40x60x12 framing/sheathing

[Tracs]

I've started framing on my 40x60x12 shed. I am doing the framing. I'm no expert but have done enough to know the basics of how it will go together.

The building package came from a local lumber yard, they have been very helpful with all aspects of the project so far.

I don't have drawings or plans but have sketched it out on paper and know where I'm putting my doors and windows.

The details about the building are:
40'x60'x12'
2x6 - 24" OC walls
Horizontal Blocking at 4' & 8'
48" OC engineered trusses
Metal clad exterior
Metal roof
Metal clad interior/ceiling (I don't know if I want this)
R20 wall batts
R50 blow in ceiling

Location: Manitoba, Canada.

I've been reading more and more, and it seems like maybe I should cover the exterior walls in OSB/plywood and maybe the roof too.

The more I read on the subject has me thinking that the 1x4 strapping and metal won't provide enough shear strength.

I will discuss this with the lumber yard designer and see what he says. I don't expect him to change his tune though. I don't imagine this was a one off design they came up with and I would think they sell many building packages identical to this.

What are everyone's thoughts on the matter?

 

[TurnipTruck]

1x4 strapping on 48” OC trusses? Hilarious. You must mean wall strapping. I would use galvanized strap as diagonals under the steel, but I don’t have any experience with just 1x4s as wall strapping in your climate (wind especially).

Trusses at 24” OC and lined up with the studs? Good.
Plywood roof sheathing under the steel roof? Good if 1/2”+ and 24”oc trusses or with a ton of blocking on 48” oc trusses.

What kind of snow load and wind load do you need there?

 

[Ak Jim]

48” truss spacing in snow country doesn’t sound correct from what I’ve seen.

 

[Bert_]

Trusses 4' spacing is very common here and we do get snow. I would expect 2x4 strapping on the roof at least.

There are other ways to brace a building than plywood sheathing.

 

[Tracs]

1x4 strapping on 48” OC trusses? Hilarious. You must mean wall strapping. I would use galvanized strap as diagonals under the steel, but I don’t have any experience with just 1x4s as wall strapping in your climate (wind especially).

Trusses at 24” OC and lined up with the studs? Good.
Plywood roof sheathing under the steel roof? Good if 1/2”+ and 24”oc trusses or with a ton of blocking on 48” oc trusses.

What kind of snow load and wind load do you need there?

48” truss spacing in snow country doesn’t sound correct from what I’ve seen.

Trusses 4' spacing is very common here and we do get snow. I would expect 2x4 strapping on the roof at least.

There are other ways to brace a building than plywood sheathing.

The 1x4 is the wall strapping.

The roof uses 2x4s as purlins. And 48" OC is what most of not all pole sheds around here use.

 

[Skooterj]

48" OC engineered will be fine, as they are engineered to be spaced at 48". I'm guessing the purlins will be on edge?

But I would run back to the engineer if you decide to sheath the roof with OSB. I can almost guarantee they were not engineered for that.

 

[Tracs]

48" OC engineered will be fine, as they are engineered to be spaced at 48". I'm guessing the purlins will be on edge?

But I would run back to the engineer if you decide to sheath the roof with OSB. I can almost guarantee they were not engineered for that.

A few weeks ago I had a brief side conversation with the designer (not a engineer) and had asked if the trusses would support solar panels or shingles. He had indicated that it would be no problem. But I would definitely check with engineer/Truss company.

 

[dcg9381]

A few weeks ago I had a brief side conversation with the designer (not a engineer) and had asked if the trusses would support solar panels or shingles. He had indicated that it would be no problem. But I would definitely check with engineer/Truss company.

Here, architects don't do much structural design. They actually go out to the company providing the lumber package with house design (and location). It's the lumber package company that has the engineer and software to do things like design the trusses.

Panels don't add much load. They are ~45lbs each (give or take) but that load is spread out over such a wide area that it doesn't seem to affect much. Which is why you see people adding panels to roofs that were not designed for them.

As a solar installer, you may want to mark things up before hand, it's hard to hit roof rafters once the sheeting is installed. I would definitely do penetrations of the roof now for for "future solar" and add conduit for disconnects / inverter.

Here, strapping sometimes gets added to the corners, but I "believe" that these are primarily used in construction conditions where you've got things like foam board without structural strength and no sheeting.

I really like ZIP products (particularly ZIP-R) for sheeting. DIY, you'll need to watch tutorials on how to tape it, use the correct nails, and how they prevent over-driving the nails.

 

[Skooterj]

A few weeks ago I had a brief side conversation with the designer (not a engineer) and had asked if the trusses would support solar panels or shingles. He had indicated that it would be no problem. But I would definitely check with engineer/Truss company.

Yeah, I would defiantly check. Top Chord Dead Load for a steel roof only needs to be around 3 PSF. Shingled roof around 7 PSF. Most shingle designed trusses have at least a 10 PSF rating, since "everyone" adds a second layer of shingles.

If you already have the truss package, you should have been given the truss specs. If top chord dead load is 10 PSF, you should be fine sheathing it. But I would still check.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I STRONGLY RECOMMEN you watch a bunch of videos from RR Buildings. They have several series on building large "pole" buildings !

I think the key is get the building straight, plumb and square ! Not easy on a building your size !

Also, a man lift and a telehandler are a must !

Watch this series Building A Large Post Frame Workshop With 2 Guys

 

[Tracs]

Yeah, I would defiantly check. Top Chord Dead Load for a steel roof only needs to be around 3 PSF. Shingled roof around 7 PSF. Most shingle designed trusses have at least a 10 PSF rating, since "everyone" adds a second layer of shingles.

If you already have the truss package, you should have been given the truss specs. If top chord dead load is 10 PSF, you should be fine sheathing it. But I would still check.

Trusses are ready but haven't been delivered toe yet so I don't have the specs in hand.

The plan is a metal roof on top of 2x4 purlins.

It was just a brief conversation about if the trusses could support additional load ifi changed plans.

 

[Tracs]

The building designer had indicated I could use 45 degree diagonal supports in all 4 corners while framing as temporary support until the strapping and exterior metal was applied. I think I will put in 45° diagonal supports in all four corners but leave them there permanently.

Is there any strength concerns if the 2x6 studs were notched out to accommodate a flush 45 degree diagonal support?

 

[racecougar]

Permanent metal corner bracing under the outside sheathing is pretty typical. Have you considered going that route?

 

[Skooterj]

Notching your 2x6 studs for diagonal bracing is an old school way of accomplishing what you want. Let in Bracing. Most modern builders use steel strapping. Especially when when skinning in steel.

 

[Tracs]

Notching your 2x6 studs for diagonal bracing is an old school way of accomplishing what you want. Let in Bracing. Most modern builders use steel strapping. Especially when when skinning in steel.

I was wondering since the exterior gets strapped with 1x4, if a diagonal 16' 1x4 permanently attached to the outside of the walls would suffice?