mgbbob
Well-known member
I watched some videos on the Advantage 4 post car hoist. It is 9000 lbs. so probably more than I was planning but looked like a quality product. Any owners out there? Advice and recommendations are always welcome.
4 post lifts
- Thread starter mgbbob
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Stuart in MN
Well-known member
Here's a discussion about Advantage lifts: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=235588 It started a few years ago but there are some current posts at the end.
bradysdad
Well-known member
Great lifts, company and customer service. Tony is great to work with. I am finishing the assembly on my 9000# 4 post and it is a solid piece. Well engineered and easy to assemble.
Go for it. You will not be disappointed.
Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app
Go for it. You will not be disappointed.
Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app
Bamafan
Well-known member
When I was looking, I found three companies with big, beefy boxed 4 post lifts that I liked: Advantage, Gemini, and Wildfire. They are all similar (though not copies as far as I can tell). I liked the features and service of the Wildfire best. They were fantastic to work with. But there are a lot of Advantage fans on here as well. I’d recommend talking to all three.
I am looking at 4 post lifts as well, but I need one with the most width possible between runners do I can do under car work including dropping an engine or trans. I also want to be able to walk under the runways when it is up and out of use or storing a car to make my shop space most useful. And I want casters so I can move it a little if needed. The one with the widest space between runners is the Bendpak HD-9XW (a shorter runway 7000lb version is also available) with 44.375” (but subtract 1.5” for each of the 2 sliding jack rails for a clear space of 41.375”) and it goes up about 7 feet.
I have checked every lift maker I can find but have not gone up with much in the way of alternatives. There is a cheaper Eagle that has similar same space between runners and that goes up high, but I am not sure the quality is the same. There are plenty of options in the 37” width range between runners but a few inches can make a big difference.
I have checked every lift maker I can find but have not gone up with much in the way of alternatives. There is a cheaper Eagle that has similar same space between runners and that goes up high, but I am not sure the quality is the same. There are plenty of options in the 37” width range between runners but a few inches can make a big difference.
sleek98
Well-known member
mgbbob, if you can wait until Mecum comes back you can snag the display model for a good deal. Plus side is he sets it up and all you have to do is show up with a car trailer to take it home if you have 10 foot doors.
We did that last spring, got the xtra tall xtra wide model with the jack. Just have to get ahold of him before hand to put a deposit on it.
The advantage lift is at my dads warehouse in Harrisonville, I ended up with 2 Perfect Park 7000. I will say lifting up mid 50s buicks the Advantage does feel a little more solid than mine when they were both unbolted. I threw some 5/8 tap con concrete screws in mine and it feels alot better now.
What are you planning on lifting?
We did that last spring, got the xtra tall xtra wide model with the jack. Just have to get ahold of him before hand to put a deposit on it.
The advantage lift is at my dads warehouse in Harrisonville, I ended up with 2 Perfect Park 7000. I will say lifting up mid 50s buicks the Advantage does feel a little more solid than mine when they were both unbolted. I threw some 5/8 tap con concrete screws in mine and it feels alot better now.
What are you planning on lifting?
Bamafan
Well-known member
The Wildfire lift goes up really high (6’10”), but only has 38” between the runners
Right now the range is from an MGB to a Jeep Wrangler to a Grand Cherokee. My son has a F450 but I don't think I need it up in the air. If we need to do a clutch I have a good trans jack for a nice level floor in my shop. I can't have everything. I do think I would like the ability for a full size 1/2 ton pick up so that is a consideration.
Jazzman442
Well-known member
I went through this a while ago. I looked at them all. I finally went with a certified lift and could not be happier. Direct lift or Challenger only 2 lifts 2 buy.
I too just set up my Advantage 9000XLT, and I am very happy with it. I can't make comparisons to other brands as this is the only one I've touched, but I can say that the construction overall is very nice. Also, the aluminum ramps and castors that come standard are great. I don't need a compressor (and hoses) to lower it. The Advantage folks are very easy to deal with and the manual with color photos, as well as on line assembly videos make set up simple. Oh, and it was packed really well, so it didn't arrive all scratched up.
In shopping around, I couldn't find the same things anywhere else at this price.
In shopping around, I couldn't find the same things anywhere else at this price.
