4 post lift, what would you change?

[Nexussian]

For those that already have a 4 post lift, what would you change or do differently?

I have an older relation that is building a shop, he's decided on a 4 post lift, and now intends to bolt it to the floor (instead of having it moveable with casters).

For those that have done this, what would you change?

Location in the bay?

Size of the lift (wider, taller, longer, ???)?

More accessories with the original purchase (2nd sliding jack / jack tray, drip pans, aluminum ramps, etc)?


What about under lift lighting, has anyone found some they like?

Elevate the pads and grout under them (1" - 1 1/2" or so)?

Anything else I may not have thought of?

It will likely be this fall before the lift appears, so this isn't urgent, yet.

The floor is 5" 4000 Psi fiber mix with reinforcing screen
(6 x 6 x 1/4" if I recall correctly, it may be 3/16" though), much stronger than code minimums (not located in Alaska).

The eve wall is 16', the roof is 2" in 12' with a vaulted ceiling.

The door leading to the lift bay is 12' tall, 10' wide with high lift with track that follows the roof pitch and a jack shaft opener.

Thank you all in advance.




EDIT:

My apologies, I forgot to mention the garage is being built in Arizona.

I would like to thank c39er for bringing my oversight to my attention with this post.

Earth Quake country... better bolt it down.

I apologize for any confusion this caused, I strive to prevent such mistakes on my part.

 

[Gerald O]

Use internally threaded floor anchors instead of the stud type anchors that come with the lift. This leaves the floor surface flush instead of having a stud protruding from the floor when you want to move the lift.

 

[stingry]

I have had two 4 post lifts over the past 20 or so years and have never bolted them down, never saw a need to! I currently have a Bendpak 4 post and am completely satisfied with the lift EXCEPT for the fact that the runways have some sort of grit embedded in the paint. What a PITA! Extremely hard to clean and are abrasive if you run your hand across the surface. My old Eagle lift used regular deckplate for the runways, MUCH BETTER!! That is what I would change!

Cheers
Steve

 

[Nexussian]

Use internally threaded floor anchors instead of the stud type anchors that come with the lift. This leaves the floor surface flush instead of having a stud protruding from the floor when you want to move the lift.

Thank you.

 

[Nexussian]

I have had two 4 post lifts over the past 20 or so years and have never bolted them down, never saw a need to! I currently have a Bendpak 4 post and am completely satisfied with the lift EXCEPT for the fact that the runways have some sort of grit embedded in the paint. What a PITA! Extremely hard to clean and are abrasive if you run your hand across the surface. My old Eagle lift used regular deckplate for the runways, MUCH BETTER!! That is what I would change!

Cheers
Steve

Thank you.

 

[Gerald O]

I have had two 4 post lifts over the past 20 or so years and have never bolted them down, never saw a need to! I currently have a Bendpak 4 post and am completely satisfied with the lift EXCEPT for the fact that the runways have some sort of grit embedded in the paint. What a PITA! Extremely hard to clean and are abrasive if you run your hand across the surface. My old Eagle lift used regular deckplate for the runways, MUCH BETTER!! That is what I would change!

Cheers
Steve

X2 on the BendPak runways. It's like they embedded crushed glass in the paint. It'll take your skin off if you rub too hard against it! Seems cheap. I'm tempted to strip that **** off.

 

[tdkkart]

Buy the widest between post model. Current trucks are REALLY wide.

I bought this lift 2 years ago. http://www.derekweaver.com/rodders-...t-lift-pro-park-9-plus-certified-4-post-lift/

Had I bought anything narrower my stock F150 would not fit between the posts without folding the mirrors in.

VERY pleased with the lift.
I would buy a second sliding jack, either manual or air powered, up front.

 

[LXCam]

I have a Bendpak extra wide, extra long 12Klb and wouldn't change anything except wish I'd bought another hydraulic jack. I agree that antislip stuff ***** balls for cleaning, but it sure helps with traction, so I can live with it.

 

[Nexussian]

X2 on the BendPak runways. It's like they embedded crushed glass in the paint. It'll take your skin off if you rub too hard against it! Seems cheap. I'm tempted to strip that **** off.

Thank you.

 

[Nexussian]

Buy the widest between post model. Current trucks are REALLY wide.

I bought this lift 2 years ago. http://www.derekweaver.com/rodders-...t-lift-pro-park-9-plus-certified-4-post-lift/

Had I bought anything narrower my stock F150 would not fit between the posts without folding the mirrors in.

