40 x 50 workshop new build

[jonnmtjuliet]

I started on this awhile back and had to take a pause. It guess it worked out for the better because it grew. Originally I was putting in a 30 x 40 but now I'm going with a 40x50. Because of what the land gave me I really couldn't go the pole barn route but I think I'll like this better anyway. It has a footer and block foundation and will be stick built 2x6 walls. Concrete is coming on Monday and would like to have provisions for a lift later so I'm going 6" in the middle bay to support it.

How wide of a pad do I need to cover the lift? I know there are different sizes for the brands but in general what is a good foot print?

here's a few pictures... I'll stain the split face block to match the house.

 

[matt_i]

Looks like its going to be good! Do you have your stub(s) in for electric service already - meaning pre-concrete? That could get tricky later on.

 

[jonnmtjuliet]

i ran a 2" for power and two 1" that is coming up through the footer right behind the walk door. I didn't know where the block would land so I'm a little further from the wall than I wanted but will have to see if I can get it over there without being in the way before we pour which with the rain will probably be later in the week now.

 

[jonnmtjuliet]

progress is being made... I spent money taking out big rocks now I'm spending more bringing in smaller ones. The drainage tile is covered and everything is compacted and ready to go but with Fred rolling past us we are going to wait until Monday to pour. I decided to go with 4" pour on the whole pad and when I decide to put the lift in I'll cut out the pads and pour then. Its been a long time coming on this project.

 

[couch67]

looking great OP, that is going to be a nice sized shop!

 

[78SC4X4]

I decided to go with 4" pour on the whole pad and when I decide to put the lift in I'll cut out the pads and pour then.

You might reconsider this. Most lift manufactures require a much more substantial pad when you separate from the larger slab. And cutting, and removing that material sounds like a miserable job. I increased the slab thickness to 6" in the potential area only to ensure enough depth for the anchor bolts. Based on my look at several manufacturers, I made 30" square areas on a 10' center.

 

[jonnmtjuliet]

You might reconsider this. Most lift manufactures require a much more substantial pad when you separate from the larger slab. And cutting, and removing that material sounds like a miserable job. I increased the slab thickness to 6" in the potential area only to ensure enough depth for the anchor bolts. Based on my look at several manufacturers, I made 30" square areas on a 10' center.

I hear what you're saying but I don't think it will be terrible to do it afterword. A concrete saw and a little elbow grease should take care of it.

 

[jonnmtjuliet]

Finally got the slab down and cut today. Apron tomorrow and then pea gravel on Wednesday.

 

[bbxlr8]

That looks awesome! It will be worth it. I really like the apron part - had a friend neglect doing this on a similar size project and It always is an issue when it rains hard

 

[Lucid Moments]

I realize it is a little late now, but for reference when I poured my slab I had 4'X4' sections dug out to 1' deep where I put the lift columns and then the slab was a single pour.

 

[jonnmtjuliet]

I realize it is a little late now, but for reference when I poured my slab I had 4'X4' sections dug out to 1' deep where I put the lift columns and then the slab was a single pour.

that would have been a great idea. I think my real issue is I was too indecisive of where I wanted to put the lift.

 

[jonnmtjuliet]

Concrete is done! The contractor did a great job. If anyone is in middle TN area and needs concrete I have a guy for you. Not the best pictures but you get the idea. It all turned out great.

 

[jonnmtjuliet]

Time to pull together my build of materials for framing I need to decide how I want to handle the walls. I'm doing 2x6 with a double bottom plate. on the stem walls 3 are at 16" and the right wall is 2'. In hindsight I should have just had them all at 2' but here we are.

I was planning on 14' eaves but I'd rather not waste a lot of wood. Would it be a bad idea to go with 2x6x12 and just cut 8"'s off the studs for the right wall? It will have metal on the outside and more than likely metal paneling on the inside. I could go with 14's and cut them all down as I would probably use the cuts as blocking if long enough. What do you think.

 

[BORING HOP YARD]

This is going to be a real nice set up.
As far as the length of wood, my goal would be to utilize the most of every stick.
Tossing 8" away from each stud will add up on a 40 x 50 build.
I have white metal siding on my ceiling and 6' down the walls in my shop and really like it.
My walls are 12' on top of 18" tall foundation, never had a height issue with anything I put on the lift.
Good luck on your build, thanks for sharing.

 

[jonnmtjuliet]

This is going to be a real nice set up.
As far as the length of wood, my goal would be to utilize the most of every stick.
Tossing 8" away from each stud will add up on a 40 x 50 build.
I have white metal siding on my ceiling and 6' down the walls in my shop and really like it.
My walls are 12' on top of 18" tall foundation, never had a height issue with anything I put on the lift.
Good luck on your build, thanks for sharing.

nice shop! I really like the tele. Since the right 40' wall is 8" higher than the rest I'll have to do some cutting. If I go with 12' material that would almost get me to 14' and should be plenty of height in the shop. I'll still have to cut the stud's on the 40' wall though.

 

[IOWAPUB]

Any progress on this build?
It looks like what I'll be starting on this Spring.

 

[jonnmtjuliet]

Not Really. I did do some dirt work and rough in my lean-to side. I used some of the larger rocks to build a retaining wall. Don't judge too hard on the wall I did it by myself with pallet forks on a skid steer in the rain. I missed the drop in lumber prices late last year so I'm just waiting for things to come down a bit and then I'll start framing. I did add another row of blocks on the other 3 walls so I can just go with 2x6x12 with no cuts.

