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40x60 Shop Build - First Steps

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AuroraSC

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+1 on 18' doors. Or at least do a 18' on the left that would give you the option to park cars side by side on that side of the shop if you concentrated tools/benches behind your two post(s). I feel like there is a lot of wasted space in your drawings which you may regret later. The 18' door(s) would give you options in the future. That's what I did and I am quite pleased with it. It also makes backing trailers in really easy even with my 90 degree turn from the driveway.

BTW, subscribed.

-Hillrod

The layout is mostly just to figure out where I need to add extra concrete for the lift(s) and determine the bathroom situation which then drives the location of the doors and such.

My intention is to put in the first lift as soon as the money allows it but the second is just potential future planning. I want to make sure I have the extra depth of concrete for such things if I ever choose to make that jump.

For the LHS passthrough side I'm trying to keep it flexible to be used for just about anything. The RHS is what I'm trying to nail down soon so that I can give final requirements to the builder. Generally trying to keep the lift and mechanic area up front with the bathroom and then put the basic metal fab parts closer to the rear. The thought behind the secondary lift at an angle is so that it could be fed independently from the passthrough side and not require pulling something off the first lift to get something on the second lift.

Is there anything specific you feel like I'm missing in the layout that would be a better use of space?

I did a quick sketch of an 18' wide door and while I see the merit of one, it would turn the front of the building into a lot of door in my opinion. It would also look a little funny due to having the RHS door location being fairly set due to fit the bathroom.

uDMULB0.png
 
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wisconsin hillrod

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The layout is mostly just to figure out where I need to add extra concrete for the lift(s) and determine the bathroom situation which then drives the location of the doors and such.

My intention is to put in the first lift as soon as the money allows it but the second is just potential future planning. I want to make sure I have the extra depth of concrete for such things if I ever choose to make that jump.

For the LHS passthrough side I'm trying to keep it flexible to be used for just about anything. The RHS is what I'm trying to nail down soon so that I can give final requirements to the builder. Generally trying to keep the lift and mechanic area up front with the bathroom and then put the basic metal fab parts closer to the rear. The thought behind the secondary lift at an angle is so that it could be fed independently from the passthrough side and not require pulling something off the first lift to get something on the second lift.

Is there anything specific you feel like I'm missing in the layout that would be a better use of space?

I did a quick sketch of an 18' wide door and while I see the merit of one, it would turn the front of the building into a lot of door in my opinion. It would also look a little funny due to having the RHS door location being fairly set due to fit the bathroom.

uDMULB0.png


That's approximately how mine is...18' door on "storage side" 10' door on "shop" side. Except shop door is centered.

31118562130_c6d5607c51.jpg


I've got a ~17*17 room framed out behind the "shop" bay which gives me a wall to put workbench, toolbox etc against. With your bathroom there it does look a bit odd from the front.

What I mean by wasted space is what I see by and large with pole buildings...people generally put 1 door in the center which means you have to waste space inside to use as a driveway/road to wherever you are going to park things. With a narrow door on the left you won't be able to use space as efficiently as you will need space to pull in to the left or right of it.

If I could have I would have built the building with the 50' wide side facing the street so I could have a 3rd front door. In my opinion the best building is 30-40' deep by as wide as you can afford ha. Obviously budget and aesthetics make that generally not possible.

Anyway it is looking good and anyway you go about it will be great!

-Hillrod
 
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AuroraSC

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Just talked to the builder about the patio addition and it sounds like the money just isn't going to work out. I may try to add that on a little later on when funds open up.

Hoping to get the first load(s) of foundation dirt this week. Fingers crossed.
 
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AuroraSC

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I've been working on the electrical here lately trying to plan ahead a bit. I think this layout should give a good general lighting to the shop. If I need to add more in certain areas I will later on.

 
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AuroraSC

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I just noticed the previous lightin image didn't load properly. Fixed it, so it should be shown now.

Yesterday I got the foundation area mowed down low to receive the first loads of material this week. I'll get some pictures loaded here in a bit.
 

Jeeper89

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Rockford MI
View media item 72553On my 40x60 I did a 12 wide 14 tall door and a 20 wide 14 tall. My truck will park in the 12 wide and the 20 is used for my pontoon boat and camper. I also have a 12 wide 14 tall in the side near the back that will be for my shop area.
 
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AuroraSC

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My current aspirations don't tend to include boats or RV's to any great extent. A quick googling shows that wide car haulers run in the 102" range which should sneak into the 12' door without too much issue. That's the widest object I can think of at the moment that I could forsee needing to pull in and out.

I'm not trying to skimp on things, but I'm also trying to be realistic in what I can spend and where the most value lies for my situation. A 40x40 with 10x10 doors would likely cover me for 95% of what I do, so I've bumped that to 60 deep with the triple 12x12's as a sort of future proofing.
 

Jeeper89

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I understand exactly what you are saying. I just wanted to be able to get things in and out as easy as I could. My plan started with three 10' wide doors across the front: I staked it out and pulled my crew cab dually between the stakes and felt it was a little to tight to park in every day. When I went 12 wide I switched to one large 20' door for the boat and camper. I am building it all myself and it is a ton of work, the 16' ceilings make for a lot of ladder work. Material was delivered on May 26th and I hope to finish the soffit this weekend. I am looking forward to seeing the progress on your barn.
 

lakeroadster

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Here are some of the pictures of the progress.