Burl
Well-known member
I've had my Advantage 9k for a couple years, no complaints. My 2010 Silverado's tires hang over the edges about 1 1/2" on each side, but I knew that going in. The air jack is well worth the money and a better design than most.
Dad's Advantage is very nice and had the best directions and videos of any lift I've assisted assembling.
If you have access to 220 get the 220V high speed / high volume pump, regardless the brand of lift you choose.
Biggest PITA was finding the specified hydraulic fluid (AW32 IIRC) where we were.
Every source in that area but Oreilly's Auto Parts had the next grade heavier, or only a few quarts of the correct stuff.
Oreilly's had the correct spec, in their house brand and gallons (cheaper, it's a low speed system, not much concern about heat or foaming, after bleeding of course
).
I would buy one for myself. (Advantage 4 post) if I had anywhere to put it.
Buy the bridge jack, if you can at all afford it, as well as the jacking / drain tray.
If you put it open side down (flat side up) you can straddle the gap between runway and tray with the legs of a jack stand.
Much safer than trying to level a jack stand with dunnage on one side. (was shown that by an Advantage rep, after I had changed brake pads on a vehicle on said lift 
).
If you have access to 220 get the 220V high speed / high volume pump, regardless the brand of lift you choose.
Biggest PITA was finding the specified hydraulic fluid (AW32 IIRC) where we were.
Every source in that area but Oreilly's Auto Parts had the next grade heavier, or only a few quarts of the correct stuff.
Oreilly's had the correct spec, in their house brand and gallons (cheaper, it's a low speed system, not much concern about heat or foaming, after bleeding of course
).I would buy one for myself. (Advantage 4 post) if I had anywhere to put it.
Buy the bridge jack, if you can at all afford it, as well as the jacking / drain tray.
If you put it open side down (flat side up) you can straddle the gap between runway and tray with the legs of a jack stand.
Much safer than trying to level a jack stand with dunnage on one side.
(was shown that by an Advantage rep, after I had changed brake pads on a vehicle on said lift ).bradysdad
Well-known member
I just finished setting up my Advantage lift as well. I went with the standard 9000 lb and added the pneumatic assist jack and light kit. Lift came with ramps, caster kit, 4 drip trays and the jacking platform. I am very happy with the support, product and customer service.
My 14 year old son and I set it up from scratch, in just under 5 hours. Great step by step videos on You Tube. Very satisfied with my purchase.
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bradysdad
Well-known member
I went with one. Since the jack tray was included with my lift, easy enough to use the jack to lift one end, put jack stands down and then lift the other end with the jack. That is assuming you need all 4 wheels in the air at the same time.
I have been talking with a lot of representatives and it sure sounds like I need to go to a 9000 lb lift. When I start talking about doing work then everyone wants to move up to the 9000 lb model. I think that is probably the right way to go but there is a big difference in price. Any thoughts out there? When I called about the Atlas lift they even recommended going to the heavy duty 9000 model which probably makes it more expensive than the Advantage lift. Crazy.
the tray? Are they designed to do that? Does it sit flush with the runway when it is upside down?
It looked flush to me, on the demonstrator at Good Guys Phoenix; but I don't know if that's a new feature.
sleek98
Well-known member
To me it really depends on if your going to bolt it down.
Having used both a 7,000 pound and a 9,000 pound model on a 4,500-4,600 pound car. I can tell you the 7,000 pound model did not feel stable until I put some 5/8 tapcon bolts in to help stabilize the columns. The 9,000 pound atlas swayed a tiny bit but I still felt ok with it. On the 7k model I didn't want to be under or next to it with the car 6-1/2 foot up until it was anchored.
If your planning on anchoring it down save the cash and get the 7k. The list of cars you have listed the only thing that would be close is a 1/2 ton truck which usually top out around 5,500 pounds.
Life is too short to worry about what will work or not work. I am going with the Advantage lift. I figure if I am walking around a couple of tons a few hundred dollars is a good investment. I am going all in with the XLT and a bridge jack. Life will be better in a few weeks. Bob
How long is the wheelbase of the car you will be lifting primarily? The lift capacity depends on wheelbase and lift runner length. Look into those details.