My plan has deviated a bit on the finishing as I'm going to go with a lap siding and shingle for the roof. Wife didn't think the metal would look good next to the house.

Here's where I'm at... a very nice parking lot

 

[derek_m]

Was the block work done by the same contractor as the concrete or did you do that?

 

[jonnmtjuliet]

I had a block contractor do the footer and block work. Then had the concrete contractor come in and do all the flat work. I did the added row to the three walls. Nobody would come over to drop 72 blocks so I just did it. Took me a day they would have done it in an hour including clean-up. They both did great work but not inexpensive.

 

[IOWAPUB]

Thanks for the update. That is exactly what I am looking to build. I'm have difficulties finding people to do the work.

 

[jonnmtjuliet]

Good luck with your project. I think in our current status patience and deeper pockets are important.

 

[jonnmtjuliet]

Well it looks like lumber prices have finally decided to come back down to a more manageable price so I'm going over my framing plan and now I've been asked to add storage above. By storage they want a space for the kids to hangout not really a living space I'm not adding a bathroom... my problem is I'd have to clear span 40' and the only option is storage trusses. Is it really worth it? I'd provide access to the space with outside steps. I guess I could add a dormer as well but my simple framing is starting to get complicated...

Any recommendations on the best path forward without adding serious money to the project?

 

[zc15]

I think you may end up with support beams or very expensive trusses due to your span. Menards sells gable-room-in-attic trusses up to 36' wide, which would have added $4000 in truss costs alone compared to standard trusses. Not to mention windows, stairs, electrical, hvac, drywall, etc.

 

[jonnmtjuliet]

I think you may end up with support beams or very expensive trusses due to your span. Menards sells gable-room-in-attic trusses up to 36' wide, which would have added $4000 in truss costs alone compared to standard trusses. Not to mention windows, stairs, electrical, hvac, drywall, etc.

I think you're right. I'll have to look at a few different ways to see if anything makes sense. I guess I could build a mezzanine or do support beams for a partial second floor. Either way it gets $xpensive. I plan on framing it myself to keep the costs down so I'd prefer to keep it as simple as possible.

 

[Lucid Moments]

To get my 50' span I ended up going with steel trusses, but I was adamant that I wanted a clear floor with no posts in it at all. I am looking into adding a loft now for storage. Haven't made a firm decision on that yet.

 

[billconner]

You can span 40' - might need a steel beam or truss - but the concentrated loads at the end of that member are likely more than what was needed for the walls and roof.

Unless are is a third or less of main floor area and open to main floor, this is a second floor and is habitable space, so possible code consequences. Certainly 5/8" drywall ceiling under and 1/2" on demising wall.

Just wondering if a separate building or on grade addition isn't simpler and less expensive.

 

[jonnmtjuliet]

We'll I've given up on the second floor but in the meantime I decided to try my hand at Sketchup. Talk about a couple frustrated days... However, I have a very rough drawing of what I'm planning and its nice to virtually frame it. I'm still building it out but do have a question. I was going to do a lean-to but I think I like the idea of just extending the roof line so I can enclose it in the future. Its a 14' span which shouldn't be a problem but does anyone have any pictures of how I would attach to the wall and what extra framing I would need.

 

[jarhead]

If it was me I'd run two-three glue LAM beams for truss support.

 

[jonnmtjuliet]

Well I guess its time to get busy again...

 

[jonnmtjuliet]

Progress was slow this weekend as a one man band and fighting the rain but I managed to get the long wall up... I hope to be ready to hang trusses this coming weekend.

 

[BORING HOP YARD]

No fun to build it by yourself, looks like in the end you're going to enjoy a nice big shop.
Great work!
Keep your eye on the prize

 

[jonnmtjuliet]

Thanks. I'm just taking it one piece at a time. With short days now not a lot are going to happen during the week.

 

[rwreuter]

I like!

 

[Blackbyrd]

That's gonna be a nice space!

Shame tn weather isn't cooperating currently

 

[Derick k]

Work well done

 

[jonnmtjuliet]

It was wet, cold, and riddled with equipment failure but I was still able to make some really good progress. The family came down to lend a hand and I was thankful for it. Its starting to look like something now. I have all the walls up and squared. I have the concrete piers poured and ready to mount the brackets for the posts. Once I get that framing up it will be truss flying time...

btw am I the only one who thinks lumber is a bit cavalier with their #2 rating.

So here's how I finished this weekend.


Here's the jenky lift. Would have been great if it actually worked. in two days I was only able to put 1.5 hours on the meter.

 

[MacTexas]

Nice space.

 

[BORING HOP YARD]

Very nice progress, it's nice to have family to help out.

 

[jonnmtjuliet]

Made some more progress on the shop. Well a couple steps forward and then a bit of a battle with mother nature. Spent Saturday getting the trusses up and doing some temporary bracing as we went. Didn't finish until dark and instead of bracing more I decided to stop until Sunday morning. Well I awoke to 30 mph gusting winds and a bit of a pucker factor almost lost the trusses. So spent all of Sunday trying to get it straightened out. Now I have another storm rolling in tomorrow afternoon/night. Hopefully it goes south but I'll add a few more braces to hopefully get past it until I can spend more time doing the permanent purlins and internal bracing. Its slow going and many a times I asked myself why I just didn't sign a check on this one... oh well I'm in it now until the end.

 

[jarhead]

you will be glad when you are finished that you built it. Ive done a 24x28, and a 24x40 with help of my family and a friend.