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40x60x16

wmonroe

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Joined
Oct 5, 2006
Messages
229
Location
Near Pittsburgh, PA
Just signed the papers to have a 40x60x16 pole building built. It will have two overhead doors, a 12x14 and a 12x12, one on each end so I can drive straight through and one 36" man door. It will barn red walls with the roof, trim, and wainscot being charcoal. My wife is still deciding if she wants a cupalo (sp?), doesn't really matter to me but it would be a good place to put a fan.
Now I just have to wait till first of May for them to start building. I guess I should also come up with a name so I can start a thread tracking the build progress.
 
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wmonroe

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Oct 5, 2006
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Near Pittsburgh, PA
It will be storage for my tractor, Wrangler, tractor attachments, might keep my trailer inside, and I'm sure a bunch of other junk. Will probably build a 10 x 60 loft down one side to make better use of the 16' side walls. Figure if I make it 8' off the floor I can still park stuff under it but will still have about 7' of usable space on top. I don't know still a lot of time to plan those details.
 

Sureshot

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Jan 3, 2011
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Location
Bridge Creek, OK
I have a 40x60x16 and would do a loft like you are talking next time. Use the floor overhead for bright lighting and make a clean room and a saw/carpentry room as well as the office and bathroom on the bottom and storage on top. I have a loft in my addition now and put motrcycles/atvs/and sleds up there.

One think i would reconsider is going to a 14' tall door so you can always get a camper etc in. The bottom of my overhead crane is 12'5" and I cannot fot my A/C on the fifth wheel under it.
 

bleazenb

Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2011
Messages
19
Location
Central Indiana
Here are some pic of my 40x56x12 build I did in October of last year! Still a work in progress as you see. Starting floor drain and bathroom rough in now, hoping to pour floor as soon as concrete trucks can get back to it. didn't complete drive before wet fall and winter! Bad mistake on my part!
 

bleazenb

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Central Indiana
oops, had to resize my pics in order to attach. Here they are!
 

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wmonroe

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Oct 5, 2006
Messages
229
Location
Near Pittsburgh, PA
I have a 40x60x16 and would do a loft like you are talking next time. Use the floor overhead for bright lighting and make a clean room and a saw/carpentry room as well as the office and bathroom on the bottom and storage on top. I have a loft in my addition now and put motrcycles/atvs/and sleds up there.

One think i would reconsider is going to a 14' tall door so you can always get a camper etc in. The bottom of my overhead crane is 12'5" and I cannot fot my A/C on the fifth wheel under it.
I will a 14' door on one end just in case I buy another camper or something else. Do you have any pictures of your overhead crane? I've been kicking around the idea of putting a steel beam with at least a chain hoist on it.

Here are some pic of my 40x56x12 build I did in October of last year! Still a work in progress as you see. Starting floor drain and bathroom rough in now, hoping to pour floor as soon as concrete trucks can get back to it. didn't complete drive before wet fall and winter! Bad mistake on my part!
Your building looks great! Those are very similar colors to what I will be doing, barn red walls with charcoal roof, trim, and wainscot. I was thinking I would have to get a charcoal overhead door to match but your white door looks good. What colors did you go with, barn red?
 

hoopla14

Member
Joined
May 22, 2010
Messages
16
Do you mind sharing pricing? I'm in North Carolina and we are in the planning stages of our 5 acres....

chad
 

M-technik-3

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Feb 16, 2008
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1,785
Location
Western Mass
16 feet in height? Is that going to be enough pitch to support the roof with snow. Seems rather shallow for snow belt area.
 

Charles (in GA)

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Jan 11, 2006
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12,489
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50 mi south of Atlanta
16 feet in height? Is that going to be enough pitch to support the roof with snow. Seems rather shallow for snow belt area.

The 16 ft is the EAVE height of the building, not the peak. He doesn't give us the roof pitch so we have to guess. If the gable end is on the 40 ft side and he has a 4/12 roof, then the peak is about 22+ ft.

Charles
 
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wmonroe

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Oct 5, 2006
Messages
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Location
Near Pittsburgh, PA
Do you mind sharing pricing? I'm in North Carolina and we are in the planning stages of our 5 acres....

chad

The complete building minus concrete floor will be in the high 20's.


16 feet in height? Is that going to be enough pitch to support the roof with snow. Seems rather shallow for snow belt area.
Wall height will be 16' and the roof trusses will start there. Trusses were designed for the snow load of my area witha safety factor also included. Basically I went a little heavier on the trusses.


The 16 ft is the EAVE height of the building, not the peak. He doesn't give us the roof pitch so we have to guess. If the gable end is on the 40 ft side and he has a 4/12 roof, then the peak is about 22+ ft.

