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48x60 layout

OH_Varmntr

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Finally getting some final plans put together for a building and have a layout in mind.

Trying to nail down the location of the lift so I can pour 6" thick concrete there. I know, I know, 4" is all that's required.

The location of the building limits vehicle entrances only to the side with the 12x12 OH door. The side with the 10x10 OH door is 10' off my septic system leech bed so that door is more of a lawn mower/air movement/watch the kids play in the yard/light duty door. The other end and side of the building are not easily accessible.

I will be storing my 14' gooseneck dump trailer, diesel truck and John Deere compact tractor with loader in the building so I need to keep those items in mind. The scale of these items to the building is correct as far as the layout goes.

This is what I've come up with so far and was curious of any feedback. I played with offsetting the lift to one side or one corner but would rather have it off the main "path" through the building so I can maintain as much open floorspace as possible. That's the reason for placing the lift as a straight to the 12x12 OH door as possible. Chances are, my diesel truck or tractor will sit between the lift posts 90% of the time. I don't see myself using the lift a lot, but the remaining open space will facilitate storage of the other vehicle if I need to have something on the lift for an extended period of time.

In the open floor-space I'll have a woodworking bench (mostly hand tool woodworking, with power tools on a dust system or outside) and a metal fabrication space (grinding will likely be done outside when possible). May also build a mezzanine for my wood working that's next to office mezzanine staircase so the single staircase can serve both mezzanines.
 

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LXCam

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Have you considered turning it 90 degrees and installing it next to the stairs. What's the longest ride you'll toss on it and could it make the turning radius without too much hassle? The reason I'm suggesting this is stairs always eat up a weird space. So installing a work bench or tool boxes along that wall would but it to good use and create more floor space from the big door to the back wall for other things you might want to take in and out of the shop more often.

Anyhow, congrats on the new shop, that's a nice size. Also what's your plans for the second level?
 
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OH_Varmntr

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Sorry I wasn't specific. The stairs are there to access the mezzanine above the office space. There's no second floor.

I played with the lift in the position like you suggested and the turning radius would be too tight. My trucks are both 18.5' long but of course can't say for any future vehicles. Needless to say they have a poor turning radius.
 

LXCam

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Can you use the 10ft door for egress to the lift. I know you said you'll rarely use it but it sounds like you've given in considerable thought soooo.
 
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OH_Varmntr

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I can't, my septic system is 10' off the side of the building right there so I'd be driving over the leech bed finger if I did. The building will be sandwiched between my septic system and my property line. I had to get a variance from my township in order to build so close to my property line. I'll be 10' off the septic system, and about 16' off my property line.

Even though I'm on 4 acres, I don't have a lot of options for building placement, and I've already attempted to purchased ground from my neighbor and that's not happening.
 

LXCam

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That *****. Well if anything I'd push the lift close to the wall and utilize all the space to the right for parking. That way you're back to having a bench and or tool boxes directly adjacent to the lift. Personally other than Fab or machine work my lift is in constant use. So for me having everything right there makes the stuff I do much more efficient.
 
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OH_Varmntr

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Just browsing around about lift placement suggests anywhere from 8-12' from the lift posts to a front wall, depending on placement of benches, toolboxes, etc...like you said.

I'll be pouring the slab thicker around the entire lift bay, so I'll have a little flexibility in lift placement once the slab is in. I just want to narrow down the the bay location.
 

johnnyradiant

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Year's ago I worked as a Volvo mech in a long narrow shop and we needed/wanted another lift. We put it right by the door. It was about the only spot left. We would just drive a car in or out under that first car while it was up. We kept those jobs as quick or light duty jobs so we weren't dealing with killing access to the shop with ****** jacks or whatever. In your case that would leave a lot of open space inside your shop but would likely wouldn't work for moving stuff in and out while occupying the hoist as you are dealing with trucks.

If you could live with the lift at the door you could maybe 'open' up your space by moving your office/bathroom space to the top right corner as opposed to the bottom right corner?
 
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OH_Varmntr

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I considered that as well but the lifts I've looked at aren't much more than 110" between the columns which would defeat the purpose for having a 12' wide door.

Here's another layout I've considered. I've read about people installing lifts so you back into them. I grew up working in my grandpas auto shop and the majority of the work was done on the front of the vehicle so it does make sense. I would have my tools on the wall to the right of the 12x12 OH door so they would be centrally located at the front of the shop instead of at the rear.

The issue with this layout is the office space as actually more of a workout/yoga room for my wife to possibly hold small yoga classes in (no more than 4 people) and she's concerned about walking through the shop to access the space. The upside to this is the location of the room would be closest to where the power, water, septic utilities would enter the building.
 

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LXCam

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What I meant by pushing it closer to the wall was moving it left into the corner.

