of where you can get the lift installed, THEN figure out how you are going to accomplish it.

BTW I had similar concrete question....most told me to either (a) hire someone to test it's thickness or (b) drill a test hole or two. I chose "b" since I have the hammer drill and bits handy already--was pleasantly surprised to find 5" minimum (and still didn't break through....ran out of drill bit) everywhere I tested. Could that be an option? Drill a few test holes?

Thanks for the input, if there is no rebar in the floor would that be a problem? I can't imagine a pad that big wouldn't have rebar, but I have no idea since I didnt build the shop. It was build in the late 80's early 90's according to the city records.


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[rsanter]

Can you use a 4 post lift to pull an engine from the top to the bottom? Yes you can.
From the top you can do as you have said. You can also run the car off the front of the lift. Block between the lift and the frame behind the wheels and run the lift up a few inches for cherry picker leg clearance.

To pull from the bottom you do the same as above but when lifting the car higher you want to tie the back of the car down to the lift for added safety.

I don’t use a cherry picker much anymore. I pull engines with a chain hoist attached to an I beam in the shop ceiling.
IMO there is no better way to pull an engine from the top than with chain joint/chain fall from a mobile gantry or from a ceiling mount

 

[cj7jeep81]

Thanks for the input, if there is no rebar in the floor would that be a problem? I can't imagine a pad that big wouldn't have rebar, but I have no idea since I didnt build the shop. It was build in the late 80's early 90's according to the city records.


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Might have rebar, might not. Most residential garages don't. Mine does (but does have wire mesh), and my 2 post is up just fine.

A gantry crane would work fine (obviously make sure it's wide/tall enough). I put the engine/transmission back into my Jeep with mine, so much easier than an engine crane. I built my gantry crane myself, and use it way more often than I ever thought I would (originally built it to unload a large drill press, but have used it quite a bit).

 

[inane2]

I spent over 20 years in a shop for a large company. We serviced anything they owned, from weedeaters to dozers. Had a Challenger 30k four post lift in one of our bays. Mostly for oil changes, rotate tires, brakes, etc. It had one rolling jack, 6k I believe. We took a steel beam and welded ears on it where it would slide on the track. We could then use a bottle jack to lift the whole vehicle. Back to your question and just like rsanter mentions above, if we were pulling an engine, we'd raise the vehicle and do whatever we needed to underneath. Let the vehicle back down and pull or push the front of the vehicle of the front of the lift (we had approach ramps on both ends). This put the vehicle at an angle with the nose down and made it so much easier to work on. Then, we'd use our cherry picker or forklift to yank out the motor. We soon started working on our service trucks this way, especially the diesel ones. The trucks kept getting bigger and doing something like injectors was hard crawling around on top of the engine. Drive the truck up on the lift and half way off the other end, put it at a much better angle.

A few years back, I installed a Challenger E10 two post lift in my home shop. Bought three of the HF under hoist jack stands to use for extra support of the vehicles. Had this for 2 years and never could come to "love" it. I'm sure I was biased spending all that time with a 4 post. So, last year, I found a smoking CL deal on a 4 post Challenger, 14k alignment rack with TWO rolling jacks. Sold my 2 post, installed the 4 post and haven't looked back. On this lift, it only has approach ramps on the rear, but the front is open - no cross beam. A cherry picker would slide under the vehicle with no problem. If you get a 4 post, try to get at least one jack.

There are threads for days on 2 post vs 4 post. It seems most a lot of folks have strong opinions on their choices of which one. It's all about what works for you. I initially bought the new 2 post because of cost. I've had great service from Challenger lifts and they're about 30 mins from me, so I was glad to support local.

 

[66Caprice]

I did it with mine just like you described. Lifted it up to get legs under it and boom done. But it also depends on the vehicle. Taller vehicles might be a problem.

 

[mrobins297aaa]

Thanks for the input, if there is no rebar in the floor would that be a problem? I can't imagine a pad that big wouldn't have rebar, but I have no idea since I didnt build the shop. It was build in the late 80's early 90's according to the city records.


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you don't need rebar

 

[pbon]

If you get a wide 4 post, you can drop some engines out the bottom and then raise the lift up and move the engine away. You can do this with a 2 post as well, obviously. My Bendpak HD9-XW has about 42” between the runners. As far as I can tell, that is enough to drop the I6 out of my E36M3 or E61 535xi or the V8 out of my E90M3. No idea about a big diesel or domestic V8.

I have an engine hoist and could raise the lift 8” and roll the legs under, but don’t think that will be the first thing I try. In the past I have also pulled from a beam in the ceiling with a ratcheting cable puller. I don’t have a beam like that in my current garage but could probably lay one over 4 rafters to spread the load and rig something up if necessary.

