4 post lift size requirements

[HuD_91gt]

Hey, designing our new garage around a 4 post lift.

What is the general rule of thumb required for area around the lift? I’ve read a minimum of 3’ on either side. I am very sq/f limited due to city bylaws so ever foot I save here can be used for other uses.

Is that from the ramps, or the posts?

My plan is to have workbenches on either side. Above the benches could be left open to allow more room when vehicle is in the air. Generally speaking the 4 post is used for storage of my Datsun 240z, but also used for all maintenance, restoration of other vehicles etc.


Secondly, how far from the garage door must be the lift? The ramps are what confuses me. Are they usually removed? Or do you leave enough room to have the ramps there when lowered?

Thanks for the dumb questions from a guy with Jack stand experience.

 

[Daedalus]

Every single lift comes with a list of installation requirements, some of which are driven by floor anchor requirements. I doubt any lift manufacturer will care where the garage door is, just where the continuous slab ends.

 

[ATC]

I would want a minimum of 4 feet from any point/corner/side/post of the lift.

 

[tfalk]

The ramps are removeable, I usually take mine off when the lift is in the air. They hang down and if I don't take them off, I smack my damn head on them every.single.time...... I have 1 lift that is closer to the door than the length of the ramps so they have to come off to close the door. Hopefully once my garage expansion project is complete, that will no longer be an issue.

As for how far away from anything else they need to be? I had 2 lifts in a 2 car garage and had the columns overlapping. Only way I could get 4 cars in a 2 car garage with an 11 foot 6 inch ceiling.

 

[Daedalus]

I had 2 lifts in a 2 car garage and had the columns overlapping.

Overlapping and right next to each other? The anchor manufacturers will say that tensile and shear capabilities of the anchors are reduced the closer the anchors are to each other. Below a certain threshold they won't even provide a value. Minimum proximity to other anchors is also something likely to be specified by the lift manufacturers for installation of their products.

 

[P0234]

Overlapping and right next to each other? The anchor manufacturers will say that tensile and shear capabilities of the anchors are reduced the closer the anchors are to each other. Below a certain threshold they won't even provide a value. Minimum proximity to other anchors is also something likely to be specified by the lift manufacturers for installation of their products.

Nice. Except most four post lifts don't require anchors.

 

[Daedalus]

Nice. Except most four post lifts don't require anchors.

Then what are the holes in the baseplates for? There is no more correct and simple an answer than to follow the manufacturer's instructions regarding anchoring. If the manufacturer says anchors aren't needed, then anchors aren't needed.

This forum really has the full spectrum of safety consciousness among its members. From people who pour 5000psi 24" deep footers to people who don't put in anchors on their lifts. On either end, I suppose they know better than the manufacturer's themselves.

Q: Does the Lift have to be anchored in place?

A: Yes, BendPak strongly recommends that you anchor the Lift; it may be less stable if you do not anchor the Bases, and you could possibly void ALI certification. If you plan to use the optional Rolling Bridge Jack, the Lift must be anchored.

 

[Spud McGee]

For the question about how much room around the posts, that kinda depends on how fat you are. 3ft is plenty for somebody to walk around. Figure if you want a tool chest, most of those are 18-24 inches wide.

For calculating how much room around the lift for working on cars, you would kinda need to know how wide the lift itself is. The size of your car is fixed. Say 7ft wide. working out from the centerline, thats 3.5ft worth of car. If you want to be able to work around the car, maybe you need 4ft worth of clearance to pull an axle out. So you'd be 7.5ft from the wall to the centerline of the lift.

Next up, will you be pulling axles down low? Or will you only do that when the lift is high? If you have the lift higher than your toolbox, then you can pull the axle out over top of the toolbox and you wont need to add in 2ft of clearance.

 

[u2slow]

I recommend putting toolchests or other rolling equipment on the sidewall nearest the lift. Easy to roll out of the way if a job requires it (pulling an axle shaft, etc). Fwiw, the longest axle shafts are going to be in a dually something... which might not be light or low enough to put up on your lift.