VERY pleased with the lift.
I would buy a second sliding jack, either manual or air powered, up front.

Thank you.

 

[Nexussian]

I have a Bendpak extra wide, extra long 12Klb and wouldn't change anything except wish I'd bought another hydraulic jack. I agree that antislip stuff ***** balls for cleaning, but it sure helps with traction, so I can live with it.

Thank you.

Have you found a product that cleans it better?

Was the 12K due to a heavier vehicle, or was that just what was available in long & wide?

 

[YOM1963]

For those that already have a 4 post lift, what would you change or do differently?

I have no-name brand 4 post parking lift in a 2 car with 12' ceilings. If I did it again I would definitely go higher (I'm 5'8" and I bash my head on the underside all of the time)

I would skip the jack trays and plastic drip trays, going for a rolling bridge jack and some sort of roll out/retractible drip cover (Old cars still drip. The plastic pans crack over time and leak if you get a seam under an active drip). The aluminum ramps are a must, and I have had use for the wheel kit only twice.

 

[LXCam]

Thank you.

Have you found a product that cleans it better?

Was the 12K due to a heavier vehicle, or was that just what was available in long & wide?

I bought it so it would fit my F450's with the 12ft service bodies back when I had my construction business. It fit those like a glove but it sure is nice using it for regular sized rides, there's a ton of excess space and the safety margin is way overkill too. It's so large I built arms that cantilever off the front to support the front half of a car so I can drop the engine-cradle and trans out in one assemble like you would normally do with a 2 poster.

 

[akdiesel]

I have the BendPak HD-9XW unbolted because locations and new tools always change.
The only thing I would change is the loading ramps. If they could have made them a bit narrower to have a place to fit them under the one runway that does not have any rams or cables. This would work great for long storage needs to tuck them under there and out of the way.
Lighting is a toss up. Nice on paper but seems to get either blocked or in your eyes, so I feel a hand held shop light works best for placement of lighting as needed.

 

[Nexussian]

I have no-name brand 4 post parking lift in a 2 car with 12' ceilings. If I did it again I would definitely go higher (I'm 5'8" and I bash my head on the underside all of the time)

I would skip the jack trays and plastic drip trays, going for a rolling bridge jack and some sort of roll out/retractible drip cover (Old cars still drip. The plastic pans crack over time and leak if you get a seam under an active drip). The aluminum ramps are a must, and I have had use for the wheel kit only twice.

Taller, check.

Thank you.

Have you found a better drip tray, or just make your own?

 

[Nexussian]

I bought it so it would fit my F450's with the 12ft service bodies back when I had my construction business. It fit those like a glove but it sure is nice using it for regular sized rides, there's a ton of excess space and the safety margin is way overkill too. It's so large I built arms that cantilever off the front to support the front half of a car so I can drop the engine-cradle and trans out in one assemble like you would normally do with a 2 poster.

Interesting, hadn't thought to extend one, dropping a drivetrain like the factory intended seems genius when you couldn't before.

Thank you.

 

[Nexussian]

I have the BendPak HD-9XW unbolted because locations and new tools always change.
The only thing I would change is the loading ramps. If they could have made them a bit narrower to have a place to fit them under the one runway that does not have any rams or cables. This would work great for long storage needs to tuck them under there and out of the way.
Lighting is a toss up. Nice on paper but seems to get either blocked or in your eyes, so I feel a hand held shop light works best for placement of lighting as needed.

OK, different ramps and no fixed lights.

Thank you.

 

[danscobra6]

As much as I'd like a sliding air/over bridge jack they do sit to tall for clearance on some cars. Even using bottle jacks with the original jack tray I still have problems with height. I do have the XLT wide 4 post so I picked up a jack tray for the narrow lift. I welded some gussets on the ends, now I can use standard and low profile jacks with the HF pad thing. Welded 3 bungs on the bottom so I can use an air jack on the center one. When I lower the lift the tray just moves up to ground level then follows the gussets back down when raised.

 

[LXCam]

As much as I'd like a sliding air/over bridge jack they do sit to tall for clearance on some cars. Even using bottle jacks with the original jack tray I still have problems with height. I do have the XLT wide 4 post so I picked up a jack tray for the narrow lift. I welded some gussets on the ends, now I can use standard and low profile jacks with the HF pad thing. Welded 3 bungs on the bottom so I can use an air jack on the center one. When I lower the lift the tray just moves up to ground level then follows the gussets back down when raised.

