40x55 2 story.Any Structural Engineers with help?

[CapnAl]

I am building a 40x55 two-story garage and could use help/advice. Picture a walk-out basement in a house and that is what the basement/lower level would be like. The upper floor will be supporting 12 cars. I have investigated various methods for the upper floor including pre-stressed concrete planks, but have decided on a poured concrete floor over steel decking and supporting steel beams. Budget dictates a center support beam from front to rear with 3 support columns. At least 16 20' beams would attach to the center beam (8 on each side of said center beam) and to the 12" concrete block walls (core filled and re-barred) on the outside perimeter. I would like to know what size steel beams and decking and support columns I would need. Once the engineering questions are out of the way, I will be seeking suggestions on the rest of the build. We are required to make the garage look like the hose, with brick, vinyl siding, windows, and architectural shingles to match the house. The garage area is sloped, hence the use of a two-level approach to this project. I look forward to sharing my project as it progresses. Thank You everyone who can offer help/advice

 

[DEnd]

You need to find a structural engineer, or an architect in your state. You will likely need stamped drawings to get a building license for what you are trying to do.

 

[Stuart in MN]

I'm an electrical engineer and not a structural engineer, but I think it's safe to say that sizing the beams, decking and columns is more than can be accomplished with a quick back of the envelope calculation. A registered engineer won't be able to provide this sort of thing on a web board, both because of the liability involved plus it's going to be more work than they're willing to do for free. I agree that you're going to have to hire an engineer in your area.

It does sound like an interesting project, I hope you can keep us updated on your progress.

 

[arkyengineer]

You need to hire a local, licensed (PE/SE) structural engineer. Just a heads up but this will be very expensive to build. When we do structural decks use $1000 per CY installed (in Arkansas) to do our cost estimates and that does not include the structural steel supports.

 

[DekeT]

Send me the architectural plans and intended uses for each area and I can send back a stamped set of plans for structural support. Also include $12,500 for shipping and handling fees.

 

[kbs2244]

Talk to the steel supplier you will be useing.
Most have an engineer on staff or retainer and can give you all the advice you need.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Send me the architectural plans and intended uses for each area and I can send back a stamped set of plans for structural support. Also include $12,500 for shipping and handling fees.

I think you're underbidding the job.

 

[wssix99]

No licensed structural engineer would answer the question at the top of the thread as it would risk their license.

Talk to the steel supplier you will be useing.
Most have an engineer on staff or retainer and can give you all the advice you need.

This is good advise. They can help you ball park what the structure will be so you can adjust your budget before hiring an engineer to do the final design and drawings.

... Then you'll have to go back and forth between the two to value engineer your situation. You will probably find that adjusting the number of columns will make a huge difference on price and the size of the steel you need.

 

[EdT]

A friend of mine built a similar sized building using poured concrete floors and structural steel. Similar to you plan, the building is built into a hillside. It's 3 stories tall on the open end and one story tall at the buried end. He was able to arrange it so that he can drive into all three levels. He had to get a lot of structural work done by a licensed PE. IIR the footer for the buried end was about 4 x 6' in cross section and, of course, as wide as the building. Stuff like that ***** up a lot of concrete. Anyhow, it can be done. Assuming this is going to be an inspected project, I think I'd visit the local building dept first (it's free) and tell them what you have in mind and see how they feel about it. If they say, for pick a reason, that NFW can you do that kind of thing in that kind of place at least you don't have a lot of money ******* in engineering work that you can't use. They may also be able to point you to a structural guy who they "like" and that can lead to a lot less guessing later in the project. My personal experience with building inspectors is that sometimes knowing what they "like to see" is more important than perfect code compliance. If they "like to see" Joe Blow's name on the drawing it can be smoother sailing. Although the relationship between the inspectors and the builder can sometimes be strained, I have found they can also be very helpful for some things. When I built my shop I wanted to put the breaker box in a non-code location because I felt it would be the best location for the intended use of the building. I got with the inspector and explained why I wanted to do that and he agreed and when the rough in inspection came, there were no surprises.

 

[Strouty]

I look forward to seeing the build progress, but you will not get "help" like what you are asking. If you do get "help", take it with a grain of salt. If you're being required to have the building match the house to meet code, they will also require you to have a signed stamped drawing from a structural engineer.

I would look around at different building systems and local companies. Around here a lot of places will design something for you as long as you purchase their materials.

If you are trying to do everything on the cheap, you will probably not get what you want for what you are willing to pay for.

A shop like that is going to cost a lot of money and the engineering is a drop in the bucket.

 

[CapnAl]

Thanks everyone for your input. A good suggestion to get the inspector involved early on. Yes, I am trying to work on a budget, (who isn't) and I have been gathering supplies whenever I can find a good deal, typically from Craigslist, but many things will have to be bought at the going rate. This township is very garage friendly, but the developer has architectural control and hence the brick to grade, brick front, and siding and shingles to match the house. I figure upper floor for parking/storage, and lower floor as working/shop/project area. I'll be watching the forum to see if I can learn from others' experiences. My brother has given me his John Deere backhoe/loader and although I'll still have an excavator doing the digging, I'll have a machine here for lifting, moving, whatever until the project is complete.