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40x60 with Apartment - Floor Plan Review

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abwehrly42

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I don't have a better design for you but I feel it's awkward going through the kitchen to go to the bedroom and also weird to go through the laundry room to get to the bathroom.
The placement of the laundry room and bathroom is driven by the fact that I often come home very dirty. I can leave dirty clothes in the laundry room and go straight to the shower, without passing through any living areas.
I think the apartment design is great... good use of space.
Do the stairs go up toward the outer wall or toward the center of the building?
If you ran them up toward the center of the building and put an exterior door at the bottom it would be easy to get longer items up them to the mezz.
I have drawn them going towards the outer wall. I like your idea, but I don't think I would have room for a landing at the top of the stairs and still be able to park a truck adjacent to the apartment space.

A couple of thoughts regarding plumbing.
1) venting that dryer location will be a PITA
2) the "wet wall" drainage appears to have a 45 straight run to the shower and toilet. Will this have underground access (I.e. A crawl space)
3) the vents for DWV look like they shouldn't be too big an issue. Think where that will extend up though.
4) make any wall with plumbing in it 2x6


My suggestion would be to visit with a plumbing contractor (or two) for there thoughts.
That is a great point about the dryer. I have moved the washer and dryer to the other side of the room. The wooden cabinet only represents the footprint of the area I will use for hanging coats, waders, and drying laundry.

The apartment space will be directly on the concrete slab.

Are you planning on doing ballroom style dancing in the BR????

What the hells w the ft sq of the BR?

Why so big?

THINK how you use your current BR and use that info.

I would put that desk you show in the BR into the LR, and WHY do you need so much kitchen footage?

It's almost as big as the LR.

We do almost all of our cooking prep veggie cutting, etc sitting at the table in the kitchen, serves as our main countertop area.

Overall, we spend WAY more time in our "great room" than ANYWHERE else.

Basic as it may be, (It's not a great great room, just all open to rest of house. TV, stereo, computer I can work at while TV on 7 ft past it.

For me that last thing is mandatory, I can work the computer while my Babe watches movies next to me.

My most often by far used computer is on an elevated portion of the "cofee table" in front of my couch.

We do have a second one on a desk, that she normally uses. Wireless printer located there.

And, for all my comments, I'm assuming suitability for not just you, but also if w/ a partner, as in my case. Marc
The bedroom size is impacted by the ability to access the bathroom. I can shrink the bedroom but there is no convenient place for a bathroom door. Do you have any ideas there?
The kitchen size was dictated by the size of the kitchen table and necessary room to walk around it comfortably. Do you have any specific suggestions on how to reduce the size of the kitchen?
Where are you using Icovia from? I've been using it for shop/garage design layout and I have really liked it.
I found it through a google search, on Conestoga Buildings website. It has been very helpful.
I'm a designer, and I can't evaluate your plan at all without knowing all the specifics about the particular lot it is intended to be constructed on and all the zoning and building regulations for it.

Do you have a lot?

You can't design a building without that information.

It's like designing a suit of clothes without knowing who will wear it.

Bill
Below is a rough site plan. The apartment will be on the south end of the building to overlook the pond site. There are no zoning codes, and building codes are IBC.

White is the proposed building, orange is the rough location of the septic field, and the blue oval is where I will eventually dig a pond.

http://www.putnamcountytn.gov/?p=departments&s=building

Land%20Plan_zps5xzhk6ot.jpg


You can put two HVAC systems in to achieve the separation. I'm building a 30'x56' with about half of it people area. I put conventional forced air heat pump in the people area and a mini split in the shop area. I also insulated the wall between the two areas.
The apartment will be heated and cooled. The shop will only have heat. I am investigating the cost of radiant heat in the slab.
 
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NUTTSGT

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I'm not sure of your wall height but did you ever consider instead of a mezzanine,put the living area up and storage/work area below ?
 
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abwehrly42

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Nov 28, 2014
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Tennessee
I'm not sure of your wall height but did you ever consider instead of a mezzanine,put the living area up and storage/work area below ?
I was planning to use 16ft side walls so I can have 8ft ceilings in the apartment and still be able to stand up in the storage loft. I want the apartment at ground level so I don't have to climb stairs every day.
 

mike93lx

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Richmond, VA
I forget who makes them, but I saw some multi-split systems... one outdoor condenser unit that hooks up to 5 or 6 evaporators. The evaporators can be wall units, ceiling units that look like vents, ducted air handlers, etc.

Thia is standard functionality for mini split systems. Mitsubishi is just one manufacturer.
 
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abwehrly42

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Nov 28, 2014
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Tennessee
Here is the latest iteration of the floor plan:

Floor%20Plan%205_zpsxqvxw4oa.jpg

building1_zpsxetdf2xa.jpg

building2_zpsvz7p2uct.jpg


I received a quote from Morton Buildings:
We offer a standard 42’x16’x60’ building with a 4/12 roof pitch. 2ft. eve overhangs on all four sides and vented ridge.

4” concrete slab for the 42’x60’ and under the gable porch. No site work or base stone included. Radian heat will add approx.. $15K based upon the last one we did and how you want to set it up.