Also about the last activity I would ever want happening is having my wife and her friends actually walking thru the shop even if it was only a couple dozen feet let alone all the way across it. Between any potential hazards and smells it's just not worth the grief. I'd keep the work out room per your original design and install another exterior door for them to use. And just in case you haven't thought of this I'd install a exterior door between the shop and room that's fully sealed, threshold included to keep both the smells and dirt out of the shop....

Them yoga women can be a smelly bunch ;) :lol:
 
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OH_Varmntr

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Gotcha, here's what it would look like. I kinda like it. If it went there I would definitely install it so the vehicle is backed in. I wouldn't want to fight an engine hoist between a vehicle and back wall. I've also placed the lift 4' from the sidewall. I don't know how many times I've wrestled control arms or front axles from the sides with 5' breaker bars. Or if I need to pull axles, etc...
 

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OH_Varmntr

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The builder stopped out yesterday and checked out the site. Have around a foot of drop across the site so excavation shouldn't be too bad.

Hopefully within the next few weeks we will get plans finalized and get to breaking some ground.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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OH_Varmntr

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At this time, I don't have any other scheme to store my trailer. It has already been sitting outside for nearly 2 years since my tractor takes my open carport space.

This is a shop, but I'm also building it as large as possible in order to have the space to store my truck, trailer and tractor in it.

A lean-to off the rear of the shop could be done, but it's definitely not a primary need when it comes to the building. Once the shop is built I will see how it all flows and if needed I'll add it later.
 
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larry_g

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Gotcha, here's what it would look like. I kinda like it. If it went there I would definitely install it so the vehicle is backed in. I wouldn't want to fight an engine hoist between a vehicle and back wall. I've also placed the lift 4' from the sidewall. I don't know how many times I've wrestled control arms or front axles from the sides with 5' breaker bars. Or if I need to pull axles, etc...

The only thing I would say is consider rotating the workout room 90*. My mistake was to have the wall to close to the door opening preventing anything along that wall. In my opinion you should have at least 4' from the door opening to the nearest side wall.

lg
no neat sig line
 
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OH_Varmntr

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The only thing I would say is consider rotating the workout room 90*. My mistake was to have the wall to close to the door opening preventing anything along that wall. In my opinion you should have at least 4' from the door opening to the nearest side wall.



lg

no neat sig line



It's funny you said that because that's exactly what the updated layout has. That way I was able to make the room 18x24 instead of 16x22 that way the wall is 2 feet farther from the oh door.

This also allowed me to only have one entry door that opened into the shop, but had a door to the immediate right for the workout room so anyone going to the workout room didn't have to go through the shop at all.
 
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OH_Varmntr

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Here's the latest layout.

I also spoke with the power company today and will be meeting them at my place Monday morning. My house sits about 300' off the road and is fed from a pole mounted transformer that sits about 100' off my house in my front yard. That pole is one of 2 poles in my front yard that branch off the main distribution lines going down my road.

Hopefully, if it's no too expensive, I'll have a ground transformer installed by my shop that will feed both my shop and my house via underground service. This way I'll gain a nice open front yard with no poles, overhead lines or transformer to get hit by footballs, baseballs, etc... when the kids are out playing.
 

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astroracer

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You really need to get the lift lined up with a door. Add another door to make lift access easier. Pulling in and turning and fidgeting around to get a vehicle on the lift is going to get real old, real quick. Turn it 90 degrees and put another door right in front of it. Keep that door 6' off the inside wall for working and bench room around the lift.
And, just so you are aware, you do not need to pour any extra concrete in the hoist area. Bend Paks site has a requirement for concrete thickness and 4" of 3000PSI concrete is plenty for 9 to 14K lifts.
Mark
 

tarmy

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IMG_0235.jpg

IMG_0364.jpg

Here some ideas to think about...I use that 1 ton to move alot of things...

Consider a shop vac and air hose reel...central location...

My set up is 32x56 clear...love it...bigger is better...

Make those stairs to the loft extra wide and strong...might want to move stuff up there bigger than a normal width would allow...

Good luck...
 
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OH_Varmntr

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You really need to get the lift lined up with a door. Add another door to make lift access easier. Pulling in and turning and fidgeting around to get a vehicle on the lift is going to get real old, real quick. Turn it 90 degrees and put another door right in front of it. Keep that door 6' off the inside wall for working and bench room around the lift.
And, just so you are aware, you do not need to pour any extra concrete in the hoist area. Bend Paks site has a requirement for concrete thickness and 4" of 3000PSI concrete is plenty for 9 to 14K lifts.
Mark

I appreciate your input, but I can only access the building with a vehicle from the front side (the side with the 12' OH door). The other sides are limited by septic system components and a property line so any other doors are "light duty" access only.