Charles
This is correct, a 4/12 pitch.
 

kmg108

New member
Joined
May 12, 2011
Messages
3
You are about 3 hours away from me. Where are you getting your materials, as this is the exact size building I'm pricing at the moment.
 
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wmonroe

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Oct 5, 2006
Messages
229
Location
Near Pittsburgh, PA
Ok it has been just over a year and I'm way behind on updating this thread. It has been quite a process to get to the point I'm at now, but I'll post pictures and tell the story from the beginning up to where I'm at now.
 
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wmonroe

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Oct 5, 2006
Messages
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Location
Near Pittsburgh, PA
April 2012, Excavation begins. I was out of town for work during this part so my wife took the pictures. My place doesn't have too many flat areas where i wanted to put the barn so this is where i finally decided on.

Excavating4-18-121_zpsda12a6a1.jpg


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wmonroe

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Near Pittsburgh, PA
This site is finished ready for the project to start. I knew the area wasn't near flat but i didn't realize how much slope there was till they finished leveling the area.

SiteampMaterials1_zps91cf30f4.jpg


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Quick picture of the LVL beams, 2x4's, etc.

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The posts. Instead of using 6x6's he uses three 2x8's glued/nailed together.

SiteampMaterials13_zps6d9dc98d.jpg
 
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wmonroe

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Oct 5, 2006
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Near Pittsburgh, PA
The contractor i used was great to deal with in the planning phase and showed up right when he said (actually two days after the scheduled start day bacause of rain).

The first day was a short day because of more rain but they were able to get the post holes drilled and some of the posts set.

Framing5-3-122_zps9b295f3b.jpg


The second day they set the rest of the posts except for one end so they could drive the stid steer in with the trusses. The purlins and LVL's were also completed so they are ready to set trusses.

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wmonroe

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Oct 5, 2006
Messages
229
Location
Near Pittsburgh, PA
All trusses set, the remaining posts set, the rest of the purlins installed.

Framing5-7-121_zps2cb2f95c.jpg


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Roof purlins about 2/3's complete, another day lost partially to rain. There were quite a few days wasted to rain, thats what i get for trying to build during spring.

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Just a quick picture as the sun is setting.

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wmonroe

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Oct 5, 2006
Messages
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Location
Near Pittsburgh, PA
All siding, soffit, fascia is complete, all that is left is to replace three panels above the door where they misdrilled the holes and install the two garage doors.

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Unfortunately this is also where things went downhill. The builder told me the garage doors were not in yet and that his garage door installer was going on vacation the next week. I waited and when that time was up didn't hear anything, tried calling but no answer and no return call.

This went on for well over a month and i decided to talk to an attorney to see what options i had. During this time my wife found the builders facebook page and saw that he was still putting up buildings for other people. The attorney sent him a letter giving him ten days to either refund the money for the doors or install the doors or i would have him arrested and sue him for the money. Since he never even dropped off the garage doors it is equivalent to theft/burgurlary in PA since he basically took my money. I didn't have any intention of actually sueing him since i figured the cost of the process would be enough that i would probalby lose money but it sounded good in the letter.

The ten days passed with no response to me or the lawyer so i figured he called my bluff and was not going to show. I arranged to order doors from a local garage door company and put a deposit on the doors for them to order. The day the other company was supposed to come out and measure i get a call from them saying that there is already someone there putting up garage doors. It turns out the orignal builder showed up about 20 days after he received the registered letter and installed the garage doors. Luckily i was able to get my deposit back from the local place. The builder did not replace the three pieces of metal or install the weather stripping around the doors but he did install the correct doors and seemed to do a good job on them.

After all of this was over i tried calling the builder to find out what had happened (remember we got along very well up until the point he didnt show up with the garage doors) as i thought maybe he had some personnal issues and there was good explanation. Unfortunately he has never gotten back to me so i don't know what the issue was. The quality of the building is very good but i can't recommend him as a builder to anyone after the way he handled this job.

Well that ended up being way too long. Hope everyone enjoys.
 

7ate9

Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2012
Messages
16
Location
Maine
Same dimensions as mine. I like it! You have a very beautiful piece of Pennsylvania by the way.
 

CNGsaves

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Sep 26, 2012
Messages
13,233
Location
KS and OK
Great looking barn . . . . LOVE the Red Color with accent gray. View from up on the hill is terrific . . . beautiful.

Curious what is approx cost of the build?? Glad to see you eventually got doors put in. Were those roll-up or conventional 2 ft sectionals??

Will barn have buried electrical, or will you have to have aerial?? Plans for heating / AC??

Question for pole barns like that, any need for cross-brace in corners (ie shear) like conventional stick build??

Thanks for sharing the build with GJ.
 
