4 post lift - ramp alternatives

[Cryptic1911]

Yeah, they look to be diamond plate as well, just painted or powdercoated black. I looked at the ones that Bendpak, Greg Smith Equipment, and Raceramps sell, and they are all identical looking

 

[c39er]

I finished my flip up out of the way ramps for my HD14TL. Sandblasted and epoxy painted-just like the factory made em! It's nice to not have them always in the way hanging or held horizontal waiting for someone tall to bang their head. Material cost about $140.00.

 

[Texas Aggie]

Very nice design! I think Bendpak should offer ramps like yours instead of the heavy ramps that can't be lifted up vertically while mounted. I like the Bendpak lift, but their ramp design could use some improvement.

One question: how do the ramps stay vertical (without falling over towards the car)? Is there a stop that isn't visible? Thanks.

 

[Racer_X]

Yeah, they look to be diamond plate as well, just painted or powdercoated black. I looked at the ones that Bendpak, Greg Smith Equipment, and Raceramps sell, and they are all identical looking

That's the thing - they may look the same, but they aren't. Race Ramps products are made out of some kind of composite material that is strong and lightweight. Notice the ones I posted about only weigh 9 pounds. Look closely at the photo - it may have a metal top (not sure) but if you look at the side, you can see the composite material. Check out their website - they have a lot of cool (and somewhat costly) products.

 

[c39er]

Very nice design! I think Bendpak should offer ramps like yours instead of the heavy ramps that can't be lifted up vertically while mounted. I like the Bendpak lift, but their ramp design could use some improvement.

One question: how do the ramps stay vertical (without falling over towards the car)? Is there a stop that isn't visible? Thanks.

I designed the ramp stops in the hinge area (They bind up against the runway)so they cannot be tilted back anymore-they are very rigid. This required grinding my pivot pipe weld area carefully to cause the tilt back angle. I didn't want any steel stop straps to deal with-wanted it all simple.

 

[Texas Aggie]

I designed the ramp stops in the hinge area (They bind up against the runway)so they cannot be tilted back anymore-they are very rigid. This required grinding my pivot pipe weld area carefully to cause the tilt back angle. I didn't want any steel stop straps to deal with-wanted it all simple.

Thanks for the explanation. Very efficient design.

 

[snowphun]

I designed the ramp stops in the hinge area (They bind up against the runway)so they cannot be tilted back anymore-they are very rigid. This required grinding my pivot pipe weld area carefully to cause the tilt back angle. I didn't want any steel stop straps to deal with-wanted it all simple.

Those look great. Is there any real concern of them falling down (not towards the car)? Really impressive craftsmanship.

 

[snowphun]

That's the thing - they may look the same, but they aren't. Race Ramps products are made out of some kind of composite material that is strong and lightweight. Notice the ones I posted about only weigh 9 pounds. Look closely at the photo - it may have a metal top (not sure) but if you look at the side, you can see the composite material.

It is hard to tell but they really look like a single piece of bent aluminum to me. The site also says "as little as 9 pounds", but it mentions that for all the sizes. The other reason they may be lighter is they are narrower (14" vs 19") and shorter (34" vs 37").

 

[Cryptic1911]

That's the thing - they may look the same, but they aren't. Race Ramps products are made out of some kind of composite material that is strong and lightweight. Notice the ones I posted about only weigh 9 pounds. Look closely at the photo - it may have a metal top (not sure) but if you look at the side, you can see the composite material. Check out their website - they have a lot of cool (and somewhat costly) products.

They look identical to me.. I think they just take them and spray a lumpy powdercoat over them to mimick the look of their composite ramps to be honest

 

[c39er]

Those look great. Is there any real concern of them falling down (not towards the car)? Really impressive craftsmanship.

They won't fall down. I might set the tilt back angle just a bit more though as I feel I just barely got them tilted back enough. I'm in eartquake country so that's my only concern.

 

[Racer_X]

They look identical to me.. I think they just take them and spray a lumpy powdercoat over them to mimick the look of their composite ramps to be honest

I contacted them this morning. They are indeed made of the composite material. They also said that for the hook-nosed rack ramps, the hook is made out of diamond plate. The lip on the rack-5 ramp is a wood product and the whole thing is coated with their "polyeuro" coating.
Also - made in the U.S.A., which is important to me.