 

[stioc]

Open center scissor lift is another option. I went with my BendPak 6P 10yrs ago due to similar concerns; portability, questionable old concrete, ceiling height and because majority of what I do requires removing wheels and tires. It can be done with the 4 post too with the bridge and jacks but I like driving up over the lift, hitting the button to raise it and I'm done. Done exhaust and transmission work too. The drawback is I'm still lying under the car (granted on a creeper) - standing upright is better but in my case I only have an 8ft ceiling.

 

[Oilguy]

I pulled/installed a motor on my 62 Impala on a 4 post. I placed 4x4 wood blocks with 2x4 attached to the top of them under the cross beams on the lift so the picker legs would roll under the ramp. I put the wood blocks near the corners so there was clearance for the picker legs between the blocks.

 

[Brianc500]

I spent over 20 years in a shop for a large company. We serviced anything they owned, from weedeaters to dozers. Had a Challenger 30k four post lift in one of our bays. Mostly for oil changes, rotate tires, brakes, etc. It had one rolling jack, 6k I believe. We took a steel beam and welded ears on it where it would slide on the track. We could then use a bottle jack to lift the whole vehicle. Back to your question and just like rsanter mentions above, if we were pulling an engine, we'd raise the vehicle and do whatever we needed to underneath. Let the vehicle back down and pull or push the front of the vehicle of the front of the lift (we had approach ramps on both ends). This put the vehicle at an angle with the nose down and made it so much easier to work on. Then, we'd use our cherry picker or forklift to yank out the motor. We soon started working on our service trucks this way, especially the diesel ones. The trucks kept getting bigger and doing something like injectors was hard crawling around on top of the engine. Drive the truck up on the lift and half way off the other end, put it at a much better angle.

A few years back, I installed a Challenger E10 two post lift in my home shop. Bought three of the HF under hoist jack stands to use for extra support of the vehicles. Had this for 2 years and never could come to "love" it. I'm sure I was biased spending all that time with a 4 post. So, last year, I found a smoking CL deal on a 4 post Challenger, 14k alignment rack with TWO rolling jacks. Sold my 2 post, installed the 4 post and haven't looked back. On this lift, it only has approach ramps on the rear, but the front is open - no cross beam. A cherry picker would slide under the vehicle with no problem. If you get a 4 post, try to get at least one jack.

There are threads for days on 2 post vs 4 post. It seems most a lot of folks have strong opinions on their choices of which one. It's all about what works for you. I initially bought the new 2 post because of cost. I've had great service from Challenger lifts and they're about 30 mins from me, so I was glad to support local.

I was totally gung-ho about a 2 post until I visited a friend's shop who had a 4 post. I'm moving into this space in a few weeks and want the 1st thing installed to be a lift. I want the ability to move the lift easily as I have no idea how I want the shop layout yet. I don't plan on pulling motors every week so I'm willing to sacrifice that task being harder for the ability to move the lift easily and the stacking ability of the 4 post.


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[inane2]

Completely understand Brian. Like I mentioned above, the cost of the 2 post was what "sealed the deal" for me even though I personally wanted a 4 post. Couldn't swing a new one at the time and didn't find any used ones worth messing with.

I'm in good shape now with my used "new to me" 4 post. It's a 2006 model and came out of a shop that closed down. Have a guy around here that buys and flips used shop equipment (lifts, tire changers, balancers, etc).

Sounds like a great plan to get what you want right out of the gate and not have to worry about the "would have's" and "should have's". There seems to be plenty of options of 4 post lifts out there with the caster kits that allows them to be moved around in your shop. Best of luck!

 

[pbon]

Of course you could also raise the lift and drive under it and use the lift to pull the motor. My lift goes to 7 feet clearance. Or I could put a 6x6 across the runners and use a ratcheting cable puller and engine leveler from there and then roll the car back out.

 

[WaterBoyz]

Of course you could also raise the lift and drive under it and use the lift to pull the motor. My lift goes to 7 feet clearance. Or I could put a 6x6 across the runners and use a ratcheting cable puller and engine leveler from there and then roll the car back out.

Great idea.

But, if too happy on the UP button it could remind you what you forgot to disconnect

 

[Kev442]

Not the engine from the top, but I have dropped two complete subframe assemblies with the drivetrain using a 4 post. Rather than tying the rear of the vehicle to to the other end, I just tossed 300 lbs "counterbalance" in the back end.

 

[Brianc500]

Of course you could also raise the lift and drive under it and use the lift to pull the motor. My lift goes to 7 feet clearance. Or I could put a 6x6 across the runners and use a ratcheting cable puller and engine leveler from there and then roll the car back out.

My buddy used his to pull a lathe off a trailer and put it on skates. Another awesome feature, although I suppose you could do the same with a 2 post if you distributed the weight evenly across all four legs.


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[pbon]

I recently helped someone lift a boat off a trailer with my 4 post. We hung it under the lift and he worked on it with some blocks supporting the keel.