By my lift column I built 12" deep shelving for bolt bins and similar.... I only need about 12-14" to squeeze by anyway.

 

[Restomod68]

Then what are the holes in the baseplates for? There is no more correct and simple an answer than to follow the manufacturer's instructions regarding anchoring. If the manufacturer says anchors aren't needed, then anchors aren't needed.

This forum really has the full spectrum of safety consciousness among its members. From people who pour 5000psi 24" deep footers to people who don't put in anchors on their lifts. On either end, I suppose they know better than the manufacturer's themselves.

Q: Does the Lift have to be anchored in place?

A: Yes, BendPak strongly recommends that you anchor the Lift; it may be less stable if you do not anchor the Bases, and you could possibly void ALI certification. If you plan to use the optional Rolling Bridge Jack, the Lift must be anchored.

I cannot speak for Bendpak but I know many 4post manufacturers do not require anchoring. Part of ALI certification requires the ability to anchor the lift in earthquake prone areas, which likely explains the holes but not a requirement on some lifts.

 

[finn]

For the question about how much room around the posts, that kinda depends on how fat you are. 3ft is plenty for somebody to walk around. Figure if you want a tool chest, most of those are 18-24 inches wide.

For calculating how much room around the lift for working on cars, you would kinda need to know how wide the lift itself is. The size of your car is fixed. Say 7ft wide. working out from the centerline, thats 3.5ft worth of car. If you want to be able to work around the car, maybe you need 4ft worth of clearance to pull an axle out. So you'd be 7.5ft from the wall to the centerline of the lift.

Next up, will you be pulling axles down low? Or will you only do that when the lift is high? If you have the lift higher than your toolbox, then you can pull the axle out over top of the toolbox and you wont need to add in 2ft of clearance.

One thing I screwed up on my two post Bendpac is that on an asymmetric lift, the corner of the lift post isn’t the widest part. The tank and pump are mounted on that angled post, so they stick out towards the wall. I didn't measure it, but it feels like 8’ when I am carrying an arm full of tools or parts between the post and the wall.

 

[Poolshark314]

Then what are the holes in the baseplates for? There is no more correct and simple an answer than to follow the manufacturer's instructions regarding anchoring. If the manufacturer says anchors aren't needed, then anchors aren't needed.

This forum really has the full spectrum of safety consciousness among its members. From people who pour 5000psi 24" deep footers to people who don't put in anchors on their lifts. On either end, I suppose they know better than the manufacturer's themselves.

Q: Does the Lift have to be anchored in place?

A: Yes, BendPak strongly recommends that you anchor the Lift; it may be less stable if you do not anchor the Bases, and you could possibly void ALI certification. If you plan to use the optional Rolling Bridge Jack, the Lift must be anchored.

A lot of 4 post lifts come with caster arms so that the lift can be moved around the garage

 

[Daedalus]

A lot of 4 post lifts come with caster arms so that the lift can be moved around the garage

And?

 

[racecougar]

I have mine canted to make it easy to turn in and pull up onto the lift without having to do a three-point turn. The front column is up against the stem wall, while the rear is probably 12" from it. As the runways are inset significantly from the columns, this still leaves plenty of room to work on that side of the vehicle, pull axles, etc.

I leave the ramps on unless I'm working at that end of the lift (rear axle work, exhaust, bumper, hitch, etc.) and they're in the way.

These aren't the best pics, but they're what I have on hand at the moment to illustrate.

 

[finn]

Both of my Advantage four post lifts have aluminum ramps. They’re still not light, but definitely more manageable than steel ramps. I store them on the ramps. Removing them saves wear and tear on my skull and minimizes shadowing of the overhead lights.