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wmonroe

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Oct 5, 2006
Messages
229
Location
Near Pittsburgh, PA
Thanks for the compliments. 40x60 is a popular size around here also, originally I was going to do a 50x80 but the cost is more than I wanted to spend. The 40 x60 is plenty big for me though so it's good.

The garage doors are conventional garage door style that match the doors on the house. I have a spreadsheet on my computer at work that tracks every penny I've spent on the building so far, and at this point without the concrete floor I think I am approaching 40k. That includes everything from excavation, to stone (over 150 tons so far), and down to small conduit fittings.

I am currently installing the underground electric service and planning on finishing it today to get inspected this week. It will be a separated 200 amp service, probably don't need 200 amp but figured do it once and I'll never have to upgrade it.

Haven't made a decision on heat yet, it won't be heated all the time but I would like to have something that if I know I'm going to be working in there I could turn it on and get it up to 50 - 60 degrees.

They did install diagonal braces that go from each post up to the lvl headers, I hadn't seen that in a pole building before. He told me they weren't required by code but that he liked to put them in because it made the building much more sturdy.

This is the only pic I could find of the doors, it's from inside though.
http://s53.beta.photobucket.com/use...n Build/image_zps29bcd7f2.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

In this one you can see the diagonal bracing towards the top of the wall.
http://s53.beta.photobucket.com/use...n Build/image_zps29bcd7f2.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

Couple shots of the electric trench
http://s53.beta.photobucket.com/use...n Build/image_zps29bcd7f2.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

http://s53.beta.photobucket.com/use...n Build/image_zps29bcd7f2.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

A quick shot of the back corner where the electric panel will go. Installing foam insulation and OSB first.
http://s53.beta.photobucket.com/use...n Build/image_zps29bcd7f2.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
 
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NUTTSGT

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Northern Central Ohio
Not sure why these pictures are coming up links instead, I'll fix them later when I get my laptop out.

It's because some ******* at PB decided they wanted to compete with facebook and create a beta version, that wasn't ready to be released.


Nice looking building with a great view of some rolling ground. Since you have such a large hill on one side and could get alot of rainwater run off, have you considered putting in a french drain ?
 

MagKarl

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Oct 15, 2012
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684
Location
Olympia, WA
I'm still planning mine, but 40x60x16 looks great to me. Beautiful part of the country you are in.
 

akdiesel

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Aug 8, 2008
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Wasilla, AK
wmonroe

Not sure why some people want to conduct buiseness like your builder did. The shop does look good though. I have the same size, just wish it was 16' tall instead of 12'6".
In your pic of the mud around the foundation, do you have plans for drainage?
Also is your cupola functional or decorative?
 
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wmonroe

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Oct 5, 2006
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229
Location
Near Pittsburgh, PA
I do get some runoff behind the building and a french drain is in the works. I'm also thinking about having gutters installed to get the water away. Originally I was not going to have gutters for fear that ice/snow would damage them (happened once on my previous garage) but having all that water coming down right beside the building bothers me.
 
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wmonroe

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Joined
Oct 5, 2006
Messages
229
Location
Near Pittsburgh, PA
wmonroe

Not sure why some people want to conduct buiseness like your builder did. The shop does look good though. I have the same size, just wish it was 16' tall instead of 12'6".
In your pic of the mud around the foundation, do you have plans for drainage?
Also is your cupola functional or decorative?

The cupola is not functional right now but was installed in a way that I can make it functional.

I decided on 16' because I'm thinking of putting a loft part way or all the way down one side of the 60' length.
 

bygasper

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Oct 2, 2012
Messages
118
Cupolas, if functional, often leak. Essentially it is a big hole in your roof with venting siding surrounding. Recipe for a leak.

Your building is awesome. I just put up a 51X72X16. I had a lot of good and bad experiences as well. It seems that is the case with most builds any more, which is a shame.
 
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wmonroe

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Oct 5, 2006
Messages
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Near Pittsburgh, PA
Cupolas, if functional, often leak. Essentially it is a big hole in your roof with venting siding surrounding. Recipe for a leak.

Your building is awesome. I just put up a 51X72X16. I had a lot of good and bad experiences as well. It seems that is the case with most builds any more, which is a shame.

Do you have a link to your build? It is a shame that it is so hard to find reliable people.
 

NUTTSGT

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I do get some runoff behind the building and a french drain is in the works. I'm also thinking about having gutters installed to get the water away. Originally I was not going to have gutters for fear that ice/snow would damage them (happened once on my previous garage) but having all that water coming down right beside the building bothers me.

Do you have a 3 pt backhoe for that Deere, that would sure make it easy ?
 
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wmonroe

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Messages
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Near Pittsburgh, PA
No Deere on the property!! ( just joking) but I do have a hoe attachment for the Bota. Just used it to trench the 250' for the electrical entrance.
 
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