Looking to build a 40x60x16 shop. Going to go 6in thick concrete with heated floor. 3 over head doors. 1 14x14 and 1 14x16 on one end and another 14x14 on the other. Up in rural northern Minnesota. I've called around for prices of buildings. I plan to do dirt work and concrete myself but have someone else erect the building. My struggle is trying to decide if I want to go with pole, stick, or steel building. It will be heated all winter long. I've seen pole building prices and menards price is great! 35k with doors and insulation. But what do you guys suggest and have built in the past and prices. Looking to get a quality building at my best price. Thank you
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40x60x16 Shop HELP!
- Thread starter Joepak
- Start date
Iroc-Z
Well-known member
Welcome to the board. I was actually up in Cook snowmobiling last month. I think metal will be the most expensive. Choosing between stick built and pole is hard. I feel that stick built on a foundation will last longer but either would out last me anyways. I would get quotes from builders in your area. I think that will help you make your decision.
readhead
Well-known member
Pole building will be cheapest, maybe. Depends on interior finish. Stick and steel will be similar at that size. 14’ stick walls will be expensive. Are there plans and permits involved?
Welcome to the board. I was actually up in Cook snowmobiling last month. I think metal will be the most expensive. Choosing between stick built and pole is hard. I feel that stick built on a foundation will last longer but either would out last me anyways. I would get quotes from builders in your area. I think that will help you make your decision.
Totally agree with you on the stick on foundation is better. Kinda wondering what people paid for there building. I know everything's diffrent but just trying to bounce ideas and get the best building I can for 100k
cj7jeep81
Well-known member
Similar size building, and I went with pole building. I used perma-columns, so no wood in the ground. Still very happy with it, and the choices I made.
Pole buildings are cheaper initially but I’m not sure about in the end. Takes time to frame inbetween each member. You can insulate a stick built better. I would never do a pole but that’s me. I’m in Manitoba and frost grabs everything.
I would do most likely icf. But if you are stuck on stick or pole I would choose stick. 2x6 walls with 2x4 strapping inside horizontally so I could install ridge insulation against the studs and fibreglass in the stud cavity. The bottom 8’ of wall inside would be 3/4” plywood for attaching anything I want and for protection. The a drop edge on top and tin the remainder of the way.
I would do most likely icf. But if you are stuck on stick or pole I would choose stick. 2x6 walls with 2x4 strapping inside horizontally so I could install ridge insulation against the studs and fibreglass in the stud cavity. The bottom 8’ of wall inside would be 3/4” plywood for attaching anything I want and for protection. The a drop edge on top and tin the remainder of the way.
cj7jeep81
Well-known member
Pole buildings are cheaper initially but I’m not sure about in the end. Takes time to frame inbetween each member. You can insulate a stick built better. I would never do a pole but that’s me. I’m in Manitoba and frost grabs everything.
I would do most likely icf. But if you are stuck on stick or pole I would choose stick. 2x6 walls with 2x4 strapping inside horizontally so I could install ridge insulation against the studs and fibreglass in the stud cavity. The bottom 8’ of wall inside would be 3/4” plywood for attaching anything I want and for protection. The a drop edge on top and tin the remainder of the way.
I've run the numbers both ways. For smaller buildings, the cost is about a wash. For large buildings (like this) pole is significantly cheaper than stick (at least in all my calculations). Pole buildings aren't that much harder to insulate, and another benefit is you can do it over time.
readhead
Well-known member
You should develop at the very least a simple set of plans and specs so everyone you talk to is bidding the same thing. You can’t call different places and say “ I want xyz” and expect to get numbers you can compare. Everyone will have their idea about what’s best for you.
finn
Well-known member
Be careful with the Menards prices posted in the flyers if you are building in the snow belt.
Those buildings don’t meet snow load requirements where I live, so the prices aren’t applicable.
The specs can be modified, but the price goes up.
For a heated, insulated building, stick built with a thickened slab will cost about the same as a pole building.
Why the 6” concrete? It’s overkill, and not really necessary. Lots of people go 6” because it’s Macho. I have radiant heated buildings with both 4” and 6” slabs. My lift is on a 4” slab and it’s fine.
Those buildings don’t meet snow load requirements where I live, so the prices aren’t applicable.
The specs can be modified, but the price goes up.
For a heated, insulated building, stick built with a thickened slab will cost about the same as a pole building.
Why the 6” concrete? It’s overkill, and not really necessary. Lots of people go 6” because it’s Macho. I have radiant heated buildings with both 4” and 6” slabs. My lift is on a 4” slab and it’s fine.
NWOhioChevyGuy
Well-known member
Check out Elgin (aka Kbuildings) kind of a hybrid steel / perlin design out of western Ohio.
I plan to hire out concrete and erect myself, when it happens.
I plan to hire out concrete and erect myself, when it happens.
Be careful with the Menards prices posted in the flyers if you are building in the snow belt.
Those buildings don’t meet snow load requirements where I live, so the prices aren’t applicable.
The specs can be modified, but the price goes up.
For a heated, insulated building, stick built with a thickened slab will cost about the same as a pole building.
Why the 6” concrete? It’s overkill, and not really necessary. Lots of people go 6” because it’s Macho. I have radiant heated buildings with both 4” and 6” slabs. My lift is on a 4” slab and it’s fine.
I wouldn’t go thinner than 5” it gets hard to fit rebar and piping in a slab at 4”. It’s doable but for a little more concrete it’s easier.
Check out Elgin (aka Kbuildings) kind of a hybrid steel / perlin design out of western Ohio.
I plan to hire out concrete and erect myself, when it happens.
My opinion is steel isn’t insulated as well as stick built can be. Or sealed as well.
matt_i
Well-known member
My 0.002. Since you are planning in-floor heat its basically "ON" all winter long. I'd go with the best insulated building which is stick framed.....you can of course do the same to a post frame but then you basically built a stick building inside of it as it was finished and you don't have full control of the dimension between the concrete floor and the bottom plate of the wall which is very important in post-frame in order to not have gaps.
Diesel Dan
Well-known member
My current place is stick built with a foundation. The 16' studs sit on 2 exposed rows of 8" block for a 17.5" ceiling height.
If you go pole style put the posts on 8' centers and use Johns Manville PEBS blanket. They are 8' wide x 40' long rolls of unfaced R19 fiberglass. Did that on a build in Ohio, ran 2x4 girts on the inside and sheeted with white interior grade ribbed steel.
If you go pole style put the posts on 8' centers and use Johns Manville PEBS blanket. They are 8' wide x 40' long rolls of unfaced R19 fiberglass. Did that on a build in Ohio, ran 2x4 girts on the inside and sheeted with white interior grade ribbed steel.
jameslinn83
Member
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2017
- Messages
- 5
Pole frame has less thermal bridges and thicker walls so they are better insulated.
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