 

[Imatk]

I just read the above replies and this is directly from the Bendpak website

"Unlike 2-post lifts, which absolutely need to be bolted down, 4-post lifts disperse weight across a wider surface area and are engineered to lift vehicles with or without drop-in anchor bolts . The decision to bolt down a four-post lift or other parking lift is often based on personal preference, so here are a few things to consider."

https://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/four-post-lifts/do-4-post-lifts-need-to-be-bolted-down/

 

[mike93lx]

Then what are the holes in the baseplates for? There is no more correct and simple an answer than to follow the manufacturer's instructions regarding anchoring. If the manufacturer says anchors aren't needed, then anchors aren't needed.

This forum really has the full spectrum of safety consciousness among its members. From people who pour 5000psi 24" deep footers to people who don't put in anchors on their lifts. On either end, I suppose they know better than the manufacturer's themselves.

Q: Does the Lift have to be anchored in place?

A: Yes, BendPak strongly recommends that you anchor the Lift; it may be less stable if you do not anchor the Bases, and you could possibly void ALI certification. If you plan to use the optional Rolling Bridge Jack, the Lift must be anchored.

"recommends" seems pretty important there

 

[Daedalus]

"recommends" seems pretty important there

I agree. I personally will follow what the manufacturer strongly recommends when it comes to equipment routinely supporting >5000 lbs above me, and will advocate the same to anyone else when asked. But we're all adults. No one's forcing us to do anything. Feel free to not bolt down your lift, or to crawl under a car supported only by a hydraulic jack for that matter.

 

[mike93lx]

. Feel free to not bolt down your lift, or to crawl under a car supported only by a hydraulic jack for that matter.

Dramatic much? Those aren't remotely comparable

 

[P0234]

I agree. I personally will follow what the manufacturer strongly recommends when it comes to equipment routinely supporting >5000 lbs above me, and will advocate the same to anyone else when asked. But we're all adults. No one's forcing us to do anything. Feel free to not bolt down your lift, or to crawl under a car supported only by a hydraulic jack for that matter.

Well, I guess since mine doesn't actually recommend it, you'd be ok under it, or no?

 

[tfalk]

Overlapping and right next to each other? The anchor manufacturers will say that tensile and shear capabilities of the anchors are reduced the closer the anchors are to each other. Below a certain threshold they won't even provide a value. Minimum proximity to other anchors is also something likely to be specified by the lift manufacturers for installation of their products.

I've had 1 four post lift for almost 20 years and the second for about 2 years. Neither have ever been anchored to the floor.
The second lift came with a set of casters which I may or may not have a use for one my garage is rebuilt, hopefully in a few weeks.
The new garage is going to be 35' 6" wide, 2 bays 28 deep and 1 bay 26 deep. I will be happy just having room to walk between the
columns where in a 20 wide 2 bay, it was impossible. With 3 lifts and 16 foot ceiling in the center bay, I will be able to get all
5 of the toys inside plus the wifes daily.

 

[Daedalus]

Well, I guess since mine doesn't actually recommend it, you'd be ok under it, or no?

I've already answered that question.

There is no more correct and simple an answer than to follow the manufacturer's instructions regarding anchoring. If the manufacturer says anchors aren't needed, then anchors aren't needed.

Dramatic much? Those aren't remotely comparable

Is that an opinion based on personal experience, or based on in-depth statistics of fatal occurrences per number of documented usages? LOTS of people get under cars with just a jack supporting it, and 99.999+% will probably be able to tell you they didn't have an issue. When things don't go as expected, when someone is under the vehicle, I submit the outcomes are very comparable, except that if a jack fails, it usually doesn't total the vehicle.

 

[mike93lx]

I've already answered that question.




Is that an opinion based on personal experience, or based on in-depth statistics of fatal occurrences per number of documented usages? LOTS of people get under cars with just a jack supporting it, and 99.999+% will probably be able to tell you they didn't have an issue. When things don't go as expected, when someone is under the vehicle, I submit the outcomes are very comparable.

I'm not changing your mind or approach to this. Keep doing your thing, I'll keep doing mine

 

[racecougar]

It sounds like you both are doing the same thing: following the OEM's recommendations/requirements.