That's an excellent idea. I do have issues with some of the builds I do where they are too low for my jack.

 

[SILVERPLATE]

I would like to see some kind of easy on/easy off tool shelf that would be like four feet off the floor when installed and slide back and forth under a runway. I find myself putting tools on the runways when working under the car and sometimes struggling to grab the one I need. A hanging moving tool shelf would be cool.

 

[Autorotica]

I built a plywood deck on my Atlas 409 and used it as a table saw stand when I was installing foam insulation in my "shed". Saved me many trips up and down the ladder. I really like moving mine around to accommodate what is occurring in my space.

Chris

 

[YOM1963]

Taller, check.

Thank you.

Have you found a better drip tray, or just make your own?

I'm using a couple of galvanized drip trays stapled to wood frames. It still lets the stray drip through, but i only need 1 under the engine and trans and 1 under the rear end. I still have to pull them out to work under the car, which is why I want something retractable. But a roll up plastic drip guard creates it's own problems, namely the first time you retract it the bottom gets oily, which defeats the purpose. So i accept the metal trays



Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

 

[ibedayank]

I would like to see some kind of easy on/easy off tool shelf that would be like four feet off the floor when installed and slide back and forth under a runway. I find myself putting tools on the runways when working under the car and sometimes struggling to grab the one I need. A hanging moving tool shelf would be cool.

why we use tool carts

 

[Nexussian]

As much as I'd like a sliding air/over bridge jack they do sit to tall for clearance on some cars. Even using bottle jacks with the original jack tray I still have problems with height. I do have the XLT wide 4 post so I picked up a jack tray for the narrow lift. I welded some gussets on the ends, now I can use standard and low profile jacks with the HF pad thing. Welded 3 bungs on the bottom so I can use an air jack on the center one. When I lower the lift the tray just moves up to ground level then follows the gussets back down when raised.

Nice bridge.

Thank you.

 

[Nexussian]

I built a plywood deck on my Atlas 409 and used it as a table saw stand when I was installing foam insulation in my "shed". Saved me many trips up and down the ladder. I really like moving mine around to accommodate what is occurring in my space.

Chris

Thank you.

 

[Nexussian]

I'm using a couple of galvanized drip trays stapled to wood frames. It still lets the stray drip through, but i only need 1 under the engine and trans and 1 under the rear end. I still have to pull them out to work under the car, which is why I want something retractable. But a roll up plastic drip guard creates it's own problems, namely the first time you retract it the bottom gets oily, which defeats the purpose. So i accept the metal trays



Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk

Good to know, thank you.

 

[Nexussian]

I would like to see some kind of easy on/easy off tool shelf that would be like four feet off the floor when installed and slide back and forth under a runway. I find myself putting tools on the runways when working under the car and sometimes struggling to grab the one I need. A hanging moving tool shelf would be cool.

Interesting idea, thank you.

 

[c39er]

I bought a BP HD14 extra long, extra wide and extra tall.
It is almost 20 feet long and very wide so the posts are placed out of the way in the work bay. The posts are out of the way and when used as storage the car is up so high no issue banging heads.
I bought (thank God) two RJ7 rolling jacks and bolted it down because of earth quakes and used female drop in anchors.
Also made "Quick Flip" up ramps so they were out of the way when the lift is up in the air.
I would not change anything. It's been used a lot and no problems in 5 years.
This great site helped me decide to do this set up!

 

[Nexussian]

I bought a BP HD14 extra long, extra wide and extra tall.
It is almost 20 feet long and very wide so the posts are placed out of the way in the work bay. The posts are out of the way and when used as storage the car is up so high no issue banging heads.
I bought (thank God) two RJ7 rolling jacks and bolted it down because of earth quakes and used female drop in anchors.
Also made "Quick Flip" up ramps so they were out of the way when the lift is up in the air.
I would not change anything. It's been used a lot and no problems in 5 years.
This great site helped me decide to do this set up!

I like the ramps, is that 1" mesh?

Female drop in, are they cast in, or something else (tapcon, redhead, etc)?

Thank you.

 

[jherb10]

I built arms that cantilever off the front to support the front half of a car so I can drop the engine-cradle and trans out in one assemble like you would normally do with a 2 poster.

LXCam- Do you have pics of this? I cant picture it in my mind but it sounds like a great idea.

