mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
So OP, what did you decide?
4" Schedule 80 PVC Pipe Repair
- Thread starter 1190R
- Start date
Good question
1. I bought 2 extra deep PVC couplings https://www.homedepot.com/p/DURA-4-in-Schedule-40-PVC-Extra-Deep-Coupling-SxS-479-040/203217869
2. I plan to remove the center stop on one with https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HE8F0Q/?tag=atomicindus08-20 (Thank you Renegade1LI for the idea)
3. Repair one end of the break with unmodified PVC coupling
4. Lightly sand ends of pipes at other end of break so modified coupling will slide
5. Make mark on pipe so modified coupling will end up centered on second break
6. Glue up second end of break and use oil wrench to slide modified coupling into place https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003969PLM/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Will report on results
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Good luck. I definitely wouldn't use a fast setting glue. You are going to need some time to get that all in place
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
S40 couplings on S80 pipe?
Yup
Good catch
I actually mistyped
Everything is schedule 40 except for the transition from underground PVC pipe to metal hydrant riser
rlitman
Well-known member
As I'm thinking this through, some thoughts...
If you use a permanent marker to center the coupling, the cement will wipe off the mark.
Purple primer will get dragged around by the glue too.
If you have a spare hose clamp, you could use that as a stop and remove it when you're done.
You're leaving that oil filter wrench in the ground when you're done?
The cement lubricates the fitting for a moment before it sets. I'd purple prime only the areas you need to bond, but on the side you're slipping the coupling onto, apply the cement all the way up as far as the coupling will travel. That way, the dry pipe doesn't bind up the coupling, and the coupling doesn't return to a dry joint.
Good luck!
Yup. I was just going to etch a mark but a hose clamp is good too
Hadn't thought of that. Now you've got me thinking of a way to salvage the $10 wrench
That's my plan. Also looking to buy some slow set cement like https://www.oatey.com/products/hercules-heavy-body-slow-set-gray-pvc-cement-1440121123
rlitman
Well-known member
I just (in the past week or two) did a few 3" connections using the clear green label Oatey Heavy Duty cement. If you didn't hold the fitting on for at least 5-10 seconds, it would want to pop out. There are a few seconds of working time. Just not a lot. Worst case scenario, if you can get a heat gun all around the pipe, you can debond a fitting.
Running with the hose clamps idea, you could probably make the coupling more work-glove grippable with several wrapped around it like the lacing on a football. I think that would work better than the oil filter wrench. The twisting part will be easy, it's the horizontal pushing that has me concerned.
Running with the hose clamps idea, you could probably make the coupling more work-glove grippable with several wrapped around it like the lacing on a football. I think that would work better than the oil filter wrench. The twisting part will be easy, it's the horizontal pushing that has me concerned.
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Good idea
Thanks
Have you used it?
RPH
Well-known member
Mean while at the job site…..
rlitman
Well-known member
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
I've used Weldon slow PVC cement before. It was good. You had about 10-15 minutes open time. But, it cures fully overnight. One caveat, I used it decades ago. Like in the 70's. Things may have changed. No matter what you use, go to the factory website and download the documents. Read fully.
Mr_fixit
Well-known member
from my experience worm clamps are only partly stainless steel, the rest is steel that rusts apart. That would be bad.
rlitman
Well-known member
You're buying cheap clamps. All stainless clamps cost a little more, but are worth it. All 300 series stainless clamps are a few pennies more than that, and are even more worth it.
RPH
Well-known member
I worked with induction heating converters. Don’t know how many water hoses I put on because somebody used the wrong clamp. Lots are steel and that heats inside the magnetic field. Clamp get hot, melt into and blow off. Water now spraying all over high voltage and controls. Yup, they saved money. True stainless clamps are non- magnetic, we paid extra for it. Every now and then they would ship the wrong clamps. You locate them quickly.
Do not do the '4 - 90's approach'... Absolutely best way to restrict flow and basically guarantee a water hammer blowout the first time the hydrant is used and then shut down. Hymax couplings will be the easiest and quickest repair. A less costly but slightly more time and labor solution would be to use a long body coupling with Mega lugs and gaskets. 30 plus years in the water main industry / State licensed Master Plumber FWIW....
FOLLOW UP
Did the repair as planned in post #42
Was much easier than I thought it would be
The extra deep couplings were the key
Removing the center stop with the Socket Saver was fine but left grooves which I smoothed with a flap wheel https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08MZK525D/?tag=atomicindus08-20
This left the modified coupling snug but able to slide with a little coaxing from a plastic dead blow hammer
I didn't use the filter wrench because it did not fit and was not needed
The slow set cement provided great lubrication and allowed the coupling to slide into place without any coaxing
My takaways
1. Saved a lot of money
2. Feel much better about this repair than using an expansion coupling or four 90s
3. Extra deep coupling is key
Did the repair as planned in post #42
Was much easier than I thought it would be
The extra deep couplings were the key
Removing the center stop with the Socket Saver was fine but left grooves which I smoothed with a flap wheel https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08MZK525D/?tag=atomicindus08-20
This left the modified coupling snug but able to slide with a little coaxing from a plastic dead blow hammer
I didn't use the filter wrench because it did not fit and was not needed
The slow set cement provided great lubrication and allowed the coupling to slide into place without any coaxing
My takaways
1. Saved a lot of money
2. Feel much better about this repair than using an expansion coupling or four 90s
3. Extra deep coupling is key
Attachments
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Looks serviceable again. Have you pressure tested it yet?
No and am hoping Fire Dept doesn't make me
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
If you truly fixed it you shouldn’t be worried about it holding pressure.