400A All-In-One

[Ironcrow]

I have what my electrical supply guy calls a 400A all-in-one panel on a pedestal feeding my property. The idea is to divide it into two 200A feeds, one for the house and one for the shop. The all-in-one panel has positions for like 30 breakers on one of the 200A legs, which I am not using, as the all-in-one is a main breaker panel with meter feeding two 200A subpanels in my application. Each subpanel has a 200A breaker at the top.

OK, so, my solar power guy wants to 'derate' the shop half of this set-up (under construction) to 150A with the solar on the roof and batteries in the attic of my shop. He's got his arcane reasons which I don't fully understand. Can I just pop the 200A breakers out of the shop side of the all-in-one and its mate in the shop subpanel and replace with 150A? I can't see why not, but there's something about the non-symmetrical 150A and 200A breakers sitting next to each other in that all-in-one that just looks funny.

But, it's no different than if I had a regular 200A panel and my neighbor had a 150A panel, right?

 

[Ironcrow]

Thanks for the suggestion. Yes, I am on APS and will need a separate meter and disconnect for the solar system. I've just buried that conduit. It goes from the shop to the pedestal and back to the shop.

 

[JB740i]

Batteries in the attic? Won't the heat affect their life negatively?

 

[Ironcrow]

Batteries in the attic? Won't the heat affect their life negatively?

Generally, yes, heat will shorten their life significantly. In this case, the battery and other storage space are air conditioned.

 

[Ironcrow]

Do I just call the power company to drop the power, they wait while I swap the main breaker (10 minute job), and the power company reconnects me? Or do they refuse to wait and instead want to come back the next day to reconnect?

Or do I cut the seal on the meter, pull it out, do the main breaker swap, put the meter back in, and call the power company to re-seal it?

I know one thing for a fact - I DO NOT do a hot swap on this job. I'll confess to doing a hot job on a 115 V receptacle here and there when I'm in a hurry...but not 230V 400A with NO breaker in the circuit

 

[rlk]

I had something similar done at my place. After the rough-in electrical inspection by the county inspector, the electrician pulled the meter, did what he needed to do, then put the meter back and sealed it himself. He then called for the final inspection.

The power company never set foot on the property.

Bob

 

[Ironcrow]

Why not swap the breaker out when APS is on site to power the meter socket for the solar array?

That's a darn good idea. My solar panel delivery is two months out and I want to hook up my subpanel, get it inspected, and rough in some electrical, etc so I was thinking I needed to get my main breaker swapped. Duh! I can do it with the pedestal at 200A, the subpanel at 150A, and move ahead. Only the solar system demands the 150A derate. You're right, I'll just have the 150A main breaker on hand when APS arrives to commission the solar panels. I'm such an idiot!

 

[tfi racing]

I'm curious as well.The 200A breakers are there to protect the conductors between the all in one and the garage.If they are not being changed and are rated for 200A,why change the breakers,or am I not getting the whole picture?

 

[Ironcrow]

Does the 30 space in the all in one have feed through lugs to attach the wires to feed a sub panel?

Yes, that is how I've wired the shop subpanel.

 

[Ironcrow]

I'm curious as well.The 200A breakers are there to protect the conductors between the all in one and the garage.If they are not being changed and are rated for 200A,why change the breakers,or am I not getting the whole picture?

Yeah, I'm squinting at low resolution jpg files. When the guy shows up with the solar panels, I'll get readable schematics and documentation on all the pieces.

In a nutshell, the system is configured to expand to an eventual 8 kW with two inverters and batteries. The solar end of the system makes 150A and will be grid tied but switchable to run off the panels or the batteries if the sun is not shining when there is a power company outage. And that's the deal, if that part of the system is 150A, the switching makes more sense if the power company end is sized at 150A as well.

 

[sajohnson]

What you're doing sounds very interesting.

Anything you can scan and post would be helpful.

I've got a couple of Trace DR2424 inverters and 12 golf cart batteries I use as a whole house UPS, but they aren't grid tied.

 

[Ironcrow]

BTW 8 KW is about 33 amps.

Yes, I know. As you are aware, one can draw energy from batteries at a stunning rate. The inverters are good for 150A.

 

[Ironcrow]

What you're doing sounds very interesting.

Anything you can scan and post would be helpful.

I've got a couple of Trace DR2424 inverters and 12 golf cart batteries I use as a whole house UPS, but they aren't grid tied.

My scanner is broken right now. When I get up to speed, I'll post info and pictures. I know people are interested in solar stuff.

The inverters are dual Sunny Island 5048U at over $5000 each

 

[Ironcrow]

Yeah, generally like that. There is additional complication with a remote pedestal, two subpanels, and emergency loads that are not all of the subpanel.
Thirty six 235W panels are wired to make 48V.