 

[P0234]

I've already answered that question.




Is that an opinion based on personal experience, or based on in-depth statistics of fatal occurrences per number of documented usages? LOTS of people get under cars with just a jack supporting it, and 99.999+% will probably be able to tell you they didn't have an issue. When things don't go as expected, when someone is under the vehicle, I submit the outcomes are very comparable, except that if a jack fails, it usually doesn't total the vehicle.

Except a jack failing is a single item failing (the piston seal) and then it dropping a car on you. With a lift, multiple things would have to break for that to happen. None of which involve the floor anchors BTW.

 

[Daedalus]

Except a jack failing is a single item failing (the piston seal) and then it dropping a car on you. With a lift, multiple things would have to break for that to happen. None of which involve the floor anchors BTW.

Floor anchors increase structural integrity of the unit as a whole by limiting the stresses on those "multiple things". You can't kick out a corner post and put bending in the gusset if that corner post is anchored down. The lift would have to move as 1, and distribute the load.

Keep doing your thing, I'll keep doing mine

Agreed.

 

[bams50]

Lol, glad I came across this thread, it’s always fun to see somebody trying to act like a smarty-pants, and when they get proven foolish, they can’t admit they didn’t know what they were talking about, they try to cover it up by being pompous

 

[c39er]

Driving heavier trucks up onto my HD14 BP sometimes moved the lift forward an inch or two.
My shop floor is smooth.
I had to bolt the lift down.
Shops do the same for professional safety.

 

[finn]

Driving heavier trucks up onto my HD14 BP sometimes moved the lift forward an inch or two.
My shop floor is smooth.
I had to bolt the lift down.
Shops do the same for professional safety.

A shop where the four post is used multiple times daily probably wouldn’t have a reason to have a portable lift, and, in any event should probably have a commercial duty 12k lb plus rated lift, not a portable homeowner grade lift Rated for 8-10 k lbs. A heavy truck puts a lot more fore-aft load into the lift when loading, so it’s going to move more than when driving a 4000 lb car onto the ramps. Physics at work.

In my case, there’s no reason to lose the portability feature of the four post lifts, and in-floor radiant heat complicates drilling anchor bolt holes.

I use the shop for multiple vehicles, ranging from hobby cars to boats to CTLs, to tractors, to small motor homes. Having four posts (eight in my case) permanently mounted to the floor really hampers floor space utilization. Portability allows the lifts to be pushed to the side if they aren’t an essential part of the project at hand, ie using the rotisserie, etc.

If I was lifting the dually on a daily basis, I might think differently. Same if I had a high volume service shop where a fixed structure didn’t impede use of floor space and flexibility wasn’t a factor.

Like others said, portability is a strong selling feature of four post lifts, and makes them well suited for the hobbiest or anyone with limited floor space. The manufacturers rate them and market them as portable lifts, so there’s no rational reason to disparage that feature. If that portability feature isn’t important, by all means bolt it down.

 

[c39er]

Also I live in an earthquake area ...the 4 post could do some walking.
We all do what we need for our situations.

 

[racecougar]

I bolted mine down, with two bolts per post, as you can make out in the photos above. I used recessed anchors, so I can easily remove the bolts and wheel the lift around the shop if needed. That said, I haven't found a reason to move it in the three years I've had it.

I did notice a reduction in wiggle (when really wrenching on a car in the air with a breaker bar) after bolting it down.

My lift (Forward/DirectLift 9K) instructions stated that it wasn't necessary to bolt the lift down. I simply did it for peace of mind.

 

[boatshoes]

I ultimately bolted down my 4-post for peace of mind as well. There was a noticeable wobble beforehand, and the columns would skew depending on the loading as it lifted and lowered. It's rock-solid after bolting it down. I would recommend bolting down to anyone and everyone who's even on the fence about it.
I centered my lift on my garage door, so it's close to the wall on the side. I left just enough room to leave the heavy ramps on permanently.