John

 

[LXCam]

LXCam- Do you have pics of this? I cant picture it in my mind but it sounds like a great idea.

John

I do, I'll dig up some pics later and post.

 

[jmiller_2308]

I placed LED lights in the frame rails of my lift. Being in the channel I don't have to look at them and having them around the entire car really helps to illuminate the underside of the vehicle. It is still best to have additional lighting but a cordless, magnetic, LED work lamp solves that issue nicely without having to trip over wires or find places to hang a trouble light.

Drop power from the ceiling, especially since he doesn't plan to move it. Also add power strips from the power drop around the lift. Even though I have tons of outlets in the garage it is a lot more convenient having power at the lift. No tripping over cords and very convenient.

 

[psjoyal]

Don't bolt it down. I originally thought I would bolt mine down, but I can't count the number of times that I've rolled the lift out and worked in the bright sunshine on a nice day, or moved the lift to different parts of my shop because my arrangement changed. Portability is one of the biggest advantages of a 4-post lift.

I miss my Rotary asymmetrical 2-post, but don't think I'd do without a 4-post lift again because I can easily relocate it.

 

[LXCam]

So if figures I don't have any shots that really show these but it's pretty easy to follow along. These are made from 3" W X 1/4" C channel with 2" X 1/4" thick square tubing for the uprights with 1/4" plate cap and 1/2 studs welded on that stab into the frame lift points. The opposite side has 1/4" X 4" flat bar welded to the C channel facing down that I heated and beat a 90 on the bottom that locks up underneath the lift runners. If these pictures the entire part of the C channel is on top of the lift, but I can cantilever them out past the front edge 6" or so and still let the back side lock underneath the ramps. Then depending upon where the fulcrum is I'll sometimes tie down the back of the car so it can't get tipsy.

 

[c39er]

I like the ramps, is that 1" mesh?

Female drop in, are they cast in, or something else (tapcon, redhead, etc)?

Thank you.

The female drop-In anchors are 3/4" X 10 X 3-3/16" Red Heads
The ramp grates are heavy duty 19-W-4 steel grating welded to 2" X 2" X 1/4" wall thickness square tube with steel rollers at the tip ends.

 

[jherb10]

So if figures I don't have any shots that really show these but it's pretty easy to follow along.

Thanks for posting. It gives me a good idea of what you have going on. Neat set up for sure.

John

 

[mp333]

I have a Rotary four post lift and use the jack tray with scissor jack using pneumatic wrench to raise the scissor jack from HF and works fine.

 

[Nexussian]

I placed LED lights in the frame rails of my lift. Being in the channel I don't have to look at them and having them around the entire car really helps to illuminate the underside of the vehicle. It is still best to have additional lighting but a cordless, magnetic, LED work lamp solves that issue nicely without having to trip over wires or find places to hang a trouble light.

Drop power from the ceiling, especially since he doesn't plan to move it. Also add power strips from the power drop around the lift. Even though I have tons of outlets in the garage it is a lot more convenient having power at the lift. No tripping over cords and very convenient.

What kind of LEDs? Do you have pictures?

How many strips, one on each end and another in the middle?

Thank you.

 

[Nexussian]

Don't bolt it down. I originally thought I would bolt mine down, but I can't count the number of times that I've rolled the lift out and worked in the bright sunshine on a nice day, or moved the lift to different parts of my shop because my arrangement changed. Portability is one of the biggest advantages of a 4-post lift.

I miss my Rotary asymmetrical 2-post, but don't think I'd do without a 4-post lift again because I can easily relocate it.

I'll tell him, thank you.

 

[Nexussian]

So if figures I don't have any shots that really show these but it's pretty easy to follow along. These are made from 3" W X 1/4" C channel with 2" X 1/4" thick square tubing for the uprights with 1/4" plate cap and 1/2 studs welded on that stab into the frame lift points. The opposite side has 1/4" X 4" flat bar welded to the C channel facing down that I heated and beat a 90 on the bottom that locks up underneath the lift runners. If these pictures the entire part of the C channel is on top of the lift, but I can cantilever them out past the front edge 6" or so and still let the back side lock underneath the ramps. Then depending upon where the fulcrum is I'll sometimes tie down the back of the car so it can't get tipsy.

I think we get the idea, thank you for the pics.

Does the lift seem to have any difficulty with lifting the vehicle with it off one end like that?