 

[Cryptic1911]

oh cool, I kept seeing the diamond plate, and just figured that they coated the rest of it to match

 

[barracudaeddie]

Anyone interested in selling their heavy bend pak approach ramps, let me know.

Thanks,

Ed

 

[jperaino]

Ed,
I have a brand new set of BendPak extended steel ramps for sale. I bought Raceramps ramps for my HD9.

 

[solidaxel]

Any more updates or graage corrections to the Droop problem without spending 300.00?

 

[Nigeltufnel]

I know this is an old thread but thought I'd share my solution and this seems to be the most appropriate place. I made two locks that fit over the end of the ramp and the runway. For each lock I cut up some 4" wide by 1/4" thick plate (its what I had laying around) into 3 pieces, one 4" piece, one 3" piece and one 5.5" piece and welded the 4" and 3" piece to opposite ends of the 5.5" inch piece to form a C shape. To lock the ramp, place the lock over the ramp end and the runway. To remove the lock while the lift is in the raised position, just grab the ramp and slightly lift it, remove the clamp and then lower the ramp.

 

[NitroShark]

I originally bought the optional Bendpak ramp brackets. They worked well but did not raise the ramps to max lift. I tig welded some tabs to them and added some valve springs to hold them up to Max height.

Worked out great.



Photo shows the modified lift springs added on the right and stock brackets left.

 

[joeworker]

I am getting an HD9 and working on locating it in the garage. Since I will be using the Aluminum ramps (there is an upgrade kit which switches out the Aluminum for Steel at lower cost), I wondered what the cons would be of allowing the ramps to stick out of the garage for loading? This would save space in the garage and you have to have the garage door open to load the car anyway.

Thoughts? How close can I put the 4 post to garage door? I installed High lift door so track is higher than posts.

J

 

[jimmie jam]

I wondered what the cons would be of allowing the ramps to stick out of the garage for loading?
Thoughts? How close can I put the 4 post to garage door? I installed High lift door so track is higher than posts.

J

It does not really matter as long as you have a flat surface for them to sit on. Most garage doors have a "key way" that drops a couple of inches to keep water from getting in under the door.

 

[snowphun]

Thoughts? How close can I put the 4 post to garage door? I installed High lift door so track is higher than posts.

Did you see this post? Another post around that time has the dimensions of the BP ramps as well. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1402438&postcount=17

I put my lift as close as possible to the door while leaving room for the ramps. Having the take them on/off to close the door or move the car would be a PITA IMO. The ramp area also provides a space to walk around the back of the lift and work on the back of the car.

I parked on the lift often, being able to open the door remotely and drive onto the lift in one motion was well worth it.

 

[joeworker]

JJ: Thanks for your response.

SnowPhun: My use of the lift is more for storage on top with option for second car.

So, normally the car will be on the cement and not the lift. If I need to do some extensive work, then I have to unload my storage above which is primarily lawn attachments as I also have a VersaLift in my garage and an upstairs.

The rest of the 24x34 garage is mostly a motorcycle custom/restore shop and I need every inch I can get. This is the reason that I would want to minimize the distance from the door, thinking about 2'.

Do you know the dimensions on the post Feet by any chance? They look like about 12" square..

J

 

[joel]

Did you see this post? Another post around that time has the dimensions of the BP ramps as well. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1402438&postcount=17

I put my lift as close as possible to the door while leaving room for the ramps. Having the take them on/off to close the door or move the car would be a PITA IMO. The ramp area also provides a space to walk around the back of the lift and work on the back of the car.

I parked on the lift often, being able to open the door remotely and drive onto the lift in one motion was well worth it.

Totally agree.

 

[CamarosRus]

Anybody in Seattle Tacoma area have a contact that will bend my flat aluminum Diamond
plate in 4 post ramps..........

Please PM or Email below

 

[boosteddsm92]

I know this is an old thread but thought I'd share my solution and this seems to be the most appropriate place. I made two locks that fit over the end of the ramp and the runway. For each lock I cut up some 4" wide by 1/4" thick plate (its what I had laying around) into 3 pieces, one 4" piece, one 3" piece and one 5.5" piece and welded the 4" and 3" piece to opposite ends of the 5.5" inch piece to form a C shape. To lock the ramp, place the lock over the ramp end and the runway. To remove the lock while the lift is in the raised position, just grab the ramp and slightly lift it, remove the clamp and then lower the ramp.

Genius, simple as can be, stealing this