Awesome looking neighborhood... Those are some beautiful homes.

I'll say it, and you'll hate it.... Your barn design is going to look so out of place there. Have you thought that through?

I anticipate a lot of pissed off neighbors... and a pissed off wife.

More overhang, colors that compliment the house and area, a roof pitch / style that matches the house and a lower side wall will make the barn look less industrial.
 
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AuroraSC

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If you post on a public forum, you're bound to get some feedback both positive and negative. Even if I don't necessarily agree, I can appreciate your consideration. I've included a street view picture of a couple other homes from my neighborhood that have similar buildings to my intention.



 

lakeroadster

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If you post on a public forum, you're bound to get some feedback both positive and negative. Even if I don't necessarily agree, I can appreciate your consideration.

Thanks. I'd rather post something & generate some thought, than sit on the sidelines and have you later say, I wish you would have said something.

Enough said. :thumbup:
 
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AuroraSC

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I finally found a color visualizer that had a sample that was similar to my intentions.

Taupe and Charcoal don't seem to be as common as Grey and Charcoal, but I think it makes it look less industrial. I prefer the charcoal on top version.



 
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AuroraSC

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I've had some friends suggest moving to a 16' wall so that if I wanted a second story for storage, it could be done and walking without crouching would be attainable. Any thoughts?
 

baron405

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i'm doing this, a bi level building

https://scontent-dft4-3.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/21371408_817018451790930_672007871463089748_n.jpg?oh=84bc0d11a79028c5900efb988f33e634&oe=5A53FF78
 

Jeeper89

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I've had some friends suggest moving to a 16' wall so that if I wanted a second story for storage, it could be done and walking without crouching would be attainable. Any thoughts?

The cost of going up, isn't all that bad. That's a big reason I went 16 over 14. I just gives me a lot more options down the road. I went with 14' tall doors, then about as I was going to get started building the cable company ran some new lines that at only 12'5" above my driveway. So the 14' doors don't really do me a lot of good.
 
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AuroraSC

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The cost of going up, isn't all that bad. That's a big reason I went 16 over 14. I just gives me a lot more options down the road. I went with 14' tall doors, then about as I was going to get started building the cable company ran some new lines that at only 12'5" above my driveway. So the 14' doors don't really do me a lot of good.

I talked to the builder briefly and it sounds like it going to be more money than I can justify. I'm already pushing the budget a bit going this large, as I've already got a list of shop tools and things that I want to do once the silly thing is erected.

Decision making week is upon.
 

Jeeper89

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I am building my own so it's just material cost for me. I will say that it seems like I spend more time moving ladders and setting up planks than I doin getting work done. I can see where a builder would charge a lot more. I just keep thinking about running wires for electrical alone will be a ton of work when its 16 feet high. I did just buy a 12' warehouse ladder that will help out a ton for doing that. I can't wait to see the progress, but I'm sure yours will be finished long before mine. (I just got the soffit and fascia done yesterday)
 
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AuroraSC

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A big weight was lifted off yesterday. The extra vehicle was sold yesterday which will help with the funding. Should be full steam ahead as soon as the check clears.

I ordered a wall fan and a pair bookshelf speakers yesterday to test out and see if they are shop worthy. I'll set them up in the current garage to test their performance. I currently have a cheap and smallish box fan and a monoprice 5.1 system with a BIC woofer and Onkyo Amp for home garage use.

OEMTOOLS 24" Oscillating Fan
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4X6JOF/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Dayton B652-AIR Speakers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NOA58RS/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 

OH_Varmntr

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Ohio
Re: 40x60x14 Motorsports Shop Build

Congrats! Now is where having patience helps!


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850xpeps

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Re: 40x60x14 Motorsports Shop Build

Congrats on breaking ground. But my questions is why are you not breaking ground? It is against building steps where I’m from to not strip the topsoil off to have a good base to build your pad on?

another concern is those houses you posted from the neighbourhood look kinda crappy and poorly thought out being not more colour coordinated to the houses to blend. I’d suggest not saying “they didn’t do it so I don’t really need too”.


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AuroraSC

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More Poles!

Rough in for plumbing and electrical happening this week, then onto the concrete.

The builder uses 3,500psi material. His standard offering is 4" thickness, but can do 5" throughout for $800. It's not cheap, but I'm leaning towards doing it and not regretting not doing it later.

I order 36x 20a black duplex's which should arrive this coming week. Lowes got some of my business today in way of 10x 1-1/4" and 1" 10' PVC conduit sections and some various fittings.

It's finally starting to come together!! :rocker::thumbup:



 
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ram50boosted

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following thread. getting close to build in catoosa. wondering who you are having build your pole barn?
 

Jeeper89

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Rockford MI
View media item 76296
I went with Metal Sales taupe and burnished slate to match my house. It came out pretty close. Note: the light gray on the front is cement board that will get covered with stone next spring.
 
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AuroraSC

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View media item 76296
I went with Metal Sales taupe and burnished slate to match my house. It came out pretty close. Note: the light gray on the front is cement board that will get covered with stone next spring.

That matches quite well indeed! I went with Charcoal wainscotting and trim with Taupe walls and roof.


Top plate and girts are up today. I'll upload some pictures later. :thumbup:
 
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AuroraSC

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Construction is complete!

Overhead doors in route for install on Tuesday. Electrical should start up as soon as I can get a few friends to help out.









 
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