Also, as my first post pointed out, I'm aware that 4" concrete is the minimum requirements of lifts. Lucky for me there's no law saying I can't pour it thicker. I planned on it from the beginning and the builder recommended it as well. For the little extra money it will cost to do so, it will be well worth it in my eyes.

IMG_0235.jpg

IMG_0364.jpg

Here some ideas to think about...I use that 1 ton to move alot of things...

Consider a shop vac and air hose reel...central location...

My set up is 32x56 clear...love it...bigger is better...

Make those stairs to the loft extra wide and strong...might want to move stuff up there bigger than a normal width would allow...

Good luck...

Thanks, I like your setup! I salvaged a Reelcraft 3/4" hose reel earlier this year and a few electric hoists. I love your shop vac hose reel I'm going to use that idea. The FEL on my tractor is rated just shy of 2400lbs so I've got that too if needed.
 

tarmy

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I appreciate your input, but I can only access the building with a vehicle from the front side (the side with the 12' OH door). The other sides are limited by septic system components and a property line so any other doors are "light duty" access only.

Also, as my first post pointed out, I'm aware that 4" concrete is the minimum requirements of lifts. Lucky for me there's no law saying I can't pour it thicker. I planned on it from the beginning and the builder recommended it as well. For the little extra money it will cost to do so, it will be well worth it in my eyes.



Thanks, I like your setup! I salvaged a Reelcraft 3/4" hose reel earlier this year and a few electric hoists. I love your shop vac hose reel I'm going to use that idea. The FEL on my tractor is rated just shy of 2400lbs so I've got that too if needed.

IMG_0300.jpg

IMG_0061.jpg

If you are going to be all nice and thank me for ideas...here are a couple more.

Get a big flat study surface to built and assemble stuff on...use this every week...

And built a big damn bench...with a view...
 
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OH_Varmntr

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Your shop looks really nice! I doubt mine will ever stay that clean. I wish I had that view but around here it's all flat farm land and I'm only including windows in the OH doors to keep security in mind.

I built a 4x6 bench for an outfeed/assembly table for my woodworking hobby and even that isn't big enough now. I'll be building a laminate top bench once I have the shop. I'll be sourcing at least a 1/2" plate for a welding table top. Everything will be on heavy duty casters for mobility.
 

astroracer

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I like the layout you pictured in post #9. Push the workout room all the way to the back. Put a man door on the long wall for access without having to go through the shop. Put a 12' and a 16' door on the short, accessible side and line the hoist up with one of them. Keep the hoist at least 4' off the inside wall. 6' is better. :)
Mark
 

extropic

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Kalama, WA
I like astroracers thinking.

Delete the man door on the front.
Put a man door around the corner if you must.
More vehicle access doors in the front.
Three 10' - 12' wide doors would be my preference.
Hoist in front and squared away (not angled).
Yoga room in left rear corner w/ its own access door and windows.
Bath under stairs. Rough plumb now for future growth (shower, kitchenette).
Plumb for a utility sink in shop too.
Mezzanine across the whole back wall.
Consider a storage lift (SL) too. Store the least used vehicles up on the SL, freeing up floor space for other vehicle(s). There's NEVER enough floor space.

Looks like a great project. Enjoy.
 

astroracer

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Putting 3 10' doors across the front leaves less the 4' between the doors and the inside walls. To narrow, especially with a hoist. A 12' for with the hoist and a 16' for trailer and tractor egress would leave over 6' between doors and walls. Much better in my book and the bigger door will make trailer backing a lot easier. :)
With the layout in post #9 I would put the 12' door 6' off the left wall and the 16' door 4' off the right wall. Lots of room in between and plenty of space for working and storage on either sides of the doors.
Mark
 
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OH_Varmntr

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The problem with the workout room being in the rear of the building is that the parking will only be along the front. The only thing worse than walking through my shop to get to it would be walking along the outside of the shop to access it in the winter, rain, etc...

Like I've said before, yes this is a shop, but that's not all it is and it surely won't only be utilized only by myself.

The reasoning behind not having all kinds of doors is not only because of my building placement restrictions, but also because you either need to A) keep the bay in front of all doors clear at all times in order to keep it useable which essentially makes that floorspace useless when not being used for its intended purpose, or B) only put stuff in it that can be easily moved.

Option A isn't a big deal if the bay were specifically intended for a lift that would be regularly utilized. In my case, a lift won't be regularly utilized, and honestly I may go a year or two before I install one.

Option B is an issue because everyone values floor space, and anything that is temporarily placed in that bay will need a place to go when the bay will be utilized for its intended purpose.

The 52x64 shop I spent a lot of time in growing up had two 10' doors each having their own lift. One was a two post lift and the other an in-ground air over hydraulic drive-on lift. The drive-on lift was the least used lift and it became a storage bay and all that stuff had to be moved if the lift was needed. Of course the rest of the shop was full of stuff so that's essentially why the bay became storage when not in use.
 
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