Estimated cost for the 42’x16’x40’ insulated shop with doors as described and concrete floor will run around $35-$40.00 per sq. ft. =$63,000.00 range.

Estimated cost for the 20’x8’x42’ living space with open porch, fire rating, mezzanine and HVAC will run about $100- $120.00 per sq. ft. = $92,400.00.

Estimated cost for the 24’x1’x60’ lean-to without concrete is $16,000.00 range.

So overall estimated cost range is $171,500.00.

Does not include site prep. base stone, power or water to the building or anything outside of the footprint of the building.
The quote was higher than I had hoped, especially since I still have to build a pad and get utilites to the site.
 

jayz66ragtop

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Sep 11, 2009
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SoCal
A little late to the party here but honestly, I would have a "dirty" bath and a "clean" one.


Have the door between shop and living area enter the laundry/mud room with the "dirty" bathroom attached to that. So when you are coming in from the shop to the left is a door into the living space, to the right is the washer and dryer, a wash basin that is the bathroom's sink as well, a door, the toilet on the left or right, and finally the shower against the wall. That way the shower doesn't impede into the bedroom.

I would remove the closet, put the bed back against that wall, remove the door to the bedroom into the kitchen area, move the door from the "great room" into the bedroom over to the left as far as possible, make that enter the bathroom with another door into the bedroom, then put the closet to the right of the bathroom. That way your "clean" bathroom can be used from the living area without going through the bedroom and your dirty area is more isolated from the rest of the house.
 

garrett1812

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May 23, 2013
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Indiana
If you move the W/D a bit you could make an entrance to the bathroom from the closet. Very nice to be able to take clothes directly to/from the W/D and closet.
 
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scooternut

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Jul 31, 2013
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Pittsburgh, PA
Here is the latest iteration of the floor plan:

I received a quote from Morton Buildings:

The quote was higher than I had hoped, especially since I still have to build a pad and get utilites to the site.

I've had a similar design in mind, more of a pipe dream. That price seems way higher than I would ever expect? Is this a finished price?
 

rpcraft

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Waco
When's the ground breaking, LOL. I'm interested in hearing how much it ends up costing you. This is kind of my dream setup, maybe with a little more garage.
 
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abwehrly42

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Tennessee
I got another estimate at $65 per square foot, so my original plan was going to cost more than I can afford. I have decided to scale down the building size and simplify the apartment. It should also be easier to convert into garage space when I eventually build a house.

This building is 30x50x10 with 10ft lean-tos on each side. There is a floor to ceiling wall between the apartment and garage to meet fire code. The left and middle walls have framed openings for 10x10 rollup doors, not to be installed when built. When I move out of this apartment I can cut them in and use it as a workshop space. The garage side has one 18' or 20' wide rollup door. The website I used to draw the building exterior didn't have any rollup doors that wide so I spaced two 8'x8' doors to represent a 20' door.

I would still like to have radiant heat in the slab. The apartment can be cooled by a mini-split. I won't need a ceiling in the apartment except for the one over the bathroom.

I think the framed openings in both gable ends messes up the X-bracing but I would like to be able to pull a truck and trailer straight through the shop.

Any thoughts on this new plan? I have to figure out closet space but I hate to commit square footage to anything permanent.

shop_zpsebqibnuo.jpg

shop1_zpsngqblwor.jpg
 

garrett1812

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Indiana
With the plan to use short term as an apartment and then convert to workshop I think it's excellent floor plan.
 

Hangar Pilot

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North Carolina
I'm finishing up a 30x56. I have a 10' wide porch on one side. It has a full kitchen, and bath and completely finished with drywall. It also has a forced air HVAC in the living half and a mini split in the shop side. I contracted it myself and it has run just a little over $65 a sq ft.
 

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abwehrly42

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That is a very nice building Hangar Pilot! How did you handle the building codes for fire between the two spaces? Do you have a copy of your floor plan? Are there any changes you would make if you were to build another?
 

tomroblee

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Indiapolis, IN
I'm a geezer, and it's been 40 years since I spent any winter weather time in the Cookeville area. I just have a few observations:

Back in the 1950's and 1960's it was common practice to put the washing machine and dryer in an attached garage of a ranch home. It seemed to work well. (Remember that a dryer is going to blow a lot of air outside. The make up air has to come from somewhere. Your garage is likely to be more "drafty" than a modern finished living area.)

I didn't see the water heater or boiler for radiant heat in your drawings. Unless you are going with tankless water heaters, they are going to take up some floor space.

A "laundry" sink in the garage/shop would be nice.

The drawings didn't seem to show much, if any, storage for anything. As well as a clothes closet, it would be nice to have a place to store towels and bedding, vacuum cleaner, some sort of chest or dresser for clothes, etc.

I'm not good a making a bed, and an unmade bed in the middle of the living area isn't always the best when you have guests. Your apartment looks a lot like an efficiency apartment in a retirement home. Those floor plans generally find some way to shield the sleeping area from the living area. A folding Murphy bed would be another idea.

When I had my pole barn built, the cost per square foot of lean to "porch" wasn't that much less than the cost of a shell building. You might want to get estimates both ways.

You mention not having a ceiling in the living area (except for the bathroom). How are you planning on insulating area without the ceiling?
 
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