First off I'm sorry if this in the wrong section. I have a few questions in regards to a 4 post lift. I need a 9000lbs + 4 post lift to lift my 4 door long box 1ton Dually with a diesel in it. So I know I need a long and wide enough one. But do all the 4 post lifts that will be big enough for me require it to be bolted to the floor? Is there any that big that I don't have to mount to the floor? Was hoping to be able to move this lift around (when it's empty and not being used). Any help or insight would be great. Thanks
4 post lift help
- Thread starter Ja564rm80
- Start date
I installed the Alas 8000 Ext for my McLaren 650S which is only about 3,200lbs and without it bolted down there was a decent amount of wiggle while the car was going up and down and it looked like it was stressing the lift, so I bolted it down and it is perfect now. Would have never walked under it not bolted down.
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A29
Well-known member
Never been around one bolted down. Mine has been moved twice. First time about 1 foot the 2nd time 6"
I have the Bend Pack extra long extra wide 12K. I bought it so it would fit my F450 single cabs with 12ft beds. It worked just fine for those and was not bolted down. After I closed my business and moved everything back to my home shop I did bolt in down and to be perfectly honest other then removing the wiggle, there's not much difference. You could always install flush type anchors and use bolts, then when you do want to move it unbolt and knock yourself out. The large lifts aren't fly weights so it's not exactly going to be easy to just slide it around.
No I understand they aren't light but the garage is big enough so I can bring the tractor in and move it around and build a set of wheels for it to put it on and move it if need be. The reason I ask about bolting it is because I put radiant floor heating in and I have a better then rough Idea where the lines are just not 100% and I hate to hit one while drilling to bolt a lift in. Obv didn't plan it out too well before I poured the floor lol
soj
Well-known member
I have a BendPak 9K with the castor kit. It rolls fairly easily, once you get it moving. Changing directions is hard, for one person. I tried moving it with a fairly light car on it, I couldn't budge it. No prob. I just drove the car off and then moved it.
There is some movement with it not bolted down, but very little. It is nothing scary like joecam described. If I had pipes in the floor, I wouldn't even consider bolting.
jp
Thanks for the info. I am thinking of maybe big maybe drilling into concrete about 2-3 max for the bolt. I poured the floor 6-7in thick. The whole reason for a 4 post lift was for more safety with a 8000 pound truck on it. It kinda of seems like it maybe almost just like a 2 post lift safety wise if it wasn't bolted to the floor?? Sorry for all the questions. Just put myself in a pickle here... But I was able to pour the floor after Christmas with all the nice weather so I had to rush it. My biggest concern is with the diesel being so front heavy it causing more movement of the lift?? I have a truck that has a gutted rear end/frame and has about 1800 pounds added to the front.
I've got a Direct Lift PP9+ which is rated at 9K. It is not bolted down and I've never had a problem with as much as an F250 crew SB diesel on it when it has been locked at about a 6' height. It will wiggle if I get on the lift with the truck, but not enough to concern me.
Part of what needs to be considered is how level your floors are and the voltage of the lift. Remember 220V should not be cord extended. Also if your lift uses air locks, if you intend to move the lift around you're going to also need to make sure you can get air to it.
Part of what needs to be considered is how level your floors are and the voltage of the lift. Remember 220V should not be cord extended. Also if your lift uses air locks, if you intend to move the lift around you're going to also need to make sure you can get air to it.
Agreed on the floor but WTH you talking about Willis. What difference does it make if it's 220?.
The cord ends are resistance prone and subsequently can be fire hazards. If you want a longer cord the safest way to get it is to not use an extension cord but to rewire the machine with properly sized longer cord. The problem with this is of course is the proper wire is pretty heavy gauge and bulky to coil. Alternatively you can use a properly sized 220 extension cord temporarily, but it should only be used temporarily.
Seriously, well in my 30+ years of being a sparky that's a new one on me. You'd probably have a coronary if you ever walked into industrial shop. BTW as long as the cord is properly rated for the connected load as well as cord ends and the circuit has the correct overcurrent protection, you can put away your hard hat and flash suit.
